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January 17, 2022, 03:31:09 AM by Cheyenne1010 | Views: 185 | Comments: 2

My name is Robert and I own a 1973 Chevy C10 Cheyenne long bed and i got a frontend lowering question.ive seen all the different lowering kits on the market and my question is can I use my stock coils with a drop spindle?my understanding of a drop spindle is the shaft that the brake rotor bolts on to is raised.so can I use stock coils with drop spindles?(im looking to lower it just a little bit,not trying to slam it on the ground)
January 14, 2022, 09:28:49 PM by 1981lt1 | Views: 562 | Comments: 21

Hey folks.  I have hit a brick wall with my brakes on my 83 C10 LWB.  Everything was working perfectly until I installed a rear disc kit just before Christmas.  Along with the rear disc brakes, I also installed a Master Power disc/disc prop valve.  From that point on, I can't get a firm pedal.  I have power bled the system and manually bled the brakes and I still can't get a solid pedal.  I have gone through 5 master cylinders (I'm not exaggerating) and it's all the same result.  I have bench bled the master every time and it's solid on the bench, but once I install it on the car, the pedal goes all the way to the floor.  I have put the drum brakes back on the car and put the factory disc/drum prop valve back on thinking I can go back to stock but nothing is working.  It's obvious there has to be air in the system but I am getting a solid stream of fluid at all four corners when I bleed the system.  I have purchased a brake pressure tester and I am getting about 500psi at the front calipers.  From what I have read, I should be seeing closer to 1000psi so I am at a complete loss as to what is going on.  What really confuses me is when I press the brake pedal, there is a stream of fluid that shoots up into the rear portion of the reservoir (font brakes).  This usually means there is air in the system, but after going through 5 master's and bench bleeding all of them, I have to think that stream shooting up is supposed to be happening.  Like I said at the beginning, everything was working great until I removed the rear drums and then everything went to crap.
January 12, 2022, 03:17:54 PM by Chevygold | Views: 207 | Comments: 4

Been going through my brakes changing the fluid and fitted new M/C, when I got to the last rear wheel oil all over the brakes shaft seal passing, trouble is I'm in UK so trying to locate replacement seals of the correct size. I haven't pulled the shaft yet but as far as I can tell the measurements I've taken don't match up with any available seal sizes, they look like 2 9/16" o/d and shaft size is 1 19/32" but not easy with the shaft still in place. Don't want to strip it further without having seals as I need to be able to move the truck around.
Thanks
Graham
Spool
January 12, 2022, 02:16:37 PM by Spool
Views: 275 | Comments: 10

Hey Guys- 73 C20 Here.

Been months since a post or work on my truck at all as I'm overseas again. Hope you've all be well.

To get to it - I hired a tow company to move my truck across state lines.
Towman gets there, fires up the truck, and says Drive won't catch... Transmission issue?
Was driving fine when I parked it in July, albeit a slow transmission fluid leak - is that my culprit?

Any thoughts or experience with something like this?
January 12, 2022, 01:36:23 PM by 1987_Rabbit_Hole | Views: 266 | Comments: 7

Hey guys
I have an 87 V10 with a leaky rear main seal Iím going to replace.  My question to you guys is if you had the resources to do it either way, would you pull the engine or do it under the truck?  I donít have a lift.  I have a couple of floor jacks l, some stands and a cherry picker.  Seems to me by the time I wrangle the tranny and xfer case around enough to get in there and then hook it all back up, I couldíve just as easily pulled the motor and done it.  Whatís your thoughts?
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