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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Electrical => Topic started by: Spool on July 06, 2017, 06:12:18 PM

Title: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 06, 2017, 06:12:18 PM
Hey guys.
73' C20 here.

I'm replacing the +/- cables from the battery and wanted to make sure I had the right gauge.
Taking a look at my Wiring Diagram book (X-7305; Picture attached)

It's showing:
2gauge from + to starter.
12gauge from - to sheet metal ground
12 gauge from - to engine.

Why two grounds?
What part of the engine do I ground the battery to?
What does BLK stand for?

Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 06, 2017, 07:24:46 PM
Both the positive and negative battery cables should be 2-gauge copper cables (not aluminum and not copper-clad aluminum).  The negative battery cable typically attaches to the alternator support bracket, but any clean connection directly to the bare metal casting of the block works as well.  However, do not connect the ground cable to an intake manifold bolt.  And, do not use star washers to attach any of the cables.  The 12-gauge ground attaches to the radiator support.  Adding a redundant 12-gauge ground to the right frame rail is a good idea.  In addition, make sure you have a 12-gauge or 10-gauge jumper between the engine (back of right cylinder head on a V-8) and the firewall sheetmetal of the cab.  The heavy 2-gauge battery cables are used for cranking the engine and charging the battery.  The lighter gauge (redundant) ground cables ensure there are uninterrupted ground paths available for the lights and the chassis and cab electrical accessories/appliances, etc.  "BLK" refers to black, the color of the wire insulation.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 06, 2017, 08:04:01 PM
Thanks BD.

I had assumed BLK was black, but isn't it convenient to have you B+ cable to be red?
This was why I didn't purchase new cables at Autozone today. They had proper length in 2 gauge but nothing red; also they all came with preexisting connections which I didn't appreciate.
Would you happen to know where I could pick up 2gauge wire that was color coded and naked so I can make my own connections? I'll be trying Pep Boys in the morning.

If I read your response correctly, I would have 3 redundant grounds which are 12 gauge?
2 from negative terminal going to radiator support and another to sheet metal frame.
1 from back of engine block to the firewall (I have a V8, will I see an existing ground/bolt to go from or is this an extra safety measure?)

Thanks again BD. (Sorry for improper posting, I'll be more aware of the categories for future posts)
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 06, 2017, 09:20:10 PM
What's everybody's favorite source for buying wiring/looms/etc.? (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=30848.msg258895#msg258895)

For short length battery cable runs try the various local parts houses for bulk cable sold by the foot.  For best results, firmly crimp the battery cable ends to the new cables before soldering with 60/40 rosin core solder.  Avoid acid core solder and acid flux as the acid continues to corrode the base metals.  Shrink seal the cable ends using dual or triple wall, adhesive lined, polyolefin shrink tubing.

Grounds are battery-to-engine (2-ga), battery-to-radiator support (10-/12-ga), battery-to-right (passenger side) frame rail (10-/12-ga), engine-to-firewall (10-/12-ga).  All the grounds described should be  preexisting with a possible exception of the B- to frame rail.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 07, 2017, 01:25:43 AM
Thanks man.
I'll take a look at the engine to firewall jumper mentioned; I don't recall seeing one in the past.

Rosin core solder is something I've yet to learn, I'll try my luck at pep boys or home depot to have it cut to size. (Hopefully PepBoys, I don't see HD carrying it)
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 07, 2017, 03:30:11 PM
I may be over thinking this, but the terminals already installed on 2guage wire available at autozone and pep boys look like garbage.

Home Depot carries 2AWG THHN. Similiar to this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-By-the-Foot-2-Black-Stranded-CU-THHN-Wire-20502199/204632781?cm_mmc=SEM%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-Pro-Services&gclid=CjwKEAjw4vzKBRCt9Zmg8f2blgESJADN5fDg2xkAkt0nEX12aqJ69m8g5nf3ESSeAvSxyu40mJa51hoCns_w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Copper is copper right? As long as it's 2AWG, this would do the trick?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 07, 2017, 06:05:45 PM
There is nothing wrong with being analytical.  Here are my thoughts...

THHN possesses decent abrasion, caustic chemical and moisture resistance, but is rated to only ~167° F when used in an environment that exposes the insulation to petroleum oil and coolant.  In addition, THHN is relatively stiff due to lower copper strand count, which might tend to concentrate flex at the tie points of the cable instead of dispersing flex evenly across the cable between tie points, resulting in eventual wire fatigue.  It is so stiff that I think you will be dissatisfied with it.

I recommend SGX or SGT battery cables, or substitute neoprene jacketed welding cable if you have it laying about.  SGX insulation is manufactured from cross-linked polyethylene, possessing exceptional abrasion, caustic chemical and moisture resistance, is specified for harsh marine environments and is suitable for operating temperatures up to ~255° F; whereas SGT is made from PVC thermoplastic, is rated for 185° F environments and is typical for automotive use - both are priced similarly and if readily available, SGX should be your first choice.  [You may find this short You-Tube video interesting:  All About Battery Cable: SGT, SGX & STX (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nhhU20VSCQ) as well as SGT/SGR/SGX Battery Cable (http://www.southwire.com/products/SGTSGRSGXBatteryCable.htm).  In addition, if you decide to fabricate your own cables, How to Make Battery Cables the Easy Way! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkMdlPsBxkc) is a decent "How To" for do-it-yourselfers who don't have the specialized battery cable crimping tools - my primary contention being the choice of heat shrink tubing in the video.  As previously stated, use dual- or triple-wall, adhesive lined polyolefin heat shrink].  However, buying the materials to fabricate your own cables is pricey when compared to buying prefabbed cables.  If you are merely adverse to the "look" of available prefab battery cables, you can always clip and replace the ends.  Frankly, decent cables from O'Reilly's or NAPA, etc. should suffice for a long while.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 11, 2017, 02:14:42 PM
Thanks BD.

Ebay seems to fit the bill of allowing me to purchase just a few feet.
black - http://www.ebay.com/itm/302066246957?item=302066246957&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
red - http://www.ebay.com/itm/SGX-2-GA-gauge-BLACK-engine-starter-Automotive-alternator-battery-ground-cable-/291753839739?epid=782531951&hash=item43ede24c7b:g:4gsAAOSwKfVXJ3wC&vxp=mtr

I was surprised to see the Red cost 4 times the price of black but so be it.

I'll be doing this this week or so.
Do you think it's easier to drop the starter to re-cable it or try to get behind the headers as is?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 11, 2017, 04:34:57 PM
I was surprised to see the Red cost 4 times the price of black but so be it....

Do you think it's easier to drop the starter to re-cable it or try to get behind the headers as is?

The price differential is because the red SGX cable you linked is high strand count 2/0 (aka 00) gauge cable, not 2-gauge.  Red and black 2-ga SGX cable should sell at the same price from a given vendor.

Your question on ease of installation is difficult to answer w/o seeing the exhaust configuration with which you're working.  If the battery cable is in close proximity to the exhaust header, anchor it away from the exhaust and any sources of chafing using Adelle clamps, then consider thermally insulating it with Thermo-Sleeve (https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/thermo-tec/product-line/thermo-tec-thermo-sleeve-protectors?autoview=SKU&ibanner=SREPD5&N=4294950823%2B4294794002%2B4294794001) or similar tubing.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 12, 2017, 12:33:58 PM
Thermo Sleeve seems like a good idea considering it's only about an inch or two from the headers.

Thanks for pointing out the 2/0 vs 2.

I'm scratching my head on the availability of red though, particularly because in seeking Red for the B+ in any length turns up to be wholesale
opposed to BLK which is abundant per foot.

Let's say I go BLK for both +/-, of course I'll know which cable is which and I'm assuming a mechanic would as well.
I was thinking maybe Red electrical tape along the B+ cable but electrical tape is rated at 176F.
If I use BLK for both +/- and call it a day, I guess an extra safety precaution could be the B+ has the Thermal Sleeve.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 12, 2017, 04:52:14 PM
LOL!  Now, you're overthinking!   :)   Even a noob mechanic should readily distinguish between B+ and B- cables, or (s)he should be doing something else.   ;D   

Black jackets for both cables are standard.  You can always use red, triple-wall, adhesive lined, polyolefin heat shrink to finish and distinguish the positive cable at its terminal ends if that custom touch is important to you.   8)

Still, if you're patient and search "SGX 2 gauge red," you are bound to have a few hits for cut-to-length or short-length cable (e.g., Wirebarn (https://www.wirebarn.com/2-AWG-SGX-STARTER-CABLE-AND-BATTERY-CABLE--RED-_p_610.html), AWC (http://www.awcwire.com/part.aspx?partname=sgx-2), Advance MCS (https://www.advancemcs.com/sps/auto-accessories/power-inverters/inverter-cables/sp_620/2_gauge_red), etc. - no endorsements expressed or implied).
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 12, 2017, 05:26:25 PM
Haha. Alright. Sold.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SGX-2-GA-gauge-BLACK-engine-starter-Automotive-alternator-battery-ground-cable-/291753839739?epid=782531951&hash=item43ede24c7b:g:4gsAAOSwKfVXJ3wC&vxp=mtr

Thanks again man.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 20, 2017, 02:13:52 PM
Cable arrived today; looks great.
Before I replace, I was curious to know if my starter stores a voltage at all even after disconnecting the battery? Any caution needed when touching?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 20, 2017, 03:05:33 PM
dang, now I'm just embarrassed of my learning curve and condition of my wiring.
I've attached photos.

I guess first up, is I need to take the starter out to see what I'm doing.
Is it these two bolts on the bottom shown in my first photo only or is there a third?

The, on my Battery terminal, from this angle I notice there is a second connection asides from my B+. What is it and where is it going?
(The black one in the top of the second photo)

Lastly, my header has damaging my cable going to, shown in the 3rd photo. Is this the connection going to my solenoid winding terminal?
Clearly is still working and from past posts here I know it would have to be fabricated to be replaced. Could I insulate it with clean electrical tape and a thermal sleeve?

Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 20, 2017, 05:05:48 PM
I spy with my little eye... several "looming" issues.  lol

The wiring has been modified and shortcut.  Battery cable routing needs to be corrected.  You need to procure and install a starter heat shield (or, less optimally, wrap the individual header pipes in close proximity to the starter).

The starter does not retain any electrical charge.  The two 9/16" head bolts you imaged, fasten the starter to the engine - an optional third attachment point (a small support bracket linking the front of the starter to the engine block) is absent.  Before removing the starter or performing any wiring repairs, disconnect the negative cable from the battery.  I will follow up with more details, hopefully this evening.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 21, 2017, 11:56:21 AM
Route and clamp the positive cable and primary starter wiring parallel to the oil pan, between the oil pan and motor mount bracket.  For example...

(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36846;image)


A starter heat shield will help shroud the solenoid and starter motor from direct, radiant exhaust heat...

(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36848;image)


An effective trim-to-fit fabric substitute for a rigid factory heat shield is available from Design Engineering (DEI) (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010402).

Do you have a conventional (points and condenser) distributor, or has it been upgraded to HEI?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 21, 2017, 01:18:50 PM
Your help is invaluable.

2 bolts taking out the starter. Check.
Anything to know when replacing it?

Running the B+ along the oil pan is a great idea. Thank you.
The heat shield is also very cool. I'll order when the next check comes in; Monday perhaps.

I'd have to take a closer look at the distributor, but my guess is stock at this moment. Will this change my configuration?

I'll be taking the starter out once I have all the parts, heat shield, 3/8ths connections for the new 2gauge wire...
But until then, I'm not able to trace the other wire sitting on the battery terminal behind my B+ on the solenoid.
It's black, any guess as to what it is, or maybe its part of the 3 or 4 wires electric taped together going to the distributor that is sitting too close to my header?
I was under the impression that the B+ was independent on that terimnal and the others where to come from the solenoid winding terminal.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 21, 2017, 02:29:15 PM
Original equipment conventional distributors and later model HEI are wired differently.  If it has conventional ignition, decide now whether you want to upgrade and we will address the wiring accordingly.  In addition, does the instrument cluster have original factory gauges with an ammeter (this also affects wiring configuration)?  If it has an ammeter, does the ammeter work?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 22, 2017, 02:27:44 PM
I've attached a photo of the distributor. Delco-Remy but I'm not sure if it's original or HEI.
For now, I'd like to keep it as to avoid more expenses on an upgrade.

The instrument cluster does have original factory gauges the only gauge that works is the oil pressure/speedometer.
I have an separate temp gauge below that I monitor on hot days, but that's it.
The Ammeter has never worked.

Can you tell if it's stock or HEI?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 22, 2017, 06:06:48 PM
The good news is that the ignition has been upgraded to HEI!   :)   You now have the added minor step of determining whether the wiring was upgraded to match it.  Disregarding the short, pink/black/brown three-wire jumper that connects the cap to the distributor housing, what is(are) the wire color(s) and gauge(s) that connect(s) the engine harness to the BAT terminal of the distributor cap (the BAT terminal is clearly labeled on the top, driver side of the cap)?


If you clean the wires connected to the starter solenoid, you should be able to coordinate the wire colors with the labels in the following image...

(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36879;image)

Is the wire labeled "YELLOW," in fact, yellow or is it black?
Unwrap the tape from the wire bundle about eight inches back from the starter.  Is the wire labeled "14-GA FUSIBLE LINK" spliced to a 12-gauge red wire?


Referring to the following image, what color is the wire that is circled?

(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36881;image)

Do you want to try to restore ammeter function if it is a simple matter of wiring?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 22, 2017, 08:37:08 PM
Wow! Thank you for taking the time on this.

I will do this tomorrow. If I have as much trouble identifying the wires as I did taking the photos, I'll have to take the starter out to get a better look.

I've read stories of it being a bit of pain to get back in; is there anything to consider when reinstalling the starter? Anything that needs to be lined up a certain way?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 22, 2017, 09:44:49 PM
If I have as much trouble identifying the wires as I did taking the photos, I'll have to take the starter out to get a better look.

Disconnect the battery ground cable then use a compact mirror.

I've read stories of it being a bit of pain to get back in; is there anything to consider when reinstalling the starter? Anything that needs to be lined up a certain way?

Don't let it fall on your head!   8)    If there are any shims between the starter and engine block, retain them for reinstallation.  Install and snug both starter bolts finger tight before tightening them down.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 22, 2017, 10:25:40 PM
Cool, I'll try the compact mirror first.

If I absolutely have to remove it I will of course disconnect the battery.
I was thinking more of when I place it, do I need to place it in any particular way. As example/analogy... are there pins that need to align or does it just go right in?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 22, 2017, 10:29:09 PM
Starter installation is very forgiving.  The only alignment is on the mounting bolt holes - and shims if any were removed.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 23, 2017, 09:50:56 PM
I was able to get in there without taking the starter out. It was fun; familiarizing myself with everything.

The wires are cooked behind the header/near the solenoid.
Unwrapping the electrical tape was more like braking it off in pieces. Very old and brittle.

I pulled it back all the way to the alternator to see if I could get a clean look on the wires, but they are
beyond legible; even after trying to clean off years of grease and glue.

The 5 main cables going from the starter (Not including the 2gauge+ from battery) run up past my alternator and back towards the distributor where it splits off.

There are:
2 Yellow (both of which are clipped) both small gauges, maybe 16 or 18. One of which was the one you had circled. It is indeed yellow when I cleaned it.
1 Yellow/Black?, maybe 14 gauge that runs to the solenoid.
1 Purple/Black?, maybe 8 or 10 gauge that also runs to the solenoid.
1 Red that runs to the Battery terminal.

I ended up re-taping them afterwards for now and thankfully it started up again for the time being.

This really helps me understand why my Starter works when it wants to while sometimes needing a little shake of the cables to get it going.



Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 24, 2017, 09:48:52 PM
(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36893;image)

^^^ Try using aerosol carb cleaner and a disposable rag to wipe the insulation clean.  The clipped and abandoned yellow wires are probably 20-gauge and originally part of the ignition primary wiring.  The wire labeled "yellow or black to solenoid" I suspect is actually 16-gauge black for the ammeter.  The purple wire is 12-gauge coming from the ignition switch to energize the starter solenoid.  The red is the 10-gauge B+ feed into the cab and to the alternator.


(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36895;image)

^^^ The yellow semi-translucent bulge in the red wire is the factory splice with a 6" long, 14-gauge fusible link that attaches to the B+ stud on the solenoid.  Plan on replacing that fusible link.  Arc damage and discoloration at the B+ stud on the solenoid suggests the battery cable was/is loose.  The previously mentioned black wire for the ammeter will reconnect to the B+ solenoid stud through a 6" long, 20-gauge fusible link along with the battery cable and the red 10-gauge B+ feed to the cab.


(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36897;image)

^^^ You will need to remove the tape from the harness all the way back to the firewall bulkhead connector.  I know, it's a PITA!


(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36899;image)

^^^ More than likely the 20-gauge yellow wires running between the starter, distributor and bulkhead connector will need to be stripped out and a new 12-gauge wire running between the bulkhead connector and distributor will need to be substituted.  This will ensure that the HEI system receives suitable primary power.


Please post pics of the firewall junction block (above the transmission dipstick) and the bulkhead connector (left of the steering column).  There remain questions concerning the ammeter circuit configuration and whether it has been altered.  Do you have a test light and VOM?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: blazer74 on July 24, 2017, 10:14:18 PM
Wow! Thank you for taking the time on this.

I will do this tomorrow. If I have as much trouble identifying the wires as I did taking the photos, I'll have to take the starter out to get a better look.

I've read stories of it being a bit of pain to get back in; is there anything to consider when reinstalling the starter? Anything that needs to be lined up a certain way?


Your getting some seriously good help.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 26, 2017, 07:45:48 PM
Alright! Thank you again BD!
I'm growing in confidence over here between your help and making my way through the wires.

I've attached photos for easier communication but here's the break down of the 5 wires coming from the Starter.

2 Yellow wires that were clipped. (One is a smaller than the other)
-The smaller yellow goes all the way to the bottom left insert of the Bulkhead.
-The larger yellow goes to split. One to a pink wire going to the bulk and the other to a different yellow, going to the distributor cap. This split is in terrible condition as you'll see.
(This pink wire is actually labeled "Resistance Do Not Cut")

1 Red wire from Battery Terminal on Starter goes to my Junction box.

1 Purple wire goes to my bulkhead. Inserted in the bottom right.

1 Black wire goes to my bulkhead. Inserted in the top left. It also has something inline.

My bulkhead is filthy. Is there a way to clean it?
My wiring diagram is a significant help as I can't find anything labeled on the actual wires.

Side note (There was a small green clipped wire as well, it was harnessed with the single yellow wire going to the distributor cap.)
When I followed it back, it went to the bulkhead.)

Thanks again BD. I'm very grateful.
I'm thinking once these 5 wires are identified gauge wise, I can replace each one separately. What do you think?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 26, 2017, 07:50:48 PM
In using the wiring diagram to help determine the gauges, would the Purple wire be in slot "2E" of the bulk connector?

I've attached a few schematics that have helped me wrap my head around this.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 26, 2017, 10:13:32 PM
Get on your mark!  Ready....  Set....  Using the factory circuit numbers so you can tie this discussion to your factory wiring manual:  the heavy red wire feeding power to the firewall junction block from the starter B+ post is 10-ga, circuit (ckt) 2D, labeled on the diagram as 10 R-2D.  Ckt 2D is protected by a 6" long, 14-ga fusible link at the B+ post.  This is important, because you will need to replace the fusible link mimicking the technique described in VileZambonie's technical thread, How to make a Fusible Link (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=11972.0).  The factory fusible link has been compromised and cannot be trusted to be serviceable. 

Note - for the best results I recommend that you use non-insulated, plated copper electrical terminals.  All terminal ends and splices will need to be crimped and soldered using 60/40 rosin core solder.  In addition, ring-terminal ends and butt-splices will need to be insulated using dual-wall, adhesive lined, polyolefin (marine) heat shrink (such as Harbor Freight 67598 (https://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html) or similar).

The larger "clipped" yellow wire from the starter is 20-ga ckt 7B; the 3-way splice (yellow/yellow/pink) is "SPLICE 3-7" on the diagram, linking ckts 7A, 7B and 3; ckt 3 is a pink, 1.35-ohm resistance wire originally intended to power a conventional ignition system without burning the distributor points.  The entire 7A/7B/3 wire section needs to be stripped out and replaced with a 12-gauge (preferably pink) wire that runs from the bulkhead connector directly to the HEI "BAT" terminal - it will no longer run down to the starter.  You will unbolt and remove the bulkhead connector from the engine compartment side then remove and replace the complete distributor feed wire ckt 3, using new terminal ends.  The wires mating to ckt 3 inside the cab are already 12-gauge, so no further attention will be needed.

The 12-ga purple wire (ckt 6) energizes the solenoid during engine cranking and will be left alone as long as the terminal end at the solenoid is undamaged.  However, the 16-ga black wire sharing the solenoid "S" terminal with ckt 6 will be moved and reconnected to the solenoid B+ stud through a 6"-8" long, 20-ga fusible link; the black wire is ckt 105B, shunting a small amount of current through the dash ammeter.  The length of the fusible link has a direct impact on ammeter calibration.  The bulge in ckt 105B is an inline fuse holder for a SFE 4 amp fuse, installed to protect the ammeter.  More than likely you will need to replace the fuse.  However (don't you just hate "howevers?"), ckt 105B is only one-half of the ammeter circuit.  The mating half, ckt 106A, should connect to the firewall junction block through a redundant 4-amp fuse.  Now, you need to take inventory of the wire connections to the firewall junction block and enlighten me where they run and connect.

The "clipped" dark green wire that you discovered near the distributor is the temperature gauge sender lead ckt 35.  Extend ckt 35 to the temperature gauge sending unit using a dark green 18-ga wire.  The sender should be located in the left cylinder head, between spark plugs #1 and #3.  If the sender is missing, it is obsolete from all but a very few sources.  Read through Correct temperature sender and connector for 1973-1978 C/K trucks (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=27971.0) for more information.

The smaller of the two yellow wires at the solenoid remains in question - does the fuel gauge work?

I think I covered your last update.  Any questions?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 26, 2017, 10:36:25 PM
Okay. If you read my last response; I deleted the panic I had in not being able to get the truck to start after straining the poor connections these past two days and familiarized myself with everything you said. I'll be doing this tomorrow morning after going to Autozone.

For starters.
A fusible link is nothing more than a wire 2 gauges smaller than the main wire for safety?

I'm a bit confused on the ckt's though.
Am I interpreting the wire diagram correctly when placing them side by side as shown in my photo attached or is it upside down making my second photo correct?

Also, what are the terminals for the Bulk Connector. As you can see, mine is full of crud. Can I clean this?
I just took the bolt out of the center and the two under the dash to see the nest of wires.
Am I to run the wire through the firewall and connect from inside the cab or connect right to the bulk?

Lastly, just to confirm tomorrow's actions.

From the Battery Terminal which is 3/8th's in size.
(1) 14gauge @ 6'' fusible link > 10g Red wire to Junction.

(1) 20gauge @ 8'' fusible link > 16g Black wire > SFE 4 AMP Fuse > ckt105 in Bulkhead. {I've noticed the wire diagram states 18gauge. Should I go 18?}

From the Solenoid Terminal which is 1/4'' in size.
(1) 12gauge > ckt6 in Bulkhead.

From the Distributor Cap to Bulkhead.
(1) 12gauge preferably pink > ckt3 {Is the 12gauge also 1.35 OMH Res?}

Thank you again BD.
I'll be tackling the gauges and junction box after I get the truck started again.
In the meantime I need to learn to solder and pick up some stuff in the morning.

Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 27, 2017, 12:28:06 AM
Amazing. Thank you sir. This certainly is enough for me to get busy.
One thing I've always wondered, which I'd like to confirm. The junction box gets it's power from the B+ off the starter?  Correct

Sadly, I've shaken this starter wires more than they had wished to be shaken as they held on for dear life and now
I can't start the truck. Battery is fine, so I know it's the terrible connections on the starter.

So I need a priority list.

Tomorrow morning, I'll be going to Autozone to grab a few terminal ends.
I know the Battery Terminal is 3/8ths but have to grab the nut to measure the solenoid terminal.  #8 ring
And wire wise I'll need...
12 gauge for the purple end.  by #8 ring
16 gauge for the black end.  18-ga, remember you will install a 20-ga fusible link - The black wire is not part of the crank circuit, so can be ignored for the interim.
2 gauge for the B+  by 3/8" ring

With that, I'll replace the Battery cable itself which I've been waiting to do until I had all the parts.
And do a quick fix on the burnt out wire ends attached to the starter.

I gotta get the truck running for work now.
And then study and take my time to do the job right this upcoming weekend or next week.

Do you think the priorities are straight?

Don't forget the solder and marine heat shrink.  BTW - most parts houses will try to sell you PVC heat shrink - sadly, they don't know the difference and will tell you it's all the same, or "That's what everybody uses."  Ignore anyone who tells you that and question any other "assurances" they may claim.  Don't waste your money on PVC shrink tubing.

Pick up a small assortment of 18-ga, 16-14-ga, and 12-10-ga ring terminals and butt splices.  Don't forget the clamps to secure the new battery cable along the oil pan, away from the exhaust and motor mount.  For any other needed materials, review this entire thread.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 27, 2017, 12:59:17 AM
I've broken the mojo of our correspondence by editing my last post.

I'm trying to determine if I need any connectors for the Bulkhead.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Irish_Alley on July 27, 2017, 07:27:45 AM
where did you get that wiring diagram?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 27, 2017, 01:28:40 PM
where did you get that wiring diagram?

Hey Irish. That wiring diagram is from the 1973 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams book. X-7305.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 27, 2017, 01:54:39 PM
A fusible link is nothing more than a wire 2 gauges smaller than the main wire for safety?

Not correct!  Fusible wire is manufactured from a special alloy conductor that is jacketed by special high-temperature, non-flammable insulation.  It is a flexible, high current, slow-blow fuse that provides primary circuit protection - meaning that ofttimes there is supplemental fast acting circuit protection in the form of fuses or circuit breakers downstream from the fusible link.  The fusible link is analogous to the main circuit breaker in a building that feeds subordinate breakers protecting the individual circuits.  Collectively, fusible links provide the primary electrical protection for the vehicle.

The formula for correctly sizing a fusible link is to use link that is four (4) wire gauges smaller than the wire it is intended to protect.  Industry wide and even across industries, fusible links are cut to 6" length, regardless of gauge.  Thus, 10-ga wire is protected by a 6" long, 14-ga fusible link; 12-ga wire is protected by a 6" long, 16-ga fusible link; 14-ga wire is protected by a 6" long, 18-gauge fusible link; 16-ga wire is protected by a 6" long, 20-ga fusible link and so on.  Rarely, there exist special circumstances that slightly modify the given formulae for both gauge selection and length.


Am I interpreting the wire diagram correctly when placing them side by side as shown in my photo attached or is it upside down making my second photo correct?
(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36951;image)

^^^^ This image is correct.  The schematic illustrates the connectors from the terminal side.


Also, what are the terminals for the Bulk[head] Connector. As you can see, mine is full of crud. Can I clean this?
I just took the bolt out of the center and the two under the dash to see the nest of wires.
Am I to run the wire through the firewall and connect from inside the cab or connect right to the bulk?

The terminals needed either will be male or female, depending on which side of the bulkhead connector you are servicing.  To replace ckt 3 between the bulkhead and distributor requires Packard Series 56 male (for bulkhead) and female (for distributor) terminals matched to the gauge of the wire, or 12-gauge terminals (following images).  Twelve gauge terminals of this type may be difficult to procure, locally.  You will also need a Series 56 connector to mate with the distributor.  In addition, you will need a good pair of wire crimpers.  To remove Series 56 male terminals, squeeze the spade end of the terminal across its edges, forcing the terminal to narrow, then pull straight out on the wire.

(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36957;image) 
(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36959;image)

The "crud" encasing the connector is hardened antioxidant/sealer encrusted with dust.  It is unsightly, but harmless.  I recommend leaving it in place, except where it could interfere with electrical continuity.  To remove the sealer, douse the connector repeatedly with carburetor spray and use a nylon bristle brush.  It will make a mess and stain any clothing it contacts.  Repack the connector with fresh antioxidant paste during reassembly to ensure moisture rejection.

To disassemble the bulkhead connector, remove only the center bolt on the engine compartment side.  Backing the bolt out should force the connector apart without prying.


From the Battery Terminal which is 3/8th's in size.
(1) 14gauge @ 6'' fusible link > 10g Red wire to Junction.  CORRECT

(1) 20gauge @ 8'' fusible link > 16g Black wire > SFE 4 AMP Fuse > ckt105 in Bulkhead. {I've noticed the wire diagram states 18gauge. Should I go 18?}  YOU ARE NOT REPLACING THE INLINE FUSE HOLDER INTO THE BULKHEAD CONNECTOR, MERELY ADDING A 20-GAUGE FUSIBLE LINK TO THE END OF THE 16-GA BLACK AT THE STARTER B+ SOLENOID STUD.  OTHERWISE, YOUR STATEMENT IS CORRECT.

From the Solenoid Terminal which is 1/4'' in size.  THE "S" TERMINAL IS NOT 1/4" - 1/4" IS TOO LARGE!  IT IS #8 OR #10 MACHINE THREAD.
(1) 12gauge > ckt6 in Bulkhead.  AGAIN, THERE IS NO NEED TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE WIRE.

From the Distributor Cap to Bulkhead.
(1) 12gauge preferably pink > ckt3 {Is the 12gauge also 1.35 OHM Res?}  THE ORIGINAL FACTORY PINK IS A RESISTANCE WIRE.  THE SUBSTITUTE YOU ARE FABRICATING IS NOT.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 27, 2017, 02:12:44 PM
Thanks BD.

So for the interim due to the resources I have in the moment...

Is it okay to pull the split 3-7, and patch the pink from the bulk connector into the 12gauge yellow from the distributor cap for now?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 27, 2017, 03:34:18 PM
You can clip away the yellow that comes from the starter, tape the splice and run it for the interim.  It just limits the power available to the ignition system.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 27, 2017, 03:55:23 PM
Okay. Should I splice the Pink from the Bulk directly into the Yellow off the distributor cap for the interim as well?

Also, Autozone has nothing desirable which means I'll be ordering mainly from online and will have to wait for some parts.

I have zinc ring terminals for now and a 14 gauge fusible link 9'' in length which will allow me to repair/replace the 10gauge Red B+ to the Junction today.

However, they didn't have a 20gauge fusible link for my Black wire to the solenoid, which is in certain need of repair.
Nor did they have 20gauge wire at all. For the interim would you go straight to the solenoid or try and finesse and electric tape the connection as is?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 27, 2017, 04:43:46 PM
 ???


(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36941;image)

^^^^  Splice 3-7 already exists.  Why cut it out only to resplice it?  Just clip off the extraneous small yellow run down to the starter and tape the splice to insulate it until you have the logistics sorted to replace the complete wire (ckt 3) into the bulkhead.  If the engine has been running that way, why reinvent the hack only to replace it later?  Or, am I missing something?

Until you receive the 20-gauge fusible link (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5557pt/overview/), just leave the black wire disconnected.  Tape it up out of the way.  Leaving it disconnected until the ammeter circuit is reestablished should have no significant effect.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 27, 2017, 06:14:16 PM
Copy that on the black wire awaiting the 20gauge fusible link.

I must have miss-read the initial direction about the 3-7 Splice.
Originally, I thought I was to remove the the splice due to the condition it's in.

Cutting the yellow to the starter is easy and done.
But I was under the impression that I could take ckt 3 straight into the distributor cap as a clean connection.
Because as of now it goes bulk ckt3>pink>poor splice to think yellow gauge>poor butt connection to thicker 12 gauge yellow into distributor cap.

 The picture I attached isn't great, but it almost appears as if it's female spade.
So my thought was, if so than just cut the pink straight into the distributor cap with a female spade
Or, if it's in fact a Series 56, then just butt connect the pink to the yellow directly (for now) as to not have the poor existing splice and poor butt connection that currently exist.

Good idea/Bad idea/too novice to try and come up with workarounds?
Title: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: blazer74 on July 27, 2017, 07:50:13 PM
.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 27, 2017, 08:41:49 PM
I was under the impression that I could take ckt 3 straight into the distributor cap as a clean connection.
Because as of now it goes bulk ckt3>pink>poor splice to think yellow gauge>poor butt connection to thicker 12 gauge yellow into distributor cap.

So my thought was, if so than just cut the pink straight into the distributor cap with a female spade

For a temporary repair, you can do exactly as you're thinking if in your judgement it's a prudent response, assuming of course the pink wire (ckt 3) is long enough.  Just bear in mind that the existing pink wire is a resistance wire that will consume (waste) approximately 7 volts - as in decrease the voltage supplied to the distributor by 7 volts.  This means the HEI system will attempt to function on one-half of the voltage is was designed to use.  Try running on one leg.  It may work over the short course, but is less than optimum.  Over the long run, the engine may experience random misfire.

As you've observed, the terminal in the cap is standard 1/4" spade.  The advantage in using the OE Series 56 terminal over the long term is that it will maintain a constant pressure connection regardless of temperature, while the OE connector will lock into the distributor cap and prevent the B+ lead from inadvertently being dislodged.

There is a caveat regarding the bulkhead connector.  The Series 56 male terminal is captive to the style of terminal retention designed into the connector housing.  No other style of terminal is a suitable replacement.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 27, 2017, 11:29:27 PM
Alright! Got the truck running with the resources available.
For now, I had to crimp and tape as I need to research/learn/purchase soldering gear and heat shrink gun.

I've attached photos of the work completed. Starts better than it did before.
Turns out the reason the truck stopped running last night was the ring terminal of the B+ from the battery snapped off.

So next up is ordering a 20gauge fusible link and a SFE 4 AMP fuse for the Black wire on ckt105
-https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5557pt?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-pico-wiring&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnubLBRC_ARIsAASsNNkWULzMj06nChsiM3z8fbXbQMWorGnSzofGLq3_z2Xiac2jMyzv6C0aAvvCEALw_wcB
-https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bss-sfe4
Do you think those two items will do the trick?

I'm about to order the heatshrink wrap you recommended.
I took notice to the heatshrink gun on the same page; I'll be ordering that as well. $13 isn't bad at all.

I'm gonna grab some Thermal Sleeves for the wires to the starter as they are only an inch away from my headers.
Do you think this would be a wise choice?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-2584

Soldering wise, VileZambonie's post was very informative.
I'm new to this, anything to consider in a soldering iron? Or is a $20 soldering iron on Summit going to do the trick?

With all that. I'll complete the Black wire on ckt105 to my Battery Terminal on the Starter when the parts arrive.
And then move on to the 3-7 Splice. (Which I ended up leaving and keeping as you suggested. I'm not sure I fully understand it's function as of yet, but do want to ensure
the distributor gets all the power needed like you had mentioned.)

BD.... Thank you again, so very much for all your help on this. I'm very grateful and just want you to know that I appreciate your time and knowledge.
Thank you again.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 28, 2017, 12:55:15 AM
Repairing ckt 105 and replacing the 4-amp fuse is only one-half of the ammeter circuit.  You still need to inventory the wires connecting to the junction block and report - one of the wires should be ammeter ckt 106 protected by a redundant 4-amp fuse.  In other words, there is more to do to restore ammeter function.

The thermal sleeve you linked is probably too small for the B+ cable and associated starter wiring.  Consider using a larger size, say 3/4" - 1" inside diameter.  In addition, consider rotating the battery cable ~180° so the cable exits the solenoid pointing away from the exhaust.  Don't forget to secure the cable to prevent burning and chafing.

A decent soldering gun for general electrical repair is the Weller 8200, 100/140w (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-100-Watt-140-Watt-Soldering-Gun-Kit-8200PKS/100085564).

And then move on to the 3-7 Splice. (Which I ended up leaving and keeping as you suggested. I'm not sure I fully understand it's function as of yet, but do want to ensure
the distributor gets all the power needed like you had mentioned.)

What don't you grasp?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 28, 2017, 01:57:40 PM
Just ordered the parts and tools.

My confusion with the pink res wire is the set up. Originally, Pink was/is the source to a split going to the starter and the distributor.
But if the source is resistant, how does the distributor compensate for the wasted power? Also, does the distributor have two connections under the cap? One for spade and one for 56 Series?
In the end, what should this wire configuration look like when I approach it?

Also, had a thought while browsing for thermal sleeves online.
Considering my headers are rusty and not particular nice to look at. Could I use thermal wrap to wrap the headers?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: blazer74 on July 28, 2017, 07:40:21 PM
12 volts from the starter for starting via the yellow wire only for starting.

Pink Resistance wire takes over for normal run to prevent burning the the points.
Points don't require full 12 volts.

The other terminal on the distributor cap is for the tach if used.

Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on July 28, 2017, 09:23:32 PM
Great questions!

Here is a more thorough discussion.  Conventional ignition and High Energy Ignition (HEI) systems are different technologies, having different power requirements.  Conventional ignition uses a mechanical switch (the points) that directly cycles ignition spark to the plugs by turning power to the ignition coil on and off.  HEI relies on a magnetic pulse to trigger a transistor that controls power to the coil.  With conventional ignition, coil control is mechanical (the points).  With HEI, coil control is electronic (pickup coil and module).  Mechanical points arc when they open, resulting in wear from burning and pitting.  HEI doesn't suffer from internal arcing, so there is no wear.

To extend point life, conventional ignition restricts current flow through the points and coil to ~3 amps by limiting the voltage applied across the ignition coil primary winding to ~8.5 volts - which produces reliable spark energy to about 4,500 engine RPM.  On the other hand, HEI doesn't suffer from the limitation imposed by point arcing, hence, HEI earns no benefit from limiting coil current.  Instead, HEI applies full primary voltage (~14 volts while the engine is running) across the ignition coil, which increases primary coil current to ~5 amps, extending reliable spark energy to about 7,000 engine RPM.  Effectively, conventional ignition systems consume roughly 37% of the power used by HEI. 

Well, the method that conventional ignition systems use to limit coil primary voltage is to add resistance into the coil B+ lead - hence (referring now to the factory wiring diagram), the pink, 1.35 ohm resistance wire (ckt 3) that feeds power to the ignition coil. 

However, vehicle system voltage while cranking, prior to the engine actually starting, is effectively less than battery voltage (12.6 volts, versus 14.2 volts provided by the charging system once the engine is running).  To compensate for the decreased voltage available while cranking, the yellow wire (ckt 7A/7B) connected to "relay" terminal "R" of the starter solenoid bypasses ckt 3 and provides full battery voltage directly to the coil ...but only while cranking.  Once the engine starts, power transfer through the coil reverts through the resistance wire.

The problem that occurs when converting from conventional ignition to HEI is the resistance wire preexisting in the harness.  If the resistance wire is not replaced with a standard copper wire, HEI performance will be severely limited.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Both terminals in the cap are 1/4" spade.  As Blazer explained, one is B+ in to power the ignition (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g5213), the other is Tachometer signal out, when used.  The Tach terminal has a keying boss molded into the cap that prevents insertion of the B+ lead in the wrong position.  The factory style Series 56 connectors lock into the cap.  Typically the B+ connector is black, gray or natural, the Tach connector is most often brown and has a keying slot that matches the boss in the cap...

(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36992;image)

Occasionally, the B+ and Tach connectors are siamesed...

(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36994;image)

Factory style connectors use Series 56 female terminals.  To remove the terminals from the connectors use a flat blade pocket screwdriver or a terminal removal tool (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25228)...

(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=36996;image)

Thermal sleeve is not intended to wrap headers.  For that specific purpose use header wrap (https://www.summitracing.com/search?PageSize=100&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=header%20wrap).
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on July 30, 2017, 03:04:54 PM
Wow, super informative. Thank you both, it allowed me to spot a few doors (youtube videos) to familiarize myself further on the matter.

So having HEI allows more reliable spark energy at a higher rpm than conventional in addition to not having any moving parts which also allows the elimination of arcing.
If I'm understanding this correctly, I no longer need a resistance going to the HEI distributor but a solid copper connection for full power from ckt3 which the distributor will rely
on after receiving it's initial power from my solenoid on my starter?

Further, the Y12guage wire currently plugged into the distributor cap is using the inside terminal closest to the firewall. The remaining terminal, would be for my tachometer? Which is currently not connected to anything explaining why my in-dash tachometer doesn't work?

Is this correct?
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on August 04, 2017, 02:42:56 PM
Hey BD,

May I ask where you buy your copper ring terminals?
I've been looking around and see that it's very common for anything smaller than 2 or 4 gauge to be mixed with tin.

I found this site:
http://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Terminals/_/N-5g5u?P=1z0z25hZ1z0xbvs

What is the benefit of 100% copper?

Thanks man.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on August 04, 2017, 05:07:56 PM
Plated copper, copper/tin alloy, plated brass - any of these will work just fine.  Alloyed copper improves ductility and hardness of the terminal while plating inhibits oxidation and improves solder adhesion.  I generally use "tinned" copper, closed barrel, brazed seam terminals.  Brazing makes the barrel of the terminal essentially a solid wall cylinder, which provides better clamping of the wire and better shape retention of the terminal barrel once crimped.  Mechanical crimping of the terminal onto the bare wire always precedes soldering.  Ofttimes, rather than buying bare terminals in quantity, I procure insulated terminals locally and simply strip off the insulating sleeve (image).  If you prefer to buy in greater quantities or need hard to find materials, look back through this thread for the link to retailers that I posted previously.

FYI - outside of special applications, avoid precious metal and high temperature terminals.  Although silver has a slight conductivity edge over copper, silver tarnishes quickly.  And, copper is a better conductor than gold at reduced cost.  High temperature terminals generally are plated with nickel and don't solder well.  Use ~0.030" diameter Sn60/Pb40, Sn63/Pb37, or Sn70/Pb30 rosin core solder for most electrical repair applications.  Silver bearing solder up to ~4% can be used to repair printed circuit boards where standing wave vibrations otherwise shear solder joints.  The silver imparts a subtle increase in tensile and shear strength to the joint.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: blazer74 on August 05, 2017, 02:50:51 AM
With HEI no need for the yellow starter wire to the distributor. Circuit 3 takes the place of the resistance wire with full voltage if you have removed/bypassed the resistance wire to circuit 3 and replaced with  a 12 gauge wire.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on August 05, 2017, 11:22:03 AM
If I'm understanding this correctly, I no longer need a resistance going to the HEI distributor but a solid copper connection for full power from ckt3 which the distributor will rely
on after receiving it's initial power from my solenoid on my starter?

Is this correct?

With HEI no need for the yellow starter wire to the distributor. Circuit 3 takes the place of the resistance wire with full voltage if you have removed/bypassed the resistance wire to circuit 3 and replaced with  a 12 gauge wire.

The following quote is from the Crankshaft Coalition website article, Hot rodding the HEI distributor (http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Hot_rodding_the_HEI_distributor):  "If converting to an HEI from a points-type distributor, the wire that was used to supply current to the point-type coil will be a resistor wire.  This is not needed or wanted for the HEI - it needs to be supplied with full system voltage without any resistor wire or ballast in the circuit for best performance.  Depending on the application this could mean rewiring or replacing the resistor wire for a 12-14 gauge supply wire.  Also, the wire from the starter solenoid “R” terminal can be eliminated."

The yellow wire (Ckt 7B) originally running between the starter "R" terminal and the HEI distributor "BAT" terminal won't cause any problem if left intact, BUT it is extraneous and totally unnecessary.  In effect, the only 12-volt circuit connection to the HEI distributor should be the 12-gauge wire coming directly from the ignition switch, through the firewall bulkhead connector Ckt 3 cavity circled in the following image, to the "BAT" (B+) terminal in the HEI distributor cap.  No other wires should connect into this B+ circuit!

(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=37076;image)


The "TACH" terminal of the HEI distributor will connect to the input signal lead of a tachometer, if one exists.  Otherwise, it is unused.

Both the tachometer and B+ terminals of the HEI distributor are clearly labeled with "TACH" and "BAT" embossed onto the coil dust cover directly above the respective terminals...

(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35286.0;attach=37078;image)
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: Spool on August 07, 2017, 12:58:20 AM
Thanks guys.

BD.. Thanks for the tips on the plated and alloyed copper ring terminals.
I'll follow your lead and stick with local brazed ring terminals from autozone.
Thanks for the instruction on crimping the ring terminal before soldering also.
Why do you strip the insulation off?

I found this video online as well which I'll use as guidelines in soldering:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EiIDNEiB_U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTiz-tK5kK0

My solder gun/heat shrink/heat gun have all arrived, so I'll be finishing the job this week.
I'll undo the work of the following to solder it appropriately:
1)Starter Batt Terminal > 14gauge @ 6'' fusible link > 10g Red wire to Junction.
2)Solenoid Terminal > 12gauge > ckt6 in Bulkhead.
3)I think I'll leave the 2Gauge coming straight from the Car Battery, unless you guys think otherwise in soldering it?

Then I'll reconnect the remaining wires which I had taped off to the side.
1) 20gauge @ 8'' fusible link > 16g Black wire > SFE 4 AMP Fuse > ckt105 in Bulkhead.
2) Remove the 3-7 Splice connection entirely to replace the Resistive wire w/ a 12gauge straight to the distributor.

After I get through this job. I'll be figuring out everything that is going on in the junction box.

Thanks again guys. I'll post pictures when I'm done.
Title: Re: 73 GMC Truck Wiring Diagrams/Battery Cables
Post by: bd on August 07, 2017, 09:54:39 AM
Thanks for the instruction on crimping the ring terminal before soldering also.
Why do you strip the insulation off?     The insulation will melt from the heat of the soldering gun.  Shrink-seal the solder joints after soldering to protect the joints from corrosion and improve the appearance.

I found this video online as well which I'll use as guidelines in soldering:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EiIDNEiB_U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTiz-tK5kK0

My solder gun/heat shrink/heat gun have all arrived, so I'll be finishing the job this week.
I'll undo the work of the following to solder it appropriately:
1)Starter Batt Terminal > 14gauge @ 6'' fusible link > 10g Red wire to Junction.
2)Solenoid Terminal > 12gauge > ckt6 in Bulkhead.
3)I think I'll leave the 2 Gauge coming straight from the Car Battery, unless you guys think otherwise in soldering it?    Assuming you achieved a good mechanical crimp, solder the terminal to the cable and then shrink seal it.  To solder battery cable you will need a propane torch or equivalent, because the large cable will sink heat very rapidly - applying heat for too long from a small heat source such as a soldering gun may damage the cable insulation and never sufficiently melt the solder for good flow and suitable penetration.  Solder improves conductivity by increasing the surface area of contact between the conductors, but also seals joints to prevent the intrusion of moisture and corrosive salts.  Adhesive lined heat shrink hedges the bet against moisture intrusion.  To shrink-seal battery cables use triple-wall, adhesive lined, polyolefin heat shrink.

Then I'll reconnect the remaining wires which I had taped off to the side.
1) 20gauge @ 8'' fusible link > 16g Black wire > SFE 4 AMP Fuse > ckt105 in Bulkhead.
2) Remove the 3-7 Splice connection entirely to replace the Resistive wire w/ a 12gauge straight to the distributor.

After I get through this job. I'll be figuring out everything that is going on in the junction box.

Thanks again guys. I'll post pictures when I'm done.