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Welcome to 73-87chevytrucks.com73-87chevytrucks.com is not only a forum we are also a vendor for a variety of parts both replacement and custom. Check out our store at 73-87chevytrucks.com Online Store 73-87chevytrucks Social Network We are also on Facebook so give us a like to the page if you like what you see: http://www.facebook.com/7387chevytrucks Follow us on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/7387chevytrucks Follow us on Twitter at https://twitter.com/7387chevytrucks 73-87chevytrucks Merchandise Looking for a shirt, cap hoodie or anything else with our logo, check out or SpreadShop Site or our Cafepress SiteApril 29, 2025, 03:30:47 pm by lumartin1989 | Views: 71 | Comments: 1
Hi all, Was hoping to get some guidance. Some details on the truck: - 1986 Chevy K10 - 305 - Stock Rochester Carb (Rebuilt last year) - Electric Choke Issue: Within last couple of weeks, I have had this issue where the truck goes to high idle randomly while driving. Now, it will only stay on high idle, basically the choke is engaged. The primaries on the carb spring back to being partially closed as soon as you hit the throttle. I can get them to be mostly opened by pressing down on the cam that is by the choke but as soon as I hit throttle, the cam goes back up and the primaries close. A few things I have done to troubleshoot: - Validated that the wires to the electric choke are giving 12 v., I believe this is correct - Pulled off the throttle cable as I thought this might have been an issue and pulled throttle linkage on carb back and will still go into high idle when I press the linkage to give throttle. Believe that eliminates the throttle cable being an issue - I adjusted the choke plate (think that is what it is called), loosen three screws and then adjusted it (rotated forward) to where the cam for the choke is hitting the bottom point which now has the primaries fully open all the time, the choke basically is not in play. I think with the troubleshooting done so far this is maybe pointing to the spring in the choke going bad? Is there anything else I should be looking at before I take the choke off? Anyone know of a good place to source for the spring? Also, the idle speed was really high when the choke was engaged, the RPMs were about 2000k, I adjusted the fast idle screw on the choke to get the idle down to about 1200-1400 RPM, is that about right for the fast idle? Thanks all! April 23, 2025, 05:05:32 pm by zieg85
Views: 1139 | Comments: 5 I eventually will be converting my 67 Ford Custom to front disc brakes but I am not ready. I find myself needing a master cylinder in the meantime. Other than the 2 reservoirs holding a different volume of brake fluid is there any reason I can't install a disc brake master versus the 4 drum version? April 18, 2025, 12:48:55 pm by AJS240 | Views: 2505 | Comments: 2
I'm working on a 1985 GMC K1500 truck (drum rear, disc front) brakes. I've replaced all of the steel lines (pre-bent kit) and rubber hoses, master cylinder, and rear wheel cylinders. I bench bled the master cylinder before installing. I removed the proportioning/combination valve from the chassis, removed the rear properning valve and cleaned it. The valve looks good and the two rubber seals on the proportioning cylinder look good. I bench bled the proportioning valve and centered the piston and have the GM centering tool installed. With all of this the front brakes bleed fine and have plenty of pressure. I get very little flow at the rear and nearly no wheel cylinder piston movement after bleeding the rear. I get a little more flow at the union on the rear line part way up the frame when I test there. At the combination valve outlet to the rear I get decent flow (not as much as the front). The pedal is very firm and does not go to the floor. Is there a spacer between the brake booster plunger and the brake master cylinder on these vehicles? Any other advice on how to proceed. Thanks April 16, 2025, 04:06:00 am by berserk
Views: 3041 | Comments: 6 Are there Dog dish center caps being reproduced right now for 73 -87? I have looked all over Google shopping, truck Forum searches and can't find anything. It doesn't make sense, we can get pretty much everything reproduction for this truck including rally wheel center caps but I can't get reproduction dog dish caps? I don't do eBay, PayPal or Or anything virtual payment. I will order from reputable websites with credit card though though . I have hit the local classic Auto parts swap meets in Oklahoma and there's almost no square body parts to speak of. There are a few dog dish caps floating around but they're generally for c10s. If has a source for reproduction dog dish center caps that will fit on Dana 60/14 bolt please let me know please!! April 12, 2025, 01:29:38 pm by JensenHealey | Views: 3969 | Comments: 3
I have been struggling with a no-start issue on my 1987 R20 with 454TBI motor after a heavy rain storm. I have tried replacing the ignition wires multiple times with no change in behavior. The weather has to pretty warm for a day or two after a rain storm for the truck to start again. Today is two days after a rain storm here but the temps have been in the high thirties or low forties so today I am still stranded with a non-starting truck. BTW, if I pop the hood, remove the air cleaner assembly and carefully watch the TBI injectors while cranking the motor I do see fuel being squirted into the TB so I am fairly well convinced it is an issue with the spark rather than a fuel problem. On dry days the truck always starts quite easily. Any suggestions would be most welcome. Pages: [1]
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Re: 1986 Chevy K10 - High Idle by bd
[April 29, 2025, 08:18:45 pm] 1986 Chevy K10 - High Idle by lumartin1989 [April 29, 2025, 03:30:47 pm] Re: new 20 gallon tank by VileZambonie [April 27, 2025, 06:28:23 am] Re: new 20 gallon tank by Rough75C20 [April 26, 2025, 03:53:34 pm] Re: new 20 gallon tank by Rough75C20 [April 26, 2025, 10:34:20 am]
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