Coolant Overflow Tank Options.

[Spool]

Hey guys,
73' C20 here.

I'm looking to buy an overflow tank, but I'm not too excited about all the plastic out there.
Does anyone have something that looks a bit nicer on their truck?

I've come back to my truck after a year, and finding that my truck is now running at 190f, not 180f
and climbs to 210f, not 205f after I kill the engine. The culprit seems to be that I'm leaking coolant.
I'm thinking it might be my heater core, as it's not the radiator itself or the thermostat.
Yet, this is the first time I'm mixing water into my coolant myself... 50/50, but just worth noting.

Regardless, I'm working on cleaning up the engine bay, and I've never had an overflow tank- now is the time.
I just think the plastic overflow tanks are an eye-sore.

I've found these stainless steel ones:
https://www.autozone.com/heating-and-cooling/radiator-overflow-can/built-tough-performance-radiator-overflow-tank-18oz/936693_0_0

Does anyone agree or have any experience with this?
How much volume should one have in their overflow? 18oz, 30oz, more?

[JohnnyPopper]

Find out the volume of a stock ugly plastic jug and try to match it.

Not unusual for the temp to rise upon stopping the engine. You have gone from cooling to a static state. The heat has to dissipate ergo the temp rise.

Those stainless units do look cool, Thanks for the tip!

[Spool]

Good idea, Johnny.
I'll do some digging online and in the service manual to see what volume the stock overflow was.

You're absolutely right about the temp rising after the engine stops- but, it just seems to be a little more than usual.
Fair, it's only 5degrees higher than normal, yet I've always had a keen eye on that temp gauge for years now, so I can 'sense/feel' that something isn't 100% right.
Especially cause it's chilly out at the moment... Who knows, could be the gauge itself.

I'll keep a closer eye on it, and replace the heater core soon as well.

[Spool]

Alright- I'm back with details.

I've learned the overflow tank is referred to as 'Coolant Recovery Tank' in the service manual and a 'Puke Tank' online.
It appears the original plastic recovery tank was 2 quarts (64 ounces.)

I'm eyeballing this 50-ounce stainless steel tank at the moment, but will shop more to be sure:
https://www.amazon.com/SUPERFASTRACING-Radiator-Polished-Stainless-Universal/dp/B07TBQZBP4/ref=psdc_15725431_t2_B0742D9TXT?th=1

The question now is, how does one know where their cold and hot fill lines are?

[Spool]

Check this one out from Brothers: Pretty cool...
https://www.brotherstrucks.com/1947-87-CHEVY_GMC-EXTERNAL-TRANSMISSION-COOLER/productinfo/EXTC316/

[Powerhouse]

I checked out that Bothers link & that is a nice piece.  Just yesterday I was looking @ my puke tank and noticed it was cracked & brownish discolored plastic & looking spent.  The fins on this piece look like they might help dissipate the heat?

I'm going to give it a try.

Thanks for the idea Spool.

[Powerhouse]

Although I did notice the volume in oz's is not listed in the ad. The 16 x 3 dimensions appear to include the fins, so I am wondering if it is around 48 ozs, or possibly less.  I will try to contact Brothers for an answer.

[Spool]

Hey Powerhouse.
Very good point on the dimensions including the fins...

HOWEVER, my buddy just pointed out that the link to Brothers is not a puke tank, but a transmission cooler which serves a different function?
It clearly states transmission cooler, but I had thought it was just another reference name.

Perhaps, I'll fall back on something similar to the original stainless steel puke tank I shared.
But, I'll certainly be looking for 3'' by 16'' in size.

For me, I see a lot of the puke tanks online have a not so pretty weld for the mount to the tank.
So, this is something that will weigh heavy in my decision to purchase.

[Spool]

Update:
Purchases I've made. I'll be back after installation with any tips or errors.

Overflow Tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QF2148F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1/4 (6mm) hose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TNSHN6P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[JohnnyPopper]

Nice looking unit!

Seems like the tubing is quite small, but I guess it doesn't need to be the huge volume tube like the factory.

[Spool]

The specs said 1/4inch - think that's too small?
I purchased as that seemed to be the standard amongst others too.

And I got 10 feet of tubing so I can use some when I get to finishing my washer pump install.

[JohnnyPopper]

I guess not, just used to seeing the Gunther stock tubing 

1/4 is pry enough volume when you think about it.

Your washer tubing uses two sizes as I recall, having just replaced my wiper motor. Larger diameter between the pump and tank.

[Spool]

The tank arrived.
I'm not that impressed. You get what you pay for.
Sure, it looks nice from a distance, but if you're looking to go to SEMA, this puke tank isn't it.

The mounts are specific for an aftermarket rad too.
So, I'll head to Home Depot and rig my own set up to avoid it being at an awkward angle.

I'll post pics when I finish.

[JohnnyPopper]

Sorry to hear that, I hate it when the pics are deceiving. Look forward to your professional installation.   

[Spool]

Tank is installed and it sells much better inside the engine bay as opposed to in your hands and inches from your face.
So, it's passable.

As I mentioned the mounting hardware was specific to an aftermarket rad, so I ended up buying these 1 inch corner braces from home depot.
I cut one of them in half, giving myself  (one) 1 inch brace and (one) 1/2 inch brace, because I noticed the front side of the engine bay is not 90degrees to the ground but more acute. So I used the 1/2 brace up top and the inch brace on the bottom allowing the tank to appear straight.

Also, by mounting it like this, the overflow outlet just so happens to clear the truck itself to spill straight to the ground.

I've attached pictures below. I'm pretty happy with it.