73 C20 Performance Engine Build

[LTZ C20]

Here is the video I promised. It does not actually show the first start but it shows it running, it was not shut off and restarted at this point so this is its first run just not the start up.

[LTZ C20]

Crap, tried to load the video, crashed the Tapatalk app lol.

[LTZ C20]

I just remembered that when I was dropping the engine in, I had to rotate the trans dipstick tube out of the way, I used the bell housing bolt bracket as a hand hold and accidentally snapped it right off haha. Oh well, gonna get a new one today. Sometimes I think I should register these hands as lethal weapons LOL.

[LTZ C20]

Well a bit bummed out here guys, oil pan is leaking at the bottom cut out for both the front AND rear main seals. The seals aren't leaking, the pan is at the front and back of the pan. I don't understand it, did everything I was supposed too, stupid thing just won't seal. Pan and gasket are brand new when put engine together. Gasket is Felpro 1 - piece blue rubber gasket with steel rings around bolt holes. Pan is a GM factory replacement for this block. I'm fustrated and tired of dealing with it, thinking about running it thru the shop tomorrow and letting the 25 year engine guy fix it, labor is cheap and so is parts. What ya think?

[bd]

Set backs happen - don't let it get you down.  There are two pan gaskets available - 1 tall, 1 short.  Any possibility you used the wrong one?  Did you smear the gasket with RTV during assembly and allow it to setup thoroughly before filling with oil?  Were the gasket rails completely free of oil during pan installation?

[LTZ C20]

Tall or short? That's a possibility. No smear, was told not to by guys at work, only the corners where it meets the block and front cover. Set up before filling with oil, yes. It sat for bout a week before it got oil. Eveything was completely clean.

[FlatBlack77]

what did you torque the bolts to?

i couldnt for the life of me find the torque specs for the one piece gasket when i put mine in recently. i looked on felpros sight and googled the heck out of it with no luck. my service manuals said whatever number for the small bolts and whatever number for the larger bolts. i forget the numbers. one of my books said that even though the bolts could all handle the same torque numbers you cant make them all that tight because it would crush the cork gaskets(old manuals lol)

so long story short i tightened all the bolts to the higher number and i went around like 5 times in a criss cross patern. i did the RTV in the corners and i had the short gasket. not a drop has leaked

it is possible its the oil pan you are using

[bd]

it is possible its the oil pan you are using

The gasket has to match the pan. 

LTZ, I use and recommend RTV in the corners, as stated, and along the seal trenches in the bottom of the timing cover and rear main cap.  Avoid RTV between the gasket and the pan lip or you'll risk squeeze-out of the gasket.  The Right Stuff by Permatex may be a better choice for you under the circumstances.  Otherwise, it sounds like your method was sound.  Talk to your guys at work and see what they think.

[LTZ C20]

what did you torque the bolts to?

i couldnt for the life of me find the torque specs for the one piece gasket when i put mine in recently. i looked on felpros sight and googled the heck out of it with no luck. my service manuals said whatever number for the small bolts and whatever number for the larger bolts. i forget the numbers. one of my books said that even though the bolts could all handle the same torque numbers you cant make them all that tight because it would crush the cork gaskets(old manuals lol)

so long story short i tightened all the bolts to the higher number and i went around like 5 times in a criss cross patern. i did the RTV in the corners and i had the short gasket. not a drop has leaked

it is possible its the oil pan you are using

7 ft lbs for the 14 smaller side rail bolts and 13 ft lbs for the 4 larger corner bolts if I remember correctly. It's possible I have the tall gasket, I don't know for sure tho. I'll go inside in a few and see if I can find the receipt. I tightened mine in a spiral pattern, starting from the middle and working my way out just like torque down a cylinder head.

I doubt it's the pan, GM product, brand new and straight as an arrow, I checked before I put it on.

[LTZ C20]

it is possible its the oil pan you are using

The gasket has to match the pan. 

LTZ, I use and recommend RTV in the corners, as stated, and along the seal trenches in the bottom of the timing cover and rear main cap.  Avoid RTV between the gasket and the pan lip or you'll risk squeeze-out of the gasket.  The Right Stuff by Permatex may be a better choice for you under the circumstances.  Otherwise, it sounds like your method was sound.  Talk to your guys at work and see what they think.

I did most of that except the "in the seal trenches" part. I also used Permatex Right Stuff. I think it's probable the gasket doesn't match the pan. Anyway, first thing I get to work tomorrow, it's goin in the shop. Long as it's done by 5 o'clock I don't care lol. I'll let the tech handle it and just use this as a learning experience.

Overall I think I did pretty good for a redneck white boy haha.

[LTZ C20]

Found the receipt, I got Felpro oil pan set, part # OS34500R.

[enaberif]

What you need to do is drop the oil pan and measure the depth of the front dip. There are two different sizes and depending on the size will determine the gasket.

I didn't use any rtv or even torque by bolts and I have no leaks at all. But I also made sure my pan flange was dead straight and the surface of the block was wiped down with acetone a few times.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm25/ronger66/engine%20rebuild/Immaginerebuild056.jpg

[LTZ C20]

Got it. I didn't do that but I can tell you for sure that the dip in the gasket was thicker than 1/4 inch.

[enaberif]

Got it. I didn't do that but I can tell you for sure that the dip in the gasket was thicker than 1/4 inch.

Yeah so make sure you confirm the details to make sure you have the right seal. I didn't buy a complete kit when I redid my pan as I bought everything individually.

Also don't forget you had to tweak your timing cover so I'd ensure the flange area for the oil pan seal is a good fit and it isn't too loose either.

[LTZ C20]

Thanks for the pointers guys. I have to do alot of driving tonight and tomorrow, don't have time to fix it so it's in the shop. I can't have it leaking while I'm roaming all over the country side.