73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => LT/LS Swaps => Topic started by: ajdmello on July 25, 2016, 09:56:01 AM
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Hi
I just had a few questions about doing an ls swap. I was gonna just use a tbi for my 87 k10 but the more ive been looking seems like the ls is the way to go. Ive been looking allover on Craigslist trying to find a whole truck to buy to pull the motor out of but they alll have so many miles. I was talking to a guy who has a 5.3 all torn down and machine shop is checking out the block polishing the crank and he said he has everything else all cleaned and ready to be put back together he wanted 750 with the harrness and cpu. Not sure of thats a good deal or not? How much more would i have in bearings and seals oil pump ect....thought if i was gonna build it i would put 4.8 flat top pistons and was told a ls6 cam would be another thing that would be good to do. Im gonna rebuilt a 700r4 and i have 208 i also will be using...thoughts?
Also as far as the rest of the parts needed to complete the bulid i know i need the plates for the motor mounts around 100 bucks think im might try to make some at work though. The guy i talked to said he would do the harrness and reprogram computer for 450 total. Then i need fuel lines not sure what i need there or what pump id need. And then manifolds looks like 2010 Camaro will work from what i read? And drive shafts can i put the motor 1inch back and not move the trans?
I sure would appreciate any input of thoughts you guy have to offer about this.
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THats way too much for a junk engine
It's scrap metal Worth abou 67 cents a pound
Keep looking for a complete donor car
The only reason to not get a complete donor car is if you don't have the room to park it
Learn from my mistakes
We bought a take out engine from a salvage yard
They damaged a lot of items that we had to have
They cracked the oil pan and valve covers
They cracked the starter
They cut the air intake hose
They cut some of the wiring harness
They cut the throttle cable
They lied about how many miles were on it , and not Ina small way
They said 160K
When we sent the computer off to get it tuned the VIN in stores in he computer we ran a car fax and the vehicle had 270K on it when it was wrecked
But it does run fine So don't let the miles scare you
With a complete donor vehicle you should be able to at least hear it run
If it cranks and runs good with no smoke then it should be fine
We used Camaro manifolds and down pipes
We just knocked the innerds out of the cats
We actually had to move the LA engine forward about an inch
Not enough to be an issue with the driveshafts
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THats way too much for a junk engine
It's scrap metal Worth abou 67 cents a pound
Keep looking for a complete donor car
The only reason to not get a complete donor car is if you don't have the room to park it
Learn from my mistakes
We bought a take out engine from a salvage yard
They damaged a lot of items that we had to have
They cracked the oil pan and valve covers
They cracked the starter
They cut the air intake hose
They cut some of the wiring harness
They cut the throttle cable
They lied about how many miles were on it , and not Ina small way
They said 160K
When we sent the computer off to get it tuned the VIN in stores in he computer we ran a car fax and the vehicle had 270K on it when it was wrecked
But it does run fine So don't let the miles scare you
With a complete donor vehicle you should be able to at least hear it run
If it cranks and runs good with no smoke then it should be fine
We used Camaro manifolds and down pipes
We just knocked the innerds out of the cats
We actually had to move the LA engine forward about an inch
Not enough to be an issue with the driveshafts
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I forgot to metion im gonna put a 4ich lift on too still good? How much did the Camaro manifold cost? I thought it seemed like a lot amd better deal if i can find the whole truck atleast ill know all the parts are there. Did your power steering line bolt up too?
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We paid $50 for the manifolds and downpipes with cats
Your stock Ps pump has a fitting on the back where the hose connects
Remove that fitting and the screw it in place of the fitting on the LS pump and your stock hose will work
We used "team 208 motor sports " for the computer
The harness is not hard if you want to just leave all the unused wires in the harness
If you want to cut open the harness and remove all the un used wires it's better to just pay someone to do it
I've done a couple and it's quick and easy to just abandon the wires you don't need
Although. Having the same guy that tunes the computer to do the harness and they usually add in a fuse box so all you do it hook up two or three wires
You will need in tank pump and a return line
We flipped the fuel rails around on the engine so the fuel lines come off the passenger front of the engine
To do that you have to remove some plastic tabs from the manifold with a dremel
We used the dirty dingo mounts and had to put one inch spacers under the mounts to get the engine to clear the frame
Unless you want to run 36-37" tires you don't need a 4" lift
You can run 33"s with no lift and 35"s with a 2.5 lift
The LS swap is a lot of work and money if your truck runs good
What year is your truck ?
If it's a 87 it should have TBI already
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We paid $50 for the manifolds and downpipes with cats
Your stock Ps pump has a fitting on the back where the hose connects
Remove that fitting and the screw it in place of the fitting on the LS pump and your stock hose will work
We used "team 208 motor sports " for the computer
The harness is not hard if you want to just leave all the unused wires in the harness
If you want to cut open the harness and remove all the un used wires it's better to just pay someone to do it
I've done a couple and it's quick and easy to just abandon the wires you don't need
Although. Having the same guy that tunes the computer to do the harness and they usually add in a fuse box so all you do it hook up two or three wires
You will need in tank pump and a return line
We flipped the fuel rails around on the engine so the fuel lines come off the passenger front of the engine
To do that you have to remove some plastic tabs from the manifold with a dremel
We used the dirty dingo mounts and had to put one inch spacers under the mounts to get the engine to clear the frame
Unless you want to run 36-37" tires you don't need a 4" lift
You can run 33"s with no lift and 35"s with a 2.5 lift
The LS swap is a lot of work and money if your truck runs good
What year is your truck ?
If it's a 87 it should have TBI already
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Thats not bad for the manifolds i thought they would be a lot more! Glad the PS will be fine. Id rather have all the extra wires gone and just seems easier to just pay someone and know it right and good to go. From what i seen the dingo mounts are they way to go havnt seen a bad post about them yet! As far as the lift that just what i want to put on it then gonna run 33s or maybe 35s nothing to crazy going to be my daily driver. The truck is in peices right now basically doing a frame up restoration. I bought a couple parts trucks and thought i would use the 87 tbi but im pretty sure im just gonna do the ls now. Lol especially since I just bought a 99 Silverado last night. 4x4. Broke frame and rear end going out. But drove it home 450bucks....bad new though think its the 4.8. Not sure if ill use that motor or just have this truck for a winter beater but either way it was worth what i paid i figure.
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Nice !
I think 99 was a changeover year though
You could have the vortec 350
Post up a picture of the engine
There's not much difference in the 4.8 and 5.3 and no way to tell them apart
Check the VIN and see what it left the factory with
Let me dig around. I can post some pics of my truck with different lifts and tire combos
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/178a16d7160d97aead3f534a9af4e0d0.jpg)4" lift & 35s
35s will fit with no lift if you trim the lower corner of the fender a little
33s will fit fine with no lift at all
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160728/178a16d7160d97aead3f534a9af4e0d0.jpg)4" lift & 35s
35s will fit with no lift if you trim the lower corner of the fender a little
33s will fit fine with no lift at all
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Well the vin and the sticker on the core support say 4.8. He thought it was a 5.3 but that was the first thing i seen when i opened the hood. But the motor came from his dads truck so might get lucky. Barrowing a bore scope today and gonna check the pistons.
I would post pics but on my phone they are to big. Last time i did it i had to drag out my laptop and do it that way it was a pain.
Ya that looks just right with the 4 inch lift what brand lift?
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No idea on the brand. We pulled it off a parts truck
The 4.8 likes to rev
So it makes good power
Just at a little higher rpm than the 5.3
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You think that 4.8 will have the power i want though to spin some decent size tires? If i do put it in mine i wonder if i decided down the road to do a 5.3 if the wiring/computer would be the same? I know they pretty much are the same just diffrent stroke. Heck i might just use that 4l60e too instead of having my 700 rebuilt but then i have to worry about the driveshafts, tcase and the vss but im sure there are opions for the last two...all about how much moeny i want to spend i guess!
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You think that 4.8 will have the power i want though to spin some decent size tires? If i do put it in mine i wonder if i decided down the road to do a 5.3 if the wiring/computer would be the same? I know they pretty much are the same just diffrent stroke. Heck i might just use that 4l60e too instead of having my 700 rebuilt but then i have to worry about the driveshafts, tcase and the vss but im sure there are opions for the last two...all about how much moeny i want to spend i guess!
I dont think you will be able to tell much difference between the 4.8 and 5.3
The 4.8 loves to rev higher , so makes almost the same HP just at higher revs
The other issue is axle ratio
Running 33s or 35s with a 3.07 axle ratio is going to make it a real slug
Most 80s trucks had the 3.08 ratio
3.73 is what we have with 35s and I'd really like to have 4.56
I have 4.11 axles in my bronco with 35s and its ok but 4.56 would be better
The big expense in the LS swap is all the adapters, exhaust, driveshafts, fuel lines and pump , harness and tune , all the nickel and dime stuff etc etc etc
Once you get it swapped in and running driving and want more power or have some issue with the engine, another engine is about $500
The engine itself is only about 1/4 of the cost of the conversion
Regarding posting pictures
I use the Tapatalk app on my smartphone
Take and upload a pic in no time
Does your truck have the in tank fuel pump for TBI ?
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Well maybe ill just run the 4.8 then and see how it does like you said i can allways swap it out for a 5.3 if i really wanted too. Is the harness and computer the same?
Ive got 3.42s hoping that will hold up good enough might get some kind of lovker for the rear down the road that would be nice.
Yeah those adapters are not cheap at all hoping i dont have to spend 500 for one to put my 208 behind the 4l60e it came from a 700 so im guessing the splines are the same idk about bolting up though.
Yes i have the 87 with the pump in the tank so all i have to do it get a pump puts out more psi right? I seen a post one here about what one to get. Can i buy steel fuel line in bulk and bend it? Or is there a better way to go with that?
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Well thanks for all the help roundhouse! Sure do appreciate it! Im hoping to have the truck done next summer. Im sure i will have more questions but you definitely got me started off! Thanks again!
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You think that 4.8 will have the power i want though to spin some decent size tires? If i do put it in mine i wonder if i decided down the road to do a 5.3 if the wiring/computer would be the same? I know they pretty much are the same just diffrent stroke. Heck i might just use that 4l60e too instead of having my 700 rebuilt but then i have to worry about the driveshafts, tcase and the vss but im sure there are opions for the last two...all about how much moeny i want to spend i guess!
I dont think you will be able to tell much difference between the 4.8 and 5.3
The 4.8 loves to rev higher , so makes almost the same HP just at higher revs
The other issue is axle ratio
Running 33s or 35s with a 3.07 axle ratio is going to make it a real slug
Most 80s trucks had the 3.08 ratio
3.73 is what we have with 35s and I'd really like to have 4.56
I have 4.11 axles in my bronco with 35s and its ok but 4.56 would be better
The big expense in the LS swap is all the adapters, exhaust, driveshafts, fuel lines and pump , harness and tune , all the nickel and dime stuff etc etc etc
Once you get it swapped in and running driving and want more power or have some issue with the engine, another engine is about $500
The engine itself is only about 1/4 of the cost of the conversion
Regarding posting pictures
I use the Tapatalk app on my smartphone
Take and upload a pic in no time
Does your truck have the in tank fuel pump for TBI ?
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Just looking at the HP numbers is deceiving. That's why the auto manufacturers marketing teams use HP rather than torque.
You will notice the torque difference at lower RPMs. For example... my Gen 8 Impalas.
I own a 2009 Impala SS with the FWD LS4 5.3 and a 2012 Impala LTZ with the LFX 3.6.
The LS4 has 303 HP at 5600 RPM and 323 ft-lb at 4400 RPM.
The LFX has 300HP at 6000 RPM and 262 ft-lb at 5300 RPM.
When I hit the gas at 30MPH the LS4 will shove me right back in my seat and the SS rockets to 80MPH and beyond in a couple seconds. The LFX is still pretty quick but it takes longer to get there. Noticeably hotter than the older 3.9 & 3.5 but still not a 325 cube V8.
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Well maybe ill just run the 4.8 then and see how it does like you said i can allways swap it out for a 5.3 if i really wanted too. Is the harness and computer the same?
Ive got 3.42s hoping that will hold up good enough might get some kind of lovker for the rear down the road that would be nice.
Yeah those adapters are not cheap at all hoping i dont have to spend 500 for one to put my 208 behind the 4l60e it came from a 700 so im guessing the splines are the same idk about bolting up though.
Yes i have the 87 with the pump in the tank so all i have to do it get a pump puts out more psi right? I seen a post one here about what one to get. Can i buy steel fuel line in bulk and bend it? Or is there a better way to go with that?
I swapped pumps inside the tank
used rubber line from the tank to a filter and then to the old factory metal line
Then used more rubber up front from the factory metal line to the fuel rail
(Which we flipped around so the connections were on the passenger front ,
A little trimming on top of the intake manifold with a sawzall and dremel is required to flip the rail )
We used rubber all the way back for the return line
Let me dig around
I think I have an extra pump
And can take some pics to show what filter I used
Does your donor have a return line ?
Some vehicle had a return line and some didn't
I used the radiator hoses from the donor vehicle
Go ahead and replace the water pump while you have the engine out
I'd transplant the 4.8 and after you get it driving with a good tune that eliminates the torque management and emission stuff
If it doesn't have enough power , swapping engines is easy once you've done all the hard work of transplanting in the fuel lines and computer and and and and
All that transplant stuff takes up all the time and money
A running 5.3 without the harness and computer is about $400 where I live
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I guess i could just use the rubber lines with the factory steel lines didnt know if the rubber would hold up with the pressure from the new pump. I prob need to get new lines anyways be nice just to run steel lines the whole way...
Yes i would like to see some pics of what you did so i can get and idea what i need to do i think the 99 does have a return line although i need to check to be sure.
Your right i could just run that 4.8 and change it out later if is not got enough power
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I guess i could just use the rubber lines with the factory steel lines didnt know if the rubber would hold up with the pressure from the new pump. I prob need to get new lines anyways be nice just to run steel lines the whole way...
Yes i would like to see some pics of what you did so i can get and idea what i need to do i think the 99 does have a return line although i need to check to be sure.
Your right i could just run that 4.8 and change it out later if is not got enough power
Stock hoses will be SAE J30R7 with a MAX working pressure of between 35 & 50 PSI and 250PSI Burst when they were new. http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=10526 (http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=10526)
Replace em with hoses rated for the 60PSI + the LS is expecting. SAE J30R9 hose is rated at 100PSI working and 900PSI Burst. http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144 (http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144)
On this same subject...
If you're using an in-tank pump be sure the hose section that mounts it to the fuel pickup tube is SAE J30R10 Fuel Submersible hose. Most fuel pumps come with the wrong stuff.
Use German Fuel Injection hose clamps or Properly sized Constant Tension Band Clamps on your fuel hoses. Worm clamps are not really suited to hoses smaller than 5/8"-3/4".
I don't use the cheap worm clamps even on larger hoses. When the hoses outer jacket extrudes through the worm slots in the cheap clamps it releases the original tension and you have a leak. Breezeliner worm clamps have an extended stainless protective tang to keep the hoses away from the worm slots for a couple more quarters but not for smaller than 5/8" - 3/4" hose.
The Pollack dual tank valve is only rated at 60PSI or less. It probably will not work for very long at more than that. If you use a frame mount pump you may be able to keep the dual tank valve if the return pressure is low enough.
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I will see if I can get some pics
Been raining every day
Plus the rear main seal on the LS blew
Took 8 quarts to get 8 miles home
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I will see if I can get some pics
Been raining every day
Plus the rear main seal on the LS blew
Took 8 quarts to get 8 miles home
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Ok whenever im in no rush
Man when you say blew it really blew! That sucks
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I guess i could just use the rubber lines with the factory steel lines didnt know if the rubber would hold up with the pressure from the new pump. I prob need to get new lines anyways be nice just to run steel lines the whole way...
Yes i would like to see some pics of what you did so i can get and idea what i need to do i think the 99 does have a return line although i need to check to be sure.
Your right i could just run that 4.8 and change it out later if is not got enough power
Stock hoses will be SAE J30R7 with a MAX working pressure of between 35 & 50 PSI and 250PSI Burst when they were new. http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=10526 (http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=10526)
Replace em with hoses rated for the 60PSI + the LS is expecting. SAE J30R9 hose is rated at 100PSI working and 900PSI Burst. http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144 (http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144)
On this same subject...
If you're using an in-tank pump be sure the hose section that mounts it to the fuel pickup tube is SAE J30R10 Fuel Submersible hose. Most fuel pumps come with the wrong stuff.
Use German Fuel Injection hose clamps or Properly sized Constant Tension Band Clamps on your fuel hoses. Worm clamps are not really suited to hoses smaller than 5/8"-3/4".
I don't use the cheap worm clamps even on larger hoses. When the hoses outer jacket extrudes through the worm slots in the cheap clamps it releases the original tension and you have a leak. Breezeliner worm clamps have an extended stainless protective tang to keep the hoses away from the worm slots for a couple more quarters but not for smaller than 5/8" - 3/4" hose.
The Pollack dual tank valve is only rated at 60PSI or less. It probably will not work for very long at more than that. If you use a frame mount pump you may be able to keep the dual tank valve if the return pressure is low enough.
Thats really what i wanted to know! I might just use braided line since i need to probably replace the current factory lines anyways. I dont want to use a external pump i had figured on just using one tank for now i guess maybe down the road i will try to get the other one hooked up. I seen somewhere on here a guy using check balls in his fuel line to hook up both tanks??? Also isn there a better tank valve i could buy that will handle the 60psi?
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I guess i could just use the rubber lines with the factory steel lines didnt know if the rubber would hold up with the pressure from the new pump. I prob need to get new lines anyways be nice just to run steel lines the whole way...
Yes i would like to see some pics of what you did so i can get and idea what i need to do i think the 99 does have a return line although i need to check to be sure.
Your right i could just run that 4.8 and change it out later if is not got enough power
Stock hoses will be SAE J30R7 with a MAX working pressure of between 35 & 50 PSI and 250PSI Burst when they were new. http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=10526 (http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=10526)
Replace em with hoses rated for the 60PSI + the LS is expecting. SAE J30R9 hose is rated at 100PSI working and 900PSI Burst. http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144 (http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144)
On this same subject...
If you're using an in-tank pump be sure the hose section that mounts it to the fuel pickup tube is SAE J30R10 Fuel Submersible hose. Most fuel pumps come with the wrong stuff.
Use German Fuel Injection hose clamps or Properly sized Constant Tension Band Clamps on your fuel hoses. Worm clamps are not really suited to hoses smaller than 5/8"-3/4".
I don't use the cheap worm clamps even on larger hoses. When the hoses outer jacket extrudes through the worm slots in the cheap clamps it releases the original tension and you have a leak. Breezeliner worm clamps have an extended stainless protective tang to keep the hoses away from the worm slots for a couple more quarters but not for smaller than 5/8" - 3/4" hose.
The Pollack dual tank valve is only rated at 60PSI or less. It probably will not work for very long at more than that. If you use a frame mount pump you may be able to keep the dual tank valve if the return pressure is low enough.
Thats really what i wanted to know! I might just use braided line since i need to probably replace the current factory lines anyways. I dont want to use a external pump i had figured on just using one tank for now i guess maybe down the road i will try to get the other one hooked up. I seen somewhere on here a guy using check balls in his fuel line to hook up both tanks??? Also isn there a better tank valve i could buy that will handle the 60psi?
Pollack used to make a high pressure valve but they are no longer in production.
I have seen a setup where the stock TBI in-tank pumps were used as low pressure lift pumps that feed a welded surge tank. This is probably the least expensive route. There are stainless fuel valves but they cost several hundred dollars.
The fellow in question used a pipe with plates welded to each end and some threaded bungs in the sides. I would probably use rectangular steel tubing rather than pipe to make it lower profile so it doesn't stick out from the frame rail as far and then install feed and return from the selector valve in one end plate with the HP pump supply on the opposite end plate and the engine return on top. 1/8" wall thickness tube is plenty with some 10 gauge for the end caps and one weld in NPT bung for the engine return.
Quoted from the linked thread.
"A simple solution is to build a small surge tank between fuel supply transfer switch and new high pressure fuel pump rated for TPI or 6.0 L operation. A purpose of a surge tank is to act as a buffer between TBI in tank pumps and provide uninterrupted fuel source to high pressure TPI pump. In another words OE, in tank TBI pumps act as fuel lift pumps, delivering fuel into surge tank. Excess, overflow fuel from the surge tank is returned back to selected tank. TPI pump takes fuel from the surge tank, via fuel filter, and return line from TPI rail dumps excess fuel back into surge tank."
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showpost.php?p=3714312&postcount=2 (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showpost.php?p=3714312&postcount=2)
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Now tell me what im missing if the tbi pump is not enough to run the 60psi the motor needs how will it have enough to keep the surge tank full?
Another thought instead of doing that what if i take the extra tank and run the tbi pump in that tank and just pipe it in to the other tank with the high flow pump and put it on a toggle as along as you didnt put to much in and over fill it. Wonder if you could wire some sort of switch to stop it when its full.
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Now tell me what im missing if the tbi pump is not enough to run the 60psi the motor needs how will it have enough to keep the surge tank full?
Another thought instead of doing that what if i take the extra tank and run the tbi pump in that tank and just pipe it in to the other tank with the high flow pump and put it on a toggle as along as you didnt put to much in and over fill it. Wonder if you could wire some sort of switch to stop it when its full.
Volume is not the same as pressure... they flow enough GPH but can't build enough PSI for your injectors.
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Ahh ok i was wondering that after i posted it. Makes sense
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When you noticeably drop the pressure below the standard 13-15 psi TBI running pressure the flow in GPH or LPH actually increases. The Slosh tank will not run much pressure.
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There's a company that sells classic bronco parts that sells a surge tank
Lemme look around
I installed efi from a 91 mustang on my 74 Bronco about 15 years ago
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Wild horses sells em
And it looks like it would work for dual tanks
I ditched the aux tank on my bronco and on the square body
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/EFI_Fuel_Filter_Accumulator
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160819/08635ceddf173b92cd70be9c855a9f52.jpg)
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Wild horses sells em
And it looks like it would work for dual tanks
I ditched the aux tank on my bronco and on the square body
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/EFI_Fuel_Filter_Accumulator
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160819/08635ceddf173b92cd70be9c855a9f52.jpg)
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They modified the exit by adding a pickup tube that runs to the bottom of the filter to the threaded center of the filter head.
They also added an overflow/return fitting to the top that runs to the intake side.
You can do this with a $27 Baldwin spin on filter head with four fittings on top and some copper tube for the extended center pickup.
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That not really bad at all i thought it would be a lot more! I still think probably just set up one tank to get her going down the road and maybe later get a second one. Thanks for looking that up!
You think 1500 bucks will get my ls in my truck? Not counting the cost of the motor. I know computer and harness will eat up a lot of it thats about 400bucks.
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That not really bad at all i thought it would be a lot more! I still think probably just set up one tank to get her going down the road and maybe later get a second one. Thanks for looking that up!
You think 1500 bucks will get my ls in my truck? Not counting the cost of the motor. I know computer and harness will eat up a lot of it thats about 400bucks.
That's a good starting point
Fuel mods will be $300-400 when its all said and done
Mine was more since we had to buy a flywheel and clutch
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I seen somewhere on here a guy using check balls in his fuel line to hook up both tanks??? Also isn there a better tank valve i could buy that will handle the 60psi?
That would be me... I got check valves either Earls of Jegs brand so I could make my own supply line with -6 fittings and Braden lines. This way the selector will send power and return to the appropriate pump and tank but bypass the selector valve/switch. I haven't installed the 6.0l yet but the hoses are mocked up and tested on the run stand without any issues just get an EFI rated filter with the right size AN fittings to match the hose you use.
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Oh as for higher psi selector valves... I found several for 2-300 for airplanes to select which wing they took fuel from but way too steep for me. I have about that amount in my whole LS return fuel system
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Yes your right it was you! Lol so did you still use the stock valve for the return? How do you get that in to the right tank? l have to do some looking and see what it would cost to set it up like that
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https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/adapters/valves/one_way/parts/251006ERL this it?
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https://m.summitracing.com/parts/izl-s9013?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwjem-BRC+isGJlJ-0h-MBEiQAb so from what ive found my 208 will bolt up the the 4l60e but i have to worry about the vss...would this work to send the signal to the cpu?
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dont know, probably not. the vss sends a signal to the DRACs box which then turns that signal into 3 or so different signals one for the speedo one for the ecm and one for the cruise. each one is a different pulse and the dracs translate the signal from the vss
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dont know, probably not. the vss sends a signal to the DRACs box which then turns that signal into 3 or so different signals one for the speedo one for the ecm and one for the cruise. each one is a different pulse and the dracs translate the signal from the vss
OK bummer I didn't know. Thanks
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Yes your right it was you! Lol so did you still use the stock valve for the return? How do you get that in to the right tank? l have to do some looking and see what it would cost to set it up like that
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Sorry it's been a while but I got an answer for you. The way my fuel system is set up will only bypass the supply side on the transfer valve/switch. So when you flip the switch it still sends power to the same pump and still selects the return to that tank.
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dont know, probably not. the vss sends a signal to the DRACs box which then turns that signal into 3 or so different signals one for the speedo one for the ecm and one for the cruise. each one is a different pulse and the dracs translate the signal from the vss
DRAC is used on the TBI systems. The VSS on the 87-91 TBI RV trucks is 2K Pulses Per Mile conditioned by the DRAC. The stock LS VSS is 4K PPM run direct to the ECM/PCM. You can program the ECM/PCM to accept an 8K signal... dig around on LS1tech for the threads on how it's done and read em to see if it's beyond your comfort zone before you invest in an 8K VSS.
JTR has a 4K combination VSS/driven-gear that fits in the transmission/transfer-case speedo gear hole. It's provided with drive and driven gears specific to your axle ratio and tire size. The combo VSS/gear unit allows you to keep your cable speedometer and drive the LS PCM too. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/SpeedSensors_Speedometer.html (http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/SpeedSensors_Speedometer.html)