1988 suburban radio/speakers replacement

[MuddiGGEr25]

I know this has been covered before, but after searching (google sucks btw) most people give up looking for a OEM style radio that can install in the factory location, but i seem to have found one that is decent, but im still trying to find a model with 4 channels instead of 2....

http://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/PLR14MPF/In-Dash-AMFM-MPX-MP3-Shaft-Style-Dual-Knob-Radio-wUSBSD-Card

Their vendor is out of stock but other online places have it for $45-$80 including shipping/tax

It says -4-8 Ohms at 80WX2 (160W Max) so im assuming its around 40RMSx2 assuming RMS of 1/2 of peak, i highly doubt its 80W RMS

2GB of storage for music and a usb port is good enough, and i can get a bluetooth to FM adapter anywhere, or I have 3 FM transmitters i could use.

If anyone knows of a radio similar to this that has 4 channels (not those retro ones that cost upwards of $250) i could install a 4 channel amp behind the dash.

The only reason i want to go this route is because i want to keep this truck looking as original as humanly possible. if i can find the correct color door and pop the dents out i will be doing that too. it has extremely minimal frame rust and has never seen salt/sand/snow until last week when i got it running again.


If no one can find a reasonably priced 4 channel unit, ill just deal with L/R sound, its not the end of the world.


I also found these speakers for the rear: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boss-4-x10-3-Way-400W-Full-Range-Chaos-Exxtreme-Car-Audio-Speakers-CH4330-/350946790746?hash=item51b60f0d5a:g:z5oAAOSwuzRXfnsG

I know they might be a bit overkill (200W each) but they have good reviews overall, and im still looking for a set of decent 3.5" ones for the front 2 pods.

[VileZambonie]

Why does Google suck?  Does you dash have the large opening? There are lots of options including modifying a factory radio

https://www.retromanufacturing.com/

http://www.classicparts.com/1973-87-Stereo-System-Chevy-USA-2/productinfo/69-773C/#

http://www.classicindustries.com/shop/1987/truck/parts/audio-security/radio---stereos-cd-players/

[MuddiGGEr25]

holy cow, im not looking to spend that kind of dough,(thats half of the cost of the truck) i just want to keep the original look but have a functioning radio.

I might just have to buy a 4 channel amp, and hide it under the dash with a RCA to 3.5mm (headphones) cable to connect to my phone. ill just have to go without AM/FM for a while lol

and trying to google for radio options within the forums was being a pain

[VileZambonie]

Just toss a jambox in there and pair it to the Bluetooth on your phone, leave the stock radio for looks.

[MuddiGGEr25]

lol im actually using a bluetooth speaker right now that my wife got me for christmas last year >.<  but it would be nice to have a radio that functions, in the oem spot without having to cut in something, but i was also considering some of the newer GM stock radios as they arent too horrible. i havent decided yet.


I think im looking at a cheap head unit probably that pyle one above, and a 5 channel amp, and just tie the front right and rear right together and front left and rear left together,

even for a 5 channel amp that can put out 200Wx4 at 4Ohms + 750W sub at 4Ohms is only $125-$150

(yes we like to jam out) plus I can get really good quality audio running only 25-30% of rated capacity)

total cost would still be less than one of those "retro audio" units and i would have way more power

$125 for amp
$30-$60 for dual knob head unit

[Captkaos]

We sell retrosound radios.  I have some that are discontinued.   I have one that has a small scratch that is cheap too.  Email me if interested webmaster@73-87chevytrucks.com

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

[MuddiGGEr25]

i sent you an email chris

[Captkaos]

received it...

[MuddiGGEr25]

the lag is real haha

[MuddiGGEr25]

Ok so now i have a new question we picked up a 86 K5 blazer a week or so ago, it had a fully functional AM/FM/tape kenwood head unit, so of course i pulled it and wired it up in the suburban so to keep the "OEM" look because the K5 will be getting waterproof marine speakers and head unit as it will be seeing alot of mud and water at events.  now i just rewired it the exact same as it was the k5, which was 4 + wires, and the rear speakers share a - wire and the front speakers share a - wire. it works fine, and i have fade and balance but the new rear speakers are https://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/PLG41.3/4-x-10-300-Watt-Three-Way-Speakers  which are rated at 150W RMS each at 4ohm, and responsive to 60-hz, I already put them in a basic enclosure and powered them with a stereo reciever in the house rated at 75W RMS @4ohm,  50W at 8ohm, they sounded excellent, nice lows, and very loud. now fast forward to putting them in the truck, the head unit is "MAYBE" providing 10-15W RMS and clipping when i crank them very high.


My solution is this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crunch-PDX-1000-4-1000-Watt-4-Channel-Class-A-B-Car-Amplifier-Car-Audio-Amp-/361577515759

It appears to be a quality entry level amp,overall good opinions, its rated for 250Wx2 channels and @ 4Ohm so i can turn the amp down to maybe 60% and get roughly the 150W the speakers are rated for.


MAX Power Rating (14.4V):
4 ohms: 125 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 250 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 500 watts x 2 chan.
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 125 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 250 watts x 2 chan.

Now how should i wire up the amp?  should i use the speaker outputs to the hilevel input ( this is also how i usually run my subs so i dont have to drill and run all new wires and deal with wrapping them to the frame, and most OEM stereos dont have pre-amp outs)
 
and will the amplifier be ok with the shared ground input? or should i get one of those cheesy hilevel to RCA conveters off fleabay too? ive never used one so i dont know how or if it will affect sound quality.

PS if it makes any difference ill be slipping this amp up under the center air vent since there is a lot of wasted space there and wire runs will be minimal.

EDIT: grammar and specs