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Use Mobil 1 5W40 Turbo Diesel Truck oil in your 6.2. It has quite a lot more Calcium (detergent) to keep the soot in suspension along with a lot more Zinc and Phosphorous anti-wear compounds in the add pack than the gasoline engine oils. Shell Rotella T6 5W40 is another good one for the same reason.Yes thats the one i was referring to, not the 5w40 car oil, sorry i should have been more specific-I'd look into LPD (Low Pressure Drop) plate coolers. They self regulate temperature and are supposed to be between 30% & 50% more efficient than the tube and fin coolers. The 28,000 GVW Tru Cool LPD4590 would work quite well. Completely bypass the radiator cooler.I just looked up that LPD4590,I like that design, and its pretty compact, relatively speaking, the $100 price point isnt too bad either, i know a generic 28K cooler would run me $40-$50 around here so for just 2x the price i can have a better design, thats not a bad deal at all..Regarding the suggestion to bypass the radiator cooler, i very rarely do that, up north here, only because from november until march our actualy temperatures drop below zero, usually 10-30F below zero for days or weeks at a time, 3 winters ago we didnt see a day above 0F for about 2 weeks, and i would not feel comfortable driving around a 6K lb vehicle with fluid that is probably alot thicker than designed for. I have bypassed the rad cooler on motorhomes, but they rarely if ever saw a road after the first flurries hit the ground so it was no issue, and they usually cooled betterbc the fluid isnt getting passed through 180-220F coolant. I also understand that it is potentially possible to have a internal Rad leak and fry the trans if coolant went into it and thats the reasoning behind alot of people bypassing them, but the PO "claimed" this rad was replaced at a shop in cali just a couple years before it was parked and when i drained it and inspected it, there was extremely minimal buildup, so at the very lease it had proper fluid in it.-Don't bother with Synthetic ATF in the Transmission. I run Dexron VI in the TH350, TH400, TH700R4, 4L80E, & 4L60. ATF that meets Dexron VI will be an excellent shear stable oil and is backward compatible with Dexron II & Dexron III. If the bottle says Dexron VI, not "Dexron Compatible", it's licensed and tested by GM so you know it meets spec. The Supertech Dexron VI from Walmart is the same as any other ATF that says it is Dexron VI on the bottle and the price is right. There has been no such thing as Dexron III licensed and tested by GM for a little over a decade.Good info, i wasnt completely sure about the trans fluid, other than maybe topping it with a bottle of lucas trans additive, i can honestly say ive noticed a difference and its saved a few slipping trannies for me, atleast for a few thousands miles-Install a Magnefine filter in the transmission fluid cooler return line and weld or braze a drain plug into the transmission pan. Replace the strainer at the same time. After that's done you can change the ATF just as easily as you change the engine oil. As long as you replace the 25 micron Magnefine filter you will not need to change the 100 micron strainer again for a very long time as there will not be particles large enough to get caught in it. There are counterfeit Chinese manufactured Magnefine filters that have some serious problems. There are several articles on how to identify counterfeit Magnefine filters and where to get the real Australian manufactured filters. Google it. You should probably replace the magnefine at the same time as the engine oil at least two or three times to get rid of any crud floating around in the transmission and cooler lines but you shouldn't need to replace the ATF for around 25-30,000 miles or even more.$16 for a filter that could save me tons of headaches in the future? heck yeah thats on my list now for all 4 vehicles lol-The NP208 & NP241 used Dexron II ATF from the factory. Dexron III was backward compatible with Dexron II. In the 2007 or so Dexron VI service bulletin GM states: "Any vehicle that previously required DEXRON®-III for a manual transmission or transfer case should now use P/N 88861800. This fluid is labeled Manual Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid." You can buy GM 88861800 from Summit Racing for $6.75 a quart. -The slip yoke NP205 used Dexron II so you can use the same fluid as the NP208 & NP241. The Pre-1980 fixed yoke NP205 used 80W90 GL4 gear oil. You can probably use 75W90 in the 1980 and before NP205 fixed yoke transfer case.-The 10 bolt front axle will do just fine on Synthetic 75W90 GL5 Gear oil.-The G80 Eaton Gov-Loc is a locker. Do not use Limited Slip additive. You can use the slightly lighter 75W90 GL5 gear oil but I'd avoid Synthetics with the G80 locker.-----------------------LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL LUBRICANT (SERVICE INFORMATION) #91-4-109SUBJECT: LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL (G80) LUBRICANT - (SERVICE INFORMATION)VEHICLES AFFECTED: ALL LIGHT TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH G80 REAR AXLE ALL YEARSSome light duty trucks equipped with locking rear axles (G80) may exhibit rear axle chatter, especially when turning a corner from a stop.This condition of alternate engagement and disengagement of clutches in differential assembly is usually caused by contaminated axle lubricant.To correct this condition, drain and refill the rear axle with SAE 80W-90 GL5 (P/N 10950849). The use of any additive in locking rear axles (G80) is not recommended. Rear axle additives are designed for use in limited slip differentials which are normally installed in cars. All light duty trucks equipped with RPO G80 make use of a locking differential and the use of additives will delay the engagement of the locking mechanism and may decrease axle life.VEHICLES/COMPONENTS INVOLVED: --------------- Some light duty trucks equipped with locking rear axles, RPO G80.SERVICE PARTS INFORMATION:Part Number Description ----------- ------------------ 10950849 Lubricant, Rear Axle (1 litre)Parts are currently available through CANSPO.WARRANTY INFORMATION:As specified in Light Duty Truck Maintenance Schedules, locking rear axle fluid drain and refill is required owner maintenance at the first engine oil change. Failure to drain and refill the rear axle as specified may contribute to a later axle chatter condition. Refer to the appropriate Light Duty Truck Maintenance Schedule or service manual, section OB, for further details on change intervals.General Motors bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, not a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform those technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, do not assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See a General Motors dealer servicing your brand of General Motors vehicle for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved---------------
Regarding the suggestion to bypass the radiator cooler, i very rarely do that, up north here, only because from november until march our actualy temperatures drop below zero, usually 10-30F below zero for days or weeks at a time, 3 winters ago we didnt see a day above 0F for about 2 weeks, and i would not feel comfortable driving around a 6K lb vehicle with fluid that is probably alot thicker than designed for. I have bypassed the rad cooler on motorhomes, but they rarely if ever saw a road after the first flurries hit the ground so it was no issue, and they usually cooled betterbc the fluid isnt getting passed through 180-220F coolant. I also understand that it is potentially possible to have a internal Rad leak and fry the trans if coolant went into it and thats the reasoning behind alot of people bypassing them, but the PO "claimed" this rad was replaced at a shop in cali just a couple years before it was parked and when i drained it and inspected it, there was extremely minimal buildup, so at the very lease it had proper fluid in it.
Sounds like you need glow plugs. AC Delco AC-60G PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) glow plugs are a must. They're dual coil fast start units that self regulate. On top of that they don't swell up when they fail... unlike the obsolete AC-9G & AC-11G glows.Replace all eight. That way you know what you have. Right now you could have a mix of old obsolete 9G & 11G plugs along with current design 60G plugs... mixing in the old slow glows is not a recipie for easy starts and the obsolete designs swell up when they fail.Sent from my SM-P605V using Tapatalk
The gauge picks up off the bottom stud and there's heat from the defroster vents without running the engine for more than a few seconds. It's a 1,000 W dealer installed frost plug heater in the 2000 C2500 GMC... I assume OEM GM. 1,000W aftermarket freeze plug heaters in the others. You can replace the cords if they are crunchy and I usually grease the heck out of the terminals with dielectric grease. The terminals usually clean right up with toothbrush size brass brushes. If they don't clean up replace the heater.If you're regularly seeing below -20°F you should put one on each side of the block. I only occasionally see -30°F and usually not less than -15°F.NEMA 5-15 is 15Amps at 120V or 1800W max. NEMA 5-20 is 20A at 120V or 2,400W max. If the heater is 600A you should only be pulling 5A. Well under the 15A max NEMA 5-15 plug threshold. If the cord is getting hot my guess is you're using 16-3 extension cords with a long run or that block heater is bigger than you think it is. The smaller gauge cords or long runs burn your wattage instead of your block heater. You can buy 25' 12-3 extension cords for right around $40. You shouldn't plug it in further away than 25' or so and shorter is better.My 12-3 SOOW cord is run is no more than 12'.