IGNITION 101:

[Stewart G Griffin]

OK, because of my other problem (see post entitled Quadrajet 102) AND the fact that i don't know the history of my current distributor----i bought it secondhand and the guy "thinks" it came out of a 76 chevelle wagon, i  have decided to replace all my ignition parts.  i don't have time (or knowledge) to rebuild/refurbish the present distributor.

1) Where can i get a bone-stock HEI distributor?  i would prefer new, but will consider remanufactured.  i know GMPP sells a new one, but i want one that is completely stock----i don't want no recurved hi-performance advance.
a) Have you used, or do you have experience with one of these?
http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/748779/10002/-1/11569
Would the distributor need to be taken out for this to be installed?

2)i may have to make my own ignition wires to fit;  How?  Please be very detailed.

3) How would you go about installing a distributor in an engine that already has a distributor presently installed?  Again, please be very, very detailed.

[VileZambonie]

#1 why do you want a bone stock HEI if for only a little more money you can get a performance upgrade that will help with fuel mileage and engine performance? Summit & Jegs sell decent HEI replacements.

#2 custom length ignition wires are the best way to go since you won't have wires that may be too short or wires that are a mile too long. All you do is cut the shielding and leave the carbon core sticking out about 3/4". Fold it back and crimp the terminal on. Slide the boot on and either use some silicone spray or dielectric grease to aid in assembly.

#3 replacing the distributor is easy. Once you have the cap off make a witness mark where the rotor is pointing and make sure the new distributor ends up with the rotor pointing in the exact same spot. If the distributor isn't fully seated when you put the new one in rock the crankshaft with a wrench in either direction until it drops all the way in. The flat spot needs to engage the oil pump driveshaft. From there try to eyeball it where so it lines up close to where the old distributor was when you removed it. Once everything is hooked up use a timing light to set your timing.

[Stewart G Griffin]

Actually, screw it:

i think i am going to just, for now, replace the rotor, wires, and inspect the plugs, and, if nessesary, replace the plugs.  Based on my very limited automotive knowledge, i came to this conclusion based on-----intuition;  The momentary spitting/missing couldn't possibly be caused by the distributor body itself, could it?

4) now, in obtaining plug wires, let's look at this diagram:  And by the way, welcome to my jungle.  Feel free to either ridicule, pity, or feel smug that you don't have to deal with this mess each time you open your hood.
Actually, vacuum hoses fascinate me.



What i'm trying to do is get some pre-made plug wires.  i don't mind having to make my own lenghts, but i would rather get them pre-made if at all possible this time.
i noticed, looking thru the jegs catalog, that most of the plug wire companies sell kits for the SBC in either "over valve cover" OR "under header" (exhaust manifold) kits.  As you can see, i have, along with millions of other stock setups, have the wires on the passenger side go over the valve covers (2,4,6,8), but on the driver's side, they go behind the head then underneath the exhaust manifold---cyls 1,3,5 and 7.

Which kit should i get?
Also, your recommendations as far as plug wires?  i'm looking at the Accel super stocks.

[VileZambonie]

You should spend a little time and clean it up under there. Making your own wires is SO easy and imagine how nice and neat your wires would be. A nice set of looms and you can run or route them however you like.

If you really don't want to get custom wires just get stock replacement set. They will be designed to be routed like this.

[Stewart G Griffin]

Yes, that's it exactly!  Where did you get those pictures?  Where to get a set of stock wires?  i'm concerned about quality, hence my gravitation towards the jeg's catalog and name brands vs. unknown off-brand stuff.

[VileZambonie]

Just get a high quality set for your application from the autopart store.

I get those pix out of my cool library 

[VileZambonie]

BTW these came stock with AC delco wires so just google AC delco wire sets, find someone who sells them, punch in your info and engine code and get the part #

[monte85]

those wires are routed the same as my 85 monte carlo.

[Stewart G Griffin]

Yes, as  i suspected, millions of stock setups have the plug wires routed this way.


Now, at the risk of getting more anal, on to the plugs:

1) Which plugs do you recommend for the crate 350, 260horse version and why?
i'm thinking the delco R45's?  Keep in mind i will not be using the engine for high-performance work--only transportation and mostly highway driving.  Also, i'm open to other brands.

a)Please explain differences between "hot" and "cold" plugs.


2) i am unclear on the current status of AC delco;  Are they still owned/operated by Gm?

[1976Scottsdale]

AC Delco R44T(s) or R45T(s) are gonna be your best bet for stock.  You can get them in either a T or TS ending on the part number, I am not reeally sure what the difference is.  Main thing, DO NOT accept a pack of straight R44 or R45 plugs with R44 or R45 as the part number as they will be the older gasket type plugs, not the tapered seat like you need.  As for the distributor, put a new cap, rotor, module, and RF Capacitor in yours, the RF Capacitor is the thing that runs wires out to your distributor cap.  Also add a new vacuum advance ball and a new set of weights and springs under the rotor.  This is all real easy to do and does not involve removing the distributor.  I would start with the medium springs on the weights, then you will have some freedom to adjust either way.  As for the wires, OmniSpark and Xact fit both work will, but I prefer some Accel 8.8 wires, they sell for 30 or 40 bucks and then buy a MR Gasket or Moroso loom kit from you parts store, an run the wires over the manifolds, but IF you have all the stock loom as in the pics posted, by all means use them since they will make everything so much cleaner looking.  Anything else just ask, we are here to help.

[JJSZABO]

Just get a high quality set for your application from the autopart store.

I get those pix out of my cool library 

How can I get a library like that?

[joesgarage71]

Just get a high quality set for your application from the autopart store.

I get those pix out of my cool library 

How can I get a library like that?

Vile must have every set of helm books for the roundedline.

[JJSZABO]

No kidden    I am jealous 

[VileZambonie]

I have a HUGE information database. You can't fix vehicles without one anymore.

OK the difference between a hot plug and a cold plug is the ceramic insulator.

Think of it like this.... HEAT goes to less HEAT. An ice cube at 32°F will absorb the heat of the 70°F glass of water.

The spark plug and it's ceramic insulator are exposed to the heat of combustion. If there is more insulator there #1 there is less surface area exposed to the heat of combustion and #2 the insulator will absorb more heat energy and disipate it through into the cooling system faster. A spark plug with more surface area exposed to the heat of combustion will have a harder time unheating as quickly and will stay hotter.

Here's a pic I pulled off of google but I have a real nice picture I'll look for that depicts this much nicer.

*pic didn't work. here's a google pic


 
Running too cold a plug will result in cold start stalling and easy fouling. too hot a plug will result in preignition which will cause detonation and destroy your engine.

R means resistor. With Delco plugs the 43 44 45 46 is the catalog # referrring to it's heat range.

I would run R43CTS with .045" gap in your engine.

You can look up what the #'s mean in any delco catalog
http://www.acdelco.com.au/Assets/ACDelco%20Spark%20Plugs%20Catalogue.pdf

[Stewart G Griffin]

As far as plug wires, i came up with #608E WIRE KIT, SPLG.   BUT, there is also a listing for another part#9608E WIRE, KIT SPLG ALL MAKES.  What is the difference if any?