79 K20

[Toolmaster]

The stock axles will need to be replaced, as the stock axle has a plate made to connect axle shaft to the hub. The lock in/out hub replaces this connection. I used this type rear diff on my Zuk, to help with broken axles. Mine is a custom made from Spidertrax and uses stock Zuk front parts. Unlock all 4 and I can push it around in the shop with no problem

[1979C20]

Toolmaster, could you explain a bit more on which front parts you used?

I found this  http://www.idaho4x4.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1101 

And I can't find too much more searching google. I'm hoping it will be easier to do than this. An old family friend of ours has a machine shop in his back yard. He has CNC, grinders, CAD tools, all kinds of stuff. If I could find a lockout hub that will bolt onto my wheel flange where my stock axles bolt, Could I have our friend machine the splines onto the ends of a piece of steel rod? one end that matches my carrier splines and the other end that matches the hub splines, and the right length to go from the carrier and into the hub? If that is possible, What kind of steel could I use for my custom axle shafts? I know the guy will probably only charge me 50 a shaft for the machining if I supply the steel.

[Toolmaster]

My application will not work with what you are trying to do. It took months of searching to come up with the proper parts and fitments. And it was not a cheep fix. I had a problem with stock axle's braking and not many Suzuki Samurai parts can be found anymore. I have not researched these parts for a D60 or a 14bolt, that will be up to you. I would start with a custom off-road shop in your area. They should know what parts will interchange and what will need to be machined and what your cost will be.
If it was mine, I would spent the $$$$ getting my truck up running and safe and not worry with upgrading parts that do not need it at this time. I would start with bearings, ball joints, tie rods, brake parts and u joints the list go's on and on.
Mike Phillips has a topic on his truck http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=21491.0 , look at what he found in the rear brakes. I would hate to know a truck I was driving on the road had that hidden problem. I'm sure Mike will make sure everything on that truck is safe for him and anyone around him before he takes it out on the road or trail.
As for your family friend machine shop in his back yard, Go tell him what you want and see what he has to say.
Best of luck with your truck, and be safe about it.

[fitz]

If your flat towing put the 205 in neutral.

[1979C20]

Its not for flat towing. Its for less stress on the rear end in town.

[Irish_Alley]

think it might be cheaper to get a air locker. after the spool then getting the parts for the locker might just be cheaper.

[beastie_3]

Get a limited slip or electric locker.

[1979C20]

I've found 2 cheap ways to make this happen. I can find a hub with a pattern that matches my axle flange and have the shafts made with splines on both ends. An external locking hub like this. But one that has 8 bolt pattern that will match my axle flange mounting surface or can be modified to match it.



Or, I could make an Axle shaft spacer, that goes between the axle shaft flange and the drum assembly, and spaces it enough that it disconnects from the carrier. And attach it using longer bolts. Just pull the axle shaft out, slide the spacer onto it, then bolt it back onto the drum assy. I think I'd rather do the hub idea, because it would be a lot quicker and a whole lot easier to disengage the axle shaft from the tire. Here is my idea on ms paint, its the best way to get my idea across. This took me 4 hours to finish because of my OCD. Obvously, it is very basic and not to scale.

[1979C20]

I think im going to attempt the hub route. What material should I make the axle shaft out of? If I went to pick a part and bought axle shafts do you think I could have our family friend maching the mounting flange off and spline the end?

[Engineer]

If you are using a 14-bolt FF rear, and want to graft lockouts onto it, look for a set of lockouts from a Dodge W250~W350. These had an 8-bolt flange, although I don't know if they are the same bolt circle as the 14-bolt's hub, it would give you a place to start.

Also you can get these aftermarket with either a 30, or 35 spline.

[1979C20]

I'm not sure if its a 14b or a dana 60 but I'm pretty sure its a full floater. I'm looking into the pattern for the dodge front hubs. Thanks.

[1979C20]

Do the fenders off a c50 bolt right up to a normal cab? This looks freakin MEAN! 

[VileZambonie]

Its not for flat towing. Its for less stress on the rear end in town.

  Am I the only one who is not following what you are trying to accomplish here?

[thirsty]

Its not for flat towing. Its for less stress on the rear end in town.

  Am I the only one who is not following what you are trying to accomplish here?

This reminds me of something that my dad used to tell me. "GM spent a lot more money on research and development than the guys that write the articles in those magazines that you read." He also used to tell me "Before you go cobbing that perfectly good truck up with aftermarket stuff make sure that is what you want because it will cost that much again to undo your upgrades that didn't work out like you expected.". I rarely listened when I was younger but have since learned that sometimes modifications take away from what you started with.

I didn't understand the need for this either but figured that you must be sold on the idea. Make sure that it will move your project forward instead of set it back. Do your homework on this before you spend the money.

[paniolo]

Its not for flat towing. Its for less stress on the rear end in town.

  Am I the only one who is not following what you are trying to accomplish here?

I thought he was trying to figure a way to run a full spool on the street ... by unlocking one of the rear hubs.  Personally I would go with something like a Detroit ... or an ARB if I was flush.