73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: Mike81K10 on March 21, 2020, 07:54:19 PM
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I am a recent member that has been reading posts for awhile prior to registration. I have an 81 K10 that I bought in Colorado back in 86. My fuel system got contaminated with rust that accumulated in my fuel tanks and I found my filler necks were not in good condition as well. I removed my bed, drained the duel 16 gallon fuel tanks, and removed them. Unexpectedly, I started stripping the frame and kept removing parts. The restoration began. The fuel system and brake system has been overhauled with mostly new parts to include new stainless fuel and brake lines. In the past, I paid for others to do some work on my truck and have noticed problems from doing so. So far all the work has been done by myself and I bought and learned how to weld to weld in patch panels that I have fabricated. The project started about a year ago. I get together some photos and post them shortly.
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Although my truck looks OK, it has a few issues that made me decide to restore/build. Water leaked into the cab from rust out in the cowl area in addition to the fuel system being rusted as you will see from the photos. The cowl has been repaired by cutting out the rust area(s) and welding in patch panels. My frame was not in bad shape, however, I cleaned, sanded, metal prepped, and costed the frame with KBS Rust Seal and Chassis Topcoat.
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Try these other pic again!
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These other two pics did not go through last try!
Attached a pic of my new stainless steel fuel lines (these are the crossover) also have the Stainless steel brake lines. Also my new fuel sending units.
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A picture of my cowl - rusted
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Getting started required the removal of my heavy fiberglass topper. Being by myself required me to come up with a solution. I made a stand/cart that I could slide my topper onto. It worked out really well and the topper is being stored on it till I finish the build. To remove the bed I made a lift tool and another dolly for the bed of by truck, which it is sitting on till I am ready to restore and reinstall.
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Wow that's a lot of heavy rust! What part of the country did she live in most of her life?
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Thanks for asking JohnnyP
There was heavy rust in the fuel tanks and the cowl area had rust out spots along the seam. However, the chassis (frame) only had a little surface rust and most of the truck was not very bad. Some time ago I had to replace the cab corners. I bought the truck in 86 in Colorado. It has also lived in VA, TX, and now AL. I am the second owner and it was in good shape and low miles when I bought it, of course it was only 5 years old. It was not an A/C truck, will be when I am done with a Vintage Air Gen IV system.
I actually bought the truck after I had a car stolen, which was my first car. It was never found and I bought the truck for pulling a boat and mountain driving. The truck ws purchased just prior to my daughter being born. I took my wife and daughter to Saint Mary's Glacier in Colorado in my truck, hauled firewood from the mountain, and went hunting. St Mary's Glacier has a rough 4x4 trail to get to it and many vehicles did not make it. Can propably be found on the internet. My daughter was in her car seat and was laughing up a storm as a baby, while my wife ws crying (scared). Don't think it was dangerous, just a rough ride. So I have kept the truck and decided to rebuild it and one day perhaps my grandson (just turned 2 years old) will get it.
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The rust in my firewall was cut out and I fabricated new patch panels. The cowl area also needed a couple of small patch panels as well. After welding them in and grinding down the welds, I metal prepped and rust proofed the area. I spray them with 2K Epoxy Primer, then base coated and cleared it. I removed my Wire harness, brake and fuel lines and then my entire chassis was cleaned, stripped of rust (just surface rust), metal prepped, coated with KBS Rust Seal, and then KBS Chassis Topcoat was applied. It turned out well. I also replaced my body bushings and I did a post under Body, Glass, and Paint with the info and pictures on it. It was a lot of work.
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As I said, my frame turned out OK and I have rebuilt my brake system and am working on the fuel system as well. I installed new stainless steel brake and fuel lines. I am still working on the Cab and have removed the windshield and the rear window. The windshield has no rust around it. However, the rear window does have rust and I have cut out and will weld in new metal around the rear window.
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Seems a cab picture did not come through. Will try to post it again! I am new and in a learning stage. Had it get it in JPEG format to show up and just learned that a picture can be added to a previous post by clicking on modify.
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Nice work on the "save"! 8)
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Been putting in a lot of work, still a long ways to go. I have a nut plate missing from my transmission cover and I fabricated and welded in a new one. My bushings were shot and I had to replace them all. As most knows it is a big hassel due to the nut spinning. The metal of the floor support gives and allows the nut to spin around. I welded in 1/8" steel on each side of the nut to prevent it from spinning. I decided to take measurements to locate where the nut would be located. Then I marked out a hole 3" x 1 3/4", measuring the floor pan supports show a 2" width on the inside so the 1 3/4" is very important to keep the holes hidden from under the cab. Used a dremel tool to get a prcise cut out and I fabricated plates to screw over the cutout in case of a future access need. My pictures will show what I am talking about and I did a post earlier on Body, Glass and Paint area.
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You're doing a great job! Looking forward to more pic's.
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You're doing a great job! Looking forward to more pic's.
Dan says it all!
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Did a front and rear brake job, There was a dirt dobber nest in the PS rear brake. Had to get rid of the rust and painted the brake parts in brake caliper paint Black n Red. Installed new brake cylinders, brake calipers, brake hoses, Proportioning Valve, and stainless steel brake lines from inline tubing. Have a new brake booster and master cylinder (not yet installed).
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Did a front and rear brake job, There was a dirt dobber nest in the PS rear brake. Had to get rid of the rust and painted the brake parts in brake caliper paint Black n Red. Installed new brake cylinders, brake calipers, brake hoses, Proportioning Valve, and stainless steel brake lines from inline tubing. Have a new brake booster and master cylinder (not yet installed).
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Installed new tie rod ends and a new (complete) drag link. Also installed a new Moog steering damper. The tie rod ends I purchased were made by Rare Earth. I had ordered moog and those that came in were defective (probably just coincidence), that is when I ordered Rare Earth parts. The tie rod end on the drivers side needed quite abit of encouragement to get out and I had to buy a puller (press) to get it out.
I counted the threads of the old ends and used the pictures to remind myself of the number of threads. I also took about 3 different measurements of the tie rod and ends. Measurements were also taken of the new Moog drag link (no defects- good part). I also had the old one (original with the truck) intact to compare. The new parts went in fairly easy and I torque the nuts down to the required ft lbs, it was about 45 or 50, can't recall off hand.
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Odd, I just did a complete Moog front end, and had no issues.
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Stripped and refinished the radiator support for my truck to include the headlight mounts. Have also been working on my rear window area that had rust through in various spots around the channel. Strange how my front windshield channel was fine with no rust throughs. Will get pictures of that later.
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Worked on my rear window that had been rusted out in places, appear to have came from water sitting in the seal area. I cut out the whole window channel and removed the sheet metal rear window channel from a junk yard donor truck. The metal from the donor truck was not rusted much. Was going to do just the needed spots, then I thought the metal was so clean - I would do the whole window. I used zinc weld thru primer on the inside. While I had the are cut out I cleaned, prepped, and used KBS rust seal - not much rust inside. I used internal frame coating in areas that are hard to reach. The new metal fits tight into the area that was cut out and so far I spot welded it on the inside area where it goes on the lip. Ran out of daylight and I still have to weld around the outside edge. Will give an update when more progress is made. Starting this project have given me skills I previously did not know I had. Bought a welder and learned how to weld on my truck. The first was when I fabricated and welded in the Firewall and cowl patch panels.
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Looks good. A lot of extra work but will be worth it in the end.
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Looks good. A lot of extra work but will be worth it in the end.
Thanks, Your right - it is alot of extra work and it will take awhile for me to complete the welding and grind it smooth. Did not feel I had much of a choice or perhaps I am too picky. After the rear window is done, I can prep and paint the cab and start getting the truck put back together.
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A mini-belt sander is a great tool for fast grinding welds in those tight spots
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VileZambonie, You have a nice truck and I liked the videos.
Thanks for the advice and thats a great idea and I will look into it, next time I get to Home Depot, Lows, or Harbor Freight. One of the few tools I don't have and have never used one. About three and a half hours ago I started spot welding around the outside edge of the rear window sheet metal (so big - I don't if I should call it a patch panel). I then started to stitch it together and got tired, taking a break with a cold lemonade in the A/C. It is coming together, seems like an eternity though. I really don't have that much patience, so it is a task.
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It does look like you are doing a heck of a re-do..im looking at an 83 4.1L 6cyl swap any info would be appreciated
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Hey chazlee! You should look at VileZambonie's truck!
You have to ask yourself what you going to use your truck for? Street rod or daily driver! For a daily driver you can drop in a 350 crate engine or go to a salvage yard and buy an engine and wire harness for a late model fuel injected engine (then you have to redo the fuel system). I am trying to keep my truck some what close to original. I have found a set of OEM Rally Wheels with Caps and beauty rings I am buying.
My truck started as just trying to fix heavy rusted duel saddle 16 gallon fuel tanks and rusted fuel lines and some rust spots in the cowl and firewall. Now, I tore my whole truck apart and have been replacing and repairing everything. So watch out, you might end up doing a great deal more when you get started. Sometimes you come across problems you never knew you had. It would have been easier on me if I have thought out everything before I started. I have had to redo some things because I fixed a few things and then decided to tear apart what I fixed to do a full restoration job.
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I completed welding in my rear window frame. Still need to grind down the weld and as VileZambonie said, I will look into a mini belt sander. Was looking online at Home Depot at a Mikita and it looks good. Don't know if I will get it since it is about $250. Might just use my angle grinder since I have plenty of grinding disk. These may be the last pictures until I get more progress on the Cab completed.
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Looking good!
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Thanks Shifty!
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The mini belt sander is great for grinding spot welds. On the outside, mask around the area to avoid collateral damage. Keep up the good work. It will pay off!
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looks nice !
A ton of work doing something like that, especially when it is not something you do everyday.
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looks nice !
A ton of work doing something like that, especially when it is not something you do everyday.
Thanks, means a lot from someone with your talent. Your doing a great job on your truck.
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Been looking for wheels while I have been doing my rebuild and got a set. The person I bought them from media blasted them and painted them for me. Cost was $450.00
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Perfect. 8)
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Lovin' the rally's! 8)
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Dam, it is nice when you finally land something you have been looking for!
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Thanks all! Seemed to be difficult to find the rally wheels for a 4x4. There were many more available for the five lugs.
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Those are stunning! Congrats!!
How wide are those? Couldn't tell from the pics.
Are the 4X4 labels available?
I refinished mine a few years ago, and did a light search, but didn't find any.
Also, are there labels for 5 lug that you know of?
Thanks!
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They are 8" wide and I got them through my brother, from a guy he met at a swap meet in Dallas, TX area. I am in AL. They came with the center caps and rings. The person I got them from had them media blasted and painted for me. Will put them on after I complete my restoration. I have seen the after market 4x4 labels center caps available online from many places (have seen them on eBay), these are supposed to be originals. I have not seen 4x4 labels for a 5 lug wheel. To my knowledge GM did not make the 5 lug 4x4.
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Nice, I found two 8" and two 6" for the C10 I'm building.
5 lug. Not 4x4.
The center caps for these are good, but the decals are not.
They have the bow tie logo.
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Look up rally "4pcs CHEVY Emblem Badge RALLY WHEEL CENTER HUB CAPS' LOGO STICKERS," on eBay. You can find more than one set of decals for your center caps (bow tie).
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Thanks Bro, will do!
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Made some progress getting my rear window repaired. After welding it in, I got the weld ground down, smoothed out, all around the window frame, Primed it today with 2K epoxy primer, and tomorrow I will apply a 2nd coat of rust seal for future protection around the inside of the channel to protect from moisture. Then will sand it all and put another coat of 2K Epoxy Primer on it all. After welding work may have been more work than welding it in.
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Looks great! Have fun blocking
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Mighty fine metal work. Me likes the Bilstien's
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Thanks all. Will get some more pics in 3-4 days after more progress is made. I like Bilstiens as well chevn-up, the one problem with Bilstien is that they do not have (at least I could not find) the Quad shocks for the front of my K10. I had to get a Bilstein 24-009232 Series: B6 4600 & a Rancho on the front. Got the Bilstein 24-009331 Series: B6 4600 – Rear Shocks Installed. Also installed a Steering Damper Kit – Moog-ssd84.
Does anyone have a PIC of where the 4x4 indicator light switch connector wires run that comes from the top of the transfer case? I have wiring diagrams, was wondering how the wires are routed from the transfe case (through the floor shifter or under the hood and then through the firewall). I installed a new switch and connector. I had my tranfer case and transmission rebuilt some time ago and when I started my rebuild, I found out why my 4x4 indication light does not work. The connector was cut off and wires removed. Previously never bothered with it since everything worked (except the indicator light). If someone is doing a rebuild and have a pic of the wires that would be great.
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Huge improvement for me switching from Ranchos (that were free to me) going to Bilsteins. 8)
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I prefer the Bilsteins. They are well made!
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Got my cab painted. Still have another coat of clear to apply (3 coats) and go over it a final time. Then clean it all up and start putting it back together. Also have to work on my bed and leer topper. It is a little difficult painting without a booth. However, got to do with what you have. I spent a while cleaning up some of the factory seams (such as above the rear window) to get a smoother look. Hope visible seams is not something people like to show on the trucks. Still have to paint my doors and fenders.
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Excellent! Pretty color too! 8)
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I agree about the seams and spot weld divots, can't believe they were so nonchalant about it.
That color looks like my '78 K10. Although the repaint done some years back looks a tinge lighter.
Nice Job for outdoors! My first car shoot was in the back lot of the apartment where I lived, about 2 pm when everyone was at work. Turned out well, no wind, had my buddy keeping the water flowing on the surrounding concrete and alley. '67 Olds Toronado
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Thanks for the complements, still have a way to go. Look forward to one day getting it back on the road. Hope I can recall how to put it all back together and not have spare parts when I am done, LOL.
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Nice progress
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Thanks VZ! When putting my windshield and rear window back in my truck, I was not planning on using adhesive when I place my new seals on my cab (bought new Deluxe seals and Trim for both). I have noticed some use adhesive and would like to get advice.
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Did you get the zipper gaskets?
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Did you get the zipper gaskets?
Explain what that might be por favor?
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Solid gaskets or lock strip design.
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I got the deluxe seals, they have the trim (the strip that goes in the seal) after the windshield is installed. Was thinking sealant (adhesive) is not needed with the seals and just wanted to make sure. Same type of seals for the windshield and rear cab window. The rubber seals should arrive soon, I ordered them online.
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Solid gaskets or lock strip design.
Illustrations of differences? I'm getting set to get rid of my hated slider, and I'd like to see the benefits/drawbacks. Sorry to pee in your thread Mike. ;)
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I have a slider and I could be wronge but I think the rubber is the same for the window or the slider. I might look into a rear window instead of the slider. Never really use the slider and you have to deal with the maintenance of it.
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I never use mine, except to clean it where it leaks inside.... :o
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Working on my doors and stripped the Drivers door down. I gutted out most of the door and will be installing new regulators in both doors (had already bought them and found the regulators in my doors are not in bad shape). Do need to get the rollers/channels greased up prior to installing the new regulators. They are not that hard to take out once you learn how and takes 5 to 7 minutes.
1) With the window rolled all the way up - Remove the four regulator screws
2) Making sure the window does not move - roll it down to get the rollers moving until the wheel in the botton (lower) channel clears
3) Push the handle crank post (regulator) into the door
4) Move the regulator forward to clear the front roller in the window channel
5) Mover the regulator back a little to clear and remove the last roller from the slot in the window channel.
Have some rust along the bottom of the doors and the inside lower section of the door had some surface rust. I Cleaned it, used the metal prep, and applied KBS Rust Seal (similiar to POR 15 - Just like it better) to the inside lower section of the door. I made an extension for my paint brush to reach the bottom inside of the door and it worked very well. Will do the same on the lower outside bottom.
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Don't forget to clear or re-drill the drain holes- learned the hard way when I had a guy repaint a Porsche 356. Within a year, rust... :o
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Good advice JP! I will make sure the drain holes are clear.
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Made some progress. After gutting my DS door of all parts, I refinished the inside of the door and left the outside of the door 2K epoxy primed for now. The door latch assembly came very clean with KBS Klean (like the POR Cleaner). I then painted it with black ceramic brake caliber paint. Refinished the door Hinges as well. Will try to get the door put back together tomorrow and start on the PS.
I also stripped the parts off the back of my truck bed, tailgate bumpers and tailgate trunnion/hinges. I stripped and refinished the back of the bed and got new bumpers. Had to cover my LINEX bed to prevent over spray.
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Doing Prep work on parts to put my door back together. The sash on my window is rusted and I thought about buying a new one. After seeing they are $50 or more each I decided to clean what I have and they seem to have turned out OK. I will put a rust seal on the sash after the metal prep dries, then grease the inside channel.
I am the second owner of my truck (was OEM), have had my 81 K10 since 1986 and have discovered correct parts I look up for my truck are sometimes listed for earlier model years, 78 to 80 models. I have attached a picture of the door glass sash as an example. Sometimes it causes difficulty when looking up parts. If I do not find them for an 81 I have to look at earlier models and was wondering if it is an error by parts stores or some older model parts were used in the building of my truck by the manufacturer.
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Just in case some of your don't see the post I made in shows and swaps. There is a C-10 Truck Show in Ft. Worth, TX on 13 Aug 2020 to 15 Aug 2020. Don't know yet if I will make it.
The event was going to happen on 29 May 2020 and I checked into it for the new information. New flyer is attached!
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Would love to go, ain't wearing a no mask... ;D
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Buffed out the paint on part of my cab, hard work and wears me out. Could see my reflection. I also waxed the inside of the cab, been a 2 or 3 weeks since I painted it. Finally putting parts back on my truck instead of just stripping parts off. I painted the metal frame around my window with a black metalic GM paint. Installed my rear window and will work on getting my doors on next and so forth. Did not think it would be so rough putting the window in, The bottom metal corners where a pain to get in and I bent one of them a little bit.
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Looking good. The chrome strip window locks are a bit of a pain but they look nice.
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looks good!
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Thanks for the comments. Finally decided on the paint scheme for my paint. Decided to do a two tone, three if you count the pin stripes (most challenging part to paint). I completed my paint work on my DS door so I can install the window and vent window, as well as the rest of the parts without them getting in the way of the painting. I still need to buff the clear to get the mirror glaze.
I will complete the paint work on the other door PS next. Believe it might be best to do most of the paint work on the rest of the truck after I install the body parts, have not made up my mind on that yet.
PS: Just got my door buffed out and will start putting it back together. Satisfied with the results, yet have such a long way to go to finish. I at least know the direction I am going.
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I got my drivers side door put back together and gutted out my passenger door and started to strip it down. Have a little more rust on the bottom of my passenger door than I had with my drivers side. I will close up the holes where the carpet panel was located at the bottom and just redrill the holes if I elect to put it back on. Still have much stripping to do, just got started on the rust area first.
Don't know if any of you use the 3M Scotch-Brite Paint & Rust Stripper (like a poly Web Wheel for the Drill). I have used it quite abit on my truck and it has been a huge help, it does not damage the metal as the wire wheel can. However, in places I still use a wire wheel as well.
I had been waiting on some hardware to get it back together. Believe the doors are more of a challenge to strip due to having to gut and paint than the fenders and the bed will be.
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Had to repaint the cab roof because I was not happy with the way it looked. After painting I sanded with 2000 then 3000 grit and then used my polisher with rubbing compound and waxed it! Sanding made a mess of the floor, have to clean and will hang my doors in the next couple of days and install the windows. Finally going to start putting my truck back together. It had been awhile since I got some progress done. Still have to refinish my fenders and the bed.
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The unfortunate part of doing bodywork is the collateral damage. It's hard to remove the staining from wet sanding and compounding. I use plastic, lots of soap and clean up as I go but it still makes a mess! Nice progress
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True VZ, found that out the hard way.
Seems I have a problem of going back and trying to make some things look better after I already worked on or fixed something. I did not like the seam on my firewall very much and even though most will be covered by a plate when I install my Vintage Air System, I decided to sand it back down and rework the seam using Everglass and Quantum1 body filler. The seam was bugging me the way it looked and I just wanted to make it look a little better. Don't know if it made much of a difference but attached some pictures from before and after.
Bad thing is! If I want to finish, I have to stop going over things I have previously worked on.
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Since what you had wasn't "preserving", it's definitely an improvement.
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Thanks VZ! Was a big job when I had to cut out all the rust and weld in the patch panels to repair the firewall and cowl area. Can now say there is no rust on my cab or chassis, doors, fenders, and hood. Still have to finish the bed. The bed has some surface rust on the underside that I have to remove and refinish. I am almost done with the exterior of the bed.
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You're making a lot of progress!
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VZ you know your stuff! I was thinking about the foil/rubber type of heat and sound shield for my floor pan and was wondering if you might have a suggestion on a good quality product to use. My primary goal is extra protection and something to assist with the Vintage Air I am going to install.
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I've used several different products and they all pretty much did the same thing and applied exactly the same. In areas that will be visible, you do not want a foil facing product. There are black faced products out there, for example, the firewall where you would see an ugly shiny tin foil looking backing staring at you. So eanie meanimine moe, I have no brand loyalty over them. I usually buy whoever has the best deal happening.
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This is coming along really well! I like that you didn't just leave that firewall in that condition despite the fact that you already had it painted. Just wondering why you didn't use those welding skills and fill the seams then dress them down. Either way it looks a lot better. Don't forget seam sealer on the inside of the cowl to keep dirt and debris from building up in he joints and rotting it away.
Have you been spraying all this in the back yard?
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I had spot welded about every 2 inches along the seam as it was when OEM and did grind them down the best I could. Decided to spot weld them like they were from the factory just in case the seam had to be broken to be worked on in the future. I welded along the entire upper part of the patch panel were I butt welded the new fabricated metal in and I should have taken more time so I would not have to rework the seam. The firewall and cowl area was the beginning of a learning experience. There was much fabrication and welding needed and I bought a new welder for this project and it was my first time welding.
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That's a lot of good reasoning...
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Feel relieved! Completed the cab with the exception of some seam sealer in a couple spots, which I will try to take care of tomorrow. I cleaned up the floor pan and the rest of the cab from painting and block sanding the roof. Within the next couple of days I will try to get all the glass installed and doors. Not sure if I can install the windshield alone or will need to get some assistance.
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Nice!
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Looking Good! ;)
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Absolutely gorgeous ! Keep plugging away at it.
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That thing is going to be killer when you are done. 8)
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Thanks for the support. I hung my passenger door yesterday. It was not aligning up very well and I got frustrated and quit until today. Gave me time to think of what to do and it came together much easier today. I then sanded the area of the cab where I have to apply the two tone paint. Wanted to wait till the door was hung to ensure good lines. Still have to paint the double pin strip and then clear coat it. The door is really tight with the new rubber and I have to close it a little hard for it to shut. If my feet hold up, got to hurting me real bad today, hope to finish the pin strip and clear coating tomorrow.
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Keep pounding that salt, and posting pics of the progress! 8)
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Do you have the color code for the base? I believe it is the correct color for my K10, the PO didn't quite match it. Though the color they went with is a little brighter.
Thanks!
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The paint codes I am using are shown below:
301N - Jewel Red Metallic (Chevy 2012 Malibu Paint Code primary paint)
WA7564 - Dark Claret Metallic (Chevy 1981 Truck Paint Code - 2nd color tone area)
WA9088 - Cherry Red Metallic (GM Color 1994 for various makes - used to pin stripe)
WA8767 - Black Metallic (GM Color 1987-1990 for various makes - used for trim around rear window)
The WA7564 - Dark Claret Metallic, is an original 1981 Chevy paint code for my truck. However the lighter red 301N was from a 2012 Chevy Malibu.
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Thanks Mike! Really helped!
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JP, here are the paint codes I have for Chevrolet, 1981. The paint codes of course would have been good for other years and other GM makes and models, in some cases.
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Got both doors hung. Still have to install the door glass! Just got the drivers side fender refinished and will install after I refinish the wheel well and put a couple things back together first. Painting the double pen stripe was a little more difficult with the line curves. Almost done with my bed as well.
Have to buy some fuel hose, going with J30R9. Does anyone have a suggestion on fuel hose clamps? Body work has been taking so long and will be glad when I just have to worry about putting everything together and get it on the road.
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Looks great. Them body panels are fun to line up aren't they 8)
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Yep, much fun - not. Much headaches and measuring! I got started on my wheel wells so I can get the fenders installed. Real pain cleaning up all the old undercoat, paint, and dirt. Will take me at least a couple of days to get them done.
I bought Fuel Hose, J30R9 3/8", 5/16", and 1/4" and some fuel hose clamps (Hose Clamps, Fuel Injection, Compression, Steel, Zinc Plated) for the various hose sizes that I purchased. Will soon install my fuel tanks.
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Nice work! 8)
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You are doing good work!
I don't know why I didn't notice it before but I really like the way you blacked out the rear window frame. I was thinking about the same for all or at least most of my trim when the truck gets painted again. Seeing yours it's a definite "to-do" now.
Keep it coming!
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Yes, I like the rear window frame black. I hung the DS door about a week ago. I stripped the wheel wells and refinished them. I also installed the windshield today. It was a little rough doing it by myself and I ran out of daylight and will have to do the trim tomorrow if the weather permits. I am starting to put the parts back in and after I get some things installed under the hood, I will install the fenders.
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Looking Good, Inspiring!
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Thanks JP! Was not able to get any work done today. Weather down day, had to button down and get everything ready for the hurricane.
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Finally got my backyard paint booth repaired and can start working on my truck tomorrow. The high winds had torn it up.
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As I previously said, I got my backyard paint booth rebuilt after it got destroyed by the huricane winds and I am working again on my truck. As shown a couple of post ago I completed my DS Fender and I am now working on the PS fender. Almost done with body work and painting. Also working the back plate that goes just above the front bumper.
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I have finally completed my PS Fender, Front Bumper Back plate trim, and the cowl. Feels good to be done with both fenders and the other parts. It takes awhile to do a two tone paint with the double painted pin stripes. Can start getting the front end put back together. Feels like I am starting to make progress after feeling like it has been dragging on slowly.
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Looks great! 8)
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You're doing a great job! Looking forward to more pic's.
Dan says it all!
I second that!!!
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Thanks! Will have some more pics soon.
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Got my Regulators, Vent Window, Windows installed in my doors. I painted the two tone and pin stripes on the cab corners. Also painted the Vintage Air Gen IV firewall cover plate to match the firewall. I sprayed the backside of the cover plate with a ruberized coating. Still have a long way to go, at least I am now putting my truck back together instead of tearing it apart.
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Had bad weather for a few days and this morning at 1:30am got high winds from the hurricane remnants that blew through. High winds destroyed my paint booth and got lucky my fenders did not get damaged after all the work I put into them. My 6' privacy fence had about 40 feet of it blown down and had to do yard clean up.
Had a little just a little time to work on my truck and installed the firewall A/C covers that I had painted. The one for the Blower Motor/Fan hole and the Heater Box hole. Hope to make some quick progress on the rest if weather permits.
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Was a nice day today! Putting in my Vintage A/C System and the firewall pad. Using sockets to melt holes for the A/C lines, bolts, and Etc.
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Made a little progress today by getting my new Firewall Pad and Vintage Air Gen IV under dash A/C unit in. It was quit a bit more work than I expected. The lines had to be adjusted a few times to fit the holes and I actually got my wife to help me get the mounting bolts started while I held the unit in the truck. Getting my wife to help me do any work on my truck is a big deal. She avoids having anything to do with working on my truck. However, it was greatly appreciated, since I would not have been able to get the unit in without her help.
The firewall pad needed some holes cut out and there are a few that needed to be reshaped and a couple that was not needed. I spent a little bit of time over a few days to get the firewall pad to work and to get the A/C unit installed under the dash.
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Your progress keeps me inspired - keep up the good work, and congrats on the breakthrough!
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Awesome... I've wanted one of those vintagesair units for a long time. I think that first one I experienced was in a restored '69 c10. Night and day from the 80's technology under the hood and dash right now.
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Thanks all! Not cheap, hope the air blows nice and cool when done. Wish I could spend more time on my truck. Only work on it now and then when I don't have to do other things. Doing some storm damage work around the house! Hope to get it all together before long.
Wonder what others think about using a cowl induction hood. I have a steel one with a 3" cowl on it. Then I also have the original hood. Was thinking about just using the original hood. I bought the cowl hood new some time ago and just never used it.
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Some cowl hoods look awesome. Factory hoods look great too. The only hoods I dislike are snorkels, hickeys and I'm not a huge fan of the center ridge cowl hoods especially if it's a large version. You're making good progress and hey, I look at it as an adventure as opposed to lack of progress ;)
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Stock hood, IMHO....at the very most, louvers, but not for me....
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Thanks Shifty! Was kinda leaning towards keeping my original hood.
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You got it Mike... 8)
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Been awhile since I was able to get some work done. However, today I refinished the brake peddle assy, installed it and the brake booster, installed the A/C water lines, installed the wiper motor (thanks to VZ for giving me thread size so I could tap out the holes), and I am hoping to make some addition progress more quickly.
I noticed my brake booster push rod is missing the boot and have been trying to locate one today. If anyone has suggestions where one could be located, I would appreciate it. I have looked on this sites store and many others without much progress to show for it. I must have left it on the old one when I gave it as a core, when I bought the new one.
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Tried to get the accelerator installed today, found I need a couple parts. Did refinish the Bracket and the accelerator peddle. Also decided to install the cowl plastic insert and cover. However, decided to modify it by cutting and attaching some aluminum window screen with black silicone I had from home repairs.
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Why did you add the screen? To try and catch debris?
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Yes, hoping it will do better at keeping out broken up leaves and debis since the holes are much smaller. Just came up with the idea at the last second prior to installing it. Perhaps it was a waste of time, time will tell.
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Mike you're killing me..... Those pics of the interior are making me want to just tear everything apart now! You are making great progress and I'm sure you can't wait to enjoy all your hard work.
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Thanks! One problem from stripping everything apart is damaged hardware such as nuts, bolts, screws, seals grommets, the firewall pad, small parts, and so on. I believe a majority of my hardware and many parts are new and I have to make rubber seals and gaskets from gasket material for parts. I am over $14,000 into my truck so far.
Unlike some of you that have done rebuilds many times, this is my first complete rebuild and sometimes it can be difficult to get everything back OEM. The repair manual, other documents, and this forum has helped provide me with needed information.
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It's always the small pieces that get you and the...well I already went this far, might as well ______! Fill in the blank and it applies to every project.
14k is going to be awesome to drive around for the next 30-40 years!
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"brake booster boot" in Google will find you what you are looking for. PS those reman boosters rust if you don't repaint them. I would recommend spraying it down good with brake clean, hitting it with etch primer and some satin black. 8)
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Thanks VZ! I thought the same about the brake boosters rusting. I believe the one I got was new and more expensive than other choices. However, I did use paint prep (grease and oil remover on it) and then shot it with clear. Thought about black but decided on the clear coat instead to give it a more original look.
Have you or any else had negative thoughts about the three screws that hold the accelerator peddle assy to the firewall? The firewall metal is not very thick and I do not think the three screws are that strong. Was think about going to three bolts with nuts instead.
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If it's tight it's right.
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"brake booster boot" in Google will find you what you are looking for. PS those reman boosters rust if you don't repaint them. I would recommend spraying it down good with brake clean, hitting it with etch primer and some satin black. 8)
Tried to use one I thought would work from online, but it didn't. However, got lucky today and got one from a 1989 GMC 4x4. The GMC appears to have been from a field. There is quite bit of rat droppings in it and the engine is full of weeds and nests. Also got some other goodies and plan to go back tomorrow to get more. It has some decent original seat belts that I was told they will cost me $17.00 and some other parts I could use. Got the Fuse panel with part of the wiring harness along with the brake booster rod boot and a few other parts.
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Believe the truck is actually a 1986 GMC 4x4, the salvage yard had it listed as a 1989. Being a 1986 makes more sense since many parts on it would work on my 81 K10. Went back to the salvage yard today. Only the passenger seat belt was good. The drivers side was broken and would not work. However, I ended up with some good stuff. I cleaned the visors right away and they look almost new, better than those I have. I also look forward to using the booster rod boot and some of the other parts I managed to get. Getting the Boot and cowl fasteners was a relief since they cannot be found on the internet. Sad to see another square going to the crusher. The windshield or the back window does not even have a crack in it - Perfect condition!
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Nice Haul!
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Why won't the boot work? I've used them.
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Bought one just like your pick VZ and it would not fill the firewall hole. The hole is about 2" or 2.25" in my fire wall and the boot shown is smaller. I will soon try the one from the salvage yard and believe it will work. It was worth a try and as always I do appreciate your assistance VZ. Will attach some pick to show what I mean soon.
I am back and have some picks. I also worked on my hood hinges and Springs, as well as my dash speaker mounts. I previously had painted them all in black and decided to paint them to match the rest of the truck. I my redo my wheel wells from the black to red as well, have not decided for sure yet on those. As you can see from the picks, the online purchase of the Brake Booster Rod boot did not work out so well, had I used it my cab would have been flooded out. The boot from the salvage yard was a perfect fit, nice and water tight.
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Installed some small things and did some parts painting. The OEM factory screws that holds the accelerator to the firewall was loose. They have a course thread and did not hold well. I removed them and used 3/16" stainless bolts and used a washer and a lock nut on them. Solid now!
Has anyone else thought the accelerator cable is a little too long by about 3 to 4 inches (cable just over 15"). It works, just does not look right. Have a picture of it and the nuts on the three bolts from the peddle assembly.
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The smaller bolts should work since there are three. An alternative is to install steel nut-serts seated in red Loctite and use the original diameter bolts.
Some of the original throttle cables seemed a little long. But, better to be slightly long than to be too short such that engine movement tugs the cable and forces runaway RPM and loss of vehicle control or a collision. The real problem is that aftermarket cables are one-size-fits-all so that fewer cables service a greater number of vehicles; not-to-mention inferior materials used during manufacture. Runaway capitalism! ::)
Your truck is coming along nicely.
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The three bolts were the same size as the screws. Weather was nice today and I managed to bench bleed the Master Brake Cylinder (actual BBQ Grill Bled it - Clamp on the handle) using a Philips screw driver with a rubber block off cap on the tip then installed it. Will try to get the lines hooked up tomorrow. However, will need to get some more brake fluid first. Don't want to run out while bleeding the brakes. Trying to get as much done as possible prior to installing my fenders and hood so I will have more room to work and to prevent scratching it up.
Also cleaned up the passenger fuel tank metal lines. Soaked them for a few days in denatured alcohol and ran a cleaning line threw them. Appears I got them clean inside. I also installed a few minor parts today.
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Got the last of the brake lines hooked up to the master cylinder and proportioning valve. Decided to use Dot 3&4 by Valvoline for my new brake system. Got the brakes bled today. However, it was not without problems. The lines to the proportioning valve and the barrel nut that is close to the fuel tank selector valve was leaking and had to be tightened up. Thought they were tight and discovered you have to get them torqued pretty good to keep them from leaking. Made a couple of brake bleeder bottles and started with both rear and then worked front.
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Looking good! Brakes are always fun. One lesson I've learned and has served me well is tightening down flaired fittings, backing them off and repeating 2-3 times especially when any new component is added. Gotta let them get to know each other really well!
Curious about the proportioning valve you used. What brand is it? Does it have a small hole with a star washer pressed in on the rear proportioning fitting?
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I will attach the information on the valve. It was exactly the same as my original OEM that came with the truck when originally sold. I removed the brake warning light connector and put in a bleeder screw in plug that I purchased when I bought the valve. My old one actually worked. I just decided to replace it since every other brake part was changed in my system.
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That looks the same as the CPP and POL one, may be the same manufacturers. Either way pay close attention to the machined hole in one of the flats for the rear outlet. If there isn't some sort of seal then you're probably good. If there is one then it is a tale-tale with a high failure rate. Your first few test drives will likely give you the go-no-go. If it is the same style and starts leaking it will not stop even if you never touch the brakes again.
Truly hope this doesn't happen to you but I'd hate to see paint ruined when it could have been prevented.
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Do you think the proportioning valve I have may fail? If so is there one that is of better quality and more reliable out there?
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I cannot tell exactly by that pic you posted. Does it have a small hole with a star washer pressed in on the rear proportioning fitting? If it does then there's a very good chance that weep hole will start leaking. Just keep an eye on it. When it happened to me my warranty was up because it sat in a parts pile for too long waiting to be put on. I tried everything to stop it. I even peened over the small nipple in there just to get by till I replaced it. I'll look and what I replaced mine with. If the brakes are good and you have a vacuum pump of some sort then go outside and give some emergency breaking stops. May not be a bad one. Keep in mind I'm basing this off of one thing.
*Does it have a small hole with a star washer pressed in on the rear proportioning fitting?
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*Does it have a small hole with a star washer pressed in on the rear proportioning fitting?
Don't think it has the star washer pressed in and I got a better picture. Had some problems today when I took off the bleeder plug to put the one that is supposed to go on with the wire connector. Had to remove the Master Cylinder #1 line to get the plug unscrewed. Lost some fluid out the line and it was hard to push the connector on. Was thinking my lines may have been a little difficult to tighten because they are stainless steel. May have to bleed the brakes again later to ensure there is no air in the lines. However, I may be good, since it was the Master cylinder line. Then I had to wash everything up with soap to get all the fluid cleaned up. Glad I have not installed my fenders yet.
I organized and fastened down the lines and can finally go on to other tasks. Did start putting in switches today as well.
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The truck is looking good! Where did you get your brake lines? and how did they fit?
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Shame on you Mike, re-building your truck to perfection, and not steel-wooling your power steering lines.... :D
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Thanks Shifty! I tried to clean them but did not think about steel wool. I will try to do that!
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Prep'd and painted the kick panels, ran some wiring, Speedo cable, and some other things. I had to fabricate a seal for the fuse panel at the firewall, where they connect together. It took awhile, had to fab the pattern and then the rubber seal. Wish these parts were available.
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8)
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Got my kick panels installed, Hood Release, Ground Bar, Hood Hinges with the Rubber pad (did not have one previously and had to modify some to work), and neutral safety switch installed (among a few other things). Have a Dk Blue and Green wire two pin connector that goes through the firewall via a grommet (next to the fuse box) that I am not sure how it will connect yet. According to the wiring diagram, it looks like the neutral safety switch. Will take information on it or pictures from your truck with it connected. Only have the one big hole to fill in behind the engine and a couple of firewall pad retainers to install along with the steering column, besides completing the harness install. Then hood, fenders, and complete the rest of the A/C install.
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If all else fails, you could lop the ends off, and install male and female GM Weatherpak connectors as used on later model vehicles, though that's not the "correct" way to do it.
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The safety start circuit is yellow and purple. Dark blue and light green are for backup lamps.
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Reworked my wire harness by replacing some of the wires and I cleaned it up a bit (still needs more cleaning and bought some contact cleaner yesterday). However, the labels on it were in bad shape and what was left disappeared when I tried to clean off the dirt and grime. It bothered me a great deal and so I bought some fine tip paint markers and relabeled the fuse block by hand. Would love to get OEM labels that would stick on and thought about a new harness, just did not think it was worth the money (> $500.00) since mine is in good condition.
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In between the nasty storms, I installed my Cowl and Windshield Washer Hoses and nozzles. Saved me much trouble finding the pins for the cowl at the local salvage yard. Took care of a few minor things as well. More difficult and takes longer to put the truck back together than it was to tear it apart.
I'm cleaning up and getting ready to install the distributor harness and it has a wire for what looks like it goes to a detonation sensor that has not been used many years. The connector for the detonation sensor is gone and I do not have a detonation sensor on my engine. Was wondering if anyone uses a detonation sensor on their truck.
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Hummin' along Mike!
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Got many small things done today. Working on my wire harness and should be finished with it in 2-3 days. I installed the ESC Controller today, the rest of my firewall pad fasteners (had to find some that would work at the local parts store), those that came with it would not work, installed my hood latch, and refinished my clutch push rod, and worked on the linkage a bit by installing an insert to prevent wear. However, I am having to slowly sand the inside until the clutch pushrod fits into it. Figured I would attach just a few pics from today. I thought about doing away with the ESC Controller and getting an MSD Distributor. Not sure if I should keep stay original or go that way and close off the firewall hole for the wires from the ESC and pull out the controller yet. Any suggestions!
Edit: Went ahead and pulled the ESC back out and may weld in a patch panel where the ESC wire harness comes through the firewall, unless I use it for a CD Ignition Box under the dash. Wish I had thought of it prior to refinishing the firewall, but it is what it is.
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Pulled the trigger and ordered the MSD 8362 From Holley. Installed a bushing in my clutch peddle pushrod mounting hole to prevent ware and looseness. Have to get another boot and then will get my linkage reconnected. Should complete my wiring by the end of this weekend and then I have to do a little work on my hood get it installed and then on to my fenders & wheel wells.
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Did you land your brake differential pressure switch connector there intentionally?
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Put the switch back on the clutch peddle into its original location and the electrical connector for the proportioning valve. Any suggestions of something better will be gladly accepted.
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Like this
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Thanks VZ! Mine must have got bent down and I did not know it. Will bent it back up. Been working on my harness some more today and have it about right. I Have a grey and yellow wire that goes to the (appears to be radio connector) know what the radio connector looks like just not sure if there is a connector prior to it, where these wires go. Will try to track down the other wires to find it tomorrow and the radio wire harness. Will attach a pic (see the Yellow and Grey) the two wires broke off and not contacted to anything. Wiring on the truck is a pain (but getting use to it and not as bad as it was at first) and I was a master aircraft electrician. Problem is the location of some connectors and 4 or wire spliced junctions that has no location and the diagrams in my maintenance book it not the best of quality (hard to read when two diagrams bleed together). I am used to well written and clear schedmatic diagrams. Will use weather pack connectors in places when I am done.
I also have the switch on the transfer case that I have to try and hook up. I installed a new one and a weather pack pig tail to the switch, need to wire it in with no existing wires. I believe the old switch was probably wired up at one time and disconnected and the wires disappeared from someone doing transmission work or such. Now days, I do almost all work on my truck. Will still have to wire in the Vintage Air GenIV unit when I get to that point.
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Yellow is accessory power, gray is instrument panel dimmer.
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Thanks bd! My truck is getting a bit dusty from the bad weather and needs cleaning.
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Some had problems with the stainless steel lines from inline. I had a few minor problems. However, they worked out OK and I am attaching some pics of them. My truck has been a driveway build and it got a little dirty lately. Got the differential pressure switch connector but back into position VZ, thanks.
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Nice! Very neat and clean.
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Lookin good!
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Thanks VZ! I got my front light harness reworked, should get my new headlamp sockets on Monday to complete it. Installed the Clutch Pushrod with Boots Upper and lower, was a little loose prior to my build - fits tight now and should not rattle at all. Refinished my steering column (repainted) and installed new switch. Was going to install it today, however I have to figure out how to deal with screwing on the firewall plate with rubber pad with the firewall pad in the way. Had to install the pad prior to the steering column because you have the hole in the pad for it to go through and other reasons but then it complicates getting the screws in for the plate.
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Great progress! How do you do all that so quickly?
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Wish it was quick! It has been slow actually. Been working on the truck for a while and just starting to make a little more progress as of late. Will get my steering column installed over the next couple of days (working on finding some hardware for it) and then my wire harness. Then my hood, fenders, and etc.
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Received my headlamp and side marker sockets yesterday and replaced the sockets in the front harness today. Installed it back in the truck. Installed the steering column and wheel. However, will need to pull the wheel and put new horn parts in it, will be another new thing I have never done before, chalk it up I guess to all the others new experiences. Will try to get the interior harness started this week and will soon start putting the hood and fenders on.
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Your truck is coming along nicely. It is very apparent that you take a lot of pride in your work! And rightly so! Very professional!
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Thanks bd! Will feel better when I get the hood and fenders on and finish the A/C system. Started as doing a few repairs to repair my fuel system and water leaks into the cab and led to a complete rebuild. My knowledge of my truck has greatly increased from doing a complete rebuild as I suppose would be the case for everyone. Learned better ways to do things along the way as well. Many on this forum has been helpful to include you and VZ.
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...Started as doing a few repairs to repair my fuel system and water leaks into the cab and led to a complete rebuild...
Funny how that works! "Well, maybe just one more thing...." 8)
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Got my hood refinished for the 2nd time. Got a little damage on it after I did the first refinish. This time a painted a two tone. Actually a stripe (with pin stripes) on each side that was a little bit of a pain to match the side of my truck. You can see older pictures of the doors and fenders to see what I mean. Turned out OK overall, a few minor imperfections. Bad weather and a few other issues delayed me working on it as much as I would like. I Will probably install it within the next two days and then the fenders.
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Looks good, I really like the two tone stripes.
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Lookin good
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Thanks All! I installed my hood today and will try to get my fenders on this weekend.
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Looks great!
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Thanks 80K20! A little rough doing everything alone to include lifting and putting on the hood and other parts without scratching them, kinda of feels good to do it all myself though. Got started installing my fenders. Got the passenger side on and still need a little adjustments. I buffed it outa bit more prior to install it. Had to cut the half circle out above the top shock on the wheel well with a jig saw and touch it up, it was a replacement years ago and it never did fit right until now (I think for 4WD it was supposed to be cut out from the beginning). Will try to get the DS Fender on tomorrow. I am happy the pin stripe lines appear to be lining up, I had used measurements to paint them and never did put the fender and doors together until now.
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Looks like your door to fender gap is tight. Make sure your radiator support is loose so you can adjust the gaps good. It's lookin real good and having a helper can make things worse because you might settle vs power through the struggle.
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Thanks VZ, always appreciate advice from you. I do have the radiator support loose and all the bolts are not tight yet, to include the wheel well bolts. I left them loose to try and work the gaps tomorrow to get them right. Does feel good to start getting more done though and I was happy the lines are looking OK because I was actually concerned about how they would work out. The hood will need some adjustments as well.
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I'm not there on my '80, but imaging using my cherry picker to assist on some things.
Great job, reaching 'critical mass' !!
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Got back on the truck today. Got the gaps straight and happy with them. Door opens and closes fine. All bolts are in both the fender and wheel well and a couple of Wheel Well bolts had an attitude but they finally played nice. Went ahead and installed the battery tray. The fender where it mounts to the cowl is where the alignment problems was. Thought I might need to use a shim. However, I though about things over night and decided to remove the fender and hit that flat area of the fender a few times that lays on the cowl with a rubber mallet to bend it down a little and it worked perfect, no shims needed.
Will need to adjust the hood to fix the gaps and make them even.
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Nice!
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Looking good!
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Thanks all! Now have both fenders on. Been a long time since the truck had its fenders. Still need to adjust the hood gap a bit and some of the wheel well bolts on the drivers side. The door gap seems OK and it opens and closes well. Much more to put together and have to finish the A/C install. It seems the body lines are lining up well, which is a relief.
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That's nice work, looking good!
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Been awhile since I was able to work on my truck and have not been on line much. Been raining quite a bit and finally got some work done today. I got my hood aligned and gaps fixed today. Was a big relief! I also started installing items back under my hood such as the Washer bottle, Vacuum Canister, Hooked up my horn, and installed most of the front lighting harness. I also sanded my wheels down and repainted them (epoxy primer, argent, and 2k clear). Will get the tires swapped off the wheels they are one and install the new ones before long.
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Finally installing my wire harness and got the fuse box in. Had to get a couple of new small bolts with nuts to replace the two screws that where stripped out. The center bot was fine. I also got a need new jack (Green - One of my favorite Colors) so I can remove my wheels and get the tires put on the new rally wheels that I refinished. In the evening and during bad weather when could not work on my truck I built a plastic model truck. The only one I could find was a 1984 GMC model. I used the same paint on my truck to do the model to look like my truck, the best I could.
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Great progress, and I especially love the model!
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I like the matching wagon wheels!
By the way, where did you find the model?
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Found the model at Hobby Lobby. It was labeled 1984 GMC Pickup/Camion 1/25 Scale name of truck was Deserter, model by MPC. I painted the under carriage and the shocks to look like Bilsteins. Been raining quite a bit lately and it gave me something to do when I could not work on my truck. The model is done now and I am sure my wife will ensure I have much to do when I can't work on my truck.
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My Fuel Tank Selector Valve did not want to work. I got it cleaned up and lubricated the internal springs and such and got it working good. Mounted it on my truck. Prior to fixing it I looked around and was going to buy a new one but I do not like the new ones out there. Has anyone seen a Selector Valve that looks like mine? It says McCord WINN on it. It seems to be a bit larger and it appears to have a larger motor on it than the new ones. Just look better built and I am glad I was able to get it working.
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You've done an amazing job! Are either of the red colors on your truck, factory? Particularly interested in the color name or paint code of the brighter red color, rather than the darker stripe. My 83 GMC was repainted a very similar color and I don't have a paint code so I'm curious. Thanks.
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301N - Jewel Red Metallic (Chevy 2012 Malibu Paint Code primary paint)
WA7564 - Dark Claret Metallic (Chevy 1981 Truck Paint Code - 2nd color tone area - Stripe)
WA9088 - Cherry Red Metallic (GM Color 1994 for various makes - used to pin stripe)
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I'm going to assume it was an aftermarket replacement that has gone by the way of the dinosaur. The way the fuels are today, don't be surprised if it doesn't last unless you exercise the valve.
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Think that is what was wrong with it VZ because it worked when I removed it. However, the 3/8" port was closed up from the gunk.
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I am getting my tanks ready to hang. I went over the Filler necks and metal tubing. There was quite bit if gunk and rust in them, mostly the drivers side tank. Could not find new metal filler tubes so I cleaned them inside and out. I sprayed the outside of them with zinc CRC spray and cleared them and the inside I used a fuel tank coating. They turned out pretty good and I like the white because it allows me good visibility inside. I am adding a before picture of the filler assembly.
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Nice job sir!
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Been a while, things got in the way of truck progress and logging in. Over the last two weeks I got a bit completed. I found I could not keep my old rotors free of rust so I bought new rotors with hubs (Painted the hubs black and used the old lugs to protect the new studs from paint - have new chrome lugs) they were bare like the rotor and where together) and new inner and outer bearing. Changed them out. Also worked on my A/C system and got it completed except for some of the wiring. Had to cut out a section of the radiator support and weld in some metal so my A/C lines could run without the binding they were doing. Got my radiator back in with shroud and new radiator hoses. Bought some AC Delco double platinum spark plugs. Got my timing set at top dead center with my new distributor. I also got my Transfer Case shifter installed with the transmission cover reinstalled. Got my X'fer case and transmission switches installed and wired in. Will attached some pictures.
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Few more pics!
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Fine work man!
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Thanks Shifty!
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Installed a new fuel pump (it OEM Mechanical) Old one was in rough shape and I had a lifetime warranty so I got a new one, installed the radiator over fill Reservoir, stripped the Air Cleaner and refinished it, and began hanging my fuel tanks (DS done and 50% done with the PS), still have to connect the hoses. However, I bought a couple of 100 micron filters that I am going to install. Will cut some of the length of SS lines and then re-flare the ends in a spot I can access with the truck bed on.
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Looking good!
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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Thanks, working on trying to complete the plumbing for the fuel tanks and install the 100 micron filters between the tanks and selector valve. I also wanted to run my rubber hose about 4-6 inches longer from the tanks (under the cab connection location to steel lines) on both sides to make it easier to access in the future. That resulted in have to hand cut all my stainless steel lines (about six inches) on the drivers side and an additional 4-5 inches of the 3/8 line on the passenger side by the selector valve for the filter. Will put the fuel filters in proximity to the selector valve for easy access. Cutting the lines meant I have to flare them again and I bought a flare kit (one that could handle SS lines) and did my first ever flares.
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Like that kit. Hydraulics really make it easier.
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I use mastercool too
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Ditto
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Put the fuel lines back on, as you can see I cut the tubing a bit so I can easily access the clamps with the bed on. Will make it easier to pull off the tanks if needed. Started to connect the hoses after looking every where but the right place to finally find the fuel line clamps. Will have to cut some off of the tightening screw on the 5/16" tube (a little long). Was only able to get the hoses from one side connected. Also got my air tube for the air cleaner came in today and I installed it. Bought a breather tube from the salvage yard (valve cover to air cleaner) yesterday and cleaned it with steel wool and installed it as well, along with some more of the vacuum tubing (still have a few more to connect). Feels like I'm finally getting close to bringing my truck back to life.
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8)
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It looks very nice. Great progress!
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Thanks, I plan to shorten the plug wires that are too long. Does anyone recommend some plug wire crimpers?
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The MSD ratcheting ones are nice.
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Thanks, I plan to shorten the plug wires that are too long. Does anyone recommend some plug wire crimpers?
You can do that??? Whoa. I bought two v8 sets for my six cylinder camaro and matched what I need. Great work.
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Thanks, I plan to shorten the plug wires that are too long. Does anyone recommend some plug wire crimpers?
You can do that??? Whoa. I bought two v8 sets for my six cylinder camaro and matched what I need. Great work.
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Yes you can get kits that have one end of the plug installed and the other end not so you can make them to your preferred length as well as shorten premade lightening hoses. The grommets are a pain but dielectric grease is your friend!
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Thanks for the info! The ignition (plug) wires I have should be good and I was going to try and make them fit better. I damaged and had to repair one at the distributor while taking my truck apart and some of them were much too long, but working prior to the build. Been trying to get a belt that fits my engine, changed with the new A/C system. Think I ordered the right size and I should get it tomorrow and I have been connecting the last of my fuel hoses. Tomorrow should finish up with the fuel system. Got a new clutch and 6 blade fan, I think the OEM would not be insufficient with the three blades.
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Completed my fuel lines, hose, and selector valve connections. Connected a 100 micron filter on each supply line just prior to the selector valve. Will put the cover on after I get a few tie downs on some of the hoses. I thought I had the correct belt for my A/C and discovered it to be about an inch short. Also need to get some new studs to mount my new fan and clutch. Could use my old ones if needed, prefer new studs. Has anyone used bolts instead of studs to mount the fan/clutch to water pump? I thought about it if I cannot find the right studs.
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I've used bolts, just watch the length.
Coming along nicely, inspired to get my '80 going again.
Work was interrupted by coming across a very original '67 Beetle. She's gone so now I can resume the 'heavy lifting'... 8)
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Completed my fuel lines, hose, and selector valve connections. Connected a 100 micron filter on each supply line just prior to the selector valve. Will put the cover on after I get a few tie downs on some of the hoses. I thought I had the correct belt for my A/C and discovered it to be about an inch short. Also need to get some new studs to mount my new fan and clutch. Could use my old ones if needed, prefer new studs. Has anyone used bolts instead of studs to mount the fan/clutch to water pump? I thought about it if I cannot find the right studs.
The studs are (or were, last year) easily obtained at my local NAPA just hanging on a peg. This surprised me so much I checked my local Federal and O'Reilly's and sure enough they had them in stock and on a peg as well. They must be common to many vehicles, so I'd hunt down some studs locally before expending any effort on bolts. At least if the nut comes of a stud the fan will presumably still stay in place.
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Be sure to use automotive-grade studs rather than the unclassed studs that you'll find at the typical hardware store. They should be readily available from Dorman, NAPA, etc, as mentioned.
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Thanks bd, Johnny, silverminor, and the rest. I went to Advance, Auto Zone, and O'Reilly's and none carried the right studs. Today I was by a NAPA store and checked them out and struck gold. They had a pack (actually two packs and should have got them both) that was a perfect OEM copy. The package appeared like it had been in their store since 1981 and it cost just over $5.00 with tax. It comes with the studs, lock washers, and nuts. The threads are just right. The fine threads are on the short end. If you look at the new packages I saw online, they are wrong (fine threads on the long end). I bought one of those multi combo packs at Advance and none of the three different studs would fit. Since I opened the package could not bring it back and it was $10.00 wasted. Attaching a pic of the stud package with part number on it.
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Waiting on a fan belt I ordered and its not much but I tie strapped my selector valve fuel lines and installed the cover today. I was more than it looked because I had to disconnect the vent hoses and move them into a different position for the cover to fit and the FI hoses were a little stiff to connect to the lines and even harder to get off.
Got my belt, it fit well, and I got it installed with my fan and clutch. I also worked on my A/C system wiring and should be able to start up my truck soon.
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Did a little work prior to a work stop for 2 or 3 weeks due to critical medical family issues. I installed my Grill and headlamp bezels with the Bowtie. I had a Phantom grill and decided to go back OEM. I also installed my fuel tank rock guards. Managed to get four bolts in and seems there are two outside holes not being used. Truck is a bit dusty and needs cleaning, that will wait awhile. Have to decide if I want the chrome bumper or a paint one. The original OEM factory bumper on my truck was painted white and my truck's original color was actually light blue. I bought the truck when it was 5 years old, it was a trade in at a dealership in Colorado and the original owner had a slide in camper he had removed before trade in.
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Good idea, especially for off road. Are rock guards stock or aftermarket?
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Looks super.
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The rock guards were stock on my truck when new - was part of the truck order by the original owner. They had to be cleaned up and refinished. They did save my truck, when I was in Colorado I went up some large rocks on s steep rough climb in my truck going to St Mary's Glacier.
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What color are the mirrors?
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Silver/chrome three screws, the OEM as shown in my earlier pics.
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I think the bumpers should match the mirrors
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Looks like he's already all over matching them... there's no bumpers and no mirrors ::)
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Believe I will get a new chrome front bumper.
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Been awhile since I have been able to log on to the forum. I have done a little work on my truck here and there and will start it up soon. Got the interior almost completed and finished my wiring and most of what is needed. Modified the Glove box liner for the A/C and I am waiting on some A/C duct hose to come in, ran a little short. I still have to complete my bed and put it on and a few other things. But expect to start it up soon.
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That red plays nice!
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Looks great! 8)
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Very nice!
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Love it!
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Electrical completed and connected battery. I reworked the dash pad and had to cut out the vent holes a bit to fit the A/C vent trim. I had previously installed billet trim and it seems I have been collecting many extra parts. I installed new plastic trim with the A/C ducts and it also required triming with a razor blade. Installed the dash pad with vents connected. I cranked my truck over and the air was blowing (Not A/C). I did not actually start it since I have no gas in it. However, I believe it will run OK. Close to completion. Still have to complete the bed of the truck. Been spending some time working on a 2006 Dodge Dakota front suspension and other minor problems as well.
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Looks really good!
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Nice work!
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Pulled my dash pad back out and refreshed it with some new color (same color just new coats). Then I completed the cluster, bezel, and the trim that goes on the door threshold. Before I started the rebuild I had an after market aluminum and went back to the black plastic OEM style. Some time ago I had my shifter knob stolen and when I could not find the OEM replacement, I ordered a custom made knob with the shifter pattern engraved on it. It is basically an engraved pool ball. I installed a battery tender (Charger/Maintainer).
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Nice work man, she is really looking good.
Same color as my K10 I believe.
Paint that seat belt box... ;D
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Thanks, I have to get my horn fixed and a few other things. However, it is very close to driving again.
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Looks great!
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Thanks! Ran into a problem that was a little strange and an easy fix.
Symptoms: Marker lights on front fender would not work at all, both turn signal indicators on gauge cluster stay lite (solid - no flashing), front running lights/turn signals that are located in front bumper stay on when headlights turned on (OK), front running lights/turn signals both flashed when one was turned on.
Solution/Fix: Remove the 1156 light bulbs and install 1157 light bulbs. Was relieved my wiring was not the problem because I did replace wires and sockets in the harness. Having the wrong bulb installed can cause many problems.
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Been looking for a good salvage yard bumper without luck. My bumper is an 81-82 only! My original OEM bumper that came with my truck was painted white and my rear bumper was painted a Navy grey. My trucks original color was a light (baby) blue. I got a front chrome bumper some time ago from a salvage yard but it has a few small rust spots that I can get rid of with steel wool, but they come back later. So I decided to go ahead and repaint my bumper to match my paint and also refinished the supports/brackets to mount it. Perhaps later I will get a chrome one.
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I'd like to see that on the truck! 8)
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I have rain for a couple of days. Should put it on the truck Wednesday or Thursday.
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Looks like it came out nice!
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I have rain for a couple of days. Should put it on the truck Wednesday or Thursday.
What's "rain"?
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Installed my front bumper. At first had some problems getting it lined up for all the bolts. Still have to install the wind deflector on the bottom, but that is no big deal. I have to spend a little time on another truck to make some repairs prior to getting back on my 81 K10.
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Very nice looking!
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Unique and looking sharp! 8)
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Looks sweet! 8)
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Been busy with some other things, Full suspension and steering rebuild on an 06 Dodge Dakota and some home repairs. Was trying to figure out how to repair some rounded out bolt holes in my bed that I think LineX did. Finally got some washers for a wood bed and cut out what I needed. Welded them in and still need to finish them up. Got a few pics to show the problem and my fix. I am open for any suggestions to do a better fix for the problem.
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Genius!
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Perfect
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Finished the two holes that were rounded out in my bed. Have to sand around them where the rubber (LineX) is at. Next I have to clean up under (bottom) of my bed and then I will be about ready to put it back on my truck. The two rounded out holes were a pain and took too much work for such a small task.
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The smallest of problems usually are the biggest pain....
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Been working on the bottom of my truck bed for a while off and on. Was hard work stripping it down by hand - best to media blast if able (I was not), cleaned it, metal prep, and then Por15. was no rust left on it. Will apply some undercoating over the Por15 soon. Have some minor things to fix on it and will put the bed back on my truck.
Discovered another thing about the truck doing this. The wheel well liner on the truck bed is made of aluminum.
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Don't use POR15 on anything. It eventually releases in sheets from the metal. What do you mean your wheel well is aluminum?
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The wheel well (liner that is screwed in) inside the bed cleaned up so clean it appeared to be aluminum. Looked like it anyhow. What would you use in place of Por15?
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Stick a magnet to it. It really depends on what you are going after. If it's a corrosion protection with just a black finish, chassis saver is better. Raptor liner seems to hold up good if you like that look.
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Just going for a corrosion protection, no rust!
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Got my truck running again! Initially I primed the carb with some fuel to get it to run. It would only run for a short time on the fuel I primed the carb with. I pulled off the pre filters I installed at the selector valve in case they were restricting fuel flow. No good!
I pulled the filter at the carb (it had been in since my truck was running prior to the rebuild) and it looked nasty. I used almost a whole can of carb cleaner on the carb to include quite a bit of spraying in the hole the filter goes in, then the rest in/on the rest of the carb. Then I installed the new one I bought. Appears the design changed slightly, the new filter has a valve on the end where the fuel goes in (Line Side) and the design will only allow fuel flow to the carb.
I did not prime the carb and it started right up with hesitation. It is running a little rough and I will get my timing light on it. However, I was happy the way it started after so long and after the distributor install by looking at the rocker arms (lifter # 1 & 3) movement and pointing the distributor at 1 when I installed it was perfect and quite easy to do compared to pulling the plug and observing the piston.
I cleaned the cooling system today when I got it running and tomorrow I will put in a new cooling fluid.
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I had ordered a new mech fuel pump, A/C Delco, just in case the mech fuel pump I have was bad and I an supposed to pick it up tomorrow. Guess I will hang on to it as a spare fuel pump, any idea if they have a shelf life.
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Running rough still, however I pulled it into my back yard and my transmission and brakes seem to be good with the little driving I did. I am a little worried because I have a tik that sounds like a lifter or rocker arm. I did not have any engine problems prior to my build and it it a low milage engine (crate engine) I installed new about 45,000 miles ago. Took are of the cooling system anti freeze/distilled water. The old was changed not long prior to I started the build but was still dirty when I changed the oil/filter today.
I have some family stuff to do over the next couple of weeks and will net get much if any work done in that time frame.
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Sometimes it's best to deal with other things and then come back at it with a fresh set of eyes.
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Got my bed set back onto my truck. Aligned with the bolts in but did not fasten them with nuts yet. Got a few picks. Have to complete the paint work on the sides of the bed and the tailgate yet. The front, underneath finished, and the back was painted. My lights, instrument panel, brake, and fuel system checks out OK, relief since I reworked the harnesses and installed many new wires and most of the connectors are new.
Used a hoist and a homemade bed lift made of wood, worked great. Lifted a few time to find the level spot.
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Mike, that really is a nice shade of red. It never fails to catch my attention. 8)
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Thanks bd! The bottom of the bed was very time consuming to refinish and would have completed my project long ago if I had not put off doing it. Was going to get it blasted, but did it by hand.
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What a clever lifting rig!
Looking great Mike! Keep going man!
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Thanks JP! Could not see paying the money for a store bought one when it would be rarely used and have to store. Making one our of wood allows me to reuse the wood for something else. It works great, just make sure the center board is a 2x6, a 2x4 for the center board will have too much stress and break eventually (it happened to me).
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Still moving along and making some progress. Got the hardware to bolt down my bed, was missing the washers, lock washers, and nuts for the bolts (I had). I completed the paint work on the drivers side of the bed. Actually, I still need to add a couple more coats of clear and then finish up the PS of the bed and then the tail gate. Still need to install the mirrors, install the inside door panels, tail lights, and bumper. I had to install a washer on top of the DS cab bushing to align the bed and can on the DS, it was not off much.
Will attach some picks.
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Nice, interesting paint pattern on the front fender, almost follows the line of 73-80. Clever Mike!
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Installed the filler neck on the Drivers side. Have had trouble with the rubber hose that goes from the lower pipe to the tank that has about a 45 degree bend in it. It is 1 3/8" inside diameter. The only one I found was a 1.5" I.D. and I tighten the clamp where I think it is sealed, However, I sure would like to find the right one if someone knows where to get it. I will start working on the PS of the truck bed soon and do the last few things that are needed.
Will attach some picks. Big change where it was when I started.
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Looking good Mike!
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Looks great, been getting some good tips off this thread, thanks!
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Use a hose reducer
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Mike,
As an example, they sell radiators with a smaller inlet tube than came on stock inlets, and they ship it with a hose reducer per VZ.
In your case it would be a short section of hose with a 1 3/8 ID, which will take up the space between your 1 1/2 and the fill tube.
But I'm sure you knew that... ;D
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Thanks VZ, I found hose reducers online. Appreciate the advice JP and I used it. I adjusted the distributor a little and did as you said. My truck is actually running well now. I will check the timing, however it is running pretty well and the timing must be just about right. Never-the-less, I am going to use my timing light. Have to look up the appropriate timing setting for a stock (crate) 350. It has been a while since I set the timing. It is drivable now. However, I want to finish up prior to driving it, other than in my yard and driveway to move it around when needed.
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Working on getting my spare tire mounted. I bought some rubber pads for the bed to chassis mounting but did not need them, it lined up without them. So found a use for one on one of the bolts for the tire hanger to prevent metal to metal rub. The hole in the rubber was just large enough to thread on and it cleaned the threads when I used it so I used just to clean the threads on the other bolt as well. The other bolt has a washer and is secured, no need for the rubber. Stripped, cleans and am refinished the spare tire wheel. It did not look very good and will hang it when done.
Doing a little each day to get the truck finished, my health is not good and want to get it done in case something happens it will be completed.
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Take care of your health bud, that's more important.
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Bad heart, Had a quad bypass years ago, one operation since, and it looks like problems again.
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Lot's of ways to strengthen that heart. Hopefully you are seeing a good doctor.
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Doing a little each day to get the truck finished, my health is not good and want to get it done in case something happens it will be completed.
This is a big fear for me as well....I'd hate to stick my widow with unfinished/unrollable projects of mine.
Take care of yourself Mike!
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Refinished the spare wheel and mounted the wheel on the spare tire hanger. Hopefully it was hung correctly. Feel free to let me know if not. I am getting closer to the completion. Still have quite bit of small things to take care of, some is visually obvious.
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WOW Mike! You're almost there!
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Woo! Good job Mike! :D
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I hear some say they don't like truck bed caps. I have one that had been used on my truck for most of it's life. Comes in handy when camping out (hunting) and hauling stuff you want to secure and keep out of the elements. Use to secure boat stuff in the bed when hauling the boat to the lake. Was great for my dog when traveling prior to her passing away.
I have been working on the cap to refinish it. It was not in great shape from many years of use. I took out the windows and refinished the interior and exterior to match my trucks paint work. I don't look forward to putting the window back in. Does anyone else have a truck bed cap? I have not seen anyone using them.
There was some pics of the cap in the early stages of my build when I removed it.
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The spare is spot on, make sure it's cinched down tight with the spinner nut.
I usually put a copper wire between the hole in the nut and the threaded hanger.
Nice paint on the topper. Inside and out.
I think it depends on where you live weather wise if you need one or not, and maybe some other factors like crime.
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Thanks JP! I do have the spinner nut, had to order one for the spare. Going to put another clear coat on the topper and then install the windows.
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@Mike - Referring to your signature quotation, "'Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn.' - Benjamin Franklin," therein lies the diamond truth and golden invitation to effective education and earned knowledge that collectively burgeon de facto judgment. A powerful datum that is consistently overlooked, if only because of its utter simplicity.
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Our founding fathers were brilliant!
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Yes they were! They put a system in place that was to protect us. It worked well for quite a long time. Thomas Jefferson "A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have."
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I completed my Truck Cap and only have the tailgate left and install a few things for my truck to be completed. The windows were a real pain to get back in.
I do need to install on a new carburetor because my carb is allowing fuel to drain out the bowl and I have to prime the carb every time. Then it runs OK. However, there is also a tick on the drivers side I did not have prior to starting the build. It will probably be an adjustment or a bad valve. Otherwise the engine runs very well.
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Very nice!
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Working on the last part of my truck and then a few odds and ends to be completed. I am painting my tailgate and I am making slow progress. I have to pin strip it like the rest of the truck and finish up my mural. Then the clear coat.
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8)
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Finished painting the mural! Rough - Hands not as steady as they once was. Have to put on the pin stripes and clear coat it now.
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I completed my tailgate. Sprayed the clear coat with a new spray gun. Was not used to it and got a couple spots that did not level out (a run). Will have to sand them out and buff. Will spray another coat of clear on the area if needed after sanding and finishing. Over all the clear is of high quality material (high solids) and looks good.
I am looking forward to being a 100% completed! I have the top just above the cross and the other area taped off. There is Linex on the other side and top edge, like my bed.
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Took some pictures of the Jams (sides) and bottom of the tailgate as well. Was hard to work to clean the difficult spots and crevices and paint. I kept with the paint scheme through the sides.
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Trying to hang my Tailgate. I installed the handle, latches, and trunnion. Been painting body bolts/screws and drying time for them is delaying me a bit.
I thought at first I would paint the tailgate without removing the handle because a couple people indicated it was a hassle to deal with. However, I found no difficulty or problems with removing the handle and latches and they went back on without a hitch. Painting should be done with all of it removed.
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Have a few more pic of the Tailgate Jams. I removed my masking tape and paper.
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Was hoping to mount the tailgate today. The paint just did not dry fast enough. I had to paint and clear the truck side trunnion and latch. Also been painting screws. Had to redo some because I painted the wrong ones (wrong size) earlier.
Hope to get the tailgate mounted tomorrow, if not the next day it should be done.
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Have you looked at TD Trunnion design?
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No, Have not heard of it. Just using the OEM original parts that came with the truck. Are they any better? I did completed the bed side trunnion, bumpers, and latch. I than put some moly grease on the trunnions. and installed the tailgate today.
A little rougher by yourself! However, I figured out a way that turned out to be not that difficult. Still need to finish buffing and polishing the tailgate yet. I started on it before I hung it.
PS: I did search and looked at them online. They appear to be of good quality and is something to look at later when I have completed the rest of what is needed. Thanks for the I about the TD Trunnion design product.
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Attaching a few more pics of my truck. Just need to install the mirror, rear bumper, tail lights, and interior door panels to complete it. My truck is a little dirty from sitting so long.
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Was looking at the pic and I will probably paint the bowtie on the front grill to match my truck. Guess that is the stock standard color.
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Great progress man, really shows attention to detail!
I've only seen bowties yellow or blue.
Please post a burnout pic or video when she hits the road!!!
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I figure anyway to quiet-down tailgate noise has got to be worth a try.... ;)
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Thanks Shifty and JP! I enjoy what I have learned from everyone else. I plan to one day give my truck to my grandson, no one knows that but me right now and the forum!
Do you like my cross? I airbrushed the blue and stars and hand painted the red and white stripes. I bought small cans of urethane paint from the local supplier.
Would be wonderful if one day all on the forum could get together.
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You've done great work, and your eye for details is impressive...
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I am working on freshening up my aftermarket cheap door panels that I had put on a few years prior to my build. I still have the OEM panels that was on my truck when it came off the showroom floor. I took a pick of the part numbers that are located on the inside and a full view pic of both the LH and RH.
The OEM door panels have the foam cushion around the bottom and are so much better built than the cheap plastic. Would like to find quality OEM replacements that are not the cheap plastic. I don't understand why the flexible durable vinyl plastic is no longer made. My original OEM panels are in bad condition, but they did last much longer than the trash today.
The blue was my original truck color when new. It was a light/baby blue solid color inside and out.
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I notice the PP on the OEM door panels. The new ones I have been seeing are made of ABS. The aftermarket ones I bought about 5 or 6 years ago are ABS. The ABS is hard, breaks easy, and is not at all flexible. ABS is probably cheep to use and perhaps being cheap material is why all these aftermarket door panels seem to be of ABS. Try to stay away from ABS.
Wikipedia
Polypropylene (PP), also known as polypropene, is a thermoplastic polymer and it is normally tough, durable, and flexible and is often used as an engineering plastic. It is competitive to materials such as acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) and I would prefer it to ABS if it available as an option.
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Got my door panels and arm rests colored in NAPA Red and ready to install. The were black when purchased.
They were bought about 5-7 years ago and are the cheap ABS plastic. The price was not cheap, just the quality. I remember when I received them (online order) and was disappointed in the quality. They are not nearly as good as the OEM plastic because the after market panels are very rigid and break easy. I have a small crack I put in one when it was brand new. The OEM panels were somewhat flexible and not as easy to break/crack.
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Definitely worth fixing up a good used set over the aftermarket ones
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Wish mine was worth fixing! My OEM panels are beyond help.
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How bad are they? I have fixed some that were pretty bad...
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They are dry rotted (Bad cracking and flaking). They sat for so long in my shed and were not laying flat, they warped. One has a 4-6 inch crack (tear) in it. Just don't see any hope for them. If I ever find some in a salvage yard, I will buy them.
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I have fixed them with fiberglass resin and some heat.
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Hi Mike just read through your whole story from start to end as I am part way through a rebuild of my '76 C10 and it was truly inspirational!
My truck was an import from Nevada so pretty solid with the exeption of the usual fender bottoms and a bit of rot in the bed sides. Paint was well and truly sun burned which is where I am at the moment, finished painting the cab earlier this week and got the screen and slider back in yesterday.
Doors still need stripping of paint now that the guts are out then fenders to repair then paint and being a long bed there's lots to paint!
Really must take some pictures and get them up.
Graham
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Thanks for the idea of using fiberglass Captkaos. Chevygold - best of wishes for your 76. It has been a big learning experience doing my build. Learn much from others in the forum and from mistakes and do overs along the way.
Try to do things right the first time as you work and take a second and sometimes a third look at things you are doing. Take many pictures before you tear down things to aid when you have to put it back together. Keep everything you removed and tear apart organized and where you can find it later, even the smallest parts.
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Getting started working on a new engine build for my truck in the engine section. When done, I will post installing it on this thread.
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Thanks Mike, this where I am just now, bit of a before and after shot.
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Appears to be a good base to work from!
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Thanks Mike. Nevada truck so not too much tinworm, usual bottoms of front fenders fixed with patch panels, now painted ready to fit once I've dealt with the inner wheel wells and rad support panel strip and paint, they're next to be blasted.
Graham