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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: BillWill on May 20, 2019, 06:25:09 PM
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I never thought it would be this hard as it is pretty simple process with the exception of just getting to it... I need to replace my valve cover gaskets due to an oil leak but can't seem to get them to come off without removing the EGR valve entirely. I can't seem to get a wrench or socket onto the bolts holding in the EGR valve itself so there has to be a trick of some kind that I am just missing and unable to fine online.
As far as I know everything is stock... 86 K10 with 305/quadrajet
On a side note I was willing to just rip off the old EGR as some have said online but since I can't seem to find any local parts store offering a replacement I'd rather not.
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Try a 1/4" drive, 1/2" flex-socket and extension to remove the EGR valve. Some 1/2" distributor wrenches will work too. Scrape the gasket surface clean then pick up a new EGR gasket and smear it with a light application of ultra-copper high temp silicone just before reassembly.
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so I broke my flex extension (Snap-On no less) and don't have a swivel socket.. I did however find a 3/8 open end wrench in my dads old tool box that was only about 4 inches long which was just about right to fit and allow me a decent angle to crack loose the bolts (glad they were not very tight).
I have never done engine work and just trying to learn as I go but the valve's themselves look pretty good, valve cover doesn't look too bad either but the EGR valve and opening in block look nasty. I also found that 2 of the rockers were just a touch loose when trying to wriggle with my fingers which I assume is also okay?
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forgot the valve pics...
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Depending on where you stopped the engine/stroke, you would have some of the rockers loose. As the engine turns they should tighten. Also as the the engine runs the hydraulic lifters should build pressure and take up the slack.
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Do you have tappet noise when it runs?
Technically, the push rods are adjusted to where there should not be any looseness.
If there is it's because of one or two things:
the hydraulic piston inside the lifter is stuck due to dirt, or
the lifter is just not adjusted correctly.
The motor does not appear to be too gunky as I have seen, so it may be the lifters need adjustment.
While you are in that area, take some time to adjust them.
You will need clips that keep the oil from squirting while you run motor.
I don't have a link, but my bet would be it's on YouTube like everything else is...
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I don't hear any noise beyond a slight squeal on a belt and I've had a couple others who work on vehicles and they say it sounds great so I don't think I have any tappet noise.
-I'll YouTube how to adjust lifters and see what I can do.
Since it seems really hard to find a new EGR valve and there are not as cheap as I assumed I was trying to clean out my old one. Was having a bunch of issues until I realized that PO plugged the L tube connecter with a bb pellet. Once I removed the connector the EGR works just fine (other then still dirty) so now I'm not sure if I should unplug it and actually use it or just close it up with a plate and be done.. thoughts anyone?
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I will say, if you don't have emissions where you are, get a block off plate. I finally removed mine and blocked it off and the engine runs a lot better than with it. No emissions required here.
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Do not adjust the lifters especially by watching random youtubers. Unless you have a problem, leave them alone.
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Summit Racing is pretty reputable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ROU7D-6meY
They should not be loose.
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I don't hear any noise beyond a slight squeal on a belt and I've had a couple others who work on vehicles and they say it sounds great so I don't think I have any tappet noise.
I agree with Vile. If the valvetrain isn't noisy, it makes no sense to experiment.
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I'm good with that, just saying that if they are loose, there has to be a reason. Probably gunk in the lifter pumps...
What was that blue liquid valve lifter cleaner from the 70-80's?
We had a Caddy come through with a lifter that was so loud it sounded like a rod bearing. Sound was too high pitched though.
Used that stuff, drove it home that night, next day- Gone!
Having a semi-senior moment; so for now, Gumbout is your friend!
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Rislone!
Still available, works Great!
Can't remember if the liquid was blue now, but the label is...
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+1 to bedwards and Vile. Not all cylinders stop at the same position in the combustion cycle. If a valve is closed, it is because its lifter is not on the cam lobe, but on the base circle. When the cam rotates, the lobe pushes up the lifter and push rod, which puts tension on the rocker arm, opening the valve. This is where the slack is taken up. At that point, the rocker arm is no longer slack, but rather, very tight.
Do not change anything if the engine was running well, or (no offense) you don't know exactly what you are doing. I say that only because you said you have never done engine work. Take some time and develop an understanding of what is happening in the cam/piston/valvetrain relationship. That is where the internet will come in handy.
On the original matter of the EGR, it is a bit of a pain. You hit upon the method I use to remove it. It's frustrating, but it works. I am replacing my manifold soon with a non-EGR manifold. My truck will be 35 years old when my inspection expires, and will no longer need an inspection to be re-registered.
Have fun with your truck ! Good luck !
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Hydraulic lifters are called that because they pump oil up to the upper valve train.
There is a spring loaded piston/pump with a check valve inside the lifter. It has a preset travel, up and down, inside the body of the lifter.
It is properly adjusted when the nut on top of the rocker arm moves the push rod down against the piston/pump, to a mid point of it's overall travel.
At this point, it has no play when it's on the base lobe or any other point of contact with the cam, by virtue of the spring preload inside the lifter.
If there is play, or a loose rocker arm, there is a reason. They are not supposed to be loose.
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Hydraulic lifters bleed down regardless of setting and preload adjustment. So saying, "oh these are loose and shouldn't be", then tightening them will result in valve clearance that is too tight. You have no idea how many times I've had someone say the same thing and try tightening them up, usually bending a pushrod or creating other issues and then calling me to the rescue... If they aren't noisy, leave it alone.
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I stand by my observation:
In a clean and properly adjusted hydraulic lifter, the spring preload is enough keep the rocker snug to tight, not flopping around.