73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: Swampyankee74 on December 30, 2022, 07:09:11 PM
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Confirmed a Mobil sandb)ast guy is coming Sunday
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Does not look bad, just some surface rust. Fun will begin when you begin to put it back together.
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Wow!
Looks good, very happy for you.
Is he just going to do the frame? or the rest of the parts?
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Hes gonna do the frame, control arms, brackets the motor mounts bolt to, gas tank hangers, few other miscellaneous things.
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I just love these posts w/build pics! :D
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I'll keep the pics coming through the whole project on this thread
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:D
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I'd suggest having the rear axle and springs done too.
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I'll get him to blast the rear end. I'm not sure if I'm gonna use the springs again, they are quite stiff and pitted on the sides pretty good. Thinking the might be a little stiff for a hotrod truck?
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I have a new set of those, what length are yours?
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54 1/4" hole to hole
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Before. I'll post some after pics later
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K
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One coat(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230102/733822fa6e41f950a52491666cd615f3.jpg)
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Aw yiss! :)
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2 coats done. Time to rebuild(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230102/e082add5b5ababaccbb3de368f69a4a5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230102/95fda6b1f9b4c8366a977a87ef8b1684.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230102/3417a783d7d6a9cfe36a54bd0653bf16.jpg)
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Hope this paint sticks to the frame as good as it does my skin. I look like a dalmation.
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Yeah it'll stay on you for a while. Gotta wear gloves and long sleeves. Looks great though! I'll measure up those springs tomorrow.
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I wore gloves, but short sleeves. Won't do that again. Sounds good on the springs. Keep me posted
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Wow looks great!
Now the fun begins ;D
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Looks good. What a difference a lil paint makes.
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Control arms stripped of bushings and ball joints, ready to get cleaned up and pai ted.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230107/e778c2a1e4db39ef3e0238ae29bddb65.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230107/ea8983b5f284271e2b356ec22dfd5e09.jpg)
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Painted
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I soaked these in molasses and water 1/9 ratio. Took about a week to dissolve to bare metal.
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They cleaned up nice!
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Dang JP, who knew about molasses, other than it's slow in January.... :)
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Started with pre bent stainless brake lines and prebent stainless fuel lines. Stainless brake lines had all the right bends in the wrong places... scrapped it. Ran the brake lines in copper nickle. Fuel lines worked decent.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230119/b1f235e97ff53267615275f4bad28e13.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230119/4dc590f47737297c2d5c672572097450.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230119/cf89a6b71478fa73fa5a5f9c48cb0fa7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230119/7cc7e59ebd81032248da35c20e57f3d5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230119/300cb6dbf5f8e1ae9b6f549aafd3f339.jpg)
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New after market moog upper control arms complete. Lower control arms are oem. Sandblasted and painted in chasis saver. Have all the bushings, ball joints, and bumpstops. Hopefully I stalled this weekend(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230119/99deaa8612c7c4899505f54884593e44.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230119/9d9a3a73eed216ca24bee6709bcc788c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230119/7babc2ac5407b68c7ef3939f8aeaaf32.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230119/0344cc258f9695fcb52cbf8a3988af25.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230119/d8c5324cffc0b99043440a4db139da22.jpg)
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*hopefully installed
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Looks good
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Farm out! Right arm! 8)
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Lower control arms are built. Front end is going together(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230122/addb9b7f61ceb67fa9db1684acc2a1c3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230122/ed1e237c7ddbfd43203038133131ccdd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230122/6b6c6d10ebe7b3955bba537cf2618853.jpg)
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Nice progress; looks good!
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Lower ball joint: Install ball stud nut and torque as follows. All Series, 80—100 ft. lbs. plus additional torque to
align cotter pin hole not to exceed 130 ft. lbs. maximum. Never back off to align cotter pin.
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Thank you! For some reason the book I have has a tourqe spec on the upper (which is 50'lbs). But nothing for the lower...
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Does anyone know where I can purchase these plastic bushings between the leafs?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230129/b1dccb2ce2d7baa63155dc40840a2cfe.jpg)
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Measure the hole for the pegs but there are lots of options
https://www.ebay.com/itm/352653971265?hash=item521bd08f41:g:UkEAAOSw3SpcydaD&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoDLv1%2BRkaVRZ04ROSIjj9mAStGd6Scuu2F4%2Fq43mjNLP5k%2F8wjPbVC9P7hS%2BcmmB1smPeO%2Bb1V1gD8PT1JevtSwjppVp9CnhenT0XWnooigXv7G7Qf9Xf0jBISV44zy4MNEIpOgmTrhLAPTj3U%2FjZUKO7M%2BqD3yswMyQxfrRWkx%2BWk7XaV3CuI4Bxb04%2BBRDI2AvHFenoq6n8JuK5F0g02Y%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8qc_9m_YQ
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Alright thank you!
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Update on progress. Front wheel bearings and brakes are complete. Split stock motor mounts and put polyurethane motor mounts in. Ended up putting new bushings in my old rear leaf springs and painting. Gonna see how they act with the new drivetrain before I make and further decisions on the rear suspension. Installed the leaf springs. Vile Zambonie completely rebuilt the rear end, new bearings, bushings, a yukon limited slip differential, kept the 373 gears, and rebuilt the drum brakes. Rear end is in the truck and the brakes are piped. If everything goes right this weekend, would like to gett the tranny and motor mated together and dropped in the roller. Waiting on a couple parts that should be here tomorrow, such as flywheel bolts and a throwout bearing, and machine shop should have my flywheel ready.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230209/983fd44b7db1164561cc4c3f93b20089.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230209/acd7e278d18ce50b8faf89b31e955836.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230209/7583ff3a265b4e9aa398631974ecc253.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230209/15c53950f9148935823395d7bd26effe.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230209/cd32697ce87d6981ed8caccd66a4bb8d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230209/79d35268bd010d6e9abc51b3d02cb7fe.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230209/eb2f753a100fb83027bb08678e843dfb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230209/bcc89f291814daf0768ea31bb4ef3bfe.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230209/98994d6643c3e347ec2c119a469cdc59.jpg)
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Wow nice work! She cleaned up well!
Noticed a front sway bar, should help the ride.
Had the front sway on my K10 rebuilt, what a difference! Seriously flat on freeway highway change ramps.
I found a 3/4 ton bar for my C10 under construction that did not come with one stock.
Any thoughts on overkill?
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This truck came with it stock. It did ride nice before I stripped it apart. I gave it new polly bushings so should be even better. I had an 85 c10 with a sway bar also. I don't have much experience with these trucks without one. I know they came both ways. If the c20 bar is the same dimensions as the c10 bar I'd say give it a shot. If you need some numbers on what the stock bar measures I can get them for you.
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Thanks, seems to be the same config except much thicker spring steel.
I did get poly bushing for the larger bar, attachment points match.
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Nice progress. Make sure you do full turn clearance checks for the LCA's by the lower ball joints. Those spindles tend to cause them to rub.
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I will check it out. To clarify, you are saying the spindle will rub on the lower control arm? When fully turned?
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If you mean rim rubbing on control arms? I'm not gonna be running these rims on the truck. Just on here to hold her off the ground while I build.
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Wheels tend to rub with those spindles down by the lower ball joint.
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I have no weight on the truck as of now. First thing to hit with none of the steering parts on it is the sway bar. After I put the motor and tranny on, things may be different (even closer then they are now). I'll keep an eye on it. I'm not gonna run these wheels on the truck. Thank you for the heads up. Definitely something I will keep an eye on.
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Based on your comment about the paint and you looking like a dalmation I'm guessing you went with POR. I did mine that way and man what a mess! Long sleeves and gloves but dang it if I didn't get splattered on the face a few times! Luckiy it comes off the face a little easier (maybe because of the oils).
Looking good so far! I loved that part of the project. It seemed as if everythig went together smooth and fast.
VilesZambonie mentioned rubbing of control arms. I nothiced with my 2.5" and factory wheels they would rub on the balance weights. If you're going aftermarket with any more offset or 16" or larger wheel you should be fine.
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I ended up using chasis saver on the frame. It stuck on me for weeks. As far as the rims go, they do get quite close to the control arms when turned. And I think once the motor is in it'll be even closer. I don't plan on running those rims. There just on there now for the build. I will take the advice and go with a larger rim.
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Took a moment to get to this point. Ended up getting a hays sfi flywheel, a new mcleod sfi street extreme clutch. Took time getting all the proper parts together, flywheel was 1" thick as apposed to 1.25" thick. Plus an inner blast shield between flywheel and motor put me out 3/8. Corrected that with an adjustable fork pivot ball. I think we are good now. Tranny is in...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/77abcb1c6fb56d8d395db95f80be464f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/f2ff78eb4124927af9ad7aa2f3b00fc4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/c7278c93a7fc4af6a71a1cb5fdc4e358.jpg)
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Good progress
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Wow! Inspiring!
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I'm realizing tonight my bracket for the zbar on the bellhousing doesn't line up with bracket on the frame. I'm going to have to get creative. Either build a bracket to bolt to the bellhousing bracket or weld a piece to the bellhousing bracket. Or go hydraulic throwout bearing. Any ideas?
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On the bellhousing? Do you have the stock clutch linkage for the truck?
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Yes I do have the stock linkage and the stock riveted frame backet. My bellhousing is aftermarket lakewood. The part on the bell housing the ball screws to is about 3/4 forward of the frame bracket, and about 3/8 higher.
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My old bellhousing that was on the straight 6 has the ball in the correct spot.
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Did they have 2 different bellhousings from 6 to 8 cylinder? Is it possible they had 2 different frame zbar frame brackets from 6 to 8 cylinder?
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Couple pics(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230304/efdc9d9d405efe91cb4d1c82824f783a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230304/374b295d601fe653f4a953716b701a4d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230304/83a141b83cb723fe158ee5bf1c242aa5.jpg)
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Actually about 7/8" front to rear and 1-1/8 in height
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Is the depth of the bellhousing the same as the old one?
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Yes, my motor mounts and tranny mount all line up where she is supposed to
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The threaded hole for the ball is farther forward and higher on the lakewood bellhousing. It came out of a 69 chevelle. I'm guessing the had different orientation. I think I'm gonna weld a piece to the bellhousing bracket and drill and tap it in the proper location
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I would suggest you mockup the Zbar on the frame side, and connect everything, then bullseye where the engine side ball stud would go. Drill and tap the hole.
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That is the plan. There is just no metal where it should be. Got to add a piece
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Use could use the existing holes and the boss near the oil filter to make a bracket.
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That's an idea too. I'm brain storming, I'll post some pics of the product
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Problem fixed. I hope... (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230304/ef68a81f7812aece38d76fe5af10a15c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230304/fd48d3f2f64d011f39a4c95e2b1a1128.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230304/dd2c6ce13bf70d4ee06a3d724ed98590.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230304/7543e194377876c519e190601a24857c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230304/3bd614de0e27ec07484e7ff04866e682.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230304/ae14cc68726db6bd63c9e25da3488d9d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230304/9e6ecfacc59489df1962e40a78996268.jpg)
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Git r done 8)
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She is back together. Motor and tranny are locked in. Everything appears as though it is gonna work nicely.
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Pic(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230306/9adf1d5f4ee808a4ed6aa2cce8d9c24b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230306/684543389e736ce9d5589657281c48a7.jpg)
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Nice ingenuity! 8)
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Best MacGyver move I've seen lately... 8)
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Just an update. Headers are on. All new tierods, idler arm and pitman arm. Converted over to powersteering, purchased a rebuilt Cardone steering box and new lines(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230318/422a336b57f3b29d7c6801b61908ae67.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230318/f04350cc71e8707e3b17a50554b80710.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230318/c911b081de25e0f2d77ee716c8a158d9.jpg)
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Looks great Man!
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Thank you! It is coming along little by little.
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Nice, Clean, and good detail.
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Thank you! It's definitely a learning experience. This my first time going this deep into a vehicle. Learning and enjoying the heck out of it.
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Picked up a used cheap set of wheels. Fronts are like new, rears are 3/4 new. I don't know what I want for wheels so I'm experimenting. Mickey thompson sportsman s/t. On the rear is 295/50/15, on the front is 215/70/15. Rims are true and square, but junk. Old cragars chrome peeling, on the hub, and rust specs on the rim part. But it's a start. Thinking they might look a little small in my wheel wells with only a 2.5/4 drop. What do you guys think? She has a mean stance with the body off...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/37bf4b315a4dc34247f88995654ffd58.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/29cdd11b644fe3937ba00c58ab1438e2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/2de2aa362ebcae7e4ccd64c441947f2f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/d6cb005db499241a58895a4f1019b395.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/61c4c29e93849c5b86c9c4cb97d90272.jpg)
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If anyone had any input on tire size, I'd love to hear it.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/9b344ec48809b18196b48d3d30c5e8e6.jpg)
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Looks good dude 8)
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Thank you! Got some more parts to install today ;D
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I'm kinda digging the old skool Cragars Swamp! Good-looking work man! 8)
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Me too! I've always liked these rims, too bad these ones are peeling. If I end up liking this wheel size, this thing might get a new set of cragar ss some day
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Added some belltech street performance shocks front and rear(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/5eba36477a3c8669948bf4c185bd74a1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/71c1a3cff93fd922189a06ac6f2780c2.jpg)
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While the frame is exposed with full access, now is an opportune time to fabricate upper shock pin outboard supports, front and rear, so that the frame doesn't tincan and crack. Similarly, the left frame rail could benefit from strategic reinforcement of the steering gear mount. Since you have the frame already coated, perhaps a torque arm solidly coupling two of the steering box bolts to the center of the front cross member.
Your project is coming along nicely and looks great! ;)
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I'm all ears on the shock supports, what does this entail? As far as steering box support, I was thinking that was an issue with the 4x4 trucks, guys getting stuck in the mud and rocks cutting the wheels back and forth. But I'm intrigued, I definitely don't want my frame breaking. Any specific direction you can point me?
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Links to relevant topics... (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=34345.msg292422#msg292422)
In context to the links, my truck is an '87 R10 (1/2-ton 2WD) that ran 28" tall tires most of its life from inception. Even though the truck was restricted to normal street use, the steering gear nearly tore free from the frame over about 180,000 miles. Both upper shock pin holes through the rear frame rails suffered from starburst and sub-concentric cracks that nearly resulted in the rear shocks separating from the frame. My heart sank when I discovered the extent of the damage and estimated the effort needed to restore frame integrity. Local frame shops offered meager (very poor) solutions in my estimation. Consequently, I set to work evaluating frame rail strain, steering gearbox stress directions, axle motions and shock absorber force directions. The end products were brackets that are fully self-supporting. The steering gear torque arms eliminate frame twisting and subsequent cracks. The shock absorber supports eliminate frame twisting and provide unimpeded shock movement. Bear in mind that since your frame remains intact, you enjoy a significant advantage and likely would benefit from less robust solutions.
Note that shock absorbers are not mounted vertically. They are canted diagonally to the axle and frame. My primary advice is to carefully evaluate the dominant axes (vectors) of shock compression and extension as each shock pivots through an independent arc controlled by drive axle up and down movement, and then model your brackets accordingly. In addition, although constrained by the nature of leaf spring mounting, there does exist limited side-to-side displacement of the axle. Hence, your bracket solutions need to accommodate that additional motion so that the shocks contact the vehicle ONLY through their respective mounting pins. The bodies and shafts of the shocks should NEVER come into contact with any part of the vehicle.
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Thank you! I will look into it
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Stripping the firewall to clean up before cab goes on frame. I'm not sure what color this truck will end being. So i believe I'm gonna make the fire wall a matte black finish. I think that will work well know matter what color the truck becomes(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/05cbd13a93893e0a38d435aad8ab5e2e.jpg)
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Matte black will look good.
who's you copilot?
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That's my boy. He's 5. He's learning for when we build him a truck
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Handsome lad!
Good time to start. ;)
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Trying to remove my steering column. It is a 3 speed standard on the column. Trying to remove the shifting ears. First on came right off. Second not so much. It is connected directly to the shifter on the column. How do I release this? Is it up top in the cab or down here at the ear. Any help would be appreciated
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Pic(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/6067b1f604a6d50767b7b3bcdfb1d159.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/5120ff9383f6c539058e9ca3628d5d7d.jpg)
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was the other one keyed?
Apply some heat
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No, the other one was controlled by the same part I can't get off(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/6fbe5a8ddc32218adc718ed904392d52.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/37ea188d5f447ec8ab75af42ae8b463c.jpg)
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I might just pull the big rubber boot. My new/used column has a good rubber on it all ready
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I have never removed an Automatic or Column shift steering column. However looking at the picture I see a small hole at the top , is it a spring load clip? Is the picture I am attaching from my repair manual what you are dealing with?
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The whole is where a cup that holds the assembly together bolts up. But you have a point, might be something that gets depressed there or somewhere else.
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Just pulled the rubber boot at the fire wall, and the hole in the firewall was big enough to rotate the steering column and pull it out.
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Why are you trying to take it off?
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The truck was a three speed on the column. Converting it to a floor shift. I purchased a used steering column that came out of a truck with a floor shift. Just looking to swap out the columns
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You can swap the column without removing that arm, right, doesn't it come out through the firewall?
If you can't, torch it off.
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I am far from a body man... but I'm trying. Between multiple different shape wire wheels, sand paper, wire brushes, and acetone I think the firewall is clean. Hopefully it holds the paint I apply like the original did 49 years ago. My plan is rattle cans. Etching primer and rustoleum matte black. If I'm making a mistake please let me know...
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You can remove the column without ripping the shifter arms off. There is a cut out in the fire wall big enough to pull it out hole. Pretty much unbolt everything, and twist 180 degree. The cutout is just big enough(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230426/74ade511ff883e47b4564e8370137432.jpg)
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Pics of firewall(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230426/ed7ac230296a6a7c7ea69b4ad003d0cc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230426/f287b482f602b47f4da2fefedf183727.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230426/1e21beedde7df1e6999f70a9a2d7efee.jpg)
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Nice, looking good!
Even matte black will show stuff you may not want to see, so take some time.
After acetone and self etching primer, you can use a high build sand-able primer ( rattle can) that you can block sand once cured.
For more ugly divots, I used a product by Crest called Skim Coat, two part i.e. hardener is used.
Unlike spot putty that dries super hard, this stuff is wonderful.
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I'm gonna take your word for it and use a high build sandable primer. Nice looking firewall! Thank you johnny!
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Rattle can anything is pretty much going to look like rattle can. If you want the firewall to look nice, spend the time on it. It's like the backsplash in your kitchen :)
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That does look beautiful. I'm not much of a painter or body man. I'm gonna rattle can it for the time being. I'm gonna have to get over my fear of body work I guess. I'm putting the truck back together with the old worked out body on it. It'll be mechanically brand new with the old body. Thinking next winter take a YouTube body course and give it a shot.
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Thx Swampyankee! I used high build to get this smooth, but shot it as in two stage.
Touche VZ! 'backsplash' Right?
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You don't have to go extreme but now is the time to clean it up and paint it with a good product at least.
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I'm part way through painting already. I made sure it was super clean, rust free and oil free. Did 2 Coats of rustolium self etching primer. And 2 Coats of sandable filler primer, sanded between coats. For a top coat I have Is rust olium satin black. Of course I want it to look good, but most important I hope it holds up.
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Whether that brand or another, look for one that has a 'fan' type of nozzle rather than a barrel type.
The former projects a narrow vertical pattern much like a spray gun would.
The latter is round and can be heavier in the center of the pattern, causing runs for the uninitiated.
If you get runs, let them harden and then wet sand them out, followed by another coat.
Look forward to seeing the results ;D
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Here's where we are at now. Second coat of filler primer.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230428/df5c489a70271060e6e2d65fc6128806.jpg)
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These nozzles are cone shaped unfortunately. I've been pretty careful, have one run under the wiring harness where it goes to the fuse panel (so far, haha)
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The company I was working for closed the doors unexpectedly last Wednesday. I'm a pipefitter/pipe welder, what I do is a lifetime of temporary employment haha. Just had a 6 year run, so trying to get some things done around the house and on the truck in my new found free time.
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4 thin coats of satin black. Came Outta pretty decent. If you get up close you can see some sanding marks. Overall pretty happy with it. Some of you guys on here do some amazing work. It won't match up to that. But I think it is on there good. Time will tell(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230428/6f55286f1b1578f2a012a32bc39051c5.jpg)
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Pic(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230428/5131b3d00d1519957f6e4b843479420c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230428/5f13e2feec9f725a9972d38b8e1a8173.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230428/c7541c309ed47216404d21ef4db1dda6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230428/6455f8b8baf94d7b60eaadfbab8911e8.jpg)
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Looks dandy to me!
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"What a difference a day makes"
Looks pretty good!
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I know it won't hold up like gm's original paint job. But I had a good start. No rot through the cowl. Ad far as a 49 year old pickup goes she is nice. It'll spend its days in a garage from here out, and hopefully my firewall job holds up
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Looks like it came out good. Are your feet clean? ;D
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Covered in overspray! Lol
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Halfway done with wire loom and cut to length wires. Cleaning up the octopus that came on the engine.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230430/17009062ec302f13222143794e39186f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230430/90dbe5d51c46695d4bb3c7192133f50d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230430/043b72a50297be9ad43a601a4816f60c.jpg)
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Second half. Cleaned it up nice!!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230430/cc27831a01942285d1c2a1969eb29f17.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230430/a9f2422485083fec7a525e9788f65f14.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230430/4d454e309438c7d5bd180e34d7936165.jpg)
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Great shot SY!
Looks great! Seems it might help with different lighting, sans glare.
Thanks!!!
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Nice looking headers, Would like to get a set for my K10, need to research and find what will fit.
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Those were hedmans. They fit nicely!
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Headers look burly!
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Clean wring job! where did you source them?
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Came off of summitt. They are R&M specialties verticle spark plug wire loom. Plug wire were msd that you cut and put your own end on
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TY!
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Taking my doggy for a walk(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230517/8790d44b7bdb1e8b9c5c6a8fb1864d6e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230517/bf0f5c3d9ae0fb876a57515a4274da2f.jpg)
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Putting cab back on frame(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230517/4dbb3f59ef12dcf9b0138abcafdce791.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230517/6dcf8bb408ebb51320edbb11a39ff363.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230517/61f45429975800001935fc3572e6769f.jpg)
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Awesome! Was it just you re-cabbing?
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No, my dad was helping me.
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It is coming along very nice.
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Cool dad! ;)
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He definitely is. He's 73, retired, lives about 5 minutes away. Anytime I need help with anything he's there.
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I lost mine in 1981... :'(
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I'm sorry to hear that. I'm dreading that day myself
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Enjoy the time man, tomorrow is promised to none of us.
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Stripping my stock column shift, swap out some parts and clean up new column without shifter. Painted up and put the heater blower box back in. Used butyl tape to seal it to the firewall. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230523/6e7cee1453183c5175b5a30c48ceb4da.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230523/c9e199f28954f6d190e6277f6a962188.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230523/d1a6aca6bfab322fc79fa9ee1f803dbe.jpg)
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Nice work bro! 8)
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Woo Hoo! She be burning out soon!!!
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Hopefully! I'd like to take it for a drive before the salt the roads. I have time, but you guys know how that goes
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Looks killer Swampy!
I can't wait to see it on the road. 8)
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Steering column is in. Breaks are all together with new vacuum booster and master cylinder. Just waiting for an assistant to help me bleed them. Now time to start wiring. I was looking to purchase a rev limiter, but ended up purchasing a msd 6al which has a rev limiter included in it. Why not have better spark and a rev limiter. Gonna remove the hei module. Getting closer to hearing her run.
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Pic(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230610/060c3b0bce4a1335172772013044e862.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230610/780b3363ccd233ff1bac7b9ce2feb5dc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230610/9e0021c73f40d25115a6d47832b60af2.jpg)
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Dude!!!
You are killing it.
That thing is going to be so nice when you finish it up. 8)
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Coming along nicely
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Thank you. I've never been this deep into a vehicle. There's a whole lot of learning going on. A lot of one step forward then 2 back haha
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Looking great man!
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Msd 6al box is mounted. Just getting into some wiring. Ended up putting a low resistance hei bushing in the distributor (was recommended I do so). Removed the hei module. I needed keyed power to turn the msd box on and off, I ended up removing the resistor wire and pin from the bulkhead and soldered a 12 guage wire to the pin and put it back in the bulk head, this way I have full 12 volt not 8 or 9.
I'm going from a 3 wire alternator to a 1 wire. In what way do I hook this up so that my ammeter still functions? Or will it function with just the 1 wire?
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Pic(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230619/d6fabfdb19fb7eb95b633b509f9b75e2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230619/38226bd4d81a61d6831d9beea0499330.jpg)
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WOW - great build!
You are fixin to have one nice C10 :)
Are those 10" Cragar's on the rear?
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The rear rims are 15x8. But the 295/50 fits nice on them
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Did what I can for wiring, time to put the nose on to keep going. Will take a little bit. Frostbite electric fans are in the mail, that match the radiator I have(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230701/065c4a5776e308570bfd5e56f0ef52e1.jpg)
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Is that right - that 295/50 looks a lot better!
I have 15x8 Rally's that looked fine with the Fleetside but not so good with the Stepper!