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Mike81K10
Today at 11:28:30 AM by Mike81K10
Views: 33 | Comments: 2

I have never thought much about the PCV valves. I always bought and installed them into the valve cover without paying much attention to the specs. Was reading some material online and I understand that the PCV valve can cause the RMS to leak oil, there can be oil blow out, and other problems without the proper valve cover venting. Saw something about a fixed Orifice, etc.

Can someone educate me on this subject. I want to ensure I don't make a mistake on my engines pcv valve or valve cover venting. I bought a; Billet Specialties Valve Cover Breathers BLK21220 and Billet Specialties Valve Cover Breathers BLK20220. Should I return them and get something else?
June 22, 2024, 07:03:56 AM by kopeck | Views: 114 | Comments: 4

Good morning,

I know, another one of these threads.  I've read a lot of them, but everyone's goals are different so I figured I would see what you folks thought.

'79 C10 with a SBC 350, right now the engine is 100% original with 90ish thousand miles.  It starts easily, idles well, and runs about as good as one could ask for that vintage engine with those years/miles.  That being said, while it starts easily, it makes a bigger and bigger puff of blue smoke, so the heads need attention.  When it's cold, a lifter makes a racket. It sorts itself out after warming up, but I'm not sure how far I want to push it (it's been doing it for a while; it's taking longer and longer to quiet down).  While it does idle well, I have to run it pretty rich to make it happy, not sure what that's all about.  It also leaks...from everywhere.
 It's pretty much a standard a tired, small block.

My goal is a lot different from most folks, at least from what I've read.  I want to keep it mostly stock, at least where it makes sense.  I want good idle and good drivability.  More torque would be nice, but the HP number I really don't care about.  I'll be keeping the iron exhaust manifolds and probably the single exhaust and Quadrajet carb.

My plan:

The Block: Get it trued up and bored to whatever it needs to clean up, I really don't need to punch it out as big as I can go.

The Crank: Get it looked over and ground to what ever it needs to be cleaned up.

Parts: Source a quality rebuild kit.  Nothing exotic is needed, just decent parts.  Things like a Melling pump and quality timing set.  (suggestions welcomed)

The Head: I would like some feedback on this. I was originally going to just have the OE heads rebuilt. Now I'm not so sure. They're 882 heads, which don't seem to have much going for them. They're low-performance and prone to cracking. A local builder I talked to said he would never invest in 882s.  His suggestion was a set of World Products SR Torquers; he said they do everything better than the 882s with zero downside.  He also said that if they were out of my budget, the Summit SUM-152123 would be a good choice.  Pretty much stick with iron heads, paint them blue and they will look stock. :-)

Cam: Another place I'm not sure where to go.  The same guy suggested a "CS-274" cam, which from what I've read it just a stock cam.  I'm fine with that but I know there's a ton of options and opinions.

Intake: Probably stick with the stock one.  The same guy said I wouldn't notice the difference by upgrading.  He really just thought the heads were the thing to invest in.

Any advice would be appreciated.  I've been through a number of engines, mostly ag stuff, where you don't have a variety of parts to choose from, so this whole mixing and matching is new to me.

Thanks,

K



June 21, 2024, 02:05:42 PM by fiddler | Views: 75 | Comments: 2

I have a 1974 chevy stepside.  C10.  With factory air.  So two days ago I was driving down the freeway on a hot day with the air going and suddenly it quit.  The blower just stopped blowing.  So yesterday I started debugging and could find nothing wrong but a blown fuse.  I replaced the fuse and I can't find any reason for it to be blown.  I guess the next step is to put a dc ammeter on the circuit to see if it is indeed close to the rated 20 amps of the fuse.  Has anybody had a similar experience?  Do automotive fuses just give up with age??   Thanks for your inputs. 
JohnnyPopper
June 21, 2024, 12:28:18 PM by JohnnyPopper
Views: 63 | Comments: 0

I cracked a Qjet off a 60's GM motor, and found it is not an open plenum.

The primaries are isolated, the secondaries, have a common space in the gasket.

There appears to be a notch in each primary toward the front of the carb, it joins the two via the space between the primaries.

Problem is the closed plenum gasket is not to be found locally.

Question: Does it matter?
June 20, 2024, 09:07:47 AM by Dr_Snooz | Views: 248 | Comments: 11

My entire exhaust system needs replacing. I have to pass CA smog when it's over, so yeah. I want to use these smog legal headers:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jba-1830s-4js

This cat:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-339109/make/chevrolet/model/v2500-suburban/year/1989

This muffler:

https://www.magnaflow.com/products/11229-magnaflow-4-x-9in-oval-straight-through-performance-exhaust-muffler-11229

Stock routing, 2.5" -> 3", unless I can think of something better.

I'll also put in some V-band clamps to let me remove the Y-pipe for transmission work.

All advice is appreciated.
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