collapse collapse

* Who's Online

  • Dot Guests: 332
  • Dot Hidden: 0
  • Dot Users: 8
  • Dot Users Online:

* Board Stats

  • stats Total Members: 21524
  • stats Total Posts: 313274
  • stats Total Topics: 34265
  • stats Total Categories: 8
  • stats Total Boards: 84
  • stats Most Online: 3053

* Recent Topics

* Calendar

December 2023
Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
1 2
3 [4] 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
24 25 26 27 28 29 30

* Search

* Top Boards offers select, high quality parts for sale that help fund this website and Forum.  Take a moment to drop by The Store and shop our products.  If you don't find what you're looking for, shoot us an email ( - the part simply may not have been added yet.  We add new items all of the time.

Welcome to is not only a forum we are also a vendor for a variety of parts both replacement and custom. Check out our store at Online Store

73-87chevytrucks Social Network

We are also on Facebook so give us a like to the page if you like what you see:

Follow us on Instagram at

Follow us on Twitter at

73-87chevytrucks Merchandise

Looking for a shirt, cap hoodie or anything else with our logo, check out or Cafepress site or our Spreadshirt site

Today at 09:59:54 AM by Dr_Snooz | Views: 1 | Comments: 0

I'm looking for recommendations for a front differential. I have a clutch-type LSD in the rear and am looking for something better than the open diff I have in the front. I'm NOT building a rock crawler and this truck will see few 4x4 trails. I need something that will get me out of my driveway when the rain turns it into a slick track, and something that will perform well on the snowy icy roads in the National Park that is 30 minutes up the mountain from here. I'd like something well-mannered, like my LSD. It doesn't make any noise, doesn't intrude too much on normal driving, but still gives me the option to put in heavier springs and get more aggressive if I choose to later.

What does everyone think? Another clutch-type LSD? A gear-driven Eaton True Trac? A lunchbox locker?
December 03, 2023, 10:11:29 PM by jbsealy
Views: 29 | Comments: 0


I have a stock 1984 C10 with a 250 inline 6. Am trying to figure out how to adjust belt tension as am installing a new belt. The PS pump belt also turns the air pump pulley. I seem unable to figure out how the PS pump will pivot so tension can be adjusted. The alternator is driven by a separate belt and has an obvious pivot bolt and a slotted bracket for adjustment. I am wondering if the tension is a function of pivoting the air pump? Pretty sure it is something simple that will embarrass me.

Any advice will be very appreciated.

Mr. Machanic
December 03, 2023, 02:37:51 PM by Mr. Machanic
Views: 48 | Comments: 2

I'm new to this so forgive my ignorance....but...
What color should the grill bowtie be?
78 Big 10, Bonanza & Scottsdale.

I just can't seem to find a decisive answer.
Blue or Gold?

Please tell me where you found the info and,
Thanks in advance.
December 03, 2023, 12:23:12 AM by Dr_Snooz | Views: 75 | Comments: 5

Hard to believe it's been more than 8 years since I wrote this thread about repacking your front wheel bearings:

In it, I packed the wheel bearings incorrectly, smearing a light coating of grease around the outsides of the bearings, then placing them in the races, giving a good turn and calling it good. I've had a long time to drive on those bearings now, and I'm tired of having that horribly gouged rotor at the back of my mind, so I figured I'd open it up again and see just how bad a poor bearing pack could be.

The TLDR version is that 2 bearings need to be replaced, and 2 other bearings were fine. You can blame me for poor workmanship, and I won't argue, but there's more to the story. Please read on.

Let me say first that the bearings were so packed with grease, 3 parts washings didn't get it all out. You can make an argument that maybe the bearings had a few dry revolutions starting out, but they still got thoroughly packed with grease. In addition, there were some other failures that might have more to do with the bearings going bad than my pack job.

Here is the driver side outer bearing, which looks fine to me:

It's not great, but it will make it to the next bearing repack, no problem.

The inner bearing is another story:

This one is obviously sad. There's a striation across the middle of all the rollers and there is copper peaking through on all of them. The black squiggly in the foremost roller is pitting.

Here's another view, sadly out of focus. Even so, you can still see that the rollers have worn through to copper. So this bearing is done. The more interesting thing to note here is the rust on the inside of the inner race. Turns out the axle shaft seal totally failed maybe a decade ago, and I never tore down far enough to see it.

There was so much water, I have to replace my spindle hub:

I didn't get pics of it, but the other side is basically the same story. Failed seals, failed inner bearing with a decent outer bearing.

My packing job was clearly sub-standard, but I have to say that this doesn't look like premature failure from too little grease to me. The bearing does not appear to have gotten hot, or to have spun. Nor does it look like water failure, even though there is rust damage. To me, this looks like age failure. These are just old, high-mileage bearings. I'm not the final word on this, by any means, so please weigh in below with your own thoughts.

It's worth mentioning that everything on this axle is plumb wore out. The U-joints are shot. The ball joints are shot. The axle seals are shot. The diff carrier bearings are shot. The spider gears are heavily worn. Obviously, the driver's rotor is a catastrophe. The calipers, by some miracle, weren't leaking, but the rubber brake lines are cracked and the guide pins worn. I was going to rebuild the calipers, but there was so much I needed for them that buying partially loaded rebuilt units was cheaper. I would be really surprised if the wheel bearings didn't look like this.

The axle needs a total rebuild, of course. You can follow along with that on my build thread, if you want.

It won't be Pirate4x4 worthy, but it will be a respectable build, nonetheless.
December 02, 2023, 10:12:47 PM by Scaryfastatx | Views: 44 | Comments: 2

Hey everybody, curious what current rating is the factory fuse on the gauges circuit?

My original fuse block had a 20A fuse on there

But my American Autowire Classic Update schematic and instructions say it needs to be 5A

But it's randomly popping. I checked the cluster and everything seems fine

Pages: [1]

* Recent Posts

* Top Poster

VileZambonie VileZambonie
18926 Posts
Captkaos Captkaos
18272 Posts
Irish_Alley Irish_Alley
13319 Posts
zieg85 zieg85
7518 Posts
bd bd
6395 Posts

* Forum Staff

admin Toolmaster
Captkaos admin Captkaos
roundedline admin roundedline
ccz145a gmod ccz145a
Senior Member
zieg85 gmod zieg85
Senior Member
gmod Judge Roy Bean
Site Supporters
Global Moderator
gmod roundedline1
gmod realsquash
New Users
Irish_Alley gmod Irish_Alley
Global Moderator
VileZambonie gmod VileZambonie
Global Moderator
Blazin gmod Blazin
Global Moderator
bd gmod bd
Global Moderator
bajaburban lmod bajaburban
lmod red4wd
Registered Users