Author Topic: Transfer case help  (Read 7799 times)

Offline benW615

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Transfer case help
« on: February 23, 2016, 05:50:13 PM »
I have a question... in my 79 k10 I have a 203 full time transfer case. I don't want full time 4x4... conversion kits can burn up the t/case. A new transfer case means adjusting the drive shafts and it's a little out of bugget... what do I do?

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Offline enaberif

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Re: Transfer case help
« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2016, 05:56:33 PM »
1) Part time kit and make sure you engage after install
2) Spend MORE money and MORE time to change from something such as the 203 to a 205.

#1 option is really the best unless you got lots of time and money to burn.

Offline blazer74

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Transfer case help
« Reply #2 on: February 23, 2016, 11:02:48 PM »
Put locking hubs on the front. Unlock them, put the T case in Hloc and drive.

Everything still turns, front and rear diffs. Just not coupled to the front wheels. Takes the bind out of turning.

If you put the kit in the Tcase you have to engage the Tcase to lubricate the rear bearing every 100 miles.

Save your money for a Tcase and shafts, you'll need the locking hubs anyway.

I've been running around for years with just locking hubs for years with no issues. Only sacrifices a little gas mileage.

You'll get varying opinions on this one.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2016, 11:08:44 PM by blazer74 »

Offline enaberif

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Re: Transfer case help
« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2016, 07:01:23 AM »
Put locking hubs on the front. Unlock them, put the T case in Hloc and drive.

Everything still turns, front and rear diffs. Just not coupled to the front wheels. Takes the bind out of turning.

If you put the kit in the Tcase you have to engage the Tcase to lubricate the rear bearing every 100 miles.

Save your money for a Tcase and shafts, you'll need the locking hubs anyway.

I've been running around for years with just locking hubs for years with no issues. Only sacrifices a little gas mileage.

You'll get varying opinions on this one.

Huh?! This actually works? Would this not make the transfer case run in a lower gear ratio causing things to move slower?

Offline Boonie

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Re: Transfer case help
« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2016, 07:10:51 AM »
I believe that Hi and HiLoc on a 203 are the same ratio, so everything should turn the same speed

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Transfer case help
« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2016, 07:25:22 AM »
I believe that Hi and HiLoc on a 203 are the same ratio, so everything should turn the same speed
yup
now it should take more energy (waisted energy = waisted fuel) to turn it in lock but its the same ratio
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Offline gunrac

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Re: Transfer case help
« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2016, 07:43:30 AM »
Put locking hubs on the front. Unlock them, put the T case in Hloc and drive.

Everything still turns, front and rear diffs. Just not coupled to the front wheels. Takes the bind out of turning.

If you put the kit in the Tcase you have to engage the Tcase to lubricate the rear bearing every 100 miles.

Save your money for a Tcase and shafts, you'll need the locking hubs anyway.

I've been running around for years with just locking hubs for years with no issues. Only sacrifices a little gas mileage.

You'll get varying opinions on this one.

Yrs. ago I had a 76' full time. I didn't know nothing about it at the time an mounted a pair of lock-outs. I could not get the truck to move what so ever unless I had the hubs in lock position......I just blew it off as a learning experience.
Never Apologize..........as it shows signs of weakness

Offline enaberif

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Re: Transfer case help
« Reply #7 on: February 24, 2016, 08:10:29 AM »
I believe that Hi and HiLoc on a 203 are the same ratio, so everything should turn the same speed

Well crap I'm going to have to try this now! I was looking at running a part time kit but if this would do what I want that could save me money.

Offline blazer74

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Transfer case help
« Reply #8 on: February 24, 2016, 12:02:18 PM »
Tcase has to be in Hloc if you have locking hubs or you remove the front shaft on a 203. Hloc and H are both the same ratio.

Hloc couples the internal differential in the Tcase to drive the front and rear outputs together.  (Like a spool)

When in H the internal diff is not coupled and acts just like an open axle diff and directs power to the least resistance so it will put all the power to the front output of the Tcase With the hubs unlocked or front shaft out you go nowhere.

Full time 203 in H is constantly differentiating power front to rear so you can drive on the pavement with minimum bind in turns.

203 in Hloc is just like a a conventional Tcase like a 205 in 4h.

When one installs a part time kit in the 203 it no longer operates as designed and the adverse affect is the rear bearing does not get lubricated unless you are in the Hloc or Lloc position. So you have to loc the Tcase at minimum every 100 miles or the rear output bearing will toast.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2016, 12:10:43 PM by blazer74 »

Offline roundhouse

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Re: Transfer case help
« Reply #9 on: February 24, 2016, 10:11:55 PM »
I kinda like the full time 4WD

Makes it drive much more smoothly since the front wheels are pulling too
Drive a lot better on curvy roads




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Offline FlatBlack77

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Re: Transfer case help
« Reply #10 on: February 24, 2016, 10:32:42 PM »
my 79 had lockouts installed before i bought it. i tried driving with them unlocked and the case in LOC. made no difference in fuel milage compared to locking them and running in High. others will probably disagree but thats to be expected. nothing wrong with the 203
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Offline roundhouse

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Transfer case help
« Reply #11 on: February 25, 2016, 06:43:48 AM »
my 79 had lockouts installed before i bought it. i tried driving with them unlocked and the case in LOC. made no difference in fuel milage compared to locking them and running in High. others will probably disagree but thats to be expected. nothing wrong with the 203
i like the full time

We had a 1990 Cherokee that had a case where you could pick between 2WD,
Full time 4WD high , high lock, and low lock

Was very cool and I used the full time everywhere in the rain and on dry curvy roads


Many years ago when we lived in the mountains my father had a new 77 power wagon with the 135 HP 318 and full time 4WD.   What a powerhouse !
But It stuck  to the road like glue , wet , dry , pavement , dirt, whatever .
  Much could go a lot faster around the dry pavement curves with the full time than with a older part time pickup.     
Course in the 70s.  All the pickups with automatic transmissions were full time.   
   Only the manual transmissions had part time

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« Last Edit: February 25, 2016, 06:48:05 AM by roundhouse »

Offline enaberif

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Re: Transfer case help
« Reply #12 on: February 25, 2016, 10:13:41 AM »
The problem with full time transfer cases is that its harder on the front end components than a part time case.

Offline roundhouse

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Re: Transfer case help
« Reply #13 on: February 25, 2016, 06:00:48 PM »

The problem with full time transfer cases is that its harder on the front end components than a part time case.
somewhat
But all the new vehicles have the axle disconnect deal only on one side so one shaft and the diff spins all the time

I guess so you can have the shift on the fly option


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Offline FlatBlack77

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Re: Transfer case help
« Reply #14 on: February 25, 2016, 06:16:14 PM »
The problem with full time transfer cases is that its harder on the front end components than a part time case.

i wouldnt call that a problem. i would call that the same wear and tear that is happening to the rear end components.
"When you are a hammer, everything looks like a nail"
'77 C/10 - 350/350 mild street motor