Author Topic: So it isnt my fuel pump TROUBLE CODES ADDED 4/19 VIDEO ADDED 4/16 (Read 28783 times)

87ChevyR10 · « **Reply #30 on:** April 25, 2013, 05:40:18 PM »

I just changed the distributor cap on it, plugged everything back up and now im getting a code 34, and it wont stay fired. I'm 99% i plugged everything in the right spots, as i did them 1 by 1. *sigh* stop the water man

VileZambonie · « **Reply #31 on:** April 25, 2013, 05:57:12 PM »

OK so stop changing parts! You're making it worse for yourself and you may be creating more problems while you waste $$. At this point you could have paid someone to fix it I'm sure. Now you need to take a systematic approach and I'm happy to help you walk through fixing this sucker but you need to follow the directions carefully!

Check the electrical connector/connection and related wiring. Check the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor and ensure you have vacuum there/ everything is hooked up. Now do you have a meter or no?

87ChevyR10 · « **Reply #32 on:** April 25, 2013, 06:06:13 PM »

Quote from: VileZambonie on April 25, 2013, 05:57:12 PM

OK so stop changing parts! You're making it worse for yourself and you may be creating more problems while you waste $$. At this point you could have paid someone to fix it I'm sure. Now you need to take a systematic approach and I'm happy to help you walk through fixing this sucker but you need to follow the directions carefully!

Check the electrical connector/connection and related wiring. Check the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor and ensure you have vacuum there/ everything is hooked up. Now do you have a meter or no?

Everythings hooked up, tight connection, the code 34 is dead because in my haste of tryna beat the sunset, i forgot to plug the map sensor back in. I checked everything back thru 1 last time, no bueno. Yes, i got a meter ready.

VileZambonie · « **Reply #33 on:** April 25, 2013, 06:22:32 PM »

OK clear the codes again and start it up. Tell us how it runs in detail and if it sets any codes.

87ChevyR10 · « **Reply #34 on:** April 25, 2013, 08:30:17 PM »

Since changing the distributor cap(which ive had since my tuneup i did a couple mos ago, i SWEAR i didnt JUST buy it) out, minor corrosion on the inside, so i plugged it all back up. Truck will start and cut right back off. So whatever is doing that is related to the change in dist. cap. Gotta be installer error. *cough cough*

No codes. Just 12.

I incl. a pic of the firing order on the intake. I think the manual slated the order like a playoff bracket - 1/8(l/r front 2), 2/7, 3/6, 4/5.

Irish_Alley · « **Reply #35 on:** April 26, 2013, 04:12:45 PM »

front 2?

87ChevyR10 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 26, 2013, 10:07:41 PM »

IA - I'm gonna pull all the wires in the morning and recheck everything. i used ms paint to line up the firing order on the dist. cap. just lmk if everything looks good the way its laid out. ima get off at 830 so its gon be the 1st thing i do soon as i get a green light.

VileZambonie · « **Reply #37 on:** April 27, 2013, 09:42:11 AM »

Yes the firing order is listed correct. Let us know how you make out.

87ChevyR10 · « **Reply #38 on:** April 27, 2013, 10:49:17 AM »

Fixed plug arrangement, 2 were switched, checked after rearranging twice, everything good. Hit AZ this morning and picked up a new pcv valve and iac valve because i was gonna clean that one and reinstall it, well, it looked like garbage. So i bought a new one, put it in. Truck idle back to normal, straight idle when running, but same issue when driving. Hesitation, little acceleration. Not road ready by any stretch.

i keep seeing the truck has to drive for 30 mins for the ecm to register and regulate fuel/air levels once replacing certain components that i have replaced, but, how can i let the ecm do that if i cant even drive it on the street with it acting like that.

Aight VZ, where do we go from here, i done broke the multimeter out the pack. *sigh* I'm ready.

I know one thing, when i do get the problem figured out and straightened up, with the new dist cap/fuel pump/filter/pcv valve/egr valve/map sensor/etc, this guy should run a1. heck, the wireset/plugs/oil/oil filter all have less than 700 mi on them as well.

They say troubles come and so they shall pass, and they also say before it gets better its gonna get worse. I'm hoping for the 1st one. If need be, i can upload a video of the idle, just for measure. lmk, but im ready with the multimeter to go testing.

VileZambonie · « **Reply #39 on:** April 27, 2013, 01:37:08 PM »

So what is it doing now? Hesitating? Stalling?lack of power? Did any codes come back after you fixed your crossfire? Check your fuel line coming off of the tank and ensure it is not kinked.

87ChevyR10 · « **Reply #40 on:** April 29, 2013, 09:00:40 AM »

Quote from: VileZambonie on April 27, 2013, 01:37:08 PM

So what is it doing now? Hesitating? Stalling?lack of power? Did any codes come back after you fixed your crossfire? Check your fuel line coming off of the tank and ensure it is not kinked.

Nah, no codes. We're back to square one with it idling just fine, but the hesitation and stalling once thrown in drive and attempting a pass around the parking lot. I'm about to hit the search function on testing the fuel relay, honestly, its only 12.99 for the duralast, so im probably gonna replace it just to be safe. But i just got off the phone with one of the highest rated mobile mechanics in savannah, he told me if im going thru fuel pumps like i have, then it could be an issue with the plug on the pump. He said i should've gotten a new plug with the pump, shouldve been incl. i mean, but it wasn't. Not on any of the airtex nor the new ac delco i just put in. So idk. That does make sense, and would be worth testing. I guess im gonna have to google how to test that too. Bout to go check the fuel lines and ill report back in a few.

VileZambonie · « **Reply #41 on:** April 29, 2013, 05:22:50 PM »

STOP CHANGING PARTS!!!!!

It's not the fuel pump relay. Did you check for kinked fuel lines or not? By plug are you referring to a fuel pump pulsator? Your truck shouldn't have one. Invest in some tools instead of all of these parts you don't need. Pick up a vacuum gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. If you have pinching pliers pinch off the fuel return hose and see what happens.

gildardo01 · « **Reply #42 on:** April 29, 2013, 06:37:04 PM »

Quote from: VileZambonie on April 29, 2013, 05:22:50 PM

STOP CHANGING PARTS!!!!! It's not the fuel pump relay. Did you check for kinked fuel lines or not? By plug are you referring to a fuel pump pulsator? Your truck shouldn't have one. Invest in some tools instead of all of these parts you don't need. Pick up a vacuum gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. If you have pinching pliers pinch off the fuel return hose and see what happens.

it´ll be kinda funny that the problem causing all this is just a simple thing as a kinked line, and all the new parts were pretty much for nothing... well you have the guarantee that their new and they aren´t going to fail any time soon...

87ChevyR10 · « **Reply #43 on:** April 29, 2013, 10:16:47 PM »

Quote from: VileZambonie on April 29, 2013, 05:22:50 PM

STOP CHANGING PARTS!!!!! It's not the fuel pump relay. Did you check for kinked fuel lines or not? By plug are you referring to a fuel pump pulsator? Your truck shouldn't have one. Invest in some tools instead of all of these parts you don't need. Pick up a vacuum gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. If you have pinching pliers pinch off the fuel return hose and see what happens.

Lines are fine, no kinking. Those tools will be the next things i buy.

New parts werent exactly for nothing i'd say, some of them been on the truck it looks like since it rolled off the line. I wish it were just a kinked line.

I got one of the best rated mobile mechanics in the Savannah area coming out in the morning to try to diagnose whats going on. Hopefully ill know something tomorrow, or have it fixed outright.

87ChevyR10 · « **Reply #44 on:** May 01, 2013, 09:44:25 AM »

Well, the mobile mechanic came out, checked over the fuel system and all things related, everything seemed fine to him. Said it wasnt fuel related, said the issue seemed like timing. Said he forgot his timing light and wasnt real happy. So in the meantime he used a distributor wrench and loosened the bolt up to something, i didnt really see, but, he moved the distributor and it would run ever so slightly better, but, not much. He had a very expensive diagnostic scanner with him, said something about disengaging the mode which sets the timing to set it manually. but, idk what that would do. doesnt the ecm control the timing and set it accordingly? so if someone was to set it manually, wouldnt the ecm just roll right over that and reset it anyway?

I could shoot a lil video running thru the parking lot so one could hear the way it runs when i jump on the gas. and though i thought the idle was solved, it really isnt. This truck never dropped idle from a cold start. It'll do that now, i spray the area in/around the injectors and after a lil bit it'll straighten up.

That's about all the info i can give right now. I'm thinking honestly about using my state farm insurance to get it towed. Drive it out the complex, park it, call them then a tow truck and have them tow it to a shop. I've got towing coverage on my insurance, might as well use it.

idk, im officially at a loss.

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