86 C10 305 header options?

[SquareBody86]

Something that's been on the list for some time now is exhaust work, whats on Ol' Rusty right now is completely roached out and since most of it is held up with chicken wire it needs to get done soon. Since I'm going to have to have the whole exhaust redone anyways I figured then would be a good time to do myself a favor and get some decent headers on, nothing super expensive I just need something that'll help my 305 breath and generally run better.

When I get it done at the local muffler shop I plan on having 3" exhaust put on, from what I've read 3" seems pretty good for a 305 and please don't kill me but I'm going to have stacks done with a good set of flowmasters. They will be true dual stacks and yes I know stacks on a gasser is like is equivalent to lightly a bible on fire around here but I plan on swapping in a 88-93 6.2l Detroit later on down the road and I planned on having stacks for that anyways so doing it now will save me a bit of bother later on down the road.

But yes any help/input on this is greatly appreciated.

[Stewart G Griffin]

3" might be too big for a 305 and the performance might actually go down.

My main concerns with headers for a street driven vehicle are: 1)will they last,  2) will the bolts stay tight, 3) It's now going to be much hotter underhood, how are you going to handle that?, 4) how will the plug wires, and other accessories be routed?

Some of the reasons why i haven't made the switch to headers yet.

[Rattler12]

Neither have I........mainly cause they are noisier than the cast iron manifolds along with all the reasons you've given

[SquareBody86]

I guess that makes sense, I could see long headers causing the heat issue, would shorty's or hugger headers be better when it comes to heat? when it comes to side would 2.5" be better then?

[Stewart G Griffin]

Don't really have time to get into it now.

Why did you originally want 3" ?

And i'm not saying headers won't work on the street, because there are plenty of folks running them.   i had a car with headers and it worked ok, but they were already installed when i bought the car.

[Stewart G Griffin]

Neither have I........mainly cause they are noisier than the cast iron manifolds along with all the reasons you've given

That too---they are louder.  Of course some people love that.

[SquareBody86]

Was originally thinking 3" cause when I was reading around to see what is a good size for a 305 3" was one I saw come up.

[Stewart G Griffin]

i'm not saying DON'T go 3", thought there was another reason besides you read somewhere.

Don't have time to get into it now, maybe this weekend.  But i'm not an exhaust expert either.

[SquareBody86]

ah its alright man we're all busy nowadays

[Irish_Alley]

not exhaust expert but i do like to do math or try.

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=32901.msg279542#msg279542

maybe close to 120-130 hp from the factory.

so that 130/hp only needs 2" single or 1.85" dual
if you go too big you lose savaging effect of the exhaust which helps pull the exhaust from the cylinder for the engines next cycle

but this might help you better
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-9903-305-chevy-small-block-engine-build/

[SquareBody86]

Your a bit low there, it's actually around 150-165hp, the LG4's range from 150-170hp but I'm fairly sure this one is around 1985 and back the LG4's got a boost to 165hp in 85. Plus the edelbrock 1411 gives it a bit as well.

[teamcurtis]

i agree that 3" would be overkill for a 305, unless you are REALLY opened up the breathing on the other end and are looking to make high RMP horsepower

If you're going to swap to a 6.2  down the road, i would just wait on doing anything too fancy on the exhaust now. i cant imagine what will work well on your 305 is gonna be close to what will work on a 372... youll likely end up scrapping the whole thing anyway

[DustyRusty]

I agree with teamcurtis.  Don't get too fancy.  Here's what I'd do and have done:  Find a set of long-tube headers (4-into-one, or 4-into-2-into-1; stay away from shorties or block huggers unless you find them inexpensively), use 2" exhaust pipe for your exhaust, turbo mufflers which are low cost, and have your exhaust turn down and dump either right before or right after the rear axle.

Muffler shops usually charge by the foot for the pipe and by the number of bends plus labor.  The above-described system should be very cost effective.  By keeping it simple, you should still get a good and effective exhaust system at a good price.  Save your coin for an upgraded system for your 6.2 swap.

If you think the slight increase in noise from the headers is objectionable and there is too much heat from the headers, you can wrap the headers with that high-dollar header wrap and use ceramic spark plug boots to protect your plug wiring.

Just my $.02 worth.

Rusty

[SquareBody86]

I agree with teamcurtis.  Don't get too fancy.  Here's what I'd do and have done:  Find a set of long-tube headers (4-into-one, or 4-into-2-into-1; stay away from shorties or block huggers unless you find them inexpensively), use 2" exhaust pipe for your exhaust, turbo mufflers which are low cost, and have your exhaust turn down and dump either right before or right after the rear axle.

Muffler shops usually charge by the foot for the pipe and by the number of bends plus labor.  The above-described system should be very cost effective.  By keeping it simple, you should still get a good and effective exhaust system at a good price.  Save your coin for an upgraded system for your 6.2 swap.

If you think the slight increase in noise from the headers is objectionable and there is too much heat from the headers, you can wrap the headers with that high-dollar header wrap and use ceramic spark plug boots to protect your plug wiring.

Just my $.02 worth.

Rusty

Thanks a bunch Rusty, I'm fine and dandy with the extra noise of the headers as the improved airflow will be well worth with a bit more growl, and as you said I could always just get some header wrap if it gets to toasty under there. Makes sense to wait till the 6.2 swap to get fancy with it, I was thinking o doing something like this here when I get the stacks done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4MuRQzl2Zc&index=18&list=PLRZWh2Hd5ui02e0nE9Zle7MYWbI-ApfIP

[DustyRusty]

I like the look of those stacks but for appearance I'd want the mufflers under the bed.