Author Topic: roll up windows  (Read 5328 times)

Offline baknblk

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roll up windows
« on: December 01, 2008, 10:42:46 AM »
hey guys i got power windows on my 84 swb ..i want to get the custom door panels and and change then to roll up..what all with i have to have..thanks
« Last Edit: December 01, 2008, 11:05:40 AM by baknblk »

Offline ccz145a

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Re: roll up windows
« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2008, 12:57:00 PM »
you'll need a set of 77-up regulators and the handles from a donor. Thats all. If you were keeping your old door panels, the square hole on the driver's side would be too large to cover with the handle, but since your replacing them, no worries.
1975 C10 Silverado LWB, 454CID, TH400, 10bolt 3.42
11MPG Downhill w/tailwind (but there ain't no hills here)

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: roll up windows
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2008, 07:56:53 PM »
I would keep the power windows personally.
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74 GMC, 75 K5, 84 GMC, 85 K20, 86 k20, 79 K10

Offline baknblk

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Re: roll up windows
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2008, 10:40:51 PM »
was just wanting to keep it plain and simple

Offline bigblue09

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Re: roll up windows
« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2008, 10:33:33 PM »
i love my power windows but the passenger side is really slow and sometimes i have to help it up. i have taken the pannel off and greased everything really good and its a brand new motor.  :-\
'87 Silverado EFI 305

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: roll up windows
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2008, 07:09:39 AM »
Determine if it's mechanical resistance or electrical resistance. If you have a meter it's real simple to do.

See what the applied voltage is to the motor when activating it. Then hook the meter up in series across the motor while actuating. Compare your results.

Next check the current draw on both motors for comparisson. Remember to open the circuit and install the meter in series otherwise you'll make your meter the load in the circuit and cook it.
,                           ___ 
                         /  _ _ _\_
              ⌠ŻŻŻŻŻ'   [☼===☼]
              `()_);-;()_)--o--)_)

74 GMC, 75 K5, 84 GMC, 85 K20, 86 k20, 79 K10

Offline JJSZABO

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Re: roll up windows
« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2008, 08:20:59 AM »
I've done that - cooked my meter >:(

I was checking for amps and installed it in parallel insted of series and POOF!

You'll only do it once :D
Jeff

86 Chevy C-10
350, TH400
Ex father and son project (son lost interest)

Son regained interest when truck was almost completed

Offline bigblue09

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Re: roll up windows
« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2008, 10:01:24 AM »
haha. i thought it was the motor the first time then i replaced it and it still does it. i think it might be the seal it sits in is coming apart and putting pressure on the window. that will be the first thing i try but its winter so its not the big right now.
'87 Silverado EFI 305

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: roll up windows
« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2008, 12:06:53 PM »
LOL Yep, my passenger side is ultra slow too. I have to 'rock it' when it gets about 2/3 near the top to get it to inch all the way up. If I've washed the truck recently and the internals get damp, it works better but then the water dries and it's back to being slow. I have sprayed WD40 in there but it just washes out. Using real grease would be much better since it's way more durable to things like water not washing it away too easily.

I too thought about changing to manual windows and putting an electric conversion kit on it to simply the internals so that I could do custom lower panels with midbass mounted in them. I'm going another direction with that and will just keep the factory power setup.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline JJSZABO

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Re: roll up windows
« Reply #9 on: December 11, 2008, 12:18:58 PM »
LOL Yep, my passenger side is ultra slow too. I have to 'rock it' when it gets about 2/3 near the top to get it to inch all the way up. If I've washed the truck recently and the internals get damp, it works better but then the water dries and it's back to being slow. I have sprayed WD40 in there but it just washes out. Using real grease would be much better since it's way more durable to things like water not washing it away too easily.

I too thought about changing to manual windows and putting an electric conversion kit on it to simply the internals so that I could do custom lower panels with midbass mounted in them. I'm going another direction with that and will just keep the factory power setup.

Hey SUX2BU99  your problem sounds like you need a better ground connection.  When your internals get wet, the water is acting like a large ground conductor and alowing the motor to work better.  Check your ground on that particular circuit.
Jeff

86 Chevy C-10
350, TH400
Ex father and son project (son lost interest)

Son regained interest when truck was almost completed