73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks > Electrical
No Power to Switch
Rcf:
It seemed strange to me that I started by '83 K30 and backed it out of the garage to raise the bed in order to work on the wiring to the rear lights. With the 4-way flashers working I was looking for the wires in use. Couldn't find any, I went to the cab and discovered the 4-ways weren't working. Too hot I guess. To replace the flasher, it was easier to remove the plug-in wire directly below the flasher space. After replacing the flasher and plugging in the wire I removed, I tried the flashers. Nothing. Then I turned to switch to ON to try the turn signals and had no power - the alternator light did not light. Had headlights and horn, but nothing else. It got dark and I had to quit. Do you all have any ideas?
Rcf:
Well, for an update. On another issue sometime back, a knowledgeable member called "bd" gave me some insight about troubleshooting wiring issues. I followed what he said to the point where it seemed the switch was the culprit. So, I went to work getting access to the switch. I had the steering wheel lowered onto the seat where I could get to the switch; and, for some reason, I reached over and turned the key on. When I did, there was power. While I was happy there was power, it is troubling not to know why I didn't have it before.
Anyway, I got everything put back together and there is still power. And I found a broken wire to the right rear brake light, which started this whole thing.
Rcf:
So, this story gets better. After doing some work on the truck, I tried to start it. No Power. Actually, that was good. I thought the switch could be bad, and this way it is still in the garage and not out somewhere stranded.
Anyway, I installed a new switch. It worked fine. Got that behind me and it shouldn't leave me stranded somewhere - - I thought. This morning I was checking out the plow lights and I turned the switch to ON in order to test turn signals only to find no power. Still had lights, but nothing through the switch. I know the switch is new and the plugs are secure. Any ideas on what else may be wrong? Would appreciate any insight. Thanks.
bd:
The factory wiring manual is your friend: 1983 Wiring Manual
Begin by giving the fusible links at the starter solenoid and the firewall junction block a firm tug. If any of the fusible links stretch or separate, replace them according to How to make a Fusible Link. At the same time, make sure the fusible links show no signs of heat damage and that the studs to which they are connected are suitably tight. Next, when the symptoms occur, using an incandescent test light clipped to a good clean ground, switch the ignition ON and probe both sides of every fuse and every power tap in the fusebox (do not move or disturb any wiring under the dash as you perform this step). Record exactly what is and what is not hot (12 volts) and post the results.
Rcf:
Thank you, bd, for your input and direction. For me, perhaps one of the biggest obstacles will be what a fusible link is. I have examined most of the wiring on this truck; except, of course, for a lot of the under-dash wiring that is largely hidden from view. Fuses in the fuse panel are a different matter entirely.
From the manual there are two wires bringing power to the switch. The best I can tell terminals BAT 2 and BAT3 receive power. Wire 3 Red 2E (2E) is connected to BAT 2 and wire 3 Red 2C (2C) is connected to BAT 3. Both 2E and 2C originated at a splice of wires 3 Red 2B (2B) and 3 Red 2A (2A). 2B terminates at the fuse block at STOP HAZ. 2A terminates (or actually originates) at the firewall bulkhead connector at location 2. Location 2 changes to 2E on the other side of the firewall.
Based on all of this, it would seem:
1- Power comes from the battery through 2A
2- 2A splices with 2B, 2C and 2E
3- 2B goes to the fuse block
4- 2C goes to the switch at BAT 2
5- 2E goes to the switch at BAT 3
I am going to do some circuit testing and let you know what I find. I really am at a loss about fusible links. Even though I am quite a novice, I do know they are to protect over current. The issue for me is that I have not found any on this 1983 K30. We cannot overlook the possibility that I am not aware of what I am looking at.
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