Recent Posts

1

General Discussion / Re: Windshield wiper hose

« Last post by Mike81K10 on Today at 02:49:23 PM »

I just check online at the local parts store. They sell the wiper arm with all intact (wiper arm, nozzle, hose, and spray tip) for less than $30.

If the local parts stores have it, perhaps the forum's store will also have it.

2

General Discussion / Re: Windshield wiper hose

« Last post by bd on Today at 02:35:12 PM »

The later design windshield washer plumbing has a hose nipple immediately adjacent to each wiper arm axle that protrudes ~1" from the cowl.  The nozzles are built into the business end of the wiper arms near the wiper blade attachment pins.  The hose "clip" was more like a 4" long conduit that snapped onto the arm from below.  You may be able to fabricate a makeshift replacement from some UV stabilized black plastic tubing.

3

General Discussion / Re: Windshield wiper hose

« Last post by recoil on Today at 02:17:02 PM »

Yes there are plastic clips used on the later versions.  They are thin and typically dry rotted.   I don't know of a source for them.

Thanks.  I'll continue to look.

Steve

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General Discussion / Re: Windshield wiper hose

« Last post by recoil on Today at 02:16:36 PM »

The hose terminates at two spray nozzles that is attached to the cowl cover with a screw. It sprays on the windshield from the nozzle and does not connect to the wiper.

I lived in Hampton, VA when I was stationed there for the Air Force.

Hey Mike!

Nice.  I'm down in the Fox Hill area.

Mine have hoses that route to each wiper blade but are dangling, like they used to plug into something (guessing a nozzle).

It's an 85 so maybe a later model that the cowl one?

Steve

5

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: Transmission cooling lines in new aluminum radiator

« Last post by JohnnyPopper on Today at 02:06:47 PM »

Thanks guys!

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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: Transmission cooling lines in new aluminum radiator

« Last post by Shifty on Today at 12:53:38 PM »

Johnny, sorry I didn't jump in on that.....honestly, the pressures involved are very low, and don't need large passages for higher flow rates....and, the manufacturer of the cooler may have it figured down to a science to keep the fluid in the cooler for a longer time for max benefit. 

Maybe check the flow with compressed air, and see if flows to your liking as well.  I heard a statement a long time ago that an external cooler doubles the life of an automatic transmission, so I think you'll be ahead of the game regardless. 

Cheers!

7

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: Transmission cooling lines in new aluminum radiator

« Last post by Mr Diesel on Today at 10:52:48 AM »

Johnny,

Sounds like you need to figure out an answer based on your own research instead of relying on other's opinion. I will offer my own broad opinion, although it may not amount to much more than a fart.

It seems safe to assume that any reduction in volume could negatively affect your transmission cooling capability. However, there are a lot of factors to consider as to whether the change would be significant for YOU. If this is going in a 1/2 ton Truck driven back and forth to work, probably utterly insignificant. LOTS of these trucks and others like them are driven with NO cooler and survive just fine. If this is a 1 ton Truck driven daily with a 15k lb loaded trailer through the Rocky Mountains, maybe you want to keep the volume as high as possible. Capiche?

8

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: Transmission cooling lines in new aluminum radiator

« Last post by ehjorten on Today at 09:00:32 AM »

Johnny...I will take a stab at it...the factory cooler lines are 5/16" tubing, which means the OD is 5/16". I am not sure what the wall thickness is, but if it is 0.030" then the ID is 0.0253". A standard 5/16" tubing flare nut is a 1/2"-20. 3/8" tubing flare nut is a 5/8"-18.

I would say that you are okay.

9

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: Transmission cooling lines in new aluminum radiator

« Last post by JohnnyPopper on April 29, 2024, 11:04:21 PM »

I laugh! Amazed that after all these years, with the potent brain trust embodied in this website, that no one will answer the question of volume.

Is it hubris? Many have said that an external cooler is good, mixed with the internal of the radiator, and so on, but no word, answer, opinion, or maybe just a fart, about volume's factor in proper cooling.

Perhaps I'm expected to derive the correct answer from non-direct comments to the question?

Sad.

10

Power Windows & Door Locks / Dead short window switch

« Last post by Clcarp57 on April 29, 2024, 07:42:08 PM »

'85 C10, bought   truck window regulators to speed up function of windows.  Drivers side works fine. Passenger side works fine.  Passenger switch on drivers side works fine in up mode, dead short on the down button that causes interior light to dim and stereo to restart (modern day single din). Wiring diagrams are confusing.  New switch, but old switch does the same thing.  I'd like to be able to run a jumper from drivers side passenger switch to the passenger side.  Any ideas? I'm lost.