73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks > Electrical
Probably a Dumb Question
gmcowner22:
When I bought the truck the PO said the wipers didn't work then and that the switch was bad that I could "hot wire" it to make it work ::). So as far as I know the wipers may not even work, I had to pull the column apart to change out the ignition lock cylinder and the turn signal switch so I figure while I was in there Id go ahead and replace the multifunction switch at the same time. Reason I gotta tear it apart again is I guess when I reassembled the column that little arm that activates the turn signal switch is in the wrong place (I do that when I rush >:( )
Also when I bought the truck the turn signals werent working either, figured a blown bulb, sure enough the bulbs were, still no signals, did some research and replaced the flasher, still no signals got to poking around the colum and noticed a broken wire on the signal switch so I replaced it still no signals so Im hoping it may just be a couple blown fuses but whats weird is I have Hazard Flashers.
Once it stops raining long enough Ill plug the silly wipoer switch in properly and check the fuses and see what's what.
bd:
The vehicle uses two flashers. The flashers are interchangeable. The hazard flasher is located in the "Convenience Center" located above the accelerator pedal. The turn signal flasher is located in the fuse box. The two flashers receive power from different fuses. The hazard flasher receives 12 volts continuously, whereas the turn signal flasher receives power only when the ignition is switched ON. Verify that both flashers are present and that the 15-amp TURN/BU fuse is installed and good, then try switching the two flashers and recheck the turn signal function. If the problem follows the flasher or disappears, replace both flashers using heavy-duty electronic flashers that employ internal relays.
FYI - On rare occasions, a fuse can visually appear to be good with its element intact when, in fact, the element is fatigue-cracked, severing continuity. Another potential issue arises when the fusebox terminals are oxidized such that the fuse doesn't make good electrical contact. The best way to test both issues in one step is to probe both fusebox terminals for the fuse using an incandescent test light to determine whether power transfers through the fuse and its connections. This approach also verifies that power is reaching the fuse from the power source. 8)
bd:
Incidentally, to ensure that the wiper delay module isn't the root cause of the wipers inop, you can bypass the delay module by plugging the wiper switch cable directly into the dash harness. The switch and harness connectors are keyed and wired similarly and will directly mate. Also, verify that the black wire on the dash harness side of the wiper switch cable plug is properly grounded or the wipers won't work. That black wire should ground to the busbar fastened to the park brake pedal assembly at the left kick panel.
gmcowner22:
ok Ill check those if plugging the switch in doesn't work. at this point all I really have to go on is a shady PO's story of them not working because of the switch. I'm really hoping that's all it is. As for the flashers I goofed and didnt replace both of the dang flashers with the heavy duty units just replaced one, Im also hoping by checking the fuses it will hopefully help me get the dang windows working, Ive already been doing research on that too if the fuses check out Ill check the switch and the wiring at the door. *SIGHS* forgot how much fun it was to diagnos someone elses goof ups
bd:
The power windows rely on a 30-amp circuit breaker rather than a fuse. There is a good reference on power window wiring in the Chassis Electrical and Ignition section of the Technical Forum on this site. Don't neglect the fusible links and their connections to the starter solenoid and firewall junction block.
Diagnosing other people's follies is a time waster for sure. It becomes even more fun after you turn 70. :(
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