Author Topic: What's causing this?!?!  (Read 9102 times)

Offline michaelgtrx

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What's causing this?!?!
« on: August 08, 2016, 09:56:49 PM »



« Last Edit: August 08, 2016, 10:04:00 PM by michaelgtrx »

Offline michaelgtrx

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2016, 09:57:23 PM »
This on an 84 k30

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Online zieg85

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2016, 10:09:30 PM »
You are lucky you caught it.  There should be a pin that probably got sheared off on the leaf springs, the bolt that holds the stack together.  Re-using or not re-tightening the u-bolts cause that..
Carl 
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Offline LTZ C20

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2016, 10:38:02 PM »
That would have been VERY ugly and possibly DEADLY. Do not drive that truck untill you fix it properly.
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Offline 1967KaiserM715

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #4 on: August 09, 2016, 06:07:30 AM »
You are lucky you caught it.  There should be a pin that probably got sheared off on the leaf springs, the bolt that holds the stack together.  Re-using or not re-tightening the u-bolts cause that..
More likely the pin holes in the block got destroyed-also caused by improperly torqued u-bolts

Either way it needs to be fixed- new blocks or/and new leaf spring bolt and new u-bolts


IMO I would opt for full leafsprings or shackle flip over using blocks. I would only use at the most a 2 inch block- anything else I feel causes too much stress on the u-bolts and failure in the rear suspension will occur.

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Offline 1967KaiserM715

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #5 on: August 09, 2016, 06:11:53 AM »
Ummm? Is one of the blocks facing the wrong way?

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Current Vehicles:1985 GMC K10(Daily) 1991 GMC K2500(Daily) 1975 Beetle(not running) 1985 Mercedes 300D(not running) 1952 M35    1967 M715(not running)
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Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #6 on: August 09, 2016, 06:56:05 AM »
there should be a bolt going threw the springs and a pin on the bottom of the block, it doesnt look like anything is there. ive never see a block thats angled like that they all have 90° on them. but yeah good thing you did catch it, at the very least you would of binded up the u-joint causing it to break then the driveshaft would of smacked everything else. do you know where those blocks came from? but i think the blocks are your problem, i would replace them with a straight one. you dont have lift blocks upfront do you?
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Offline LTZ C20

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2016, 08:49:01 AM »
there should be a bolt going threw the springs and a pin on the bottom of the block, it doesnt look like anything is there. ive never see a block thats angled like that they all have 90° on them. but yeah good thing you did catch it, at the very least you would of binded up the u-joint causing it to break then the driveshaft would of smacked everything else. do you know where those blocks came from? but i think the blocks are your problem, i would replace them with a straight one. you dont have lift blocks upfront do you?
The blocks are tapered. When you buy a lift you can get tapered and non tapered blocks. The taper is to help correct pinion angle on trucks with large lifts. Usually the larger side is installed facing the rear, this forces the input shaft of the axle to rotate up vertically, decreasing extreme pinion angles.

That block appears to have been installed in reverse, that's why it looks like it is "wedged" between the spring perch and leaf pack. I'm guessing that reverse instalation, improper spring torqueing during installation, not retorqueing after a short period after install (usually 50-100 miles of driving) probably all created stress on the pins, possibly shearing them off and the block starting to slip out.

Regardless, you just have to get it fixed up and you should be fine.
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Offline michaelgtrx

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2016, 04:01:03 AM »
1st  pic is driver side, second is passenger. First noticed a slight vibration, then the truck seemed to be driving crooked, the back end of the truck being closer to the yellow line. I stopped and crawled underneath to inspect and found this...the truck had also been pulling to the left on acceleration, to the right on deceleration. ...I'm running 6" springs in the front that installed about 3 years ago. Previously had 4" springs that were sagging. I haven't touched the rear end (yet), these blocks were in when I got the truck. I think they're 3.5" or 4", I'll be measuring soon. What would be the best fix to avoid this again,  and make it stronger?

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Offline michaelgtrx

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2016, 04:02:18 AM »
And thanks all for the responses

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Offline LTZ C20

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2016, 09:30:09 AM »
New blocks, new U bolts, proper installation method.
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Offline hatzie

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2016, 09:40:42 AM »
You can use "no-block" "Spring only" lift springs with extended shackles.
« Last Edit: August 10, 2016, 12:48:41 PM by hatzie »
SVC & wiring mans --> Here http://tinyurl.com/7387BRD-SVCMAN or My Bucket @ http://tinyurl.com/SQ-SVCMAN
Parts & Illustr Books -->http://tinyurl.com/SqParts
GMSTG Textbooks-->http://tinyurl.com/STG-TEXTBK
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Offline LTZ C20

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #12 on: August 10, 2016, 12:19:10 PM »
You can use no block lift springs with extended shackles.
This would be better.
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Offline hatzie

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2016, 01:08:56 PM »
When I bought my 76 I was surprised there's no Iron extending between the U-Bolts on the block of Cast Iron they expect you to stuff under the springs.  I replaced the setup that was already Bubba installed and approved with blocks under the front springs :o :o :o .  If they had locator wings that ran between the U-Bolts it would be much more difficult for them to slide out from under the springs when the pins sheared off.
 
BTW this is why you NEVER EVER use blocks on the front axle.

I used US DOT compliant ORD long brake hoses  rather than the included hose mount lowering brackets.  ORD are not cheap.  Whatever you buy be double sure they are DOT legal with a real compliance number.  No DOT compliance # means offroad only.  I'm sure the Canadian members have their own DOT compliance for parts like these and USDOT may not be CADOT compliant.  Be sure.  Insurance companies are looking for ways to leave you holding the bag.  Make em work for it.  Don't give em something this easy.
I fabbed my own front swaybar lowering brackets rather than use the fairly anemic pieces with the kit or the really really cheezy ones that were already there.

These guys still sell reasonable quality complete spring-only lift kits for the GM K10-K30 73-91 GM trucks.  This includes important bits like lowered pitman arms, brake line brackets, and front swaybar mounts.
http://www.roughcountry.com/suspension-lift-kits.html


Since it's lifted you should buy and install the ORD steering box braces and re-enforcing plate before the frame cracks.
« Last Edit: August 10, 2016, 01:37:21 PM by hatzie »
SVC & wiring mans --> Here http://tinyurl.com/7387BRD-SVCMAN or My Bucket @ http://tinyurl.com/SQ-SVCMAN
Parts & Illustr Books -->http://tinyurl.com/SqParts
GMSTG Textbooks-->http://tinyurl.com/STG-TEXTBK
Radio Manuals-->http://tinyurl.com/DELCORADSVC

Offline LTZ C20

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Re: What's causing this?!?!
« Reply #14 on: August 10, 2016, 01:53:53 PM »
Off Road Design  (ORD) & Rough Country are both great companies that make good quality products. I've bought twice from ORD and both times I was very impressed.
LTZ Cheyenne C20