357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

[VileZambonie]

Pistons aren't rotating assembly, they are reciprocating assembly. They are typically balanced once hung on the rods.

[Mike81K10]

Thanks VZ! I still have work to be done on my block or go with another.

[Mike81K10]

I discovered my old block that came out of storage, bored 4.040 has a damaged cylinder. Of course I discovered that after I had it cleaned by a shop. Cannot say if I missed it or they did it. I returned my Eagle balanced rotating assembly (would go with scat next time - forged) to summit for a refund along with some other parts, until I decide what I need now. So I started pulling apart my engine in my truck and will rebuild it or choose another.

I did a compression test on the engine in my truck prior to taking it apart and found number 7 was missing compression. I pulled most of the engine apart in preparation to pull and inspect it to help me decide on a new short block or rebuild the one in my truck. It has been awhile since I had messed with my engine and I should have gone through it prior to putting my truck back together. However, it had been running fine and the last time it was worked on in a mechanic shop about 3 years ago. I rarely let anyone work on my truck, never seem to have much luck when others are relied upon. I found a bent pushrod to my number 7 intake valve and the rocker was cocked sideways.

I have the new AFR 195cc enforcer heads 1001 and Scorpion 1.6 3/8" lifters, new tall valve covers, and some other parts to include the fel-pro gasket kit.

I am not sure what it will cost me to get my engine in my truck bored to 4.030" and when I think about the cost of a rotator assembly and other parts. I have looked at three different short blocks in addition to the engine in my truck; BluePrint Engines GM 383 C.I.D. Stroker Short Block Plus Engines BP38321SP, Skip White Performance - SBC CHEVY 383 SHORT BLOCK KIT FORGED -24cc DISH 4.030 PISTONS SCAT CRANK & RODS, and the new Dart SHP Blocks.

Does anyone know anything about the Blueprint engines? Are there engines in the forum store? Will also have to check it out.

PS: I will us a hyd Flat Tappet if I stay with the engine in my truck (previous choice) and a roller cam with anything else I do. I am adding some pics and I poured some concrete a couple of days ago so I can use my cherry picker to do the engine pull. The concrete will be close to my back gate allowing me load into my truck bed if needed.

[JohnnyPopper]

Looks pretty clean, no sludge

What would it cost to sleeve the bad cylinder?

[bd]

Now is ideal to check cylinder #7 using a leak-down tester if you have access to one.

I'm curious about your reasoning for using a flat tappet camshaft in this engine versus a roller camshaft "with anything else [you] do?"

[Mike81K10]

I always took very good care of the engine since it was new. Oil has always been changed every 3000 or less and the engine actually has less than 70,000 miles on it.

The engine in the pics was going to be replaced by one I had in storage that was previously built (about 35 years ago) and bored .040 over, (call it engine 1). I thought it was a good engine block that only needed a rotator assembly and otherwise little else needed, but found the bad cylinder (cylinder wall crack found) and thought about going to a true roller block if I don't use the engine in my truck (call it engine 2 - both pre 86 blocks) that has the bent pushrod you see in the picks.

In addition to the bent pushrod (Engine 2 - never been bored and it was a GM Goodwrench replacement engine installed about 25-30 yrs ago), a couple of my other cylinders had 90 to 100 compression and the others 120 to 145 compression. So there is not very good compression consistency amount the cylinders. I did do a leak down and only cylinder 7 as is leaking down. The #7 intake valve was found the culprit and it is the valve not seating or perhaps the seal, almost not holding air. I have not pulled off the heads yet, about all that is left on the top to do.

On engine 1, I was planning to go Hyd Flat Tappet in the beginning (not a stroker) with a COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 4x4 Cam and Lifter Kits CL12-243-3 - Duration 270/278, Lift .480/.498 as it would provide good power and torque with my heads AFR 195cc Enforcer 1001 with Scorpion Rockers) and the intake I planed to use - AFR Eliminator Series Intake Manifolds 4812. If I use my engine in my truck (#2) and just get it bored to 4.030 or 4.040, I might still go with my original plan with the hyd Flat Tappet cam.

However, If engine #2 (in my truck) is too much trouble or cannot be used, I will go to a roller cam (appears to be much more expensive) I was thinking about buying a built short block or a short block kit if I go this route. It would end up being a 383 stroker engine with a true roller cam engine block or a Dart engine block and might go forged internals.

I hope this was not confusing. I tried to clarify. Guess I have been thinking about the stroker or a 406 engine and just hesitant on spending the money. Also I have to think about what engine will work with my transmission and flywheel (the rest of my drive line). My drive train may limit my HP and torque.

[JohnnyPopper]

Dude, when you start talking about engines being stored for that many years-

I'm feeling old...

GLWTE whatever it morphs into!

[bd]

The #7 intake valve may have kissed the piston either from over-revving or due to a weak/broken spring.  Inspect carefully.

[Captkaos]

Does anyone know anything about the Blueprint engines? Are there engines in the forum store? Will also have to check it out.

We (73-87chevytrucks.com) doesn't sell engines.  But Blueprint is pretty reputable from what I hear.  I have not used them personally.
Personally IF I were looking for an SBC replacement, I would look into the later model engines with the roller provisions and one piece mains, so 1987 - up blocks.

[Mike81K10]

Thank you for your advice Capt

[Mike81K10]

I went ahead and ordered a SBC Short Block. My wife is upset at the money I am spending, guess she will get over it. I will be using my 195cc AFR heads I purchased and need to change the springs for this engine. I also ordered an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifolds 7501 and a new flywheel for this engine.

Manufacturer's Part Number:
BP38321SP
Part Type:
Short Block Engines
Product Line:
BluePrint Engines GM 383 C.I.D. Stroker Short Block Plus Engines
Summit Racing Part Number:
MLL-BP38321SP
UPC:
816671020564
Crate Engine Family:
Chevy Small Block
Actual Engine Displacement:
6.2L/377
Rear Main Seal Style:
1-piece
Crankshaft Material:
Forged steel
Piston Material:
Forged aluminum
Short Block Piston Style:
Dish
Connecting Rod Material:
Forged 4340 steel
Connecting Rod Beam Style:
I-beam
Engine Block Material:
Cast iron
Main Bolt Style:
4-bolt
Main Journal Type:
Chevy 350
Deck Height (in.):
9.025 in.
Engine Balance:
Internal/External
Oil Pan Included:
Yes
Timing Cover Included:
Yes
Harmonic Balancer Included:
Yes
Flexplate Included:
No
Flywheel Included:
No
Assembled:
Yes
Remanufactured:
No
Quantity:
Sold individually.
Notes:
Pistons have a +18cc dish and Hastings moly rings. Includes a high volume oil pump and a hydraulic roller camshaft. Camshaft specifications @0.050: 0.495 in. intake/ 0.502 in exhaust, 220 degree intake/ 224 degree exhaust. Lobe separation is 114 degrees. Internally balanced (neutral) front 8'' harmonic balancer and late-style 1986-up style 350 flexplate required.

[VileZambonie]

My wife is upset at the money I am spending

Angry wife will give you motivation to keep spending money and time with your true love 

[Shifty]

She'll be much happier once you light that rubber up, and get some tire smoke in her hair.....then buy new tires....lather, rinse, repeat.

 

[Mike81K10]

Think she might be coming around. It appears my clutch is in excellent condition, thought I was going to buy a new one. The one I have is lightly used, low hours/miles. I did buy new engine mounts at the local NAPA, was going to buy aftermarket energy or similar ones but don't have time right now with shipping etc. Maybe next time!

[bd]

Honestly, I think you'll be happier with new rubber clam shell mounts than the aftermarket urethane.