Poppin Fuses: tail/brake/courtesy lamps (73 k10)

[Burgersquatch]

Got my truck back from the mechanic for some Carb work, now I keep popping fuses for my ruining lights, tail/brake and dash lights. I have a service manual and a fuse box diagram but I was wondering if anyone knew what to check first and where.

[Burgersquatch]

Tried new fuses but it glows and burns out as soon as I pull the light switch...

[Irish_Alley]

you have to check for chafed wire some where. since someone was just under the hood that would be the first place i would look. see if someone stepped on a wire climbing under the hood

[pholliday1]

Also check the wires going to the stereo these are a common culprit as they are on the same circuit, specifically there are wires coming from the light switch to the head unit to light the stereo when parking or headlights come on. anything is possible but generally the rear wiring circuit under the hood is pretty tight to the firewall after it comes throught the firewall block. Another common area is a rear trailer wiring harness.

[bd]

... I also think the choke cable has some slack under the dash and when I pushed it in last night, the fuse for the tail/courtesy/dash popped ....

Carefully inspect the routing of the choke cable that you just had installed, along its entire length, from the dash all the way to the carburetor to see whether any adjacent wires or the instrument cluster printed circuit is chaffed, cut, or otherwise grounding.  Pay particular attention to where the choke cable passes through the firewall if the pass-through is shared by wiring. 

While you're there, look for any add-on wiring that passes through a hole in the firewall without the protection of a grommet.

[Burgersquatch]

Thanks for the tips, guys, but it was something/where else. I'll keep this in mind next time... cuz you know it'll happen.

There was some junky exposed connections to small running lights underneath the (Barden) rear bumper. The whole thing was a mess, missing/broken lens, open socket, exposed connectors, exposed twisted-together wires, etc., all where the tires kick up snow/slush/water and it cakes and freezes over all of this. I could see one problem pretty easily after I kicked off a chunk of ice and left a cube remaining where two wires were twisted together. The mess was really more than just this one thing tho... and there's more mysteries under the dash. But like my dad always said... if it ain't broke, don't fix it. It is kinda messy tho.

The mechanic I was with today is pretty cool and a huge help (same garage). Adjusted the choke cable, fixed some sticking linkage (throttle/pedal was sticking on the way there) and he/we got it operating. Moved onto the wiring issue and started with the rear bumper... disconnected the broken/crappy bumper light, put a new/fresh connection for the tail/brake/rev/lic lights, new fuse and voila. Lights. Even the d-side rev light came on (now both work). Maybe 2 hours and $20 and my truck has never been better... aside from what I already paid for previous work.

The manual choke setup is alright but I'm curious if a divorced choke (thermostat coil/rod) would work better. In another thread someone pointed out the mounting location and explained how it operates, and it sounds like a good idea. In theory at least. Although I don't know if the cold/snow here will affect it's performance and a manual choke would be better?

Gotta look into a replacement housing for the p-side tail/brake light as the socket is looking not great, but its OK for now.

Also the p-side front blinker... front/side running lights work, bulbs blink in the d-side socket(s), new blinker fuse thing. There is no right-hand indicator on the dash but I can hear the fuse clicking and the rear blinker works. Can't really see or get to the socket without removing the battery.

[bake74]

     Your in dash blinker not lighting up is most likely from a blown bulb, or build up on the bulb, keeping it from working.

[Irish_Alley]

to change the bulbs should be as easy as removing the turn signal housing out the front then untwisting the bulb socket. but i dont understand the picture you posted of your carb is a 80+ (could be wrong) but this is a 73. what front clip you have?

[Burgersquatch]

I tested the bulbs in working sockets, its not the bulbs. Its gotta be a housing/wiring/switch issue.

Carb is a Rochester rebuilt by Holley, purchased and installed by previous owner. Its working much better after a visit to the garage. Might try a divorced choke at some point but its working and running good.

[Burgersquatch]

[Irish_Alley]

cant see that pic for some reason. could just be the switch. use a volt meter and probe test the socket