Window Regulators (Elect)

[DnStClr]

I replaced the power window regulator motor-drivers side- because it was very slow. Boy that can be a heck of a job.It didn't line up well with the mounting holes until I used a drift pin.  It's still slow-like it's binding. Switch is ok. Could my rollers be worn out? I cleaned & lubed them a bit before reinstalling the regulator. I didn't clean out the tracks tho. Could they be full of gunk and need cleaned too? When I loosen the regulator bolts the window moves much better. When they're tight the window stops half-way up. Bent arms?
Frustrated Don.   maybe tomorrow will be a better day...

[frogman68]

Have you checked the ground ?

[DnStClr]

Well I think it's a mechanical bind but I'll be sure to recheck the wiring. I got to wondering if a previous owner replaced both right and left sides and mixed them up when they were reinstalled.

[Captkaos]

I have had a few that were binding.  Can you look down in there and see if they are hitting anywhere?  I have had to bend a few.  Generally I clean and regrease the tracks when I replace a motor.  Also may want to check the run channel if they are old.

[DnStClr]

Well after 6 or 7 installs and removals I'm about worn out with this regulator. It's binding for sure cause it works good when I put it on the ground and operate it and when I install it with only the two top nuts and leave the lower two screws out. . and I tried to bend it but it didn't work. I need a torch. Or a new regulator. I guess I"ll hunt around for one. I'm runnin out of tape to hold the window up while the regulator is out...

[VileZambonie]

Is the glass binding? Do a voltage drop test at the motor to see if there is an electrical resistance problem.

[DnStClr]

Out of the door the motor has 11 volts operating one way (up) and 10 volts operating the other way(down). No drop in voltage. Can't check it in the door. I can't reach the elect. connector.   Shims between the door panel and regulator didn't help either.I guess it's time to just buy a new regulator. I did notice that after 5 or 6 cycles the motor gets pretty warm.

[VileZambonie]

Is the truck running when you do this? Assuming your charging voltage output is at least 13 volts if you only have 10 volts dropped at the motor 3 volts were dropped elsewhere in the circuit meaning electrical resistance.

[zieg85]

I have seen bad connections at the plug in from the door loom by the e-brake where it plugs into the cab wiring. 

[DnStClr]

Yeah I see what you mean. 3 volts becomes a lot if there's only 13 to start with- and the engine wasn't running while testing. I thought you meant a drop while it was operating.I cleaned the connectors at the plug and connector but didn't check the connector at the loom. One thing I found- a frayed wire at the inner door panel opening, and the window seems to working ok now. I hope this was the problem.. I added some tape to the wires and some plastic tubing to the edge of the opening to protect the wires.

[VileZambonie]

In a DC circuit all of the voltage applied to the intended load should be dropped. Example if you apply 13 volts to a light bulb all 13 volts should be dropped at the load. If you were to read more than .2V after the load (negative side) that would indicate resistance on the negative side of the circuit. Either connection or resistance in the wires. If any voltage was dropped ahead of the load this would indicate resistance before the load (connections/wires). Voltage drop testing is the most effective way of finding resistance especially since many circuits will ohm ok when de-energized. Also you can not measure ohms when the circuit is powered on.