79 chevy lifter adjustment need help one wont stay tight.

[VTK5Mudder]

I need to adj. the lifters on my 79 chevy 350and I'm not really good at this [ tried it years ago on a 327] my son adj. them when he replaced the head gaskets and think there ok but one it doesn't seem to stay tight . he has adj. it twice and it loosen up again he thinks its the nut that's not stay tight and need to get another .but I'm not sure if hes adj. the rest of them right there not making any noise but think hes just tighten them down till they stop making noise . I had a guy one time do the adj. for me and he over tighten all of them . I'm trying to get this truck up and going so I can play in the mud and a little trail riding . do you think all I need to do is get another nut for the lifter that's making the noise or is there more to it ? thanks for any help on my problem .

[blazer74]

Check the rocker  stud and see if it's pulling out of the head, they are pressed in.

Cracked rocker arm, bad lifter also.

Try a new nut and rocker if u find nothing else to start with.

[VTK5Mudder]

ok ill give that a check just as soon as are weather turns good again up here in vt we are back to snow but its suppose to turn good again in a day or 2 . if the stud is loose what do I do ? I had a guy say something about that to me in the fall and he said to take a hammer to it . it sounded a little strange but ? thanks

[gunrac]

They sell over sized replacement studs. You will need a couple specialty tools. If your only talking 1 stud, your best bet may be to talk to a local machine shop that does head work. You may get it done cheaper then the tools you will need to buy.

[blazer74]

If u do find that a stud has moved its for a reason.

You can tap it back down but It might or might not stay.

The stud can also be pinned to hold it.

[VTK5Mudder]

ok thanks guys , as soon as the weather straightens out up here in vt ill pull the valve cover and check the stud. if its just the nut anybody know where I can buy just one ? parts stores say no to one at least the to I have called . also anybody tell me the way to adjust them the right way ? ive never done it before and have no way to get the truck to a garage . ive heard some guys just tighten them down till there snug and no play in the rod ? thanks again and lets hope for nicer weather soon ! I'm going crazy not tinkering on my trucks.

[gunrac]

ok thanks guys , as soon as the weather straightens out up here in vt ill pull the valve cover and check the stud. if its just the nut anybody know where I can buy just one ? parts stores say no to one at least the to I have called . also anybody tell me the way to adjust them the right way ? ive never done it before and have no way to get the truck to a garage . ive heard some guys just tighten them down till there snug and no play in the rod ? thanks again and lets hope for nicer weather soon ! I'm going crazy not tinkering on my trucks.

I bought a single nut at O'reilly's not long ago......around a buck a piece.
 
Good read here;
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=32895.msg279524#msg279524

[bd]

Sealed Power adjusting nut #MR1751

Lay a long straightedge, such as a yardstick, across the tops of all the rocker studs to see if they are all the same height.  If the stud in question sits higher than the rest, the stud is pulling.  Simply driving it back down into the head probably will not resolve the issue and it will pull again.  If the stud is reasonably tight in the head, yet migrated upward, you can try removing it completely, thoroughly cleaning the hole and stud with starting fluid or B12, then reinstall the stud to the proper depth with a coat of Loctite Sleeve Retainer - but the outcome is iffy and may result in repeat failure.  The better solution is to ream the hole and install a 0.003" or 0.015" oversize stud or cut threads and install a threaded stud.

Once you are to the point of valve adjustment, you can perform a wet (engine running) or dry (engine off) adjustment procedure.  The dry procedure eliminates oil being thrown everywhere.  Bar the engine over CW while watching the rocker arms on the cylinder in question until the exhaust valve just begins to open.  At that point you can adjust the intake valve.  Once the intake is adjusted, bar the engine over CW until the intake valve just closes; then adjust the exhaust valve.  For the actual adjustment procedure review the thread Bent Intake Valve? from the linked post, forward.  Make sure you pay close attention to the discussion about "determining zero lash."  Once you've determined zero lash, tighten the adjusting nuts anywhere between 1/2 and one full additional turn; one turn centers the plunger in the lifter body.  Adjust both valves the same.

[VTK5Mudder]

ok thanks guys , as soon as the weather straightens out up here in vt ill pull the valve cover and check the stud. if its just the nut anybody know where I can buy just one ? parts stores say no to one at least the to I have called . also anybody tell me the way to adjust them the right way ? ive never done it before and have no way to get the truck to a garage . ive heard some guys just tighten them down till there snug and no play in the rod ? thanks again and lets hope for nicer weather soon ! I'm going crazy not tinkering on my trucks.

I bought a single nut at O'reilly's not long ago......around a buck a piece.
 
Good read here;
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=32895.msg279524#msg279524

thanks for the info I read it and wil reread it . never hurts to have enough info .

[VTK5Mudder]

Sealed Power adjusting nut #MR1751

Lay a long straightedge, such as a yardstick, across the tops of all the rocker studs to see if they are all the same height.  If the stud in question sits higher than the rest, the stud is pulling.  Simply driving it back down into the head probably will not resolve the issue and it will pull again.  If the stud is reasonably tight in the head, yet migrated upward, you can try removing it completely, thoroughly cleaning the hole and stud with starting fluid or B12, then reinstall the stud to the proper depth with a coat of Loctite Sleeve Retainer - but the outcome is iffy and may result in repeat failure.  The better solution is to ream the hole and install a 0.003" or 0.015" oversize stud or cut threads and install a threaded stud.

Once you are to the point of valve adjustment, you can perform a wet (engine running) or dry (engine off) adjustment procedure.  The dry procedure eliminates oil being thrown everywhere.  Bar the engine over CW while watching the rocker arms on the cylinder in question until the exhaust valve just begins to open.  At that point you can adjust the intake valve.  Once the intake is adjusted, bar the engine over CW until the intake valve just closes; then adjust the exhaust valve.  For the actual adjustment procedure review the thread Bent Intake Valve? from the linked post, forward.  Make sure you pay close attention to the discussion about "determining zero lash."  Once you've determined zero lash, tighten the adjusting nuts anywhere between 1/2 and one full additional turn; one turn centers the plunger in the lifter body.  Adjust both valves the same.

hey thanks ill check on the part . hopefully the stud is ok I do remember now reading something about using a yardstick etc. but that was a long time ago !lol ill have to try it but I hope it'll be fine and its just the nut . when my son adj. them after doing the head gaskets he said he thought it was the nut said he tighten it down twice .