73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: Engineer on July 12, 2009, 09:08:36 PM
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I thought that I would share with you guys what I am about to attempt. ;D
Below are a couple of pictures of my old '77 Chevy K-30. Yup, she has definately seen better days. The rust has just about taken over everything that is not plastic. (LOL!)
I have owned this truck since January 1988. It was my high school/post high school transportation. It has been a reliable old crate, and served me well above, and beyond. Now it is my turn to repay it for all the loyalty this rig has given me.
The photo is a recent photo of the truck before a truck pull. 20 years ago it had 18.5/44-16.5 Gumbo Monster Mudders on it. About 15 years ago I took the lift off to take the truck pullin. Yes, lifts will kill a truck if you try to pull with it. Now it is back on the stock K-30 springs.
Since this is now my dedicated 4x4 truck puller, and not used to work around the farm, street legality is no longer an issue. Some of the things I plan are a full body off restoration. Truck pulling is not destructive to the truck's body like other 4x4 sports, so a show quality paint job is in order. However to convert it to a competitive truck it will lose it's ability to be street driven.
I am in the process of completely stripping the cab of ALL of it's anythings. I figure the only right way to restore it is too soda-blast all the paint/rust/bondo, and start over with a bare sheet metal cab. This also means stripping the rest of the truck to it's bare nothings.
I am considering having the frame, and axles powder coated, but I will cross that bridge later. May just go with a good industrial equipment quality paint instead of the powdercoat. Cost, and trouble to do it will be big factors. You can kind of hide a bad paint job on the frame, but the cab will get the A+ treatment.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GcGZEFeesOk/VcKVtdXyI5I/AAAAAAAAANQ/XVZBwx75k_w/s512-Ic42/Whitey%252520Pullin.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MKHNCU_LLBg/VcKVLlSpiyI/AAAAAAAAANE/pcdM7AmRCVw/s512-Ic42/44s.jpg)
As a kid, my uncle (dad's brother) worked in the StLouis assembly plant at Union, and Natural Bridge streets where the 73~87 square bodys were built. Even worked on the truck line. :)
Everyone in our family had a '76, '78 or likewise......Had to keep Uncle Bill employed. ;)
Anyway, I remember going to that plant somewhere around 1977 during an open house. Got to tour the assembly lines, and all.
I guess it was just destiny, because I never knew anything different. To me there was no other kind of truck.
So when in high school I became old enough to buy my first truck, well there was no other option. I bought the '77 Chevy in my sig. At that time it was a K10, with an automatic tranny, chain drive t-case, and a 400 small block. Now it is a K30 with a manual, NP205, and 454. After my rebuild, the only thing left that was part of the truck the day I bought it will be the frame rails, and the cab shell. LOL! Everything else will have been replaced.
When I was 16 you could still buy a square body brand new. Too bad I didn't bite. Oh well, I guess it wasn't meant to be.
One other cool morsel.....
My '77 was built in the StLouis assembly plant. It would be sort of improbable, maybe not impossible, to determine what day exactly my '77 was built. But I do know it was built during a narrow span of time of that day that I was at the StLouis assembly plant's open house. It would be easy to believe that I was there within a couple of months of that day.
Like a gun.....Pry it from my cold dead fingers.....I feel pretty confident that if I live to be 100 years old, I will still own my first truck.......My 1977 Chevy 4x4. :)
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wheres the pic ???
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wheres the pic ???
I don't know.
It comes through when I view it. Since this is my first time on this site do I maybe have a setting turned on/off incorrectly?
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Sounds like a cool project. We went to see the Monster Trucks and Truck and Tractor Pulls for our Honeymoon. It was pretty awesome.
You may try uploading the pictures to photobucket or another picture sharing website and then use their link to attach them here.
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Sounds like one heck of a truck! I really enjoy the truck pulls here in town when we do have them, and wouldnt mind finding a truck to build as a dedicated puller. Cant wait to see the progress on it!
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I modified the picture.
Is everyone able to see it?
If not give me a shout, and I'll try to work on it again.
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yahoo, I see it!!!!!. Awesome pics
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very cool
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I failed to mention that I have purchased a front end grille/fenders/hood/radiator support off of a 1991 Suburban.
Now I have to deceide what color(s) to go with. Luckily that is a decision that won't have to be made for many, many moons yet.
Truck most likely wont be white after the fix up. I'm thinking a bright blue, with a silver frame, and axles. Wife likes red, but her 2001 2500HD is red, and my Blazer is red, thanks to her, so no more red.
Whatever color it ends up being, it will have to be an original Chevy truck color. That is just a given. But as I say, I have plenty of time to make that decision.
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Sweet ride!
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There are many different color trucks on this forum. I'm sure whatever you decide it'll look great! ;)
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I failed to mention that I have purchased a front end grille/fenders/hood/radiator support off of a 1991 Suburban.
Nice, I'm doing the opposite of you(my 86 with a 73 front end) which is going to be a little bit tougher...maybe ??? but anyways if you havent found this yet, here is a link to a thread here to show you about the front end conversion.
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=9070.0
cant wait to see more of your truck!!!... id love to get mine into pulling.
Andy
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Well here is what the ol' battle axe looks like after this weekend.........
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RJWbBco0Bvk/VcKWfsb4EGI/AAAAAAAAANw/k_XLqGP0ZVo/s512-Ic42/DSCN1411.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9wSRNRTKjNg/VcKWaMxel3I/AAAAAAAAANY/AuBZlTl5xvs/s512-Ic42/DSCN1408.JPG)
Check out that fancy "temporary" gas tank.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gl4RjWV9Grc/VcKWb7HsXwI/AAAAAAAAANg/VYNeZiuUmLE/s512-Ic42/DSCN1409.JPG)
Unbelieveable. If only somebody offered a replacement cab....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-88gnHrKFyfI/VcKWduc79eI/AAAAAAAAANo/7df_edXFgo0/s512-Ic42/DSCN1410.JPG)
Yes, that is a chunk of fender still bolted to the cab. :(
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h5n7_AlZWmc/VcKWhU_SiXI/AAAAAAAAAN8/1yWDpidO3V4/s512-Ic42/DSCN1412.JPG)
I couldn't let these silp away to the land fill. For my Chevy 4x4 bretheren, seeing these on a fender is similar to meeting royalty. ;D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PHja8qUchxI/VcKXClDodlI/AAAAAAAAAOE/XMlHF9Or5KM/s512-Ic42/Scottsdale30.jpg)
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wow that floor is rusty but not to worry replace the floor and rockers and you will be good to go That peace of fender lol the same thing happen to me
good luck
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On Saturday I spent the day cutting out the old gooseneck/sled pull hitch from the rear of the frame. I also cut out the crossmember that attaches between the front spring hanger mounts for the rear spring. I tore that crossmember up in a failed pulling hitch mount attempt when I was experimenting with building said hitch. Eventually every rivet, and part that is held on by said rivets, will be drilled, and removed aft of the rear cab mount. I plan on removing the rear springs, and all hangers. The only thing that will be left is the "axle stools" that will be welded to the rear axle, and bolted to the frame. These will be 3"x3"x1/4" square tube that extends from the axle up to the frame. Some sort of lightweight crossmember will be fabricated to replace the crossmember at the front spring hanger that I damaged when I was experimenting with building previously mentioned pulling hitch.
I have also removed the traction bars that are visible in this above photo. Those will be replaced by 2"x2"x1/8" square tube that will be welded from the axle tube up to a point right at the transfer case crossmember much like the current traction bar is.
I spent some time today addressing some surface rust issues that were on the '91 Blazer/Suburban radiator support. I also had to clean up the spot under where the battery sat. The battery slobbered acid all over the support on the PA's side to the point that it rusted through the galvanized coating.
Not to worry though, I feel the rust has been stopped before any serious damage occured. :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JNXNMZ5rl0I/VcKX2LEmWFI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/STV-lY2HcDQ/s512-Ic42/91Blazer.jpg)
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Here is an update:
I am trying to get her down to the frame so I can start sandblasting. I am looking into buying a cheap sandblaster rather than paying someone. But for now, I have a lot of frame work to do.
Here is what we had at around noon today:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W_rC4gCplK8/VcKYW82FN2I/AAAAAAAAAOc/vwAzmLH5GuQ/s512-Ic42/%25252777%252520K-30h.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M5zVB040Mig/VcKYZiqvz9I/AAAAAAAAAOk/39Je4B2rQr0/s512-Ic42/%25252777%252520K-30f.jpg)
Here is what we had when we called it quits at 6PM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W8TvQGqF9Vg/VcKYcMbBilI/AAAAAAAAAOs/WdsYJOu3Y-E/s512-Ic42/%25252777%252520K-30e.jpg)
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What are those rims?
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Honestly I don't remember the brand. The directional "saw blade" wheels were popular back in the mid 90s when I first built my truck, and I bought these 2nd hand.
They are 16.5x9.75, I do know that about them.
If I remember correctly the brand name was "Progressive Wheels" They may be out of business now. I am not sure.
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American Racing is one of a few companies that makes them.
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In your second picture on your first post, where are the trucks Cab Lights?
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That picture was taken before I had added the cab lights.
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That picture was taken before I had added the cab lights.
I love cab lights, How much did they cost you?
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Sorry, I don't remember what I paid for the lenses. I "liberated" my cab lights off of an old '78 K-20 that was a victim of a roll-over accident.
I saved the harness, and all of the round rubber light gaskets so these were no cost to me. I did have to buy new lenses though. They are still available from GM under part number #684662 (old P/N, may be superceded to 7505068)
Also look for a HD truck parts supplier, they may be able to get you the cab lights if they are a "Truck-Lite" brand supplier. Truck-Lite's P/N is #1313A for the lens, and rubber base. And P/N #9069A for the lens only.
BTW, The Truck-Lite cab lights are OEM for the 73-87/91 Chevy, so it wont be like you are using "China made aftermarket replacement parts". If you buy from GM they will be Truck-Lite lenses in the GM box.
Wiring harness is no longer available from GM, but you may be able to get it from an aftermarket supplier.
By getting mine off of a wreck I was able to measure the old holes in order to get the exact light location when I put them on my truck.
(http://images.quickblogcast.com/2/8/5/0/4/149905-140582/515Oqjz571L__SL250_%5B1%5D.jpg)
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Here is an update to my K30 truck puller:
These modifications are necessary to build a successful pro-street class 4x4 puller. The engineering conundrum of the 4x4 puller is to build a frame that is longitudinally stiff as possible, but torsionally flexible. The rear hitch must be kept as high as possible, rules allowing, and the more rigid the truck is over it's length the less the hitch will sag under load, and the better it will pull.
Why not make the suspension solid on all 4 corners you ask? There needs to be torsional flex to allow even pressure on all 4 tires. Torsional flex allows the 4 wheels to compensate for pull track irregularities. Thus the purpose for leaving the front suspension stock.
One of the goals of mine during this phase was to resquare the frame. I am pleased to report that my frame is back to being as true as a tape measure will allow it to be on the horizontal, and vertical axies. The rear axle was squared, and centered to the C/L of the frame to the 32nd of an inch. I have a bad 30 year old front spring bushing causing a wheelbase issue, but that will be resolved next week when I replace the front spring bushings with polyurethane items. After that it should be perfect in every dimension.
One reason I replaced the factory crossmember at the rear spring hanger with the gawdy mess you see in the pics was to help with frame rigidity. This is also why I welded reinforcing angles to the rear cab mount. After many years of bouncing, and overloading, the frame was twisting in at the rear cab mounts. This reinforcement resquared the frame at the cab mount.
I also plan on building solid steel cab mount bushings to replace the squishy rubber ones. This will also aid in longitudinal frame rigidity. And no, I am not worried about how it rides. ;D
Also, during my build up I fabricated everything so that if/when I want to return this truck to the street, about a week's worth of shop time should give me a street legal truck once again. None of my modifications are "permanent", except for the rear cab mount. Most of the new bolt holes are simply using the holes left when removing the old rivets.
Frame when we started this most recent phase:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V53TVf9YkkU/VcKZgs5IM8I/AAAAAAAAAPI/ZaLKe0LAIMQ/s512-Ic42/%25252777Frame.jpg)
Frame after completion:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IgsDzMb3LRw/VcKZjJKDUzI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/8mZ1yc_8hzI/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete5.jpg)
Rear of frame with pulling hitch installed, axle stools and ladder bars in place:
Goodbye disc brakes, and springs. Hello solid frame, and cab and chassis hubs:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gVE38G1DDUI/VcKZqPHUrBI/AAAAAAAAAPo/d6qeZU7c12Q/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete2.jpg)
In this view you can see the reinforcement to the factory cab mounts. With this modification it now acts as an additional crossmember.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zIkoKonHf6w/VcKZsQDBNLI/AAAAAAAAAPw/v_gZHE1Wq4I/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete.jpg)
Another view:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ubE4PNtTFLs/VcKZlf6qPJI/AAAAAAAAAPY/gCAC7L7CG5I/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete4.jpg)
And another:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C-ezmK7qDk8/VcKZoMkvpGI/AAAAAAAAAPg/LW1jRJWLExg/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete3.jpg)
Now all that is left to do is to take it all back apart, sandblast it, and paint it. ;D
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I love it. Very nice work!
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How hard is it to square up a frame in a non body-shop environment? Also, how do you know if your dimensions and measurements from what 'is' and what 'should be' are accurate? Meaning, what is your reference? I'm always curious about these things when they involve such precision measurements in a non-precise environment like a frame on a sprung vehicle.
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SUX2BU99-
I don't have access to any lasers, or any fancy frame alignment tools, but by applying basic geometry, and a simple tape measure you can get a frame dern-neared back to perfect, or at least see if you require the services of a professional frame shop.
Basically what I did was to assure that the frame rails were the OE 34" apart front to back in points all along the frame. I also checked to be sure that the top, and bottom of the rails were 34" inches.
You can have a twisted rail, and it be 34" at the top, and 34.5" at the bottom, the human eye will not typically be able to pick up on this. One place to look for sprung rails on the 73~87 Chevy trucks is at the cab/bed juncture. If a frame is ever overloaded it will start to bow apart at the bottom of the rails under the cab. When the rails start to twist under the cab, the cab will look like the cab mounts are starting to give up when in reality it is the frame rails that are twisting. The problem will be first noticed because the rear bodyline of the cab starts to set lower than the bedside.
I also checked square front to back by simply measuring in an X fashion with similar known reference points. I.E. the cab mount holes, and other reference holes along the top of the frame. The reference holes stamped in the sides of the frame can also be used to check square, and not just the height of the frame.
All of the checks that I performed satisfied me that my frame is square. I didn't check the frame's height with the floor front to back since this was not important to me.
I also used a plumb bob to locate, and center the rear axle, and used the triangle method to square the rear axle with the centerline of the frame.
If your frame is square front to back, corner to corner, and measures a consistent 34" I would be 99% certain nothing more is required to put it back on the road.
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Looking good, don't forget to keep us updated!
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I couldn't let these silp away to the land fill. For my Chevy 4x4 bretheren, seeing these on a fender is similar to meeting royalty. ;D
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/SmTt7bWouuI/AAAAAAAAAFE/Vvaae7jfso4/s512/Scottsdale.jpg)
[/quote]
I know what you mean bro..
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c103/nickallica76/trucks004.jpg)
say.. BTW whats that rig i see in the background of some of your pictures.. do I see a two tone brown 1 ton? cab lights?
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Thanks for that reply. It was an interesting read. I often wonder if I have some kind of frame rail issue when it came to my bed sitting about 1/4" or so lower than my cab on the passenger side. It's enough to be noticeable and seemed to be more pronounced near the passenger rear corner of the bed. I changed the body bushings, and no difference. I now have the passenger side of the bed 'washered' up a little to even it. I once tried to jack my truck up on the driver side by putting the jack in the middle of the frame, right about where the cab to bed junction is. I found out the limits of the c-channel frame this way :( I caved in part of the bottom side of the frame rail and think maybe this is contributing to my bed lopsideness.
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this is a cool build i cant wait to see more of it should be a real nice pullin truck 8)
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Hey guys!
Sorry I haven't replied to my thread in awhile, I see that there have been a few comments since I was on here last. I will try to address everyone's comments, but first......
Here are my latest updates......
The first picture is of my manual steering setup. I don't know how this will work on a 4x4 puller, but I am going to give it a try. I kept all of my power steering equipment should this way prove to be too big of a hand full.
This set up should free up a few ponies from the crankshaft. Every little bit helps when you are trying to win. :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X3ExQjBaO1U/VcKaq_DGy1I/AAAAAAAAAP8/a8nDgWz2Wbk/s512-Ic42/ManualSteering2.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H7qqDQDS7No/VcKasO31KsI/AAAAAAAAAQE/th-ENKqhJTQ/s512-Ic42/ManualSteering.jpg)
I just scored this baby off of eBay. :D
It is a Dana60 35 spline Power-lok. It is better than the normal Trac-Lok that Dana used in the front of some of the Chevy K-30s. The P/L has 4 spider gears vs. the T/L's 2. The Power-Lok has 2 sets of clutches instead of only one like the Trac-Lok has. Best part of it all was that is was only $199.00. ;D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rXUymrZTZK4/VcKatZe3D2I/AAAAAAAAAQM/KRQ72Mr2s5I/s512-Ic42/D60Powerlok.jpg)
79K30guy- Yes, that two tone brown truck is my oldest son's '79 K-30. With cab lights. ;) Look elsewhere for a thread on the bed we bought for it today.
Everybody else:
Stay tuned, I am still trying to make headway with the floor board in my cab. I'll post pics when that is done. I have had to cut pieces out of an older '77 K-30 so that I can fix some much needed "dog house" repairs.
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Here is where I am at right now........
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JFg8SyVMNEA/VcKbKALgWeI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/tUgyFMR5QdM/s512-Ic42/Frame2.jpg)
Most of the crossmembers, hitch parts, and rear axle trusswork has been cleaned, stripped, and primed waiting for paint.
I am about to take my frame to a body shop to have it sandblasted.
I just finished building a set of solid motor mounts that replace the squishy rubber ones. The ones that I made will work with the factory 454 clam shells.
The Dana60 front axle will be next in line to get the treatment. I will install all new seals, Dana/Spicer cold forged, non-greaseable, axle u-joints, and possibly Yukon chromoly 35-spline stub axles. At the very least I will get the Dana70 35-spline stubs. Also, at this time, I will drop in the PowerLok. A 1350 series pinion yoke will go on too. And I will also install all new knuckle king pins, bushings, and bearings as well.
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nice build
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Please keep this thread going, I love gas truck pulling and it is really cool seeing one being done from the ground up! Great job!!!
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Thanks for the replies, and sorry that there hasn't been any recent updates.
Been really busy lately so there hasn't been much time for work.
Most of the work that I have done recently are small detail items that don't require a huge time investment.
Since my son plays baseball, that takes a lot of my spare time. Not to worry though, I still get the itch to work on it occasionally.
I can say that many of the frame parts are now in primer. And I have repainted the shocks.
I also aquired a 32 spline front output shaft for my NP205, and a 1350 yoke for my Dana60 front. This will allow me to use my original 1350 series u-bolt style u-joint yoke and rear drive shaft as the front driveshaft. I will be building a completely new 1410 rear driveshaft when the chassis is reconstructed.
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great build man!!!!!
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Man, have I been busy. July 4 weekend, 14/15YO baseball tournament, (which we won 1st place!!), working 40+ hours a week. To bed by midnight, up at 6AM just to do it all over again, and yet I somehow found time to work on the ol' pullin truck.
14-bolt cleaned, primed, and ready for paint:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xy0WFQpOw3Y/VcKbzpzGLRI/AAAAAAAAAQk/AFaMU3U3TkI/s512-Ic42/Dana60%252520002.JPG)
Dana60 before:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y31k_MuzqXQ/VcKb3ArUE9I/AAAAAAAAAQs/wsxqOr2ZGTc/s512-Ic42/Dana60%252520005.JPG)
Dana60 as of today:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EAI48xysCLo/VcKb63ox5FI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/buMJF81F45g/s512-Ic42/Dana60%252520006.JPG)
Still need to get the pinion out, and replace the king-pins. Then it will get the treatment like the 14-bolt has. New king-pins torque to 600 ft/lbs. Removal of the old KPs will probably exceed 800 ft/lbs breaking torque. :o
Just a pile of parts:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TyWwd63vtfQ/VcKb-cBXLqI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/jL8lBc5T6QQ/s512-Ic42/Dana60%252520007.JPG)
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I have another update.
I have been tossing around the idea of having all of my frame, spring, and axle stuff sandblasted, but I was a little concerned about what that cost might add up to. I thought about buying a sandblaster, but couldn't deceide on what to get. So, I finally closed on the idea of building one from some plans that I found on the internet that came from an old 1958 issue of Popular Mechanics.
I think my sand blaster turned out great. I have been buying blasting sand for $3.95/75#, so I think in the long run I will come out better on the money end.
My sand blaster is the full pressure type made from an old 30# propane cylinder, and hose, and fittings bought from a local farm supply store. I have some new ceramic tips coming that I bought off of ebay. The local flea market tool dealer tips don't last for more than one tank of sand. ::)
Compare before vs. after:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fGHBv7WGxcc/VcKcgBrS25I/AAAAAAAAARE/vMZFrQ_ZaB8/s512-Ic42/004%252520%2525287%252529.JPG)
After I sand blast my Dana60 housing I will be ready to start rebuilding it. I found a machine shop that has a caustic tank big enough to hold an axle housing of that size, so I had them cook all of the crud out of all of the tight spots. Now it is all nice, and fresh.
I am really getting sick of staring at a pile of parts. All of my buddys are pulling, while I just watch. Man I am really getting the bug. I have to get this truck back together ASAP. :D
So whatcha guys think? Is the home made sand blaster a keeper? :)
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Looks great, please share the plans or a link to them for the sandblaster!
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Looks great, please share the plans or a link to them for the sandblaster!
Here you go.......
http://www.vintageprojects.com/metal-welding/SandBlaster-plans.pdf (http://www.vintageprojects.com/metal-welding/SandBlaster-plans.pdf)
I am sorry, it was "Mechanix Illustrated", not Popular Mechanics. And it was 1953, not 1958.
Silly me. LOL!
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Yup, I think the home made sandblaster is a keeper.
After caustic tank, before sand blasting:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hPt5waT2-UQ/VcKc1K2fLLI/AAAAAAAAARM/wI9SCUPrmhE/s512-Ic42/iPhone%252520016.JPG)
After sand blasting:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WyPhbhRkjME/VcKc5AyxwbI/AAAAAAAAARU/LmhqLpnL6Pw/s512-Ic42/002%252520%25252810%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vp0Pz94prYk/VcKc9AHFgsI/AAAAAAAAARc/KunwS5HGoJ8/s512-Ic42/003%252520%25252810%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8KEPy0YpD98/VcKdBKjGSmI/AAAAAAAAARk/XU91pvHBqwA/s512-Ic42/004%252520%2525288%252529.JPG)
Before I sand blasted the D60 I torqued the king pins into place. Those babys torque to 600 ft/lbs. :o Not 60 ft/lbs, 600!
Now some primer, and paint, and we can start the reassembly. :D
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Oh yeah, I forgot to add that it took me $8.00 worth of sand to do the D60 housing.
It would have been less, but the el-cheapo flea market tips keep wearing out, and when that happens there goes your sand. >:(
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put a ball valve in just before your gun then when the tip goes you just shut the valve off it saves a lot of sand especially if you are using cheap tips.
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great build im latching on to this one :)
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can you post a pic of your sandblaster, did you cut an end off of it to set up the fill hole and lever?
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Very cool project. Mine too will be a pull truck when finished. ;)
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can you post a pic of your sandblaster, did you cut an end off of it to set up the fill hole and lever?
Please I would be very interested in this.
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Here are some pics of the ol' sandblaster.......
The tank is just a 30# propane cylinder just like 5th wheel campers use. This one was about to be thrown away because it didn't have an OPD valve on it. The valve uses a 3/4" pipe thread, so this is what size gate valve I used, and just reduced it down to the 3/8" fittings that I use.
I just drilled, using a hole saw, a hole for a 1 1/4" pipe nipple in the top for the fill hole. I have a 1 1/4" cap to screw onto it to hold pressure in the tank. I also drilled a hole in the side of the tank at the top for the 3/8" pipe nipple that is welded into the side of the tank so that the tank can be pressurized to push the sand through the bottom of the tank.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TIGgvcnVaqI/AAAAAAAAAng/aTsgfxs7H4M/s512/003.JPG)
This is my second attempt at a nozzle. This one is a much better set up. My first nozzle worked fine, but the tips wouldn't last. This tip has lasted through 2 tankfuls of sand and shows no signs of wearing out. I wore out 4 of the smaller tips after only 3 tanks of sand.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TIGg0ZQXqcI/AAAAAAAAAno/Crr-clVPWwE/s512/004.JPG)
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At my company we sell the wet sand blasters, the carbide tips are not that much money and we are still using the same tip after 5 years.
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Got the frame fully sandblasted, and in primer......
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TKExNisAyXI/AAAAAAAAAoI/6VGlemLRurw/s512/Frame%20002.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TKExRBzREtI/AAAAAAAAAoM/d2fYVEOJihQ/s512/Frame%20003.JPG)
I have everything for the frame, and axles sandblasted, and in primer, now I just need to put some color on, and I can start reassembly. :D
Got a new idea for my weight bracket as well.... :P
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TKExZyfLFVI/AAAAAAAAAoU/tvgJffYtTkY/s512/001.JPG)
Thinking of ditching the weight bracket, and the IH 5288 binder weights in favor of a weight box.......
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TKEy2q5X52I/AAAAAAAAAog/4Y9U-9TmpWI/iPhone%20010.JPG)
I am thinking about building a Bow-Tie weight box like this truck has. I already have the plate steel, so it is just a matter of doing it. Hmmm.......
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man, i know nothing about sled pulling but this thing has me more and more intrigued every time you post more pics!! :)
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man, i know nothing about sled pulling but this thing has me more and more intrigued every time you post more pics!! :)
Stay tuned!
When I am not playing/coaching baseball, or riding our ATVs with my sons, and their friends I plan on dedicating every spare moment to my truck. I have vowed to have it ready so that I can pull in the 2011 season. :)
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Well I have the frame painted, and starting the reassembly phase. :D
Just waiting on a seal to put the D60 back together......
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TMYm00grRdI/AAAAAAAAApI/txFKxLnYqbg/s512/004.JPG)
Frame starting to go back together.....
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TMYm8pMzNAI/AAAAAAAAApQ/ogSanpqie10/s512/frame%20painted%20001.JPG)
A close up of some of the detail.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TMYnAWbSLHI/AAAAAAAAApU/5fER3q7lDJU/s512/frame%20painted%20003.JPG)
Sorry for the grainy pics. My lighting wasn't so good when I took the photos.
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engineer, are you going to add diagonal pieces to your trussed framing to get the rigidity of triangulation? Or are you designing it to not be THAT stiff, just stouter than the stock frame alone??
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Are you going to to try and make front traction bars? I am also building a sled puller, 80 K30.
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Sorry that I haven't replied in a while.....
Latest pics.....
Here is the frame with the rear hubs on, and the front axle almost completely reassembled.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TOAKEpHjXPI/AAAAAAAAAqA/h_0SLxerASQ/s512/004.JPG)
Before,
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/S5MMvnx74kI/AAAAAAAAAYw/0-7vJJ7NYIM/s512/ManualSteering.jpg)
After,
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TOAKA2qoz6I/AAAAAAAAAp8/yHOxcQAm6w0/s512/002.JPG)
It has been a slow process, but the details......It is too bad the lighting is so bad when I took these photos. I wish I could show how much better this is all turning out. The front axle housing shines like it is made from plastic. I posted these last two pics to sort of contrast where I came from to where I am going.
Hopefully I will have the front brakes done, and can get it back on it's wheels within a week, or so. Once that is done I can set the transmission, and transfer case back on it's crossmember.
engineer, are you going to add diagonal pieces to your trussed framing to get the rigidity of triangulation? Or are you designing it to not be THAT stiff, just stouter than the stock frame alone??
No, I am planning on using soild steel cab mounts to bolt the cab to the frame. This should give enough resistance to any diagonal forces that the frame might have to endure. Also by having the cab solid to the frame it should help with the logitudinal (think highway bridge structure) stiffness.
Are you going to to try and make front traction bars? I am also building a sled puller, 80 K30.
Not going to use front traction bars in any way. Been pulling for 15+ years, and have never needed them. I have even seen some SFA square body GM trucks start to bounce with them that didn't have an issue with bouncing before.
Instead of the traction bars, I have added an extra leaf to the factory 3-leaf front springs to counter axle wrap. I also added the quad shocks to the front end, this too will help prevent axle wrap. These two mods IMHO are better, and leave a cleaner look than adding traction bars to the front end.
You will also notice that I also don't use my front sway bar any more. Articulation is key here. With the rear of the truck trussed solid, the sway bar prevents the front axle from complying with track irregularities.
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Almost ready to set it back on it's wheels.
Some added detail:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TQ0h0NOh1-I/AAAAAAAAArU/bMalYvvQWU0/s512/002.JPG)
Scored some more cash for clunkers items.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TQ0hx_t4nlI/AAAAAAAAArQ/efWsnyi73tM/s512/001.JPG)
One of my local Chevy dealers got a 1985 K10 with a manual tranny during the C4C debacle. I wanted the whole truck, but couldn't have it. However what is left of it showed up this week, and the new owner of the above parts deceided to part with them.
I was able to score the parts that I was after afterall. The '85 had a hydraulic clutch, so I scored those parts for my '77 less the bell housing, and slave cylinder. I was also able to score the late model manual steering column with the dimmer switch located on the turn signal stalk.
I am pretty happy with this latest find. When I finally get the old war horse back together I'll have a few more late model parts that will add to the overall effect of using the 1991 V3500 grille, and front end.
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Dont go forgetting about us now, we have come way to far! I have been to a few indoor pulls this winter and cant wait to see your truck finished.
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Here is my most recent update. Been really busy, lots of work for not much progress.
Youngest son is playing baseball for our local high school, so we have been working out with that all winter. Between baseball, work, and Boy Scouts, there isn't much time to sleep after squeezing in a couple of hours here, and there on the ol '77. I am lucky if I get to bed by 11:00 PM. :o
Headers before sandblasting:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TY4ejYs_bJI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/NKQ1l17omgk/s512/Hookercomp.jpg)
Headers after sandblasting, and VHT paint:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TY4euWWtQUI/AAAAAAAAAug/8tDJzt4_AUw/s512/Hooker%20renewed.JPG)
Tranny, and transfer case getting "the works":
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TY4emRXFErI/AAAAAAAAAuU/p1e-ixgkrzc/s512/Ave%20baseball%20011.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TY4erz3ua5I/AAAAAAAAAuc/u9uO4bLeKEo/s512/Ave%20baseball%20013.JPG)
Had to have a few custom parts made for the NP205, plus both output shafts were replaced with HD 32 spline units:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TY4epbD2kMI/AAAAAAAAAuY/wz-r-DHnpqY/s512/Ave%20baseball%20012.JPG)
SFI approved slipper clutch with SFI flywheel, and cover:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TY4exYGAUWI/AAAAAAAAAuk/zFvD2tY2heI/s512/tryouts%20004.JPG)
Vroom vroom....
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TY4p7DeSqdI/AAAAAAAAAvo/Gp3oxx05yng/s512/1st%20Freshman%20game%20007.JPG)
Here is what we have as of right now.....Engine is back in, and the Tr+TC are behind the Lakewood saftey bell housing:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TY4ezvRulkI/AAAAAAAAAuo/xvChi1pxA7A/s512/1st%20Freshman%20game%20009.JPG)
That carb will most likely be dropped in favor of a 850 Holley Double Pumper with an E85 kit in it.
Had a guy call me with this, and with a price that I couldn't pass up:
427TD 4-bolt main std. bore.....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TY4knk2CWzI/AAAAAAAAAvQ/YH-ylJXXlvw/s512/001.JPG)
So after buying the 427 block it set me back a few coins, but look out Furd boys.... ;D
After I get the driveshafts back in, and the accessories back on the engine, I hope to put the '91 Blazer radiator support on, and drop the radiator in it. After that I should be ready to fix the floor in my cab, and put some paint on it. I can't wait to set the cab back on so it will look like a truck again. ;D
I could put the wheels on it at any time, I just haven't for now so that they won't be in the way.
Here is the color I think I am going to use:
2011 SilveradoHD Blue Granite Metallic......
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TY4mtLO5LDI/AAAAAAAAAvY/Jf3qqv2SmX4/2011-Silverado-exterior.jpg)
I think it will complement the gold frame very well, and still contrast the black 1991 Blazer/Suburban body side molding appropriately.
What say y'all? Like the color?
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oh man your really should leave the old 77 front clip on it..they look so much better then the 80s especially the styles like the 91 you talk about but thats my opinion
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oh man your really should leave the old 77 front clip on it..they look so much better then the 80s especially the styles like the 91 you talk about but thats my opinion
x2
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Blue granite is a nice color! Why is the 427 better then the 454? What are you thinking for HP? I have went to 3 indoor truck pulls this winter, sure would like to have one!
Are you going to run any exhaust? I have seen more and more trucks with header mounted mufflers for street classes and the sound is so much better, so much more of a toned sound, also allows you to run more local fairs that wont allow open headers.
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Sorry guys, the 73~80 square front is out.
First off, I can't find any rust free 73~80 front end GM parts. Aftermarket, yes, but no originals. Secondly, there are gobs of 73~80 truck pullers, and tons of 81~87 pullers as well. Where I will be pulling, there are no 89~91 V35 trucks, so mine will be the only one. Lastly, been doing the '77 thing for 25 years now, time for a total change. If I had done a factory resto, then yes, I would keep the 77 front, and white paint, but since my truck stopped being a 1977 Chevy K10 almost from the first day I had it, I don't see a need to develop a sense of nostalgia by keeping it anywhere close to it's old self.
SMiller- I plan on running about 2' of exhaust. Just enough so that any black carbon isn't blown onto my transfer case. I LOVE the sound of a Big Fat Momma Chevy with open headers, at 7,000+ RPM. That, and add the fact that a little extra collector should add enough backpresssure to enhance the engine's torque output. The class I will be pulling in is considered "modified street". Some places allow you to run your exhaust up through the hood. I wont do that. Not for now atleast.
Basically a "modified street" pull truck is limited to a factory style engine block with a factory, unmodified frame, a full cab with sheet metal body panels, DOT tires, and a 1-ton front axle. Anything else is fair game. There are limits on engine cubic inches, and overall weights, and measurements, but as far as a "stock" truck, there isn't much left to compare it to.
Also, the 427 truck block has a .400" taller deck height than a 454. This allows you to run a longer connecting rod than with the shorter 454 block. Since I am limited to 485ci, I have to make power by other means, and RPM is one of them. The longer connecting rod allows for more HP at higher RPM through a more optimal rod ratio.
My 454 (actual 461ci) makes about 550HP. I hope to make 700+ with the 427TD (actual will be 485ci + 1%) build-up.
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What all did you do to your 205? I am in the process of rebuilding my th400 and 205 combo for my pulling truck.
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What all did you do to your 205? I am in the process of rebuilding my th400 and 205 combo for my pulling truck.
I replaced the stock rear output shaft with an HD unit from JB conversions. Same 32 spline as stock, but it has upgraded oil channels. I then bought an upgraded Spicer 1410 yoke for the rear output.
I replaced the stock 30 spline front output shaft also with a 32 spline unit so that I can run my stock 1350 Spicer yoke on the front shaft which replaces the weak stock saginaw CV joint. I believe JB conversions sells the 32 spline front as well, or you can salvage a front output from a Furd or Dogde 205 if you can find one of those.
I also had a retaining collar made to replace the low gear snap ring on the rear output shaft. These have a nasty tendancy to spread the snap ring, and this lets the gear walk backwards, thus destroying the case.
Here is the new rear output shaft with the custom collar installed, and oil feed grooves machined into the collar to allow oil flow to the input/output pilot bearing:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_1X-zaEfNoAQ/TZpggoHYBMI/AAAAAAAAAwM/vopadTF9GBY/s512/tryouts%20010.JPG)
I also installed a set of HD bearing/seal retainers. I bought mine from northwestfab.com. THIS is also a must, because the stockers break with the rearward thrust of the output shaft. YOU WANT these items listed in this picture. Talk to Kris, he is a really cool guy, and easy to deal with. You may even get the 32 spline rear output shaft from him.
The cool thing about this retainer is the extra holes that allow you to mount your u-joint cover loops that most pulling organizations require.
(http://www.northwestfab.com/images/Product%20Pics/P9060093.JPG)
I also inspected all of my bearings, which were new from a previous rebuild, and replaced all of my seals, and gaskets.
Additionally, you will want to take out enough shims from the idler shaft to remove all endplay from the tapered roller bearings, and leave it with some preload on those bearings. I am not going to drive my truck on the street, so a little too much drag on those bearings is not an issue for me. End thrust is, so eliminating all endplay is essential. You may not want to preload too much if you will be driving it on the street. Too much preload will burn up the bearings.
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Sweet Build! Really like the home made sand blaster idea. Going to build me one too. One quick (may sound stupid) question. Did you just use regular beach sand you can get at any home improvement store to fill the tank with?
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Sweet Build! Really like the home made sand blaster idea. Going to build me one too. One quick (may sound stupid) question. Did you just use regular beach sand you can get at any home improvement store to fill the tank with?
I buy medium, and sometimes fine silica (depending on the job) sand from a local brick, and masonry dealer.
It comes in 75# bags. The silica I buy has been cleaned. Using river, or beach sand has many impurities, namely salt which can get rust started immediately after your sand blast job. I do know of some people that use screened creek sand. I tried it, but gave it up since it was too much trouble.
Also, if you use silica, make sure to wear a respirator. Breathing the dust does irreversible damage to your lungs.
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This is a very interesting build! I can't wait to see more, and it all looks top notch man!
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Sweet Build! Really like the home made sand blaster idea. Going to build me one too. One quick (may sound stupid) question. Did you just use regular beach sand you can get at any home improvement store to fill the tank with?
I buy medium, and sometimes fine silica (depending on the job) sand from a local brick, and masonry dealer.
It comes in 75# bags. The silica I buy has been cleaned. Using river, or beach sand has many impurities, namely salt which can get rust started immediately after your sand blast job. I do know of some people that use screened creek sand. I tried it, but gave it up since it was too much trouble.
Also, if you use silica, make sure to wear a respirator. Breathing the dust does irreversible damage to your lungs.
So what do you do with the sand on the ground after you've shot it through the blaster?
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I just watch the rain carry it away.
I tried to reclaim some of it one time, but as cheap as I buy the sand, it is easier to buy more.
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FINALLY, rollin rollin rollin.......
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_t3-uYTN5hmM/TdB49QxgDtI/AAAAAAAAAB0/o9OIUZXnHlk/s512/%2777Truck%20004.JPG)
How about those 2002 HD truck center caps. Sexy huh? ;D
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_t3-uYTN5hmM/TdB5CXNzM3I/AAAAAAAAAB4/2zGko6b9AZA/s512/%2777Truck%20003.JPG)
Got rid of the old 1990s era saw blade wheels, and upgraded to a set made for this century. M/T Classic II knock offs....
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_t3-uYTN5hmM/Tc6erlEPf-I/AAAAAAAAABE/bfyfQB37xDQ/s512/Wheels%20001.JPG)
Wheel on the left is before the restoration process. Wheel on right is during. The old wheels were 16.5x9.75. The new wheels are 16.5x12. I wasn't sure how I would like having a 12.50" section width tire on a 12" wheel.....Normally something like that looks stupid with it's bulged side walls, but in this case I am loving 'em. The wider width should also help to put more of the tread surface in contact with the track for better traction.
......Hope to set the radiator support on this week, and put the radiator in. I need to sand blast, and paint my front driveshaft, exhaust pipes, and some other misc parts then they can go on. After these things are done I will start the cab. :o That is going to be a chore.
After the cab is set on, and completed, I want to rebuild the front weight bracket. The front weight bracket will hold the fuel tank, and the battery. At that point the truck should be driveable, then I can finish the rest of the sheet metal.
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I'm subscribing. Looks awesome so far, I like that you're going to use a slightly newer body style, everyone uses an older truck. Change is good. Good luck.
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very cool
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Not much to report, just some minor details that are very labor intensive.
Man, the man hours that I am racking up. It seems even the simplest of details take forever to meet my standards.
New 1350 front shaft with u-bolt style yokes. No more CV joint to risk breaking.
Check out that convoluted red dust bootie....
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UlqaVEDl8ks/TfLIv6BKGwI/AAAAAAAAACs/AZWqjQ43aQU/s512/1350%252520Shaft.JPG)
Got the radiator support painted, and most of the bolt-ons for the radiator support back on. I am going to buy new headlights, and marker lights....even though they will never be hooked up. The old ones are foggy, and I want crystal clear ones. Everything else is new on the '91 V3500 front, the lights should be as well.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BtaH-kwWVKg/TfLBTgvfLaI/AAAAAAAAACY/FpjrzGjF7H8/s512/019.JPG)
Got the radiator back in. The radiator is out of a 1989 K1500 that I used to own. The C/K series radiator fits the R/V radiator support like a charm using mounts from a 1985 C30. LOL! You just have to love Chevrolet engineering. Everything interchanges even over model year, and truck model changes.
The plastic/aluminum 1989 K1500 radiator is from a manual transmission truck, so I don't have the auto tranny cooler in the passenger tank to clutter things up. The 1989 K1500 radiator is much lighter, and only slightly smaller than the OE brass 4-core radiator that came factory in my '77.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HmJSWGg9d2s/TfLBRMNo6kI/AAAAAAAAACU/Od_NpR4niAI/s512/015.JPG)
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What part of MO are you in?
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PM sent.
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Got the lights on my radiator support. A parts liquidator on ebay has the headlghts. A NOS case of 6 for $20, plus $12 shipping. That is slightly more than what the local parts stores want for one bulb.
The marker lights are new GM:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RE-OyMQsvo8/TgfITPyfVhI/AAAAAAAAADI/lByPAKXobIw/s640/019.JPG)
Been working on the weight bracket. Changed my mind yet again. I deceided to use my old weight bracket instead of building a weight box. This way I can still use my IH 5288 tractor weights, and not have to buy new ones for the weight box. Since I had the steel, I am building a bow-tie weight to act as the front ornamentation for the truck. The bow-tie is 3/4"x2'x6', and weighs about 250# just for the bow-tie alone. :o
I still have some finish work to do to the edges of the bow-tie so that it looks like one giant hunk of plastic. By grinding, sanding, body filler, and filler primer I expect to be able to pull off a smooth finish to add a mural to.
Added to the old weight bracket are mounts for a 5gal fuel cell, and a battery box for an ACDelco group 31 battery. The bow-tie will be welded to the front of where the weights hang. Of course it will all be sandblasted before painting.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FdvSd-fsDdA/TgfIQngyDZI/AAAAAAAAADE/0V5YpS0Z6-w/s640/020.JPG)
Finally, has anyone used DuPont Nason? I am looking into using Nason for it's simplicity. Don't need anything too fancy for a sled puller, just the basic epoxy filler/primer, then the BC/CC.
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Nason is a good inexpensive paint.If you want see bout going with a single stage rather then base coat clear coat.
thanks
pat
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Some progress:
One of my obcessions are Kenworth trucks. Since I was in need of aftermarket gauges, and couldn't see spending HUGE$$$$s for AutoMeter, or the like, I bought a set of gauges from a Kenworth T-800 truck.
Check 'em out:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B1ojU4vfeyI/Ti4aKzjrrcI/AAAAAAAAADs/O1sgwJiDHoc/s512/Kenworth%252520Gauges%252520%25252777K30A.jpg)
Cleaned up, and ready to use:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gnovX7mI8bA/Ti4aNjMKV6I/AAAAAAAAADw/hyHGjOq3YEg/s512/001.JPG)
Took off the stupid looking chrome bezel covers. Under those were just badly peeling black paint, so I scotchbrited that off, revealing a beautiful brushed stainless steel finish on the bezels.
Installed in my "custom" dash:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4T8-jLWQkr8/TkBh0ou0b-I/AAAAAAAAAEI/hpG91DzkOY0/s512/stuff%252520014.JPG)
Got my weight bracket finished, just need to sandblast, and paint:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j8tI4aCHy_0/TkBpzUbg6tI/AAAAAAAAAEs/F13DN-UBsgA/s512/weight%252520bracket.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eRSy0nD_DSg/TkBpwPCsy9I/AAAAAAAAAEo/BLt6bklQkyk/s512/weight%252520bracket%2525202.jpg)
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looking so awesome
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I haven't read through the forum to know if this question has been asked, but without meaning to sound out of place why have a sled puller that's a gas job??
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I haven't read through the forum to know if this question has been asked, but without meaning to sound out of place why have a sled puller that's a gas job??
Question is why not!?!?! lol I pulled my 85 K-20 4 speed tonight for the heck of it......wanted to see what it would do....only went 151ft the first hook and 148 ft the second time but had a blast doing it....first time ever. Diesels are cool but nice and hear a finely tune big block roar down the track too....... personal preferance.... Keep up the great work on this truck!
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Touché! Lol but I will agree amazing work, keep it up can't wait to see the final product!
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As was said, the gas engine is more of a personal preference.
Other factors..... I started pulling this truck 17 years ago. Back then nobody even thought of pulling a diesel. Diesel pulling has just became popular, and seen widespread organization just within the last 5 years.
Additionally, the opportunity to pull a gas truck is better where I live. Again, that falls back to the fact that gas pulling has been around longer, and the rules are more consistent, and more established than diesel pulling.
My truck will weigh a maximum of 6200# when it is finished. The way my truck is set up with the cab gutted, no rear suspension, and only bed skins, that would place me in the 8000# modified classes if I were to run a Duramax, or Cummins. I wouldn't stand a chance with my DOT tires against their bar tires.
And was also said, a clatter trap oil burner just can't make the music of a Big Block Chevy turning 7000~8000rpm.
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so very true. love the big block roar !!
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Just read the whole thread. Great reading for a rainy Sat AM! Gets me inspired to work on my junk.
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Alright, the last update had me with a rolling chassis, and putting on the radiator support. So, I guess it is time to take the time for an update. I hope you guys haven't forgotten about me. ;D
First up the cab.... Since me old war horse had been repainted before, I thought I might rub through that paint just to see what I had. If the paint was good, I would keep it, and smooth it, and paint over it. NOPE! Just a few scuffs took the old paint down to bare metal. NO PRIMER!!!! >:( I had planned on stripping the cab anyway, so that deceided it for me. So after hours of fixing the floor boards, and using donor sheet metal from two other trucks, I now have a perfectly rust free cab with the later (81+) style cowl, and hood hinges. Next step was to use a chemical stripper on the cab roof, and then hours of sanding to get the rust off of that, to get it back to 100% bare steel. Next came a dry weekend whereas I could sand blast the rest of the cab. DON"T LOOK ETHYL, SHE AINT GOT NO CLOTHES ON!!!!!!!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ft232LzbVjw/TsG8hFkTaVI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/OIp0-JZjHkA/s512/today%252520013.JPG)
Before blasting I hung the doors with the latches in them, and the strikers on the cab so I could align everything. I wanted to get the placement perfect, so that after the blasting was done, and the primer, and paint was applied, I wouldn't scratch everything up trying to align the doors. All I would have to do at that point was drop in the hinge pins. Good for the bottom hinge, not so much for the top hinge.
For two weeks I had a dehumidifier running 24/7 to keep the cab from rusting before I could get the primer on it. I still had a lot of body work to do fixing hail dents, etc. This was during a hot part of the summer, add to it that my dehumidifier was adding heat into the shop as well, and that made it a scorcher. Just as I would start to work sweat would run down my arm, and drip on the cab somewhere........Instant rust..... >:( >:( >:( >:( So that had to be addressed. To get any work done, I finally had to work in long sleeve flannel shirts, in the heat, just to absorb the sweat. More >:( >:( >:( >:(
After I primed the cab, I deceided to keep the dehumidifier running just in the oft chance that moisture would get trapped between the primer, and paint.
Primer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8V9xd3fvwlQ/TsG8jgazDKI/AAAAAAAAAFU/ICd5I1SQe0Y/s512/today%252520027.JPG)
Paint:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IN6sKUt4CpE/TsG8mUOTURI/AAAAAAAAAFY/WH5vdEPUgWg/s512/Truck%252520007.JPG)
Dropped the cab back on soon there after:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-So2hWFGKQhI/TsG8oUD8WzI/AAAAAAAAAFc/Ir0voYu7VJU/s512/Truck%252520016.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XduynyH5uEM/TsG8sg_ARQI/AAAAAAAAAFg/MWTmN2_MvMI/s512/Truck%252520019.JPG)
Look at that gloss.......Not bad for a rookie! ;D
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xhwlws6wXpg/TsG8vViWbOI/AAAAAAAAAFk/9KzAFg3fVkI/s512/Truck%252520021.JPG)
You eagle eyed viewers will notice that is a StLouis Cardinals hat in the reflection. As in the 2011 World Series Champion StLouis Cardinals....... 8)
LOOK MA! NO RUST!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YFcPxgn4i_c/TsG82A2DOHI/AAAAAAAAAFw/fMaZRn1wIYw/s512/today%252520018%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
As posted earlier, my son found a 1985 manual trans steering column out of a C4C K10 truck. This has the later model dimmer switch on the turn signal. I tried to clean it up to make it presentable, but no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get it to suit me. So, I tore it all the way down to it's least common denominator, and started from scratch cleaning, and painting everyting. The chrome on the turn signal was peeling badly, so I replaced it with a new one. This time I bought a signal stalk with intermittent wipers, and cruise control. Hey it is a Silverado afterall you know. ;) While I was at it I bought a new lock tumbler with brand new keys.....Why not, since we are going through all of this trouble.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ODTEjZG9_5I/TsG8xvgLGsI/AAAAAAAAAFo/_doGg8Ix8xI/s512/Truck%252520026.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UracS6iJSHU/TsG80Bx4UfI/AAAAAAAAAFs/KPnv19jTF5s/s512/Truck%252520028.JPG)
The next step was the stressful part. I deceided to strip the paint off of all my other sheet metal as well. As posted earlier, my doors, fenders, hood, and other front end sheet metal were bought off of a 1990 C4C Suburban. This is the awesome part, thank you GM! All pieces were galvanized, and rust free. ;D But, here is where the stress starts. I was in a race to get the paint stripped, and then get the epoxy primer on, followed by the 2K urethane, sand it, and then get the BC/CC on BEFORE the weather turned cold. I really wasnt wanting to wait until the cold got here, and have to heat my shop to paint it.
Fenders, doors, etc. stripped, waiting for primer:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AcBqN472Wto/TsG84t7p_pI/AAAAAAAAAF0/DmAkpJcZ8OI/s512/Truck%252520002.JPG)
Whoever had that Suburban must have made a hobby of driving through fresh asphalt. Sheesh, it took me almost 1 full day, and a gallon of diesel fuel just to get that off before I could start stripping the paint. >:(
Fenders, and doors had some minor dents, but I was able to work those out with various means, like screw driver handles, and broomsticks. I am happy to report that there is no putty in my front end sheet metal.........Now the cab, well, lets not talk about that.......just couldn't be helped with all of the welding, and hail dents, etc. etc. This is after all parts of three different cabs all rolled into one.
Starting to come together:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4MyLk-g5Cz0/TsG87WckMgI/AAAAAAAAAF4/GDwhElHMhDo/s512/Trucks%252520018.JPG)
If money were no object, and I could have any truck in the world, it would be a 1991 Chevy V3500 regular cab, long bed. Since Chevrolet never built this truck, I can only imagine if they had it would look something like this:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r0bbAoNR9Is/TsG8-RJnLAI/AAAAAAAAAF8/Zk1Phht0eDY/s512/Things%252520007.JPG)
That is where we sit right now. I am waiting to get my master cylinder fixed up before putting on the driver's fender. I don't want to lean over it, and scratch it if it is not necessary. Got the clutch linkage hooked up, so that is out of the way.
But I just couldn't wait any longer, I had to get the passenger side back together just to see what it looks like. The body side molding trim, "bowtie 3500", wheel opening molding, front side marker light are all 1991 model year Blazer/Surburban/R/V. Take a look at the smooth wheel opening molding, it was only available on the 1989~1991 Blazer, and Suburban. The R/V series trucks had the black stripe like the 1981~87 trucks had. Like everyting else on this truck, the WOM is discontinued, but I got the last of it from GM. :P
One other little tid bit. And challenge me on this if you will, but that grille that you see here, was the VERY LAST 1991 Suburban/Blazer/R/V grille in the GM parts chain. When I ordered it, my parts guy said that there was one left at whatever distribution center he ordered it from. After I bought this one, there was 0 stock on hand. GM never ordered any more from their supplier, and now the part number has been discontinued.
After all of this, I am proud to report that to this point the body of my truck is still 100% GM with no aftermarket parts.
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As good as that looks, I don't know how you'll muster the courage to sled pull again. Beautiful work.
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That is the cool thing about sled pulling, it doesn't tear up the body of the truck like mud racing, or rock crawling.......Well it shouldn't if everything goes right. ;)
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Looks great!
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Great update, truck looks good.
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The truck is going together great, you have done a very nice job so far.
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Im guessin since your a fan of the cards (the world champs) then your from MO. Lol. What pulls do you usually pull at?
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Haven't pulled in about two years. But I would attend mostly any pull that has a "'pro-street" class in SeMO, SoIL, WeKY, WeTN.
After I get the truck back together I'll probably stay within about an hour, or two's drive of home for the first year, or two. My youngest son still has three years of high school baseball, and as long as he is playing baseball, that will take precidence. I gave up OTR trucking to watch my kids grow up, and I am going to see that through. Watching him play baseball, and being an integral part of that is really important to me.
But all good things must come to an end. I realize at some point I'll need my own hobby again. Three years will give me sufficient time to figure out my new chassis, and build a new engine.
During the summer, if I want to travel up to 5hrs away from home, I can pull every weekend. Sometimes multiple times a week if I catch the county/state fairs at the right time. Problem is with the youngest playing baseball the two conflict too much.
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One other point, I have acquired the rules for every significant pulling organization in the MO/IL area. No two organizations have the exact identical rules. So while building this truck, I'm trying to build something that is compliant with everybody. Odds are I'll not be going back to the TN/KY area with any regularity.
Certain rules will make my truck more competitive with certain pullers moreso than with others, so I'll have to deceide at that point who I'll favor, who has the best competition, is it worth my time/money to drive to their pulls? Another factor I'll have to look at is if I deceide to run for points, will one pulling organization's pulls be close enough to home so I can make all of their pulls, and still get the maximum amounts of points?
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Absolutely stellar work, sir!
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Time for a small update, but first some reminicing:
Dug out some old photo albums from when the Ol Chevy first came home.
My '77 K-30, er um, K-10 in the summer of 1988:
Getting the 6" lift for the first time:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bXHoo_F5W0c/TxtneB7cDyI/AAAAAAAAAHE/aVubN57CtQE/s512/%25252777K-10b.jpg?gl=US)
6" lift with 15-35-15 Super Swamper TSLs:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--VLXhjrUZgM/TxtnbZCgBHI/AAAAAAAAAG8/Q-ssyZn9_wQ/s512/%25252777K-10.jpg?gl=US)
When I first bought this truck it had no mirrors. The mirrors in these photos are new GM. They were bought as a "mirror kit" with all the bolts, and brackets.
These pics are after I painted the grille black from the O.E. grey/silver. Not long after these photos were taken I found a white painted front bumper that I painted black to match the grille.
Summer of '89 after the gaudy black body side molding fell off:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O2qXL6xooO8/TxtngdOrRvI/AAAAAAAAAHM/y3YOreZZ5i0/s512/%25252777K-10c.jpg?gl=US)
In this pic you can get a better view of the retro General Lee 15x10 turbine wheels. I have no idea where they came from, but at least they were aluminum, and the proper size for the 35" Swampers. If I would have had to buy wheels for this first lift project, I'm sure it would have been the $29.00/ea white painted wagon wheels. The $600.00 for the Swampers, and the $210.00 for the 6" lift, and shocks had totally eaten up my budget. LOL!!! Thank God for small miracles, eh?
Fall/early winter of 1991 After the transition to Dana60 front, GM 14Bolt rear. 18-44/16.5 Gumbo Monster Mudders. At this point, but not visible, the 396 BBC was already in the engine compartment: :)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z1145zbduzQ/TxtnisJ0LwI/AAAAAAAAAHU/FikYNevOdng/s512/%25252777K-10d.jpg?gl=US)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--ciWiyvWaG4/Txtnkyc2EzI/AAAAAAAAAHc/ffAz6lyRzTY/s512/%25252777K-10e.jpg?gl=US)
Summer of 1992, off for a day of mudding:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5zrbsjnY4Ns/TxtwxCrkGHI/AAAAAAAAAHo/wOfaYDG9lWg/s512/%25252789%25252Bwhitey.jpg)
Hope you fellers, and fellerettes enjoyed my little skiff of nostalgia, it blows my mind to think that these pictures are 20 years old. :P
Fast forward to today........
Single piston master cylinder with clutch linkage finished:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gG8Q5BPxWsY/TxtnT1jLY-I/AAAAAAAAAGU/CQPl0174m30/s512/005%252520%2525283%252529.JPG?gl=US)
Finally added the driver's side fender. It lined up almost perfectly with only one body shim under the bolt on top of the cowl...........
Also, observe the body plain:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bLhSIejLqmE/TxtnSbRSk0I/AAAAAAAAAGM/JTtb9C_4wI4/s512/002%252520%2525284%252529.JPG?gl=US)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LwHDOtEFL1k/TxtnVWi-1XI/AAAAAAAAAGc/2MRLz2yf3a0/s512/006%252520%2525282%252529.JPG?gl=US)
The body plain with wheel opening molding:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vQMfGYT3YpQ/TxtnWYZ1AJI/AAAAAAAAAGk/6vbTHMibxck/s512/009.JPG?gl=US)
And the body deluxe with wheel opening molding, and body side molding with "Bowtie3500" emblems:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cK7qBaHUb3E/TxtnYqZ6RMI/AAAAAAAAAG0/KOlG0kEzw48/s512/016.JPG?gl=US)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QakbAD_S_bk/TxtnXiV41dI/AAAAAAAAAGs/vEUkJjLAFc4/s512/013%252520%2525282%252529.JPG?gl=US)
This last little display was to showcase how beautiful these 73~87(91) Chevy full size trucks can be in different styling configurations. With trim, or no trim these things are a work of art. One word to the wise, if going non-trim, those body panels had better be straight.
Thanks for looking! ;D
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It is always a good thing to remember where we ( our trucks ) came from. Nice pic's.
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That thing is looking pretty sweet. Nice work!
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That's one tough looking truck! Do you have any tips for installing the side molding, getting it lined up and straight? Did you get your molding through GM? I priced it out a few days ago while at the dealership and got "sticker shock".
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My molding is off of a 1991 V-1500 Suburban, so yes, it is factory GM. The little molding on the cab is new GM from a 1988~98 C/K truck since GM never built the R/V series' regular cab with this trim. When I mount my bed sides I will use the trim from a 88~98 C/K longbed since the 89~91 R/V3500 never had this trim either.
Before peeling it off of the doors, I measured from the body line down to the top of the molding. It measured 12", so when installing I measure down 12" from the body line, and then mark with the body with masking tape. When installing the molding I line it up to the masking tape, then just pull the masking tape off.
I also use a 36" stainless steel ruler to keep every thing straight. Also, I used that 3M two sided foam tape. It is specifically for the molding. You have to be careful using this stuff. After you stick it to the truck, it is there.
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Alright, I guess it is time for an update to this old thread, it has been over a year since I did much to this old truck, and there is a story behind why. This is a long post, so if you are interested, put on a pot of coffee. Otherwise click your back button, it might get kind of mind numbing.
Here is one of the bed sides. I skinned the bed so that I can fix the bed skins. When this is all done only the bed skins will be on trusswork on my truck.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t4dWUP44uEc/UTPyTUIG0BI/AAAAAAAAAMk/hqWTDn-RMIM/s512/goodies%2520004.JPG)
Stripped the hood of all of its paint.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VLOwZIDJAQ0/UTPyU-xWsPI/AAAAAAAAAMs/0Rg6CqW7NlQ/s512/goodies%2520005.JPG)
A little wet sanding, some warmer weather, and the hood will be ready to go.
I will be going after some more parts next weekend. A guy I know is junking a 1985 C30 Silverado. I plan on getting the stainless trim off the back of the cab, the cab lights, and cab light wiring harness, plus the Silverado30 badges from the fenders. (don't need the cab lights, or the badges, but spares, you never know) The truck had a manual transmission, and a tilt column, so the column is mine. (really, really, rare column type also should mention he never used the tilt feature, so the column is still tight) Also going to get the hydraulic clutch pedals, and master cylinder parts. The 454 radiator shoud, and shroud plate. Plus I have no servicable hood latch release cable, AND I DEFINATELY WANT THAT BEFORE I PUT MY HOOD ON, AND SLAM IT SHUT. ;D LOL! The other thing I need is a set of bumper brackets. Between my sons, and I we have three sets, and don't have enough to install two bumpers. Each set has atleast one or two bent brackets. :-\ I guess I am going to have to break down and buy a new bumper. Any old GM take offs I find are bent beyond use, and not good enough for this project. :-\
Now here is my problem, and why this project has been idled. Truck pulling has effectively dried up around where I live. It is not feasable to build a truck puller just for one, or two local pulls. Any pulling is going to require that I drive 100~150 miles from home. Gas is at 3.50/gal, and the payoff for winning just doesn't pay enough to offset that. I love truck pulling. It is so addictive. The thrill, the respect you get from other competitors, the admiration from the fans. It is just so cool. But cool doesnt pay much. Add to it that my youngest son still has two years of high school baseball, which will soak up plenty of travelling, and gas.......You can sort of see where I am at with wanting to get away from driving long distances to have fun with my truck.
So here I am at a crossroads. I am thinking of going back and restarting this project. When I was in high school I was obsessed with driving a jacked up truck, as you might be able to tell by the photos of my '77 on 44s. Well, not so much anymore for a daily driver, but the desire to have a monster 4x4 truck has never abated. I went to high school with some guys whos dad owned one of the premier monster trucks at the time.
In this photograph the truck on the left belonged to the guys that I went to high school with.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7aNP8NSqe5s/UTP-Wv-nJqI/AAAAAAAAANQ/ZxLbCoB1b6o/s512/004%2520%25284%2529.JPG)
This photograph was taken about 2 miles from where my wife grew up. I was looking through the other pictures she took the day these trucks were out there. Man that was years ago....... ::) The memories..... Loved that S-10 too.
Anyhow, this followed me home the other day. 66x43-25 terra tire. Probably more to come.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jQZD11GtfVQ/UTPyV9FftnI/AAAAAAAAAM0/M1dqsULx1FU/s512/66-43-25%2520Terra.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NPPOQObmVJ0/UTPyWnd0I0I/AAAAAAAAAM8/V2v1T-JEQbg/s512/66-43-25%2520Terra2.JPG)
Then I'll need these:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-buVRMZGyODg/UTP9NudvKfI/AAAAAAAAANI/358NCL-ESqo/s400/9ead_1.jpg)
Stay tuned.
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Wow. Just wow.
I will be watching this thread!
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(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VFBcuY44R0Q/UTu3pQnRr-I/AAAAAAAAANo/W7bD1JNUXIQ/s512/015%2520%25284%2529.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-l3sgxV3fsKQ/UTu3qVBhzwI/AAAAAAAAANw/0tCtOAc5Rp8/s512/017%2520%25282%2529.JPG)
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Have you picked up your Rockwell Axel's yet ?
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Not yet. That will be next if I don't find a good deal on a couple more tires first.
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dang this thing just went from mild to wild
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Picked up a few more parts yesterday. I doubt I'll ever use all of them, but I couldn't let this stuff go to the crusher which was where it was headed.
I was able to score a 1985 tilt column from a factory 4 speed truck, with cruise, and delay wipers. I also picked up the cab trim for the rear of the cab. Mine has a few bruises, so I grabbed this for its replacement.
I couldn't find a serviceable hood release off of a square body, so I opted for one from a '90 C/K truck. Should give my truck that "personal" touch. :) Atleast now, when my hood is done I can put it on without fear of somebody shutting it, and not being able to get it back open.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iIlFp82Nods/UUR7eQn86LI/AAAAAAAAAOA/pQAvn_CFgbE/s512/017.JPG)
The rest of the stuff like the rain gutter trim, the hydraulic clutch pedal, the cab light wiring harness, the 454 radiator top panel, etc will be put up probably to sit for eternity. I have no plans for any of it at the present moment, but I didn't want it to be uncerimoniously crushed.
One thing I did find, this salvage yard has a 1984 C-10 with a solid cab, and front end. I put my name in for those. I still need to give it the once over before commiting since the '84 has some minor rust in the rockers, and the windshield has had a hole in it for some time.
Here is my plans for now, and this may change. I plan on building a whole new tube frame for the monster, with 5-tons, and 4-links front, and rear. After the monster is completed I can buy the '84 cab, and front end. At that point I can return my '77 body (pseudo '91) back to the puller. Then I will put the '84 on the monster. I already have a suitable '85 grille, and headlight beezels for this later truck.
Since I dont plan on modifying my '77 truck cab to place it on the monster returning it to the puller will just encompany removal, and replacement. With that the puller build will not have been a waste.
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This project has slowed to a crawl, but for those who are still interested I have an update.....I do have an excuse, I attended approximately 70 baseball games since my last update and that has taken up alot of my time.
While I have been setting the money aside for my 5-tons I did a little "beating of the bushes". What I found in my patient search was a complete truck for about the same price of a front, and rear axle set from the surplus truck salvage breakers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TnPDSw3hMhE/UgWEYzHKUJI/AAAAAAAAATE/3WRg2JCl-Q0/s512/012.jpg)
The truck is a Vietnam War era M-54, 5-ton, 6x6, and by all accounts was never used by anybody. The guys I bought it from eventually used it for spares for a fleet of these trucks that they operated.
Yes, you are reading that correctly if you see 156.7 original miles, and 23.9 original hours.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hC7qtqkoJ2Y/UgWEWQBTHQI/AAAAAAAAASs/qdB-1VmkZ6Y/s512/023.jpg)
More proof that this truck's mileage is original....
Anyone who has ever been around big trucks, especially trucks that are off highway capable know that grime builds in the insides of the frame rails, and all over the front of the gear boxes.....
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YVi7leujQvo/UgWERu1ie_I/AAAAAAAAASM/AMhH2DmPZk0/s512/008.JPG)
None of the 6 pinion seals have any evidence that they ever leaked oil. Again, another trait of on/off highway big rigs.
The paint still somewhat exists on the bed mount brackets that suggests this truck didn't have anything wearing on it. Again, anyone who has been around heavy trucks knows that the paint wears off immediately on the bed mounts with truck use because there is no possible way of keeping the bed, and frame from flexing against each other.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-K-BjYHli5Gg/UgWETI9kuLI/AAAAAAAAASU/Zt4jdGuq6os/s512/025.JPG)
Epic amounts of camber are evidence that the front axle has tons of life left in the kingpins.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C1DDNbx-6so/UgWEYGvPDDI/AAAAAAAAAS8/wtH8YphZx7g/s512/013.jpg)
On the road......
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QMIESzrKn0I/UgWEVZwkLKI/AAAAAAAAASk/oFt6fDizgus/s512/021.jpg?gl=US)
Now at her new home:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uuL3RIGlv50/UgWEXE2AEDI/AAAAAAAAAS0/JGb3rMmSt7w/s512/024.jpg)
I plan on saving this, and putting it in the rear of my monster.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-caaulG2gDyw/UgWEUoXNhhI/AAAAAAAAASg/a5h6QKlvXLY/s512/026.JPG)
So here we are. I am a lover of old military iron. I hate to break up this old steel soldier, but after much consideration to restore it to a runner (I would LOVE to do) would just be too expensive. The cab is totally rotted out. You can't shift any of the gear boxes. Anything that is supposed to pivot, doesn't. This truck is uber rare in the fact that is 45 years old. Most of the trucks from this truck's blood line went to Vietnam, or were wore out here in the States years ago.
As I said, I got this truck for about the same price as an axle set from the breakers. What is cool about this find is that I also have a spare rear, and four driveshafts. I would have to buy the driveshafts extra from the truck breakers. And, this truck weighs about 15,000 lbs. so after selling the carcass off for scrap I'll have a virtually free set of new 5-tons.
I have also since changed my mind on my "77 K-30 truck's direction. I was at first looking into a "retro" build with a steel body on a tube chassis, and four link suspension with coil-overs. But now I have decieded to go full 1980s old school. A custom steel box frame will set on leaf springs based off of 64" long 1988~2000 3/4-ton Chevy K2500 rear springs. The springs will, of course, be arched to provide 14" of lift. "Back in the day" 1980s era monsters had gobs of shocks. I doubt I'll go more than 2/wheel for now. And I will not be using the military truck's transfer case.
My plans are for a "light weight" old school truck. By building a custom box frame, instead of bracing the factory frame like the 1980s trucks did, I'll be lighter, and stronger. Also, I am looking at either an SCS, or Pro-Fab puller case. Some of the 1980s monsters had these, so it wont be against the old school build theme. Without yokes the SCS case weighs about 80 lbs. The 5-ton case in the M-54 is about 750 lbs....... It is massive.
Now my search turns toward finding a complete bed. The bed skins idea only plays on a retro build. Old school needs a full bed. And I'm still looking for 2 more 66x43-25 bias Goodyears, and 4 wheels.
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WOW, good find on the m-54 truck. One thing is for sure, you will not be breaking those 5 ton rock wells .
I have used them on custom rock buggies and never over 20 years had problems with anything breaking.
Good luck with the build and keep the pics and updates coming.
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You quite literally meant 'monster' :P
What are you planning to run for the tranny? (sorry if I missed it in the posts somewhere)
And how much weight are you pushing currently?
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SM465 tranny.
Don't know on weight. Axles are about 1,500# apiece. Removing the brakes saves about 300# per axle.
66x43-25 tires are 1,000# apiece with steel wheel.
Frame, and suspension will only be slightly heavier, but no more than a truck with an aftermarket lift kit.
I plan on running a SCS puller transfer case. Those are only about 80# which is about half of what my current NP205 weighs.
Just a rough guess, but I'm thinking ready to run I'll be about 11,000#.
Stay tuned. Big update coming within the week.
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If you were near me, I would love to pick over your scrap pile leftover from that m54...especially that front bumper..I like the "if you pull out in front of me, I hope you have a good life insurance policy and expected to have a closed casket funeral" look.
Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. Good looking project.
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Update:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-didmnAhk6Vc/UkTJ9by9-jI/AAAAAAAAAUY/oV3x8mXpUgQ/s512/036.JPG)
Getting the engine out of the frame was a blast. :P About 2500#.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-crTWppAqbkU/UkTKB0conaI/AAAAAAAAAU0/9JOavZzbwKo/s512/026.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ce2MbAVX8I0/UkTKAZheKLI/AAAAAAAAAUo/DlXxqCLFWqM/s512/025.JPG)
Brakes shoes are so new that they still haven't taken a set to the brake drums:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eA0mcVzkHRI/UkTJ-iENcAI/AAAAAAAAAUg/DK1tTValkvg/s512/022.JPG)
Deceided instead of junking the frame that we would save the frame rails. We drilled out all of the rivets, and removed the bolts so we could strip the rails from the cross members. Our intentions are to use the frame rails to build my oldest son a gooseneck trailer. Using my trailer as a pattern, we should be able to build a 22' trailer from these rails.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fzsTcZe_r8s/UkTKbjFeWHI/AAAAAAAAAVE/1BH7F8QUpYc/s512/003.JPG)
Here are my axles setting in my shop. The rear axle will be used as is. The front will have its differential turned 180°. This will then have the driveshaft centered on the axle. I will replace all of the seals, and knuckle boots when I strip them down to paint them. Otherwise I'll be using both axles as is.
Removing the wheel brakes saves about 300 pounds per axle.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QPDgNpIMlpM/UkTKc-Q1oqI/AAAAAAAAAVM/S20td1qoYps/s512/008.JPG)
Just for giggles I will add these photos for comparison. I'll be using the top two driveshafts in this picture. They are identical, just need to lengthen the one. Both are 1610 series. The bottom green one is a 1710 series. Placed below is the original front driveshaft from my truck. LOL!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SqOePKOWtik/UkTKgPYZqBI/AAAAAAAAAVc/lTDnCOrbxt8/s512/027.JPG)
Axle on left is from a GM 14-bolt rear. Axle on right is from a rear 5-tonner. ;D
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ef9kyECvAUU/UkTKCwfOPvI/AAAAAAAAAU4/vkAJ-B6FS7s/s512/035%2520%25282%2529.JPG)
Also, I was able to score three more tires, and three wheels:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UM7U41AUvKI/UkTKe4PnNoI/AAAAAAAAAVU/60nsWraSeRE/s512/018.JPG)
I now have 6) 66x43-25 terra tires. Problem is I only have three of the old 10-ply GoodYears. I am still looking for one more of the old rounded 10-ply Super Terra Grip tires from the early monster truck era.
What I have in addition to the 3 older 10-plys is 2 GoodYear Super Terra Grip XT tires. My hope is to find one more Super Terra Grip to buy, or maybe find someone who is willing to trade the 2 XTs that I have for one older tire, and wheel. I really am hoping to run a full matching set of four. The other last option would be to find 2 more Super Terra Grip XTs.
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AWSOME is all I can say! Cant wait to see it done. Good idea with the making a trailer out of the rest.
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Bought this today $150.00 M-1008 pick up box:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LcH83ZzdFCo/Uki1jnVZHsI/AAAAAAAAAV4/k4E0cS2RuqQ/s512/photo%2525202.jpg)
It has some bruises, but nothing that wont be too hard to fix with some love. :-* Pulled the tail lights to inspect for rust. None. :) Looked inside the gaps in the inner fenders above the wheel wells for rust. None. :)
Only rust seems to be from where the scratches are. 8)
Don't think I'll be able to totally get the dents out without a little putty, but we will try. ???
Thought I would add this: Scored an M-1008 bed about three years ago (background). Thought we would have it painted by now.......but......maybe soon. :P
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-esLiwzFGfsQ/Uki1lSlgaZI/AAAAAAAAAWA/Yy3nFVdIPXE/s512/photo%2525203.jpg)
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Started working on the bed this week.
I have to ask, is anyone else this fanatical about bare metal? For some reason I just can't get myself to paint over anything. I keep telling myself that the metal has to be stripped bare or I am risking future failure. :(
This way at least I can get all of the tiny little surface rust webs that formed as a result of the paint failing. You can sort of see where those spots are.
Also, this corner had a fairly sizeable dent. With a little (a lot) time I was able to slowly work out most of the dents. The 2K urethane primer should build enough to smooth what I was not able to work out. There is a dent in the rear that I wont be so lucky with. That one will take filler. Oh, well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8IaORuGWSYM/UlX3YVzcQoI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/WFx4-TThZO4/s512/019%2520%25285%2529.JPG)
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Your hard work will pay off. On something this old I don't think its worth the chance of painting over--especially with the surface rust. You're doing a really neat project, so it might as well look good for a long time.
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Cool build !!! 8)
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My bare metal OCD is in full bloom......
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jLhGGf7gImI/Um8QsWdl7sI/AAAAAAAAAWk/5xHRryBhiEY/s512/004%2520%25286%2529.JPG)
Stripped the hood to bare metal today. Put the base grey primer/sealer on it. Will top the primer/sealer with 2K urethane filler/primer to fill any small imperfections. I have three light dents that look like hail dents that need filled with putty. Will do that before putting on the urethane.
Haven't decided wether or not to paint the underside of the hood basic black like I did the bottom of my cab, or paint it with the body color to match the inner fenders, and firewall. Thinking color, but just not quite sure yet. I wont be putting the fiberglass sound blanket back on, so color it will probably be. I hope the color, and clearcoat that I bought a while back is still good. It has been sitting in my shop floor since I did the cab, doors, and fenders....and that has been a while.
I'll be glad when this phase is done. Stripping all of the paint off is major time consuming......... But really the only thing left to strip is the passenger side of the bed, so I really can't complain. As can be seen above, the driver's side has already been stripped, and primed.
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OK, so I told you guys that my wife was neighbors to the guys who owned the Bearfoot 3 truck. Here are some pictures that she took the day that they had the two trucks together when the professional photo above was taken:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rxU9NG-83AA/Vi1-lpdB1KI/AAAAAAAAApQ/4szhAZpv3lw/s512-Ic42/Bearfoot322.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QAFQdc_aKQA/Vi1-j5U7j1I/AAAAAAAAApI/vbPaLVImPsM/s512-Ic42/Bearfoot342.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dRB0c9-bh3Q/Vi1-ZWb0MII/AAAAAAAAAoo/i-7KHOtqras/s512-Ic42/Bearfoot33.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AWsqKOAWZnI/Vi1-ePjJnII/AAAAAAAAAo4/cvsKR3IhqSQ/s512-Ic42/Little%252520Bearfoot2%252520%2525282%252529.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_7dNsYnizLU/Vi1-gkjJa_I/AAAAAAAAApA/i30UBjyA-3I/s512-Ic42/Little%252520Bearfoot3%252520%2525282%252529.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FoBhCojUZjY/Vi1-n4YSgXI/AAAAAAAAApg/Vzgmqu3j_W4/s512-Ic42/Little%252520Bearfoot%252520field.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hxWCkRpw4SY/Vi1-pEZWLxI/AAAAAAAAApo/t07POy2eTqg/s512-Ic42/Little%252520Bearfoot%252520field2.jpg)
Sorry if the photos aren't of the best quality. It was, after all, 30 years ago.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ my inspiration lol (http://www.naioa.com/v2/modules/Forums/images/smiles/Chevy_anim.gif)
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Ones a Chevy and the other is a Ford? am i seeing that right? lol
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Ones a Chevy and the other is a Ford? am i seeing that right? lol
Are you referring to my pictures?
The Bearfoot 3 truck is a 1985 full size Chevy. The Little Bearfoot is a 1984 Chevy S-10.
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Ah, the little bearfoot looked like it had ford taillights. my mistake.
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Had a little issue with the latest phase in my build.
After stripping the hood I needed to cover it with a primer/sealer. The one I used on my bed was the same one I tried using on my hood. However, it is not going to work. Here is why......
My bed is grey steel. The hood I have is off of a 1991 Suburban, it is galvanized. All of my body panels are galvanized except the bed. To this point I have been using a DuPont epoxy primer. Epoxy is compatible with the galvanized panels, as well as the parts of the cab that are not galvanized. I didn't want to use the epoxy on my hood because I will not get around to using the 2K urethane on my hood until spring. By spring the epoxy will have cured, and at that point sanding becomes difficult. Cured epoxy is harder than $9.00 worth of jawbreakers.
So to seal my hood, and to have a sandable base I chose to use the same primer/sealer that I am using on my bed. The primer sealer I chose is an alkyd resin. Alkyd resins cannot be used with galvanized sheet metal because the chemical reaction causes a process to start called saponification. Saponification will eventually cause the primer to lift off of the galvanized steel.
Now I get to re-strip my hood. Not a big deal. All I am out is the primer. Thank goodness I had not yet started the body work, or finish coats. Moral of the story: make sure your paint systems are compatible with what you are working with.
Found some more evidence of my past....... Since owning a real monster truck was not possible when I was in high school I settled for the next best thing. Here are pics of my Clod Buster that I built back in high school:
Right after completion:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6V300v5MDk0/UAMTvx-kmtI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/kplL7YpsqxQ/s512/Clodbuster.jpg?gl=US)
Playing in the surf at Daytona Beach, FL on Sr trip:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b0sHZcGfRMc/UAMTv5W14OI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/4fVqktdT14g/s512/Clodbuster2.jpg?gl=US)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hqay7zzTkiM/UAMTvyn2K7I/AAAAAAAAAJQ/2a3nwYdXLQQ/s512/Clodbuster4.jpg?gl=US)
Yes, it really did float. I drove it around in the swimming pool at our hotel:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FwdnEwCKUi4/UAMTv1I0foI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/x8Hnd8b-2Mw/s512/Clodbuster3.jpg?gl=US)
After I got back home the Clod Buster had to have all new bearings. The salt water in the Atlantic, and the chlorine in the pool did a number on the metal parts. lol.
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Interesting problem...it brings up all sorts of questions for me:
1) Alkyd resin sealer? Is that a good choice for bare metal? Under 2k urethane? Same as alkyd enamels? (just asking)
2) Is there really any galvanized coating left on the hood after the aggressive sanding and rust removal?
3) Epoxy primer doesn't sand well, but I've never had a big problem, even on old stuff. If this was just a precaution I think you may be overestimating the difficulty.
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Jared you can see from my picture there were some spots that were sanded through. However the bulk of the hood is still galvanized. Enough so that I can't risk the incompatibility.
I am going back to the epoxy. I know it works. I'll just wait until warmer weather and put the 2K over the epoxy at the same time so sanding the epoxy won't be an issue. The main reason I want to immediately apply the 2K is so I get the benefit of solvent bonding. You don't get solvent bonding if the epoxy is allowed to cure, and then need to sand it for adhesion.
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Gotcha. Wet on wet is definitely less work. Can't wait to see more of the crazy build you're planning.
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As far as your question about alkyds. It is my understanding that no type of alkyd should be used on zinc galvanized steel. Bare steel is fine, just not the zinc.
More reading:
http://www.coatingsconsultants.com/articles/21PeelingCeiling.pdf
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Andy shoot me an email sometime K. I have plenty of Bear Foot 3 info to chat with you about. Thanks, Mike
theace27@hotmail.com
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Here is the steering valve I will be using to set up my hydraulic steering. When I say "set up" it is somewhat likely this valve will have too small of a displacement to adequately steer the cylinders I plan to use.
I am planning on using 2) 2"x10" cylinders in a single acting ram configuration for the steering. This valve has a 5.9 sq/in gerotor in it. That should give me a total steering range of 5.3 turns of the steering wheel lock-to-lock. As I say "set up" because I'll just have to see how it works out. Who knows, it may just be what I need.
The nice thing about the Char-Lynn valves is that once mounted, they are all almost 100% interchangeable in their mountings, and fittings. So if I want to go to say a 7.3 cu/in valve I can, and still use my factory power steering pump. This will give me a 4.3 lock-to-lock steering range. An 8.9 cu/in valve will give a factory like 3.5 turns. Anything larger than the 8.9 cu/in valve would most likely necessitate going to a larger GPM aftermarket power steering pump.
If the 2" cylinders provide enough force to steer the tires then the 8.9ci valve would be most desireable since it most closely mimics the faster stock type steering. Again, it will have to be seen how it works once the truck is in operation. Other things to consider are how wheel backspacing affects the steering radius. I may not have enough steering arc to fully utilize the total range of the steering knuckles before the tire lugs interfere with the suspension, and frame of the truck. It could be that the 8.9ci valve may only give me 2.5 turns before I run out of steering arc. If that is the case it would be too fast, or too responsive for off road use.
I don't have access to CAD, so all of my blueprinting has been done on paper. I have a good estimate of how much steering arc I'll end up with, but there are so many things to consider that paper, and slide rule are just too much work. Will I be able to use the full travel of the 10" cylinder stroke? Suspension height, suspension component location, wheel width and backspacing, tire shoulder radius, suspension cycle arcs. The engineering minded will understand. ;)
To keep pressure off of the king pins, I plan on a deep back spacing for the wheels. I am trying to minimize the scrub radius, but this may increase steering effort more than I want. That can be offset by boosting the output pressure of the power steering pump to the max 1400psi., which I plan to do anyway. It isn't like the pump will be producing 1400psi all of the time, it will only build that much pressure when demand is required.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Qj5mPL5IB5I/UpabcfdZJYI/AAAAAAAAAXw/781GYUVRmKg/s512/072.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L1hqh4ZIiew/Upabe7G4eWI/AAAAAAAAAX4/eOh6KTzfZdc/s512/073.JPG)
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This is an awesome build. That old M54 was so cool. I love some of the detailed step-by-step you are sharing with us. Keep it up!
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I have a dana 60 in my Jeep and use an 8" stroke cylinder, I get full lock to lock steering. 10" will be a bit too long IMO.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
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Love the build BTW.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
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silverj-
The 5-ton steer axle has 11" of travel on its tie rod. That is why I need the 10"s. A 2 1/2 ton military uses an 8" perfectly.
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Gotcha, read through most of the thread and missed the 5ton section I presume.
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Incredible build thread man. That thing is amazing and great job saving that deuce. I was a 63bravo1P in the 82nd and I turned alot of wrenches on old deuces and 5 tons
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Well I guess now that the holidays are over I'll drop in a little update.
I had my springs built this week. Back in the day, old school monster trucks almost all used custom leaf springs at all four wheel positions. Since I decided to go full old school I had 4 leaf springs built by the shop that did the springs for most of the major midwest monster trucks before four links became the norm. The shop I used is St Louis Spring. Years ago they were known as St Louis Spring, and Brake. Some, but not all of the trucks they built springs for are Bigfoot, Bearfoot, Taurus, Crimson Giant (Marvin Smith), and many others that I can't remember off the top of my head. They had one whole wall covered with posters from original monster trucks that they built springs for.
I can't say enough about these guys. Jim was a gentleman to work with. He built my springs exactly the way I specified them. Unlike other people I have dealt with when having things custom fabricated over the years, he never tried to change my plans just to make the job easier on his end. Every comment was "Yep, yep, we can do it". He even bent in a little more arch than he normally would at my insistance.
These springs have about 18 1/2" of arch from the eyes -spring stood up, measured from the floor (17 1/2" from the eye center) to the point where they bolt to the axle. I am hoping to stay away from going with a huge block under the spring. Right now it looks like I can get away with using a 2 1/2" square block. That is much better than the 6" or taller blocks seen on some of the old 80s monster trucks. Overall length with the weight on the springs should be at 60". This is much longer than a factory spring which should give a better ride than using a stock length 52" eye to eye spring with the same 18" of arch.
By using the same springs front, and rear, the weight of the engine and transmission in the front should give the truck a very slight downhill rake to its stance. And by slight, I am expecting it to be so slight as to be unoticeable. From the perspective of looking up at it, the truck should look like it is sitting level. The main concern is that it not look like it is running uphill. That would require more rear block to correct, a situation I hope to avoid.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z3CM0sX5dNA/UtcpY4moxLI/AAAAAAAAAZM/_X-B5XRsvOM/s512/monster%2520springs%2520002.JPG)
This isn't the first set of springs these guys have built for me. I had them build a 6" lift rear set for this same truck 20+ years ago, and then sold them as I was looking to go higher with my lift.
Hopefully, anyday now I can start on fabricating the frame. Once the frame is complete this truck should go together pretty fast. I already have most of the major components including all of the body, and interior. The only major component I am lacking is the puller type transfer case.
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one heck of a build you have going. beautiful paint work too. love the blaster, I will be copying that when its time for my build.
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Here is a little update morsel:
I bought this a few years ago for almost nothing. It is a serpentine belt assembly off of a 1990 truck with a 454. It should fit right on my 454. It should even clear my tall valve covers. Some of the parts are brand new, and I intend on cleaning/restoring/painting what isn't new.
The power steering pump is from a hydro boost type brake booster so it should be plenty adequate to supply my hydraulic steering set up.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JPPQSbHPFSs/Up_ni99dhCI/AAAAAAAAAYI/P7eoY5AQv24/s512/004%2520%252810%2529.JPG)
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I must say, you have done some incredible work. Kinda sad to see the puller part of the build disappear but being a child of the 80's I remember all the "old school" monster trucks and it will be quite the site to see a "new" old school truck run around among all the new technology stuff. The paint on the cab looks amazing! I must have missed it but what paint did you go with? I am mildly restoring an 87' K20 myself and looking for paint options. Again, great build this far and can't wait to see what comes next.
Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk
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Cowboy, I used DuPont Nason. It is not a premium paint per sé, but good enough for a "factory" type paint job. Nason is intended for body shops that do quick turn around. Don't get me wrong, it is a good paint, but if you are building a show car there are better options.
IMHO, the Nason clear coat IS better than what GM is currently spraying on our new trucks. It seems the Nason clear resists scratches better than the OE GM clear.
Don't worry about the puller part. As I mentioned earlier in this thread I have a cab located so I could build the puller at a later date. The puller parts aren't going anywhere unless someone offers me a lot of money. Hopefully pulling will regain its popularity in a few years and I can pull locally without driving long distances.
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I'll give this old thread a little update.
Hasn't been much going on, mostly because of the weather. I have been using the time locating parts. Just got some new knuckle boots for when I tear down the front axle to paint it. Probably wont be a whole lot of progress anytime soon as my youngest son has just started his senior year of high school baseball. My calendar looks to be pretty full for a while.
I did score a perfect o.e. GM tailgate. (no pics yet) I was thinking of starting a search to find one, when oddly, one found me........ A sign from God to keep going on this build. :) Now I have ALL of my body components, and ALL are o.e. GM. 8)
Right now my focus is getting the frame built. After I get the frame done this thing should start to look like the finished product more rapidly. One reason I don't have the frame done is because I had a mental block on the frame. I have finally decided to sub frame the factory frame. I had originally wanted to build a totally new custom frame. A custom frame would be stronger, and lighter. However, "back in the day" most (not all) monsters used their factory frame, with reinforcements. By using my factory frame I'll still have the original truck's VIN in the build up. If you look back over this thread you will notice very little remains of the truck I purchased in January 1988, so that will be one more original component. I am thinking this truck will be a look pretty, not a play pretty so a stronger custom frame is not critical. A play pretty will be the next build. ;D
By using the factory frame to build the monster my sled puller days will more or less be finished. Selling my weights, and weight bracket can help raise funds to finish this project. Already thinking of swapping my Dana60, and NP205 into my 1994 K2500.
High steer arms:
I have looked all over the web and have not seen an idea like this. Nothing on pirate4x4, or any of the other monster/mud sites.
With the slow pace of this build I am able to explore many ideas, and work them to the fullest. As with my idea of not irreversably altering the 5-tons, I came up with this idea. For steering many guys just weld a bracket to the axle housing, and on the tie rod for their steering cylinder. And most guys are only using one double acting cylinder. I want hydraulically balanced steering so I am using two double acting cylinders. By using two 1.5" bore cylinders cross connected, I will have the same surface area as a single 2" bore cylinder.
I also didn't like the idea of putting all of the steering pressure on the tie rod, and cast steel steering knuckle arms. So, with some pondering, and measuring, I came up with using the old pintle hitch braces as high steer arms. These are 1/2x6" flat steel and should have atleast, the strength of the factory forged steering arm.
Pictured below is the factory 5-ton truck steering arm that transmits all of the steering force from the steering box through the front axle. All of the force is on those four 5/8" studs on the driver's side steering knuckle. I am turning the axle around opposite of how it was positioned in the 5-ton, so that the left becomes the right, and the right becomes the left. In my monster the tie rod will be in front of the axle. In the 5-ton it is behind. Also the pumpkin will be located right instead of left.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Uz-v2YnSvWw/UypDsJpFyQI/AAAAAAAAAaU/TKZfF-mPIXc/s512/017%2520%25284%2529.JPG)
By using these I cut them into workable pieces to give me an arm similar to the arm on the opposite (tie rod) side of the knuckle.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pSDNmhGY7QE/UypDkj4HeTI/AAAAAAAAAZs/wMtOaiB7ylE/s512/014%2520%25284%2529.JPG)
These are the bosses, and king pin cap that I can use to bolt my high steer arms to.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--6-U0NsPciQ/UypDjH2IlVI/AAAAAAAAAZk/S0B6kxFAQvo/s512/013%2520%25285%2529.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xYJ6OQutbVU/UypDlzCMPtI/AAAAAAAAAZ0/ulmlmi7-QGQ/s512/015%2520%25287%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aGGM-TzVPHM/UypDnGpQhTI/AAAAAAAAAZ8/euCj19Hovis/s512/016%2520%25283%2529.JPG)
These are the arms after having been cut out from the pintle braces.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HHsCwblIzAE/UypDprPgy_I/AAAAAAAAAaE/ep59Pe__ppU/s512/013%2520%25286%2529.JPG)
And here are the arms after being finished, and the opposite end of the pintle brace that was fashioned into an additional support for the steering arm.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qaDKWEIDaaw/UypDq48kv5I/AAAAAAAAAaM/3EndwLD8_WE/s512/016%2520%25285%2529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6-UtQ24aJw8/UypDtsuIc2I/AAAAAAAAAac/SJSzU7swywU/s512/018%2520%25286%2529.JPG)
Since I will have 2 cylinders there will be high steer arms on both knuckles mirroring each other. I have only showed one side because the other side is the same only in the opposite. I plan on building another bracket that will bolt to the ring of bolts in the center of the axle that hold down the differential for the anchor ends of the 2 cylinders.
I feel like this is a great way to connect the steering without welding to the 5-ton axle. If ever anyone wants to return these parts to a 5-ton army truck they will be able to.
By using the steering arms on the knuckle I will spread out the force applied to steer the truck over 8- 5/8" bolts instead of 4. Also by using the brace that bolts under the steering arm it gives it a means to resist deflection of the upper steer arm. The two bolts low on the knuckle that the brace bolts to are 5/8" as well. This brings the total number of bolts that transmit steering torque to 12- 5/8" bolts. Of course, all bolts will be grade 8+. And by using two different mounting points that are nearer, and farther away from the center of kingpin rotation it puts the whole steering device in double shear. By engineering it this way you lessen the likelyhood that the bolts will break off, or loosen.
Hopefully this set up will greatly diminish the odds of a failure. By using two cylinders, and steer arms, one on each knuckle, the load is spread out over both knuckles, and the tie rod only serves to keep the steering on center.
Steering effort: My steer arms are pilot drilled at 14" from the center of rotation of the king pins. The cross connected 1.5" cylinders have a combined surface area of 3.092 sq/in. A factory GM Saginaw steering pump is capable of reliably producing 1450psi of pressure. This will result in 4,483# of hydraulic force. When you apply that force to the 14" long arm this should result in 5,230 ft/lbs of torque at the knuckles to steer the big 66" Goodyears. If my calculations are correct, I shouldn't have any problems steering my truck sitting still at an idle on dry pavement........And if I do I can always put more air in the tires. ;D
Hopefully, the next time I post an update it will be with progress on the frame.
Ta for now,
Engineer
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I do believe Engineer, that you should not have a problem with the brackets you made and how you set it up to handle the strain by spreading it out over both knuckles evenly.
If I read this right and understand it, your dual rams will be centered off the pumkin right ?
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Yes, I will build another bracket for the center. That bracket will bolt to the ring of bolts that hold the pumpkin.
The center bracket will hold the anchor ends of the cylinders.
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Just a little bump to get the thread back to the top of the page, and to give everyone an update. Oh, yeah, and a tease. ;D
Well here is the tailgate that I mentioned that I bought. $100.00. O.E. GM, no dents, and no rust. Of course I'll strip it to bare metal before painting it. Did I mention it is O.E.? (DISCLAIMER: Not trying to be a snob to anyone who has used aftermarket body parts, but I desparately want all of my body parts to be GM. Since I missed an opportunity to buy one of these trucks when they were brand new, it is kind of important to get back there by what ever means necessary. This '77 was my first truck, so sentimental value and all, it is very critical.)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6K782Vj-MBA/U2BOYyMu6II/AAAAAAAAAbA/KNHEvwLNyjg/s512/yup%2520003.JPG)
Here it is with the stainless trim band that I bought about 25 years ago after I first bought the truck. Looks like I will finally get to use it. I bought it and it didn't fit my '77 tailgate, so I just held onto it for all these years. I think I paid $25.00 for it. Money well spent when you consider what these things are going for on fleabay. Before GM discontinued the part number they were selling for north of $500.00. :o The "Chevrolet" emblem is still available from GM. It is still in the parts chain, and has a good number. Around $35.00 if you are cozy with your dealer's parts man.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nJZKJC_V_Y8/U2BOdZUG20I/AAAAAAAAAbY/u_qo6t6IZUE/s512/things%2520012.JPG)
Modified the front of the frame for the '87 model bumper. I'm still looking for a different front bumper. The one I have has some minor dents in it. Not so bad that it can't be used, but it is not perfect, so I'll keep searching the swap meets, craigslist, ebay, et.al.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-C5khxxAKxFY/U2BOX6QCmGI/AAAAAAAAAa4/GDCa-9jZ3Go/s512/cool%2520007.JPG)
Here is a roll bar that I have been trying to buy. Guy doesn't want to sell, so I may have to bother him more, and more. Throw in a little pestering... Old school monster trucks need a triple/double roll bar it is just not right without it. Oh, yeah, and at least 5 KC lights. ;)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pEEyBG-7r6g/U2BOcTHpzuI/AAAAAAAAAbQ/8nyZhXT3FY8/s512/things%2520011.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wbnzRI18sas/U2BOaonVWlI/AAAAAAAAAbI/Z1OVaXvKx98/s512/things%2520010%2520%25282%2529.JPG)
I have been working on the monster frame, but I want to get a little more done before I post pics of what I have there, so stay tuned......
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Dude such an AWESOME BUILD! I love it! You inspired me to now sandblast everything instead of sanding and polishing it with elbow grease lol, man what a great build!
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This update centers on a thread I found on another board. It is relevant to my build because it documents what happened to the Bearfoot 3 truck as it evolved with time. As can be seen with my own build our trucks evolve if we own them long enough. Sometimes for the good, sometimes for the bad. You guys can use your own judgement on wether mine is in the good, or bad class.....
The Bearfoot 3 truck was sold to a guy who lives near Springfield MO. He repainted it black, and named the truck "Mr. Bad".
After a few years, the guy who bought the Bearfoot 3 truck tried to sell it without success. (He obviously didn't have my number. ;)) Anyhow, after not being able to sell the truck he parted it out, but saved the core truck and built it back into a street truck. After many years of normal use he has started a second rebuild.
While I would have loved to have been able to have bought the Bearfoot 3/Mr. Bad monster truck in it's full glory, at least it still lives on in a very respectable, and dignified state. Far too many of these original "old school" monsters litter the landscape rotting away behind workshops, in barns, along fence rows, and so on. Since monster truck exhibition demanded more racing, and free style, the old school trucks couldn't keep up. Some lived/live on as ride trucks but some were simply parked only to rot away having shed their profitable parts that could be used in other applications.
Take a look at where Bearfoot 3/Mr. Bad is now. If you are a member of that board you might even drop in that thread to encourage Ted in his project.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=529929
Now for my truck........
No pics today. I have some but will wait until there is more progress.
I have been working on the frame. Yesterday I built the front of the frame, the spring hanger boxes for the front springs, and the ladder bar/transfer case mount that will be in the center of the frame.
I also started disassembly of the puller portion of the truck. I've removed the truss work from the frame. The puller hitch has been removed. Next I'll be removing the transmission, transfer case, and clutch. Nobody has stepped forward to buy any of the puller parts so I'll have them to build a puller at a later date if I so desire.
I am going to go back with a stock drivetrain since I don't see the need for the heavy duty parts that pulling demands. I have a 2wd 465 transmission that I will be using in lieu of the 4x4 trans/trans case. Also going back to a stock type 12" clutch and factory aluminum bell housing.
As has been the case since before this build began baseball dominates my calendar. I am amped up as much as ever to continue work on this build, so check back often and I'll update when I have progress.
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Waiting for some more pics and updates engineer ! I like your work and build ... It's top notch
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Time to kick this one back to the top.
I have been working on my truck when I am able. A little here, a little there. Youngest son's summer baseball schedule has wrapped up, so maybe I can get back to working on the truck. The youngest son will be playing baseball this next year in college, so we'll see if I can find the time to work on my project. His college is a couple hundred miles from here, so seeing the games will be only at select times.
There are a bunch of updates, namely the frame, but I am going to save that update until the frame is completed. It will make more sense to do it that way.
I am also working a deal (finally) to trade the two GoodYear Super Terra Grip XT tires that I have for one of the older 10-ply bias GoodYear Super Terra Grip treaded tires that will match the other three that I have. I am glad this finally worked itself out. I don't need the extra tire laying around as much as I prefer to have a full set of 4 tires that have matching tread.
Here is what I'll make this update about. (with pics, and who doesn't love pics ;))
After consideration, the best plan for my truck is a factory cooling system. For reliability, cost, and simplicity. The following is a picture of a Delphi replacement radiator for the 73~87(91) that replaces the factory 4 core. A guy I know bought it, and used it for about a year. I gave $75 for it. I thought it was worth that. I need to clean it out. It appears it had only rusty water ran through it. (ick)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NqzlSTx4_vA/Vi14SFEP1nI/AAAAAAAAAlw/lZJcmkpfE9M/s512-Ic42/454%252520028.JPG)
It had quite a few bruises in the fins where the po didn't take care to install it gently. As you can see, I was able to straighten all of the fins. One benefit to this radiator is that aluminum throws off heat better than brass. The other huge benefit to using this radiator is that it only weighs about 1/3 the weight of my previous brass 4 core. This radiator is a Delphi unit, but the tank is clearly marked "GM Harrison".
In a previous post I showed a picture of the 454 serpentine belt system I am going to use. One thing I didn't get was a fan. The fan I wanted to use was in my wife's 2001 Silverado 2500HD with the 6.0L engine. A modern looking, 9 blade plastic jobby that will be compatible with the reverse rotation water pump. The fan that should have came with my 454 serpentine belt assembly was an old, ugly, steel, 5 blade, antique type design. Problem is... the 9 blade 6.0L fan clutch uses one big giant nut that screws onto a stud on the water pump hub. I could use a Vortec 7400 water pump but then I would need to find a pulley as well.....and I already have the 1990 model 4 bolt hub water pump.
I can't help but thinking that the more modern broad paddle 9 blade fan from the 6.0L application will draw more air than the OE steel 1990 model year 5 blade curmudgeon.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XixBjnA1LG8/Vi14TCSH4AI/AAAAAAAAAl4/d1bXjKG_M4M/s512-Ic42/033%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
I just love how Chevrolet made everything interchangeable. I went ahead and bought the fan. $29.79 my cost, new GM. It seems the fan clutch for the older 4 bolt hub water pumps have the same bolt pattern, and hub register diameter where the fan bolts to it. Actually, the fan clutch in this picture looks in every way identical to the one in my wife's 2500HD with the exception being how it attaches to the water pump hub.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iHJldUn30B0/Vi14UMyUw8I/AAAAAAAAAmA/s3wCJTE6Ewc/s512-Ic42/034%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
The fan clutch that I selected was the most heavy duty in the listings by spec. This one is an OE unit off of a wrecked 1993 Chevy K2500 C6P (heavy duty) with a 4.10 gear. The book shows a more aggressive clutch for the lower axle ratios, so that is what I went with. Additionally I aquired the water pump pulley from the same truck since it had an over drive transmission. The newer pulley is a smaller diameter than the one I was going to use. My original water pump pulley was from a 1990 454 truck that didn't have an over drive transmission. GM engineers decided the water pump needed to spin faster with the OD transmissions to help circulate the water adequately while cruising in OD, and because of this, the newer pulley is a smaller diameter. In the GM books, the 1991.5+ 5.7L, and 7.4L engine show to use the same part number water pump pulley.
My theory is that the faster water pump speed will help keep my engine cool while idling at lower engine RPMs which is where I figure this truck will be most of the time it is in operation. I see very little high RPM hot rodding in this truck's future, and when it does, a 160F thermostat will keep the coolant from circulating too fast.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F0jTSBnrZ4g/Vi14VaTCBII/AAAAAAAAAmI/PeimzwK8iS8/s512-Ic42/035%252520%2525283%252529.JPG)
I also cleaned up my factory 454 fan shroud. This should work perfectly with the long water pump, and 19" diameter 6.0L factory fan. Again, looking to keep the factory reliability. In the above picture you are able to see my new GM radiator top plate with the new GM mounting isolators. I also am looking to collect the factory 1988+ spring steel radiator hose clamps. After using these, and having used the old stainless worm gear clamps. I am a firm believer in the newer constant torque spring steel units.
Did I mention how much I love Chevrolet for its ease of compatibility across many different models, years, and options?
Did I mention how much I love Chevrolet?
Hopefully, in a week or so, the new (not so new, but new to me) tire will be here. When it does arrive, I'll post pics.
Ta for now,
Engineer
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Gathering parts is half the fun, that is if you don't loose them somewhere. ::)
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Haha.
Yeah, I have never actually "lost" any of the parts, but by the time I got around to using some of them it seems they weren't where I left them. Can truck parts walk around on their own?
I know my oldest son has claimed some stuff that I didn't think I would need. He is still pounding me for my Dana60 Spicer lockouts.
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Well, the last 10-ply, bias, 66x43-25, GoodYear Super Terra Grip tire made it home today:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IUJmsUngSc4/Vi13qflx4OI/AAAAAAAAAlc/Y82AvUpFvyg/s512-Ic42/002%252520%2525289%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DAZzewfsOts/Vi13rdvOkaI/AAAAAAAAAlk/WvU6snc8P9I/s512-Ic42/004%252520%2525289%252529.JPG)
It has some slight weathering, but that is to be expected from a tire that has been in the out-of-doors for the last 30~35 years. One other thing, and I doubt I'll make much of this but, during production of these tires, GoodYear made a change before, or about the time they introduced the Terra XT. The two tires I am going to use for the fronts have GoodYear in large, about 4" letters. The two tires I am using for the rear are the smaller GoodYear in 1.5" letters. The tires with the smaller letters are older, earlier production.
"Back in the day" if a guy was buying 4 new tires for a monster truck build he would most likely have 4 matching tires from the same production lot. During the early to mid 1980s that would have meant the big letters.
In any event, I am happy, I now have a full set of 4 matching tires (sort of). But, I still need to find one more wheel.
If things don't change, maybe I can get some time to work on the frame this Saturday.
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Bearfoot 3 in the ZZ Top "Sleeping Bag" video.
http://youtu.be/TKJymx2KDWo
Buddy of mine is driving the truck in this video. His cousin, whom I went to high school with brought home some of the movie $100 bills seen in the bag stolen from the girl at the first part of the video.
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That was pretty cool. How did he get to be in a video with ZZ Top ?
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Keith Todd, who owned the truck had some medical issues so Jim, Keith's oldest son, drove the truck for the ZZ Top video shoot.
The interior views of the truck are of a different GM square body as the Bearfoot truck's interior was blue, not red.
I'm not sure how Bearfoot was chosen for the video. At the time the Bearfoot name was owned by Fred Schafer. Fred Schafer is family to the Todds. I don't know that Jim, and I ever had that conversation about how Bearfoot was chosen but I assume Fred had something to do with setting that up. Bearfoot 3 was Keith's first and only monster truck and Fred already had contacts with promotion agencies that set up that sort of thing.
I don't remember the time line, but I think the Todds only had the truck about 8 months before they had to sell it due to Keith's medical situation.
If you see Bearfoot 3 in 4 Wheel & Off Road, Four Wheeler, or Off Road magazine the red headed guy with glasses driving the truck is Jim Todd. He is the one driving the truck while it was on the Mississippi River, pulling the rail cars, climbing the gravel pile.
Since I started this build I had asked Jim if he had more unpublished pictures of Bearfoot 3. He is supposed to be letting me take a look, and make copies of his pictures. He has albums full of pictures from the shows they did. Pictures that don't make it to the magazines like during tire changes, transmission changes, etc. If I ever find time I'll have to get back to him to see if he has found them.
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Well, I have been talking about the frame over the last several posts. I finally got it to the point I feel good about posting pictures of it.
This is where I am as of right now:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ts9LNvnVcdk/Vi1xoC6XEKI/AAAAAAAAAiU/RBEo1kpfIng/s512-Ic42/1st%252520frame5.JPG)
And this is how I got to where I am:
I wanted to build a subframe to gain the needed lift so I started off with a very basic, primitive, 1 dimensional line drawing to verify what I needed. Using the springs as a basis I sought to build the subframe around the frame work that would get the body at least 6" above the tops of the tires.......No fender cutting for me, thanks.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6oSr-aaCE9M/Vi1ufviqNpI/AAAAAAAAAhw/de5TzZOR7OI/s512-Ic42/IMG_2734.JPG)
After I decided what I needed, and what dimensions to make it, I started the cutting, and welding.
This is the spring hangers, and the center support for the ladder bars:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QqTzZyMkknM/Vi15p77rJ_I/AAAAAAAAAmU/B0f-mrLrap0/s512-Ic42/engine%252520035.JPG)
After those were finished I set about welding them to the 3"x3" square tube main beams.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yv2GRYA_4io/Vi15tlKtO5I/AAAAAAAAAmk/-1pZjfNeizU/s512-Ic42/engine%252520037.JPG)
During the process I had clamped, and bolted everything together so as to keep everyting an exact mirror of the other:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q9JpFx6fwjs/Vi15rxM3F3I/AAAAAAAAAmc/uXfsXPhtpGI/s512-Ic42/engine%252520036.JPG)
Then I laid everything out in my shop. This took my youngest son, and I what seemed like forever to do. I spent at least an hour getting everything level, then square before I welded in the cross members:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pief3I4Wf40/Vi15uwdgkuI/AAAAAAAAAms/Y8krAfuGwu8/s512-Ic42/engine%252520053.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2mJBW-4wGqI/Vi15vxXgQZI/AAAAAAAAAm0/o22SvKR_O50/s512-Ic42/engine%252520054.JPG)
With more detail added:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SP33gHwl99Q/Vi17NOOcZMI/AAAAAAAAAnY/Mgflq0qy_x4/s512-Ic42/1st%252520frame2.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VrVPRjEQdps/Vi17Rrxe6uI/AAAAAAAAAn4/6b-mPk-4zqw/s512-Ic42/1st%252520frame3.JPG)
In this view you can see the x-bracing, and the threaded rod that held the brackets in line so the located end of the leaf springs would be square, true, and parallel.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mNJCxnQc5bE/Vi17OHGNFrI/AAAAAAAAAng/XgNwbBH7-jI/s512-Ic42/1st%252520frame7.JPG)
The square structure at the right center of the photo is for the group 31 battery which will be located under the bed just forward of the fuel cell. The 20 gallon fuel cell will set inside the frame in the large opening in the center of this photo just above the rear axle, also under the bed.
Here is a mock up of the pintle hitch as I was drilling the bottom holes:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CXcMKni2BS8/Vi150L_0TAI/AAAAAAAAAnM/NgH9MVxSWtU/s512-Ic42/025%252520%2525284%252529.JPG)
These are the upper shock brackets:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ukzfDdn3wXQ/Vi15x8vYMgI/AAAAAAAAAnE/ecfG_7ENiWc/s512-Ic42/024%252520%2525283%252529.JPG)
The lower end of the shocks will be mounted on a bracket bolted to the spring clamps that will hold the axle in place.
This is a pic of the brackets mounted to the frame:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DVB2pDjubZ8/Vi17SlkkyiI/AAAAAAAAAoA/p6yk-6BTElo/s512-Ic42/1st%252520frame6.JPG)
There will be 4 shocks per wheel total.
And of course once the frame was all welded together I couldn't wait to get it filpped over and set it on its springs:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VgxMM2cp-fs/Vi17PUSuGoI/AAAAAAAAAno/iJnDOkjuLWs/s512-Ic42/1st%252520frame11.JPG)
At this point with a flat, obstruction free top, and a standard 34" width, you could put this sub frame under just about any truck with a 131.5"~133" wheelbase and have a monster truck:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mngz0Wl6898/Vi17QVQ8AiI/AAAAAAAAAnw/aq9SEwbOCdg/s512-Ic42/1st%252520frame1.JPG)
A couple views of the pintle hitch, and lifting lugs from the M-54:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YDsyK5EDvZo/Vi17Tp3x3zI/AAAAAAAAAoI/wxr4hgRempw/s512-Ic42/1st%252520frame8.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PA1-8VSsNVE/Vi17UsqEDoI/AAAAAAAAAoQ/yGQnBCCQuKo/s512-Ic42/1st%252520frame9.JPG)
Looking at this picture again for a moment:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QqTzZyMkknM/Vi15p77rJ_I/AAAAAAAAAmU/B0f-mrLrap0/s512-Ic42/engine%252520035.JPG)
Had I started this build as a monster truck, and not a sled puller, I would have made these spring, and ladder bar mounts longer to reach all the way vertically to the GM frame, and eliminated the 3x3 tube main beam. By trussing the spring hangers with the 2x2 tube as I have done, the factory frame alone would have been plenty stout for this build.
Since I had the frame painted, and the cab on it, I didn't want the welding smoke and heat on the truck, and then have to repaint it all and deal with over spray. And anyway, the 3x3 tube only adds about 100lbs to the overall total weight of the truck so there isn't a real penalty for having in there.
At this point I am ready to set the '77 on top of the monster frame and weld the brackets on. After that I'll pull it back apart, sand blast the monster frame's welds, prime, and paint it all. Like the GM frame that I am already finished with, I'm going to stay with the GM Adobe Gold Metallic for the monster frame.
Man, I don't see how guys would build their trucks in 6-8-10 week time frames back in the 80s. This thing is taking me forever. :-\
Anyone want to volunteer to do the sand blast, prime, and paint for me? lol
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Amazing work! All that in gold is going to be a thing of beauty.
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Very nice work indeed. Will be something to see the truck just sitting on that frame, keep up the work and pics. ;D
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Excellent work on the pulling truck that I had followed before I became a member on this site. Everything on that is the way it should be from the mechanical aspect to the paint and body. This monster truck build is no different. Great work on everything. I am a welder by trade and the frame work looks very good. What is your wall thickness on the monster truck frame work? About your sandblasting, my wife said she would be more than happy to get that done for you :). Keep up the top notch work and great pictures.
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11ga on the 2x2 tubing. 3/16" on the 3x3 tube. 1/4" on everything else.
And in true retro 80s fashion I decided to use my stick welder instead of a mig. Most of the frame was only tacked together before any of the welding runs were completed. Stick welders have a horrible tendency to bend metal. Dealing with that undoubtedly added to the time this project has taken to build.
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Sounds good Engineer, I kinda thought that was some stick welding with all the brown smoke from the flux. I don't do to much stick except for out in the field. I do enjoy doing it and love the smell.
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Ordered the 16 shocks for this project recently. Got the rest of them on Saturday. I have just bought more shocks for this project than I ever have in all of my vehicle ownership history in total.
I centered my buildup around what I thought to be a pretty standard, and easy to aquire shock model. All 16 of these are 4" lift kit shocks that fit the rear of 1/2, and 3/4 ton 73~87 Chevy full size pickup trucks.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MWDGyepXydw/Vi12om_uaNI/AAAAAAAAAk8/YAc3cyaRPEY/s512-Ic42/goodies%252520008.JPG)
The valving is going to be really stiff, but then again the spring rate will be off the chart as well. However, this build is about form, not function. If it proves that the valving is simply too stiff I can drain half of the shocks of their oil making them into drone shocks. Again, this build is about replicating an 80s monster, not looking to build an active off-road suspension.
As with anything I do I like to mock things up by assembling them multiple times before actually doing the final build. The following two pictures show how the shocks will look once the truck is completed. The wood block that the shocks are resting on approximate the location of the lower shock mount and where the lower bracket will place them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hlY3J-SoAzE/Vi12qq_kjTI/AAAAAAAAAlM/kVviezISiQQ/s512-Ic42/goodies%252520011.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oQJvtLWNo8U/Vi12pvZ75bI/AAAAAAAAAlE/Bwc8wrPP4Sc/s512-Ic42/goodies%252520010.JPG)
Now I need to decide on what colors I want to go with for my shocks. When I first built my '77 into a monster with the D60/14-bolt, and 44" Gumbos I had orange shocks with black boots. TrailMaster shocks if I remember correctly. However, I may just stick with white shocks and go with blue boots......Still have some time to think about that one.
........or I could go with pink shock boots, and pink KC light covers circa 1989.....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f_6GhmSdCQA/Vi12v7qWEXI/AAAAAAAAAlU/TdzUMpp9-rQ/s512-Ic42/ATL.jpg)
.....or maybe NOT!
I have also decided on a couple of major changes to the frame. Updates on that will be forthcoming in a future post.
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Looks good Engineer, I firmly believe in mocking things up and making patterns as well. I do a lot of fabricating where I work and it is always better to measure twice and cut once then to cut welds and start over again. I remember those trucks from the 80's and 90's with the bright colors and wild paint jobs. I still have a stacks of those magazines in my closet. Really enjoying this build. Can't wait to see the final product.
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Awesome project engineer
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Love it!
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So here is what we had after my last update.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ts9LNvnVcdk/Vi1xoC6XEKI/AAAAAAAAAiU/RBEo1kpfIng/s512-Ic42/1st%252520frame5.JPG)
I alluded to a couple of major changes with the frame build in a prior post. Well I was able to do most of the changes, but the weather took a turn for the worse around here and I need the main floor space in my shop to shelter my daily driver from the plunging temperatures.
The frame isn't quite complete. There is one major step, and several little ones. However, I am seeing a light at the end of the tunnel.
Looking back over this thread most would conclude that I can't seem to make up my mind. Well, I can't form an argument against that notion. Hahaha!
After some more pencil, and calculator time I decided my "subframe" would be adequately stout enough to be the primary frame. I will not be using the factory frame in this build. It isn't necessary, it will add weight needlessly, and using it would prohibit the one big change that I added to make this a more 80's period correct build.
Since I no longer have the factory frame to bolt the body to I had to build new body mounts. Again, pencil, tape measure, calculator, and geometric tools were called into service.
This is the frame as it sets right now:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--o76sjFuuZw/Vi1yagfRJpI/AAAAAAAAAkU/NNMt5cuWlvo/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame19.JPG)
And here is how I got this far......
I started by finding my centers, stretching a plumb line, and triangulating the front cab mounts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KGfU_LZJ-k0/Vi1xw9CuS1I/AAAAAAAAAjM/4oK4hWTnNiQ/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame6.JPG)
These photos show the front cab mounts up close:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zrnByQh--g0/Vi1xpfroElI/AAAAAAAAAic/6I8VfLSANh4/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame.JPG)
Since fancy laser metal cutting didn't come until after the era of classic monster trucks you don't see fancy scroll work or anything of that sort. However, it didn't stop aspiring metalsmiths from adding a bit of creativity. As can be seen all over this build I have notched my corners to give everything an octagon theme. The front cab mount is one such example.
The 3"x3"x2.75" square block sitting on the cab mount will space the cab off the frame a full 3". This should allow maximum body height without an annoying gap between the bottom of the cab pinch weld, and the top of the frame.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OzpVkGRFtdg/Vi1xsA0v14I/AAAAAAAAAis/pdnJfdNObvQ/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame2.JPG)
This picture shows the front cab mounts in place with the rear cab mounts setting on the 4" channel crossmember I added to make the rear cab support structure:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jSDzcZ1RS-o/Vi1xyHm5yvI/AAAAAAAAAjU/JXisr90S7tI/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame7.JPG)
The following two pictures show the completed cab mounts, and the trusswork that will replace the support that was to be in part provided by using the factory frame:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EUck8hlQUzw/Vi1zaeGuaVI/AAAAAAAAAkg/GMuhwwePibE/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame18.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iAD-w7q2uyI/Vi1zbnX6qjI/AAAAAAAAAko/0oz562hcSJM/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame20.JPG)
Also visible in the second picture is the front bed mounts. More on that later.
This picture shows that the two center crossmembers that were flat originally were raised 4" to facilitate the install of an SCS, or similar type transfer case. The jury is still out as to what brand of case I'll end up with, but now I know the intermediate driveshaft will be in position for good u-joint angle.
The object in front of the transfer case is the rear mount for the SM465 2wd transmission. This should be in perfect factory position as it relates to the body, and floor board.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Hx8aazHEQrw/Vi1qW9oPAGI/AAAAAAAAAd8/qo9MGrTLSTw/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame15.JPG)
This photo, looking forward, is the transmission mount:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kqqA1N3ShCs/Vi1x42a_MeI/AAAAAAAAAkE/QxnuAmqYARI/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame14.JPG)
Front body, or radiator support mounting will be tasked after the body is set over onto the monster frame. I'll be using these. They were sourced from a C30 circa 1985. I'll have to make brackets to mount these to the frame. Ideally, I'll have the correct radiator support mounts with correct front bumper location.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nrfn-t-EuRM/Vi10lpaMk4I/AAAAAAAAAkw/_TUxKwoB2SE/s512-Ic42/boo%252520006.JPG)
Revisiting this photo for a moment the two cradle mounts are the front bed mounts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iAD-w7q2uyI/Vi1zbnX6qjI/AAAAAAAAAko/0oz562hcSJM/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame20.JPG)
I plan on making the bed into a tilt bed as was all the rage in the mid to late 1980s. the 4" angle in the lower left of the picture with the 4 holes drilled in it will be the lower mount for the lift cylinder.
The bed will sit on a cradle that the lift cylinder mounts to, and pivots off of the mount on the rear of the frame. In no way will I have to modify the bed itself. It will retain all of its factory integrity.
This is the rear mount for the bed where the bed will pivot so it will tilt:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--Md4WZPEoLk/Vi1xtQjFG_I/AAAAAAAAAi0/F-LP_9E2XFg/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame3.JPG)
Also, there was gobs, and gobs of fabricating for other things as my mind went wild.
This is the mount for the suspension's bump stops:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cItqnEjsL-c/Vi1x2qK9K2I/AAAAAAAAAj0/YIriWt1t4Oc/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame12.JPG)
Welded into place:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0_oLt_OnUG8/Vi1x3wpsNZI/AAAAAAAAAj8/BddsjldpqSE/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame13.JPG)
The bumpstop I am using:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rrrcFYJNeqE/VhRxQ5lAbiI/AAAAAAAAAY0/pE3qfcemFUU/s512-Ic42/truck%252520009%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
Mounted the fuel filter/water separator:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SWFiLLQd8lk/Vi1x0UQIYWI/AAAAAAAAAjk/SQguhqt23VM/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame10.JPG)
These blocks are to mount the air tank to:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8WVKvcvVdVI/Vi1xzA3oZkI/AAAAAAAAAjc/8-f66rTz9PU/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame9.JPG)
I have an air tank from a wrecked 18-wheeler that I am using as a storage tank for air horns, a locomotive bell, and possibly the lift cylinder for the bed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C2b6DoWXZ4M/Vi1x1Tk9WnI/AAAAAAAAAjs/oMOvxMIjzt4/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame11.JPG)
The little tab with the hole in it is for mounting mufflers/exhaust as the project nears completion. Planning ahead for much of this stuff so I don't have to hack up the paint job later on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rLFYRhUNqTk/Vi1qZB-yH2I/AAAAAAAAAeM/MmJD0jPZkpQ/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame17.JPG)
Back to this image again shows the engine mounts just laying on the crossmember over the front axle. I had hoped that I would have the engine mounts done for this update but it just hasn't happend. I am hopeful that I can get to that over Thanksgiving. The engine, and transmission will set entirely above the frame so that it will be positioned correctly in the engine bay. I am wanting the engine fan to be centered in the fan shroud just as if the truck was built using the factory frame.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--o76sjFuuZw/Vi1yagfRJpI/AAAAAAAAAkU/NNMt5cuWlvo/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame19.JPG)
I still need to add small touches like brake line brackets, and plumbing for the axle vent tubes, and so forth, and so on.....but....
That about does it for this update. I have more I can add, but no need to make this post into a Shakespeare novel.
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Shakespeare it is not, idiots guide to custom fabrication for the true truck guy is more like it.
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Looks Great Engineer. I love all the fab work and stick welding. Makes me want to do something.
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Well, I was able to find time to sit down and post another update on the ol' battleaxe. It seemed like the last post was approaching the length of a Shakepeare classic, hopefully this one wont eclipse the page count of War and Peace. I guess I should try to update this thread on a weekly basis so that when I do post it will be less to read every time. That whole pastor's sermon goes on and on until you lose your audience sort of thing......
So here it is.
I finally can call the frame complete (sort of):
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oR7DN244x3c/Vi1q20LtIwI/AAAAAAAAAhM/kTwbEt7dTDQ/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520037.JPG)
I was able to construct the engine mounts in a way I believe they will work the best.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aSboVVoKb_8/Vi1qzNREd-I/AAAAAAAAAg0/WHekugoWewo/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520034.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3WQ_4yyEQZI/Vi1q0dWwgAI/AAAAAAAAAg8/dkC5l9K91Iw/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520035.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5aiCX6IWjSs/Vi1q1seU5HI/AAAAAAAAAhE/mB_0GVF6-E8/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520036.JPG)
The engine will sit slightly low in the frame to start. I will most likely have to space the engine mount upward to get the engine in the factory position once the body is on. I did it this way because I feel it would be easier to space the mounts upward rather than to try to build new mounts that would drop the engine. These are the solid engine mounts that I had built for the sled puller configuration.
I also built the engine mounts to accomodate the return to factory rubber insulated frame mounts should I ever elect to do so.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HGgQJs9GqKc/Vi1qeUcc_OI/AAAAAAAAAes/T8ORYfKV80k/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520011.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6NTIe8IO7Ts/Vi1qftUs1CI/AAAAAAAAAe0/4EwVHcjofxg/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520012.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-snSd0Ynae54/Vi1qib5I_EI/AAAAAAAAAfE/6LQdRRp9Zww/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520019.JPG)
In these pictures are visible the framework I built to mount the clutch linkage:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QuQwRQ42r7g/Vi1qkzw5K4I/AAAAAAAAAfU/G1QywZIMLsc/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520021.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a8_7Ifuocns/Vi1qrVMogEI/AAAAAAAAAgE/XKHqdp8z_As/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520028.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1XT-N7WUaEY/Vi1qszPBjwI/AAAAAAAAAgM/QiL_I9dsQJc/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520029.JPG)
After I set the engine in the frame I measured, measured, and measured some more. I determined the engine needed to be moved forward one inch to avoid interfering with the cab's firewall. So, this is the modification to the transmission mount that was the result of moving the enigne:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0famudFXd5w/Vi1qm15gvmI/AAAAAAAAAfk/Dv_G2UwMsLA/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520024.JPG)
My transmission mount was built with the intention of being able to raise or lower the rear of the transmission, or changing it all together to facilitate the install of a TH-400, or 4L80E at some point should I ever (doubtfully) decide to go that route.
I stated that I like to mock everything up mutiple times before the final build. I believe it was our good friend "illinoisk30" who said "measure twice, cut once" my philosophy is "I've cut it three times, and it is still too short". (hahaha!)
Seriously, I made a likeness of a puller transfer case that replicates one that I intend to use in order to check my first driveshaft angle. Looking good. So good that I didn't bother to concern myself with calculating the angles, which in retrospect I should have done for future reference.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Hx8aazHEQrw/Vi1qW9oPAGI/AAAAAAAAAd8/qo9MGrTLSTw/s512-Ic42/2nd%252520frame15.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xyy5F0wX-vc/Vi1quLUqsNI/AAAAAAAAAgU/Usl-wusHkiM/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520030.JPG)
In the next photograph the wood block approximates where the top of the axle will be in relation to the springs.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6bUNKl54R8Y/Vi1qwlkRqoI/AAAAAAAAAgk/l_5ByB1Q6AM/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520032.JPG)
The awesome thing about the 2.5~5-ton Rockwell military axles is that their double reduction gearing moves the driveshaft connection point way up above the axleshaft centerline.
About 10":
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PzHgvlrU_k8/Vi1qaVODLoI/AAAAAAAAAeU/qwq34FdBaMw/s512-Ic42/boo%252520004.JPG)
I wanted to see how much I could get away with before I had any driveline binding issues. So, I dropped the driveshaft all the way down to see how much I could drop the transfer case before the angle became too severe.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qBGng-g4krs/Vi1qpJ6--BI/AAAAAAAAAf0/QIjkUg-TkIs/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520026.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-13tqpgk2m_s/Vi1qqPg4kHI/AAAAAAAAAf8/t2J_bCDwVE0/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520027.JPG)
I could probably drop the transfer case 4" and get away with it. However, I would want to avoid introducing any driveline harmonics unecessarily so I will look at keeping it in the 2"~3" drop range but only if it is required to lessen the angles on the driveshafts to the axles, and only if they are severe. The transfer case will be centered so as to use identical 1610 series 5-ton driveshafts front, and rear.
Here is the rub to dropping the transfer case- I would like to avoid dropping the transfer case if I do not have to. The transfer case input will be parallel with the horizontal axis of the frame. The engine and transmission are located with the GM designed 6° nose up from horizontal. To keep the driveshafts to the axles equal I cannot rotate the transfer case upward the way GM did with the rear axle to match the engine. In order to prevent introducing a vibration the effort is to keep the u-joints in similar phase. The high (or low) angles are not so much a problem as is keeping the u-joint angles similar so that one u-joint's phase change cancells out the opposite's phase change.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f0yf_q3_T-Q/Vi1qvO7RZNI/AAAAAAAAAgc/-DM9k_5NhA8/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520031.JPG)
In the process of doing this build I have added tabs and other bracketry for mounting brake lines, vent lines, fuel lines, and so forth. I'll still need to add brackets to hold a fuel cell over the rear axle. The hydraulic steering will need brackets for the steering valve, hoses, reservoir, and a steering fluid cooler.
Bracket for the brake line to brake hose bulkhead fitting:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GLxr0IAE0wc/Vi1q6mPEb9I/AAAAAAAAAhk/WLU9_GQgwNw/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520040.JPG)
I'm reusing much of the brake plumbing that I purchased for the puller build.
A little bracket for the axle vent tubes:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u6TKDVpKz0w/Vi1q4MLEfNI/AAAAAAAAAhU/8JtsPhVVmJE/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520038.JPG)
I bought these cool looking coiled hoses to vent the axles:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OEXTb_Luims/Vi1q5Qgg5VI/AAAAAAAAAhc/aZqND7OYSMk/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520039.JPG)
I'm going to have to make some minor tweaks to my leaf springs. When I had these built I sort of figured that would be the case. I am somewhat still in the school of hard knocks as far as leaf spring design goes. Spring rate, deflection, etc.
I built my frame around a 60" eye center span leaf spring based on sizes, specifications, and components of exisiting Chevy truck springs. Knowing that the length would grow as I added weight I had the spring built to a 58.75" span. After adding the weight of the engine, and transmission to the bare frame I had already exceeded my target of 60". I built the mount for the shackle to sit 90° to the spring eyes with the full weight of the truck on it sitting on level ground.
This being a "compression shackle" design (truck's weight pushing down on the shackle) when the spring cycles the shackle in its normal arc past my 90° target it will effectively lower the spring rate of the spring. This gives a better overall ride, but allows the input forces to the spring to deflect the spring easier. By starting the shackle with an angle of less than 90° you raise the effective spring rate of the spring prior to its passing the center (90°) point. This can result in a choppy, or harsh ride if the spring isn't built with a soft rate in the begining.
Thinking of it this way, if the shackle is leaning inward toward the spring as the spring is pushed upward by road shock, the shackle will be swinging downward in its natural arc as the force of the bump is trying lift the spring. After the shackle passes the mid point, its arc will then allow it to travel in the natural direction of the input force. (The above ONLY applies to a compression shackle. -Think front of our 4x4 trucks. It it the exact opposite theory applied when the leaf spring is mounted with a tension shackle design. -This is what is found on the rear of our trucks)
As I said, I had exceeded my target eye span with just the weight of the engine, and transmission. To similate the cab, front end, hood, steering valve, engine accessories, bumper, frame addition, etc. I added (and intentionally overloaded) the front of the frame (you know, that mock up of things before final assembly ;D). This is the springs with 600# of added weight:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1RRgNh4WSTg/Vi1nCbzpZMI/AAAAAAAAAdE/YCz4SWBtfdc/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520015.JPG)
In this picture, ideally, I want an imaginary line drawn through the centers of the shackle bolts to be straight up and down:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--A-BC7aQ5aM/Vi1nDgMQYSI/AAAAAAAAAdM/egrWUUCNV2s/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520016.JPG)
After finding out that I would need to tweak the springs I once again called the guys up at StLouis Spring. Man, these guys are aces to deal with. As anyone may have noticed all through this thread I have intentionally left out names of products I have used. The reason for this is because nobody is paying my to use their camshaft, or shock absorbers. However, I feel mentioning StLouis Spring is warranted because these guys have been so helpful with answering stupid questions over the phone, and only seem eager to help me with my latest needs.
In fixing my springs I need to shorten the main leaf slightly. I am looking at a 57" eye center. If this can be accomplised by bending more arch into the spring then that will be super. The critical factor is that about all StL Spring can phyisically bend into a leaf spring is roughly 14~15" of arch measured from an imaginary line drawn through the eyes to the top of the main leaf. So, if the spring can't be drawn up to 57" naturally then the main leaf will need to be shortened ever so slightly. The guys at StL Spring have already expressed a desire to make the re-arch solution work before shortening the main leaf, so I am optimistic that the main leaf can stay as is. Also, I'll be increasing the static spring rate by about 33%. I am going to have them add two more leaves to the pack. Again, this build is about height, not an active 4x4 off road suspension.
Recently my oldest son, and I had a conversation as to why I placed my shackle toward the front on the front spring as opposed to the tradtional rear of the front spring. If you look at my design it is a "poor man's 4-link":
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6oSr-aaCE9M/Vi1ufviqNpI/AAAAAAAAAhw/de5TzZOR7OI/s512-Ic42/IMG_2734.JPG)
As mentioned earlier, the springs will want to travel in a natural direction away from the end that is anchored to the frame in the direction of the shackle. By mounting the springs inboard, and having them travel outwards the axle will migrate in the direction that the swing of the torque rods (some people call these traction bars) take as they cycle. The location, and height of the center mount on my frame is no accident. It serves two purposes. 1) To mount the transfer case. 2) By placing the mounted end of the torque bars at the point they appear in my drawing, the horizontal forward movement of the axle end of the torque bar as it swings through its arc will be a similar movement to the horizontal forward movement of the center of the leaf spring. (which would theorhetically be 1/2 of the shackle's movement)
"Back in the day", and maybe still today, even with the interwebs, some guys would mount their spring shackle on the rear of the front spring, and then would have to build into the traction bar a hydraulic cylinder with a dampening type of plumbing between the two chambers of the cylinder to allow for the rearward travel of the front axle as it cycled. This, to me, seems counter logical at the very best. Other than the slight dampening effect of the hydraulic cylinder, minus any air in the system, it is useless. With a setup like that your leaf springs are doing more than just holding up your truck. They have to counteract the power, and braking torque, and that was only made worse by the fact that almost every truck used/uses blocks between the spring, and axle for height. The block translated into leverage against the spring.......and the more a spring is worked the sooner it reaches its failure threshold. And yes, almost every major monster truck did this, and got away with it......even the potentate Bigfoot.
(Caveat emptor- or why you want your springs like our square bodies have them from the factory) One MAJOR advantage to having the shackle on the rear of the front spring is that you don't have the natural tendancy of the spring to wander. The extra pivot point lets the springs yaw laterally, something you dont get with the front of the front spring being anchored on the front of the truck. Ford solved this with their 99~04 Super Duty by adding a track bar to their leaf spring fronts........Just food for thought, and not really applicable to an 80's monster truck but just thought I would throw it in here.
A short time ago my son texted me with some excellent news. Earlier in this thread I mentioned working out a deal for a triple/double roll bar (pictured in the yellow truck). I had given up the idea of getting it because the deal became too much work. Well I think the good Lord loves classic Chevy monster trucks. With out fail every thing that I have wanted for this build, tires, axles, bed, tailgate, and other body parts, have eventually found me. The roll bar swiched hands a couple of times and finally found its way to my oldest son. Now it is here:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KQyJ9A1R0RY/Vi1ux-9wIiI/AAAAAAAAAh4/6wcizBYgmQw/s512-Ic42/things%252520011.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ibFddPWYpIk/Vi1qbpICm_I/AAAAAAAAAec/l6usMbqBryo/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520003.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cFRbPZXgKks/Vi1qdDV5SpI/AAAAAAAAAek/fvzj7c5NrCg/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520004.JPG)
You can't tell by the pictures, but one of its previous owners welded all of the bars, and tubes together. and they used a wire feed welder set on "no penetrate, extra cold". So the welds all stick up like dirt dauber nests.....ugh. Not to worry, I'll give it a good fixin' before it gets put into my '77. ;)
And I just realized I never posted a pic of all of my tires:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7rHtA3zjub8/Vi1u01hkTLI/AAAAAAAAAiA/sBBaoqv-ZhI/s512-Ic42/002%252520%2525288%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gMSffKe41ZU/Vi1u1_IlBEI/AAAAAAAAAiI/f-b6PbYY6cs/s512-Ic42/003%252520%2525288%252529.JPG)
As mentioned, I now have all 4 tires. I still only have 3 wheels, but I have a 4th wheel located for $150.00. Hope to go get that sometime after Christmas.
Well, maybe this post is long enough to score me a Nobel prize in literature...... Leo Tolstoy would be proud.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oR7DN244x3c/Vi1q20LtIwI/AAAAAAAAAhM/kTwbEt7dTDQ/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520037.JPG)
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I can't wait to see the finished product!
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Very nice Engineer, excellent craftsmanship. I can hardly wait to see the sheet metal put on.
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I just realized I have a couple more pictures that my wife took of Little Bearfoot that didn't make it into the first post on the subject.
Here is a decent shot of it sitting on its hauler. Not many pictures of the monsters ever made it into circulation "behind the scenes". Here is one such example. Obviously the 66" GoodYears would have been taken off prior to any over the road moves.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6wUD-sVpmWw/Vi1-W4qY0QI/AAAAAAAAAog/dlRI6lQ7zM4/s512-Ic42/Little%252520Bearfoot%252520%2525282%252529.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eyy1-7FRRr4/Vi1-mkjAL3I/AAAAAAAAApY/FYd-9plaoVY/s512-Ic42/Little%252520Bearfoot%252520hauler.jpg)
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As alluded to in a prior post I took my springs in for a rework.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UCPsHRW1tmA/Vi1nGe7qt5I/AAAAAAAAAdc/7f6K2Tvtjoo/s512-Ic42/Date%252520008.JPG)
I had the springs built before I built the frame. I felt it best to do it this way and then build around the springs. I don't know if this was the cheapest, (no) or the best (hmmm)..... But anyhow, I feel like I ended up right where I want to be, and that is the important part.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wtWXFZ7z-jc/Vi1nHuCiwgI/AAAAAAAAAdk/_6waU4TtmyU/s512-Ic42/Date%252520009.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-krk0MTYpZbI/Vi1nFNCxQaI/AAAAAAAAAdU/TreaCqMkHUU/s512-Ic42/Date%252520004.JPG)
Originally I had the springs built with a 58.75" eye center. I proposed that by building them short I would hit my target of 60" with a load on them. I missed by about 3 1/2". During the rework I had the eye center set at 57". The other 1/2" I intend to make up by adding 2 leaves, or about 33% more spring rate.
By building 8 leaf packs I can remove the shortest leaf very easily if this new setup proves to have too much spring rate. I'll know more after the truck is finished with the full weight on it. Again, my target is to have the shackle at 90° to the spring eyes.
As can be seen in this photo the shackle is about 38° negative to the eyes with only the empty frame weight on it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pI8WxhAPQj4/Vi1kVKdNa4I/AAAAAAAAAb0/12FlSIqXDjk/s512-Ic42/Date%252520012.JPG)
I intended to set my engine and suitcase weights on the frame to get an idea of where I am physically with the springs, but I pulled a muscle in my stomach moving the springs around. So, I'll give the 'ol gut a few days to heal. Still plenty of things to do in the mean time.
By weighing it down I'll be able to get a better idea if I'll hit my target of 60". If I am short, and I am hoping I am, I'll leave it as is because I'll need to plan for settling of the springs as they take a set after being cycled a few times. I could even live with a final measurement of 60 1/2", but not this:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--A-BC7aQ5aM/Vi1nDgMQYSI/AAAAAAAAAdM/egrWUUCNV2s/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520016.JPG)
The guys at StLouis Spring were really good to me on this rework. Initially they built my springs with an arch of 15" as measured from the eye centers to the top of the main leaf. Their normal limit is 14". On this rework it was going to be less hassle to draw the main leaf to get it to the 57" eye center than it was to shorten it and roll the eyes a second time. This gave me a 16" free arch which is great for me, but a problem for them as their heat treat oven wont let them place springs in it that are that tall without a lot of hassle.
I am still going to have to use blocks on top of the axles to get the necessary height to clear the GoodYear Terras but by squeezing in the extra inch into the springs, and the added spring rate I can keep the Legos to a minimum. As a saftey factor I intend to build a 6" tall block onto the top of the axle for the spring to seat on, and locate the torque rod mounts at the bottom of the axle. The 6" lift block will be welded onto the axle housing so as to prevent it from ever rolling out from under the spring and causing a loss of control. My plans are to build the top of the block out of 1" thick material and build it wide enough that I can drill and tap holes to accept bolts, and a plate to clamp the spring and not use u-bolts that wrap under the axle. I have never been a fan of u-bolts even though they are the industry standard. They are more prone to stretch the longer they are, and that can cause them to loosen enough if not retorqued to cause the suspension to fail.
Hopefully, since the springs, and frame are complete I can now focus on the axles. They wont need much. Just stripped, add the spring seats and torque rod mounts, and painted. I have new knuckle boots for the front, but will probably just reuse the seals for now.
A couple of parting views:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tWCQFJ-dri0/Vi1kWuakVPI/AAAAAAAAAb8/lRcblkOaX2U/s512-Ic42/truggy%252520006.JPG)
Now, much taller: :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U6Kzpj_1DzU/Vi1kTm86OFI/AAAAAAAAAbs/j7wp9KTEsag/s512-Ic42/Date%252520010.JPG)
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coming along nicely! i love that roll bar 8)
"no penetrate, extra cold" made me laugh
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Not a whole lot to update about today. I was able to load the frame to see how the reworked springs would react. I had hoped to get the rest of my small parts fabricated but that didn't happen.
As stated earlier I look to build a 6" lift block that will act as a spring perch on the axle. I intended to not weld to these very low mileage axle housings but I digressed. Odds are that no one will ever reuse these axles in an M54 or similar truck, and if they do, cutting off anything I weld on can be accomplished without much trouble. So welding the lift block/spring perch, and the torque bar mounts to the axle housing will commence as soon as I have those parts fabricated. The hold up on that was the reason for this latest update. I wanted to get the weight on my springs to see how much block I would need to keep the lower body line of my truck a minimum of 6" above the top of the tires.
Looking at this truck's photo gives the reader an idea of where I plan to build the ride height to. As stated earlier I'm not in anyway considering cutting the fenders for tire clearance:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fxYJbXWUTPw/Vi1kp4Sp3ZI/AAAAAAAAAcM/7QFUqLxs6Go/s512-Ic42/Silver%252520Bullet2.jpg)
The above photo is one I took sometime around 1986, or 1987. My perspective is slightly uphill otherwise this picture would show that this truck has a similar ride height to my plans. Like the Bearfoot truck(s), I loved that truck too. It just needs a few 6" off road lights on the roll bar to be complete. 8) That truck had a Lycoming helicopter engine in it. Other than the light (fire) show I never could figure out the logic behind not using a 454 or similar iron. Still a cool rig just the same.
Back to my monster, I plan to build the axle block/spring seat so as the leaf spring will be clamped directly to it by using 3/4" bolts bolted through a plate on top of the spring, and into the top of the block/spring perch. I'm looking at eliminating the typical U-bolts for two reasons. 1) U-bolts tend to loosen and stretch more than a typical grade 8 bolt. 2) It will give a cleaner look.
Also waiting is a need to weld the mounts for my steering cylinders. I can't start that phase until I order my steering cylinders. I recently had a failure of my brand new looking, albeit 20 year old air compressor. So, not having an air compressor has severely cramped the progress of this build. A plain vanilla 60 gallon, 3.5hp air compressor is in the $500.00 range. So that will set this build back somewhat. Can't run a sandblaster, or HVLP paint gun without air. ;D
In any event. I placed my mock-up engine, and the SM465 transmission I plan to use back in the frame. Then I went about simulating the clutch, crankshaft, other missing engine parts, transfer case, and the weight of the body, bumper, radiator, and other incidentals by adding 12 IH 5288 suitcase weights to the front of the frame. (about 1150# total for the suit case weights)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tWCQFJ-dri0/Vi1kWuakVPI/AAAAAAAAAb8/lRcblkOaX2U/s512-Ic42/truggy%252520006.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kOjsl-7Qdd0/Vi1kXp8WGOI/AAAAAAAAAcE/3MgXwGV-YQI/s512-Ic42/truggy%252520007.JPG)
In the second picture one can see I am really close to my target of 90° with the spring shackle. The actual eye center is 59.5". My design is for a 60" eye center. After allowing for some settling I should have just what the doctor ordered.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U6Kzpj_1DzU/Vi1kTm86OFI/AAAAAAAAAbs/j7wp9KTEsag/s512-Ic42/Date%252520010.JPG)
I am very pleased with how the reworked springs turned out.
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Well here is what I was able to accomplish this weekend. In the following picture is the parts I'll use to make the axle spring seats/lift blocks.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xv1OlB3jdI8/VcKkzaBXI_I/AAAAAAAAAUU/gfI3e9cXX2o/s512-Ic42/birds%252520003.JPG)
The part to the upper left is the plate that the bolts will clamp on top of the springs. One side is longer than the other so as to affix the lower shock mount to. The parts to its right will be the top of the block itself. The small 1/4" holes will be drilled and tapped for the bolts to clamp the spring to. The square tubing will be what the top plate is welded to in order to gain the 6" lift.
The 1/4"x5"x6" plates will then box in the whole setup and securely weld it to the axle housing. Again, I am eliminating u-bolts from this build.
The triangle plates are the torque bar mounts. They will be welded down low on the axle housing to help control movement of the axle. I have 4 sets of these for each spring location on the axles.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-diwfyBdCZ3U/VcKk1Azet-I/AAAAAAAAAUc/iL3PG-sXums/s512-Ic42/birds%252520004.JPG)
In this picture are the components for the torque rods. The ball socket will be on the frame end. The rubber bushing will be pressed into tubing that is cut and welded to the axle end of the torque rods. It will then be bolted in between the triangle shaped brackets in the top photo. Connecting the two pivots, and making up the body of the torque rods, will be lengths of 11ga. 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" square tubing.
I still need to drill and tap the plate that welds to the axle. If I can get that done pretty quickly then I will be able to weld them first to the rear axle. When I get that done I'll post pics and this part of it will make more sense. If you guys are having a hard time envisioning how I am going about this phase don't worry, I'm not the best as describing my thoughts.
The front axle will be after the rear axle. The rear is ready to use as-is. I need to disassemble the front axle to rotate the differential, and install the knuckle boots. Also in waiting is for me to order the hydraulic steering cylinders. I need those so I can build the mounts that will anchor the cylinders in the center of the axle housing. I want to be able to do that all at one time. And of course I'll have to paint the front axle prior to reassembly to avoid painting the knuckle boots.
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Sounds good Engineer. Looking forward to seeing those axles installed.
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Here Is the latest update.
Weather was awesome today. Got some quality time on the '77 after church.
In the photo above (in my last post) with all of the plates in it I was able to get the work done on the plate with the smaller holes. I took them to a freind's shop to use his drill press. I don't trust mine to make the quality of hole needed for that part of the fab. I used his drill press to drill the pilot holes to 11/16". After getting them back to my shop I proceeded to tap the holes to 3/4-16. Ugh. My tap is really dull. Time for a new one.
After this was completed I then welded the 2.5" square tube to the bottom of the plates as seen in this view:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ocdebym3TFo/VcKk2epTACI/AAAAAAAAAUk/Jz7hJ-30ARQ/s512-Ic42/Date%252520005.JPG)
Next step was to weld them to the axle. For those who were unsure of how I was going to do this part I took the time to photograph each stage of the build. I'm sure I more than freaked out a few people by saying I was going to use blocks for lift because in the 4x4 world front blocks are a definate no-no, and rear blocks are to be avoided if possible, but I think everyone can agree that this set up is good to go. (the 2x4 that is bolted to the top of the differential is to keep the axle upright. Those 5-tons are VERY top heavy, and if it turns turtle on you it is a real pain to flip it back upright)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tjajONYfuqU/VcKk5EowwZI/AAAAAAAAAU0/D3U25uy5-kk/s512-Ic42/Date%252520011%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
Solidly welding it to the axle housing:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-02dDvHRP1Rk/VcKk6iYyIKI/AAAAAAAAAU8/wzE6QAPgwOU/s512-Ic42/Date%252520012%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
And now the important part, boxing it all in:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-haeNcUP_BDI/VcKk8O5hrbI/AAAAAAAAAVE/JL5m2avpa2o/s512-Ic42/Date%252520014.JPG)
Still need to finish by boxing the sides in.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GIsYBpdjjWs/VcKk9b9uUkI/AAAAAAAAAVM/czzT636crAE/s512-Ic42/Date%252520015.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OHvTArDgXAo/VcKk_PXAU0I/AAAAAAAAAVU/WcGiFUs4lAU/s512-Ic42/Date%252520016.JPG)
Adding the torque rod mounts:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cWS6kCsLNGI/VcKlAt3TcBI/AAAAAAAAAVc/uvoyS8lNLKg/s512-Ic42/Date%252520017.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3mTESsl3roY/VcKlCagCbgI/AAAAAAAAAVk/WkztRCufJzc/s512-Ic42/Date%252520018.JPG)
This view is of the Reyco Suspension (OTR truck torque rod part) bushing that will be pressed into the lower end of the torque rod.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wAeqeEj_EBk/VcKlDv6QqMI/AAAAAAAAAVs/8cBzJja37gA/s512-Ic42/Date%252520019.JPG)
This view shows the 3/4" bolts that will clamp the leaf springs to the axle using the 1" thick plate seen in my last previous post:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rw2sSk-FbCs/VcKlFYxxkSI/AAAAAAAAAV0/LeEjVQPj4-Q/s512-Ic42/Date%252520021.JPG)
I am convinced this is a much better set up than using u-bolts to clamp the axle and spring.
The 4x4 mega truck crowd makes it an emphasis toward keeping things up high for ground clearance. I don't plan on mohawking my pumpkins, or anything radical as that, (really not necessary in my case) but I did keep things neatly tucked away just to keep the build clean:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WUYxiIroKxU/VcKlG2SCTZI/AAAAAAAAAV8/P_9_rpOUqAY/s512-Ic42/Date%252520022.JPG)
After I box in the sides I want to set the frame on it so I can get an idea of the height.....that, and to drive myself batty because I am not finishing this thing fast enough....... The more I get done the more I want to see it complete.
And as always feel free to opine, comment, or ask questions.......
That is all I have for now. I'll post up more when I get the axle under the frame.
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Great progress!
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Just a awesome build! What are your plans for the motor? Power output estimate? Hp tq
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Well I was able to box in the blocks on the rear axle.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SkwZ0nr6QDk/VcKjf_pHxxI/AAAAAAAAAT4/FdaBpybb5UA/s512-Ic42/old%252520time%252520002.JPG)
The spring will set on top with the head of the tie bolt in the hole drilled in the center of the block.
Just need to dress it all up with my grinder. It was cold outside today and I didn't want to work on it out in the wind. Plus, since my shop is full of trucks I don't want to throw grinder dust all over them and risk having the steel filings rusting, and ruining the paint.
Just a awesome build! What are your plans for the motor? Power output estimate? Hp tq
I'll be using the same 454 that I ran in the truck as a sled puller as seen in the earlier pages of this thread. It is around 500HP+ by my estimation. 547HP/544TQ via the GMPP dyno simulation computer software.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DUdO-5FizyY/VcKj29LGS4I/AAAAAAAAAUI/RfE7FWIxekw/s512-Ic42/FrameComplete%252520041.JPG)
After the truck is all done I may look into building a different engine starting with the 427 4-bolt block that I posted pictures about also earlier in this thread.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CBZk-oasJE0/VcKj1smbsaI/AAAAAAAAAUA/07axmYVKAFo/s512-Ic42/427TD.JPG)
My oldest son is really pounding me to give him the 454, but good strong running Big Blocks are starting to get more expensive to build, and the junk dealers are starting to think these 2 piece rear main engines are worth their weight in gold. Mine is a '73 model so it will be one of the better blocks for any hot street build. In any event I doubt I'll ever see the day I'll sell that 454.
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That's impressive power figures... I bet your son is trying to get that motor haha. I would too though if I were him. What has been done to the motor ? Machine work, parts, etc
Where do you plan on using the truck mostly?
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That's impressive power figures... I bet your son is trying to get that motor haha. I would too though if I were him. What has been done to the motor ? Machine work, parts, etc
Where do you plan on using the truck mostly?
The engine has quite a few little tricks in it.
The engine is a '73 C20 truck 454. It came with 353049 heads. The intake is a Holley Strip Dominator, currently with a Holley 750 carb. The cam is a solid lifter Crane cam. It is a conservative street grind. Also has Crane roller rockers.
Pistons are hyperutectic 9.5:1 compression. Stock GM rods with ARP rod bolts.
L88 Corvette oil pump, sump, and pan with windage tray.
The big thing is the heads. I cut the seats for 2.19/1.88 valves and ported the pockets to smooth the airflow over the valve. Combustion chambers were polished to get rid of any sharp edges and the grainy finish from the casting. Lastly the ports were gasket matched to the intake.
Turn it 7,000RPM without any fear.
The truck will probably only be used for car shows, parades, birthday parties, and the like. No mud, jumping, car crushing, or racing. If I get the itch to do that I'll build a different truck.
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I love this build. Definitely a fun one to watch. Thanks for sharing it with us Engineer.
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That's impressive power figures... I bet your son is trying to get that motor haha. I would too though if I were him. What has been done to the motor ? Machine work, parts, etc
Where do you plan on using the truck mostly?
The engine has quite a few little tricks in it.
The engine is a '73 C20 truck 454. It came with 353049 heads. The intake is a Holley Strip Dominator, currently with a Holley 750 carb. The cam is a solid lifter Crane cam. It is a conservative street grind. Also has Crane roller rockers.
Pistons are hyperutectic 9.5:1 compression. Stock GM rods with ARP rod bolts.
L88 Corvette oil pump, sump, and pan with windage tray.
The big thing is the heads. I cut the seats for 2.19/1.88 valves and ported the pockets to smooth the airflow over the valve. Combustion chambers were polished to get rid of any sharp edges and the grainy finish from the casting. Lastly the ports were gasket matched to the intake.
Turn it 7,000RPM without any fear.
The truck will probably only be used for car shows, parades, birthday parties, and the like. No mud, jumping, car crushing, or racing. If I get the itch to do that I'll build a different truck.
Sounds like you went to town on that motor too... I bet it will run like a champ and have a mean grunt to it :-) whew I don't know if I will do that on my motor even though it's built too... 7000rpm is high up there... So the truck will strictly be used for those events? You aren't tempted to bury it in mud ? :-) those tires you have are gigantic to say the least.... What did you have to do to fab up the corvette pump and sump? Your 454 is the same year as mine lol :-) crazy awesome build engineer... Hats are off
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No mud. No way.
The truck earned its mud stripes 25 years ago. I started truck pulling to get away from the headache of washing after a night of mudding.
Several of the parts in my engine came out of the GMPP catalog.
The Corvette 454 oil pan with trap door baffle, and windage tray is available from GM under part number 14091356. About $125.00 +or-.
The Corvette 454 oil pump with sump is available from GM under part number 3969870. Around $100.00.
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How are you going to transport this rig to events?
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Transporting it won't be easy.
Because of its size I'll have to remove the tires. If you scroll back through this thread you'll see my gooseneck trailer. It is a tandem axle 20x8 square back. The trailer will haul the truck with ease but I don't have sufficient room to take along the tires.
The tires are 5-1/2 feet tall, and a little more than 3-1/2 feet wide. Pairing them up side x side will require an additional 10' of trailer floor to haul it all.
Then there is the weight. I estimate that the truck will weigh in around 12,000# but no more. Not using planetaries, and subbing the puller truck transfer case over using the 5-ton military unit should keep me on the lighter side of what the old schoolers weighed. My trailer is about 4,200# right now. Lengthening 10' will probably push it up to 6,000#. Right now I have 2 6,000# Dexter axles. An additional 6,000# axle would be required minimum to carry all of the weight.
I recently looked at a gooseneck trailer that met these specs and was a low boy to boot. However the owner was asking $10,000.00 for it which is a little out of my budget. Ideally this is the best option if it weren't so costly.
One other option is leaving my gooseneck trailer as is and buying a small bumper hitch type trailer to tow behind the gooseneck to carry the tires. Many states don't allow this double tow configuration so that would be a temporary fix at best. I'm hoping to go to the Jamboree in Indy and that means driving through IL where double towing is a no-no.
I also have to consider that these tires are about 1,000# a piece so loading them onto a trailer that is waist high like the one I currently have will be a hefty burden without some type of crane.
I still have plenty of time to think about the final product. If I were still driving a OTR truck I could look for and old moving van trailer and have weather protection to boot.
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Used OTR tractors are really cheap right now
Used OTR trailers have always been cheap
You're definitely gonna need a autocrane or liftmoore for the tires
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I would love to go the OTR truck route. A semi tractor with a drop frame trailer like an exhibits, or auto parts trailer would be great.
The biggest problem with doing that is having a tractor/trailer combo that is not earning revenue. Then you have the commercial/non-commercial thing.
A commercial truck needs apportioned license plates if crossing state lines, IFTA fuel tax, if registered for 55,000# or more there is the IRS HVUT, and then the appropriate class CDL, log books, drug tests, DOT physicals, commercial insurance all around, federal and state operating authority, USDOT#, KYU# if driving through Kentucky, etc. If carrying more than, say, 150 gallons racing fuel for instance, then you would need haz-mat authority, haz-mat endorsement, haz-mat insurance.
Going the non commercial route is only slightly less of a pain. You won't need any of the above but because or your weight, and/or axle count you will still have to stop at most state weigh stations and then I guarantee 90% of the time you'll be detained to explain what you are doing, where you are going, how you can afford to have such a large truck that is not earning revenue, and why you don't think you need to comply with any of the commercial vehicle regulations.
When I was truck pulling I was told by a state DOT officer that I would be in violation of about 10 laws just by transporting my puller to a county fair pull..........with a K1500 pickup and gooseneck trailer.
I then asked a USDOT officer the same question about my requirements, his response was if I were being paid then I was commercial. If I wasn't expecting to be paid just for showing up then I was exempt from the commercial standards. I then brought up the subject of prize money, and his statement revolved around the idea that prize money is not considered earnings for the sake of the commercial criteria but is considered earnings by the IRS.?.?
However, commercial or not, the HVUT would still apply if registered for 55,000#+.
If you are not-for-hire and get stopped, then you would be wise to be able to prove that everything on/in your truck is your property and no one else's. If not yours, then is the owner paying you to haul it for him?
IMHO, the biggest thing about using an old OTR truck for personal use would be trying to convince the CMV enforcement officers that your Freightliner road tractor and 53' Wabash drop frame dry van is your version of an S-10 and golf cart trailer.
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You register your OTR tractor as a motorhome
You still need a CDL with air brake endorsement but no log books at anything
Lots of full time RVers use OTR tractors instead of F-350s
Cheaper and safer
Check with your state to see what you have to do to register OTR as a motorhome usually a micro wave and portapotty is all you need
If its considered a motorhome and you can prove you own what's on the trailer you're obviously not for hire
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Looked into the RV registration. The state's website has nothing on it, and the people at the DMV are not anymore help than the website.
RV registration would be nice because that would reduce the number of states that you have to stop at the scales.
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Then Check on some of the RV forums
There will be someone who has done it before
Start here
http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showforum=97
And here
http://www.hhrvresource.com/node/45#Florida
Pick your state and see what is required
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Well, here is my latest update:
Finally was able to set the frame up on the rear axle. This is not permanent. Just a mock up.
In this view the frame top is about 5 feet off of the ground. The military tires are roughly 42" tall. My Terras are 66" tall.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K3PcaGrROoU/VcKh01Tn5LI/AAAAAAAAASU/q5aACahMVXA/s512-Ic42/frame%252520stuff%252520031.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I_2tHSs5WK0/VcKh2DrAEAI/AAAAAAAAASc/8hGCC3FtpvA/s512-Ic42/frame%252520stuff%252520032.JPG)
The pink string represents the torque rods:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aHw5x1L6XD0/VcKh3ZNKmPI/AAAAAAAAASk/1q1j-O8PocY/s512-Ic42/frame%252520stuff%252520033.JPG)
For anyone still wondering this is how the springs clamp to the axle/lift block:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YeN8fH6H1II/VcKh4vjLBLI/AAAAAAAAASs/fUwFCPo_gLU/s512-Ic42/frame%252520stuff%252520034.JPG)
Setting up the lower shock mount:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ye9BTFerof8/VcKh6xziuAI/AAAAAAAAAS8/DhAkiK8vFTM/s512-Ic42/frame%252520stuff%252520036.JPG)
Componentry for the lower shock mount. There are 4 sets of these:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FX_WHv_Hvb8/VcKh8nhdeMI/AAAAAAAAATE/JtSFx2eOQ2M/s512-Ic42/frame%252520stuff%252520037.JPG)
Lower shock mount completed:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-olS_3bRcsLA/VcKh-LZImyI/AAAAAAAAATM/OLZmISCtfc4/s512-Ic42/frame%252520stuff%252520038.JPG)
Installed:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KQopgni4kL8/VcKh_Y94nUI/AAAAAAAAATU/wDf31f15vqg/s512-Ic42/frame%252520stuff%252520039.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Wgc9bDluOuA/VcKiA4dvGvI/AAAAAAAAATc/FT5FQ24Cam8/s512-Ic42/frame%252520stuff%252520040.JPG)
And a couple of angles with shocks:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jX_05FkOMes/VcKiCSyKecI/AAAAAAAAATk/rkXh4CZzUYc/s512-Ic42/frame%252520stuff%252520043.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IiAJKR9obZI/VcKiDxdL7CI/AAAAAAAAATs/jFkn_mHib6M/s512-Ic42/frame%252520stuff%252520044.JPG)
Been really busy haven't been able to get much done. Right after my last update the weather went to worse. Couldn't do anything outside. Then, I was gone for a week to chase my youngest son around central Florida and watch him play baseball.
I try to get a few hours on this project here, and there. My oldest son just brought me a cut off saw so I can get to the end of the metal fab phase.
The rear axle is totally done except for the paint. Getting ready for the front.
The front will have to be torn down completely. I'll have spin the differential so the driveshaft flange will set center in the housing. Also, the knuckles have to come off to replace the knuckle boots. With the front disassembled it will make aligning the leaf spring mounts/lift blocks easier. I want those square, level, and true so the axle isn't askew when it is in the truck.
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i like the shock mounts they came out pretty nice!
keep it up
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Very nice work as usual. Those lower shock mounts are out of control! Very cool!
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I finally have my steering cylinders. (YAY!) :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0Yi3DRm06wA/VcKhCFULaNI/AAAAAAAAASE/UCgYcATB7tQ/s512-Ic42/steering%252520003.JPG)
These are the two cylinders I will be using to steer my truck. Now that I have these I will start with the teardown, and build of the front axle. Notice the "Made in USA" label. ;D 8)
The reason I am using two cylinders is so I can have balanced steering. Meaning the hydraulic fluid volume will be identical when steering both left, and right. This will mean cross connecting the chambers of opposite cylinders so that when one is contracting under pressure the other is extending under pressure.
This image should give an idea of how using a single cylinder would have the effect of more assist in one direction, and less in the other:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N_1br8gufqQ/VcKhCRJShnI/AAAAAAAAASI/4DSMk0zrg4c/s350-Ic42/734j.jpg)
The problem with using one double acting single rod cylinder is the displacement of the rod, and surface area the rod takes from the piston disrupts the balance of the system.
By having two cylinders of the same diameter, and stroke you can plumb together the opposite chambers of either cylinder and have an equal volume, and equal force in both directions.
Looking back at these photos from an earlier post in this thread, one will see that I am going to have steering arms on the backs of both knuckles opposite the tie rod.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jsi8W18JgkE/VcKg_NhW_ZI/AAAAAAAAARw/9ccSzgS1g_M/s512-Ic42/016%252520%2525285%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t_rW0NZBavo/VcKhAovAqvI/AAAAAAAAAR4/j-pBytgWg-s/s512-Ic42/018%252520%2525286%252529.JPG)
By using both cylinders in a push/pull manner the load will be shared by both steering arms, and knuckles simultaneously so as to not put all of the load on one arm and one knuckle at any one time. By doing this I hope to reduce wear on the steering pivots, and kingpins, thus achieving a more durable, and long term reliable system.
And as always, check back often. Since I don't have to heat my shop I am not obligated to a full day of work. With the warmer temperatures I can sneak out to my shop for an hour or two here, and there. My son's baseball has priority in my life right now so I'll try to update when I can make some progress.......which hopefully will be more regular now that warm weather is here.
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That's a sweet idea.
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Looks great Engineer, love all the fab work. Do me a favor and put a cover on that poor pulling truck body. I'm sure your not throwing grinding dust all over it but it drives me nuts having that thing all naked with all the work you have into it. :)
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ik3-
No worries. I do all my grinding and sand blasting outside in the driveway with the shop door closed. The black 2002 Silverado that sits in the other side of my shop is in the same shape. Just ordinary dust. The '02 is sort of special to me. It has an 8.1/6sp manual with less than 10,000mi original miles on it. It has never been in the rain or on a gravel road. I wouldn't allow either truck to be harmed in any way. :)
I just bought a new tank for my air compressor yesterday so I can carry on. Getting the nerve up to do all of the sandblasting that will have to be done as soon as the front axle is finished.
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Phew, sounds good Engineer. Very nice units you have. Carry on.
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I mentioned in an earlier post that I had a fourth wheel located and that I intended to go get it around Christmas. Hehe. Well the opportunity presented itself, and I finally went and picked it up. I really wasn't in any hurry as I didn't expect it to go anywhere.
I now have all four wheels and tires. :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SupBuiNSwQE/VcACDLc7-1I/AAAAAAAAALY/AEw5yrQbyyY/s512-Ic42/big%252520tire%252520002.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SwNeKWtv3SI/VcACEp00aHI/AAAAAAAAALg/Qwy0WV3iW2I/s512-Ic42/big%252520tire%252520003.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-unJUe6eZZ7U/VcACFyVxfLI/AAAAAAAAALo/PJAkxU5VTgI/s512-Ic42/big%252520tire%252520004.JPG)
That 10-ply Firestone is my 8th 66" tire. Lol. I would have never dreamed the tires would be so plentiful when I started this build. I gave away the Primex, and traded the 2 Terra XTs. So I either need to sell the Firestone, or find three more for a second truck build. Hmmm...........
Anyway, all four of the wheels will need to have their centers cut out so a new wheel flange can be welded in. There is a guy that is somewhat local to me who has been tempting me with powder coating some of this stuff. Not going to use him for the frame or axles. But, the powder coat is really tempting for the wheels and possibly the roll bar.
I'm thinking powder coating will be a better option for the wheels. Should be more durable than paint, and the powder coat will give a better/smoother sealing surface for the tiny rubber o-ring that seals the outer wheel flange to the inner wheel. The guy with the powder coating business sent me some sample pics of "chrome" powder coat with a clear over coat and the end result looked convincingly like polished aluminum. And the cool thing is that the base metal doesn't have to be perfectly smooth. The powder coat will hide slight imperfections.
Not much else to update on. Haven't been able to get time to start on the front axle as of yet. I did get a new tank for my air compressor so I'll be changing that before there is any more work on the '77.
And the transmission in my son's Blazer took a dump just after it turned 300,000mi. It is the original transmission. I guess it was due, but a rebuilt transmission is money I could have used to buy my transfer case and I don't really have time to rebuild it myself or I would.
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OK, so I lied. Or maybe just a fib. Or maybe I just change my mind a lot. Anyhoo I didn't get my air compressor put together before starting the tear down of the front axle.
I still need to pull the differential. I'm going to leave the knuckles, and tie rod on until I have the steering cylinders mounted.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tcbO1YRUtcU/VcABBcqQoiI/AAAAAAAAAKo/BQKKxXJXuo0/s512-Ic42/IMG_3504.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HIGcTEi68U0/VcABCmNLPXI/AAAAAAAAAKw/2oSwr58pHM0/s512-Ic42/IMG_3505.jpg)
That's a hum-dinger of an axle. Not to mention the hub, spindle, wheel bearings are massive.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HvlT81EQMZQ/VcABDsrXFgI/AAAAAAAAAK8/j6hYkDEInEg/s512-Ic42/IMG_3506.jpg)
For comparison, the puny little stub axle next to the 5-ton is from a bona-fide GM 30 spline Dana60 front axle.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YGQ-l9ZhMBU/VcABGeo-HdI/AAAAAAAAALM/CaWFt5p-n50/s512-Ic42/IMG_3512.jpg)
You Dana60 guys have such cute little stubs.......
I wish I still had a 1/2~3/4 ton front axle shaft lying around. Haven't had a need for one of those around here in many, many years. The difference with the 5-tonner would really be lol.
I pulled the hubs off of the rear axle while I was at it. I'm going to repack the wheel bearings, and put all right handed lug studs in it while it is apart. I need to clean up the rivets on the axle housing spindle left over from the brake backing plates as well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2uM2urdlTW8/VcABE0NZVZI/AAAAAAAAALE/RdrWpPnLGME/s512-Ic42/IMG_3507.jpg)
I am going to try to cram the front axle done in the next week or two. After that it will all be ready to sandblast.
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That is actually pretty funny. We think the big Dana 60 and 14 bolt stuff is pretty stout, which it is....until you compare it to something much heftier, like a 5 ton military truck lol.
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Just dropping in for a real quick update.
I have my air compressor back up and on line. While I was at it I took the time to run new piping throughout my shop. Did several improvements that I seen that I would like after the first time I set up my air lines. Now I am ready to get back after my monster project.
Rain pushed me inside so among other things I did a little punkin chunkin:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fE62HX1_YtQ/VcAAfzC93PI/AAAAAAAAAKg/EOfY4hShnPs/s512-Ic42/corn%252520crib%252520022.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SJp0hn53mg4/VcAAe2r1CdI/AAAAAAAAAKY/Vt0rDAIalJg/s512-Ic42/corn%252520crib%252520021.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WqRhomNEkOE/VcAAdV6GSjI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/0B0Gliw1WdE/s512-Ic42/corn%252520crib%252520020.JPG)
Next step will be to weld on the axle block/spring seats/torque rod mounts. Then I'll weld on the steering cylinder mounts and after that I'll reinstall the differential opposite of how it was removed. Once that is all done I'll removes the steering knuckles so I can sandblast the housings and knuckles separate. I plan on sandblasting the housings with the diffs in them. I will probably take off the drive flanges and seal the open inputs as well as closing off the open axle housing ends with duct tape and plastic.
Bought a half dozen of these recently for "down the road."
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jzVFCVIPGFQ/VcAAcJ_QotI/AAAAAAAAAKI/GFkLr-qQHk8/s512-Ic42/corn%252520crib%252520012.JPG)
And the gold mine just keeps on giving up fat nuggets........
Found this Bearfoot 3 picture recently in a separate photo album:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ingL4ghGZnE/VcAAD9IY3DI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/f7noTne9DR0/s512-Ic42/Bearfoot%252520wash.jpg)
Giving Bearfoot a bath. Really wish camera technology had been better evolved and more affordable in 1985.........
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Update:
As the slow pace of this project has allowed I have been researching different pivot and attachment methods for my steering cylinders.
Going to use 3/4" female heim joints. Luckily they have the same thread as my cylinder rods.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0T0c4aQ9nNw/Vb_7jfWlnNI/AAAAAAAAAI0/alYWCCz0BYk/s512-Ic42/014.JPG)
Here is a pic of one of the cylinders and a jig that will be used in place of the cylinder to weld the mount to the axle housing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rO9aWQ4VUOI/Vb_7hvKFyKI/AAAAAAAAAIs/ZluyFpKm-yE/s512-Ic42/013.JPG)
If research can be considered progress on this build then I have accomplished more than the recent actual hands on work.
After a trip to watch my youngest son's college team play baseball my trip home included a long delayed trip back to the home of Bigfoot. I thought it would be good to see how the most experienced monster truck had built his steering. If anyone would know what works it would have to be Bigfoot. Man, was I in for a surprise.
I had these 3/4" heims for years from a failed traction bar setup on my puller. I didn't think they would be adequate for a monster truck swinging 66" wide foot print tires. But, that is why I stopped, to see what worked on the old-schoolers.
This truck, Bigfoot 1, used the very set up I had envisioned for my truck. I had scored a win without knowing the rules of the game.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zqyv-Hj4elM/Vb_99aJcOgI/AAAAAAAAAJc/hcxphU4aOCA/s512-Ic42/bigfoot%252520004.JPG)
The difference being I will have my tie rod out front whereas Bigfoot's is in behind the front axle. I like my set up because the force from the hydraulic cylinders isn't being directly transferred through the cast on arms of the knuckles.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5u8yZy4Zg4o/Vb_7S8wF6xI/AAAAAAAAAHs/pTEFJCDO_vA/s512-Ic42/bigfoot%252520008.JPG)
Bigfoot took this route because it leaves a cleaner frontal look, and I can appreciate that.
Bigfoot 1 also uses 66" rubber but was shod on 48" Firestones as it set in the showroom.
FWIW, this truck was in the showroom that day. I think I had them convinced to swap the engine and body over to a Chevy Silverado type so I could take it home. They acted like it was no problem with a cool $250,000.00 on my part.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-So51a-Io0tI/Vb_9_Xj5rLI/AAAAAAAAAJk/kXgaTH7yXek/s512-Ic42/bigfoot%252520005.JPG)
And if you guys get Spike TV this is the 640ci hemi they recently rebuilt on one of the Sunday morning Powerblock shows.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F5M3dMRJ1zM/Vb_-AkGuaCI/AAAAAAAAAJs/ovBrK-9JSIw/s512-Ic42/bigfoot%252520006.JPG)
So, back to my research. I was able to acertain that 3/4" heims would indeed work for my application.
By using special top grade military/aerospace heims (not your every day available low quality, go-fast, speed shop parts) I can achieve a joint capable of almost 30,000# of ultimate static radial strength. The large surface of my steering cylinders will only produce approximately 2,500# of force. This is less than 10% of the capacity of the strongest 3/4" heims, and this is assuming an ultimate high output of 1,450psi of pressure from the modified GM/Saginaw steering pump. The military/aerospace grade heims also come with a special teflon lining so messy grease isn't an issue. Also the lack of any grease fitting adds to the overall strength of the military/aerospace rod end.
So, would the 3/4" heims be sufficient for this build? Well, how much more evidence should I need if they will steer Bigfoot 5's 120" Firestone Tundra tires?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kP5YTuA0_6w/Vb_7kOqLCvI/AAAAAAAAAI8/Daw_zZMYs6o/s512-Ic42/004.jpg)
Sorry if it is a low quality picture but it was raining and the lighting was low from the cloud cover.
The axle pic is a photo that I took of this truck's rear axle:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O6Njf-AF4bc/Vb_97-MIalI/AAAAAAAAAJU/3LgByfdc5R8/s512-Ic42/bigfoot%252520003.JPG)
Again, it uses the same balanced cross connected steering cylinder set up I am building into my truck, and is present on Bigfoot 1.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pU87lMoLo7c/Vb_7RNMfXhI/AAAAAAAAAHk/O5CXRw3pZ44/s512-Ic42/bigfoot%252520007.JPG)
So, here is the latest progress:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HClhBJAB7PA/Vb_7NfqlcfI/AAAAAAAAAHU/s8wPHzHIXZg/s512-Ic42/front%252520002.JPG)
Made a bar to hold the spring seats true, centered, square, and level while I welded them into place.
Then started the process of boxing them in:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0PxX5BjST6U/Vb_7UNJPgdI/AAAAAAAAAH0/HAvJLP3FLKM/s512-Ic42/005.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0RT8s90jHqE/Vb_7PQbUbHI/AAAAAAAAAHc/nkIda561w7M/s512-Ic42/front%252520003.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gywq4H9IaYk/Vb_7VR9kdyI/AAAAAAAAAH8/xuL7K8AwKZs/s512-Ic42/006.JPG)
These photos are after the torque rod brackets were added on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KwUl_1Jr-4I/Vb_7eUuoT1I/AAAAAAAAAIc/L-_jk2XcYYs/s512-Ic42/010%252520%2525284%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XM9TJCm0dF0/Vb_7cMW_EdI/AAAAAAAAAIU/uTkXQCWqaJ0/s512-Ic42/009%252520%2525286%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6gSX6CQLZW0/Vb_7Z4_14nI/AAAAAAAAAIM/5kEWUfbWBC4/s512-Ic42/008%252520%2525284%252529.JPG)
And while I was goofing around I thought it cool to see what polishing the housing would turn out like.....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p9AwwbKLXEU/Vb_7XXvj8GI/AAAAAAAAAIE/wl36ek8nl7E/s512-Ic42/007%252520%2525283%252529.JPG)
That is the back side before the torque rods brackets were welded on. Will probably do the front side to give it a cleaner look.
Next I will be welding on the steering cylinder anchor mounts. Still brain storming, er um brain farting that idea. It must be functional, and it must be of a quality that prohibits failure.
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Sweet update.
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I'll use the occasion of my 1,000th post to update my thread.
I bought the first of two required aerospace quality 3/4" female rod ends that I will use on my steering cylinders. The cheapest I have found these is $130.00/ea. At that price I have to wait for the budget to catch up before buying the second. The speed shop variety are much cheaper, but knowing the difference, and the margin of strength, and safety, I'll hold out until I can get the second of this part number.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0v3PO99lqqY/Vb_4q_GiicI/AAAAAAAAAGg/iojQtuloqUc/s512-Ic42/005%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
Finally, the metal fabricating portion of this project is about to wind up, and come to an end.
Finished fabbing my leaf spring clamps/lower shock mounts:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DOHQTzX_1WE/Vb_5kTq2XhI/AAAAAAAAAHA/y03zg1SAuGA/s512-Ic42/012%252520%2525284%252529.JPG)
The final step in this phase of the project is the layout of the steering cylinder center support.
The white soap stone mark indicates dead center of the axle. As you can see with the differential offset the bracket will have to wrap around the differential housing to be properly centered on the axle.
I hate to make mistakes, and since paint pens, and soap stones are cheap in relation to the expensive 1/2"x6" plate that I am fabricating, I make myself ample notes to prevent any folly.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wIxBSPW5W3U/Vb_4s11cMzI/AAAAAAAAAGo/bQZ-J0bG5FI/s512-Ic42/009%252520%2525287%252529.JPG)
Setting up the steering cylinders with full right and left steering travel meant placing the location of the anchor pin end of the cylinder on the center support with the cylinder in the fully retracted configuration.
This photo shows the set up dummy cylinder as it represents the pin, and rod end location if the cylinder was fully retracted. In this view the steering is placed straight ahead. By steering fully right I can locate the anchor pin hole on the center support. Then vice/versa for the left.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4GAkyHj_7uM/Vb_4oG8VsWI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/aiQeGdVWko0/s512-Ic42/003.JPG)
However, that had to wait because the steering stop for each side was located on opposite knuckles the toe had to first be adjusted as not to mislocate the pin hole by drilling it before adjusting the toe.
Since I am switching the axle around opposite as it set in the 5-ton what was toe in now became toe out.
In this blurry view you can see the bars I used to adjust my toe setting at 1/4" toe-in with what would be a 40" tall tire.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e4VITxr0x68/Vb_4pQQQy1I/AAAAAAAAAGY/T6kHAVUt4AY/s512-Ic42/004%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
50 odd years of out-in-the-elements seasonal changes and dust, and dirt blowing around made that tie rod a bugger to adjust. I finally used (to my chagrin) a 4' pipe wrench to break it loose. Then I fully unscrewed it and completely cleaned the threads of all of the foreign matter. Problem now is that I have to dress the chew marks off the tie rod where the pipe wrench gnawed it all up.
With that complete I could continue with the fab of the center support.
Here are all of the pieces that will be the center support. From this angle you should be able to see the slight bend, or camber I added to the center support. Due to the kingpin axis inclination angle the cylinders will stroke slightly uphill. The bend is to minimize any binding of the anchor pins. The three marked pieces are the gussets that will brace the center support from deflecting up, or down. The two flat pieces will be drilled 3/4" the same as the center support for the anchor pins. The cylinder anchor clevises are wide enough to accept a 7/8" bracket. The 3/8" flat stock added to the 1/2" center support will give me the appropriate 7/8" thick mount. Not shown is an additional support gusset that will brace from below. May not need that. We'll see.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--nLlXjgVFRg/Vb_4uX-wD2I/AAAAAAAAAGw/Hgq_oxitUEc/s512-Ic42/012%252520%2525285%252529.JPG)
And, as soon as the center support is finished and on the front axle, all of the metal fab will be finished. Then the sandblasting will commence.
Here is some select junk that will get the clean up treatment.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s1huApCWWnM/Vb_4vsryWFI/AAAAAAAAAG4/qqGY3QOaAtE/s512-Ic42/013%252520%2525287%252529.JPG)
I'll have to pull the knuckles, and tie rod off of the front axle to sandblast that. Even without the sandblast treatment the knuckles would have to come off to install the new knuckle boots. I bought the cleaner looking one piece knuckle boots, not the zipper type that are made for a complete vehicle. I am thinking I can reinstall the rear hubs and sandblast the whole rear axle as a unit. I am going to replace the hub seals anyway and a little sand intrusion will be cleaned out when I repack the wheel bearings. After the frame is sandblasted we can start painting, and then (woo hoo!) reassembly.
Hopefully I will have the center support on in a couple of days and can post pics of that. I'm really pumped that this part is almost complete.
Fun, fun. Stay tuned.
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I'm enjoying the built.
What color will the truck be?
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fitz- if you look back to the last picture in post number 59 there is a photo of a 2011 SilveradoHD in blue granite metallic. That is the color I chose. I always have liked blue, and the blue granite metallic is the kind of color I can look at in 10~20 years and not say "what was I thinking" unlike some colors GM has used in the past. IMO it is a classy without being gaudy type of color.
Refer to post 87 & 97 for pics of my cab and front end with paint and trim installed.
Still have to paint the hood and bed. I need to restrip the hood and finish stripping the bed. Going bare metal on all the body panels. I want a fresh start to metal to eliminate any future issues with old paint.
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This thread never ceases to impress!!
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I 2nd that opinion bd ...
This thread never ceases to impress!!
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I 2nd that opinion bd ...This thread never ceases to impress!!
opinion or fact?
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Good point Irish. It's a FACT... that truck is the definition of a monster. Baffles me reading/looking at engineer's truck build,.... So thorough and detailed, unique , well put together doesn't do his work justice .... It's beyond that by far.... In my mind it's hard to put to words.... This truck is insane
I 2nd that opinion bd ...This thread never ceases to impress!!
opinion or fact?
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the screen name "Engineer" fits him GOOD (and he has to be one). cause i dont think most of use could do something on this level with this much detail
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Yeah it does fit him well. Ha...... No way..... Most of us are not highly skilled...... I am included in that category
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Hahaha.
I think it would probably surprise you guys how much I have learned from reading y'all's threads.
I do have a sheet of paper complete with transcripts that certifies that I was taught something........but the learning never stops.
I had a ton of things planned for this weekend but life happens. Going to try to get the center support on sometime. My oldest son went to TGW and left me behind (mostly because of------>). My youngest son is playing his first semi-pro baseball game this weekend (can't miss that). I have a 50th anniversary party to go to. I have a role in church this weekend that I can't miss, and after that is a family reunion on my mom's side.
I won't be sandblasting like I wanted but if I get the center support welded on I'll consider it a win.
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Engineer, I don't know about the others on here but after looking through the first page I have already decided that nothing you do is going to surprise me. I was impressed early on and you have not disappointed! You have to be an engineer because you really have an eye for detail as well as a great plan for everything. I really like how you tell us what you are doing and then explain why you did it throughout this whole thread. It makes complete sense whenever you post anything. I keep thinking "Ok I see why he did that now" every time I read one of your posts.
There is no doubt in my mind that this truck is going to be first rate. I have seen no corners being cut so far in this thread. As a matter of fact I foresee you having very minimal maintenance to keep the truck going after it is completed. The reason I say this is due to the fact you are very thorough in both the planning and execution concerning your build. Job well done so far. I am impressed and so are others.
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Since you guys have shown a peak interest in this thread I'll try to update it more often.
This update spans work done over two weekends, and this one isn't finished yet. May do some more tomorrow. We'll see.
Here is what I have for now.
I finally was able to mount the steering cylinder center support. Had to go back and add a little more camber. Took forever, but I want to get it as close as possible to neutral so the steering cylinder pins don't bind up as the cylinders operate. After I modify the mounting clevises on the steering cylinders to suit my tastes I will need to go back and mount them and cycle them with compressed air just to be sure that there is no binding of the pins, or the rod ends. This is critical for reliability, and long life. The cylinder rods, and pistons are not designed for side loading, and the rod ends only specify a slight amount of side loading for continuous operation. If the cylinder rod, and piston is side loaded it will wear at an extreme rate on one side, and could even bend the rod.
Last weekend, setting up to be even, and level:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KZ4xV7vNbH4/Vb_1vZrwM4I/AAAAAAAAAD4/YN_RrvMEW6g/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520008.JPG)
Welded on with bracing:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RL8WPJTgGeA/Vb_1yevAB8I/AAAAAAAAAEI/_3RgxE-csRg/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520010.JPG)
A clear pic without the cylinder set up jig:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bLJ_JBNPCkU/Vb_1zkIaAsI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/IV7MlkqPR5E/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520011.JPG)
One evening this week in preparation for sand blasting the rear axle I experimented with polishing the rough off of the housing. I think it looks good. Going to do this to the front of the front axle housing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4wJZJrBu8TQ/Vb_11TmKvXI/AAAAAAAAAEY/7xfMq5Q1N1M/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520012.JPG)
Here is today. Going to do the bottom side:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zqJQHWV_8sg/Vb_13R0heGI/AAAAAAAAAEg/9QK-9zlssK8/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520018.JPG)
Big, and cool, huh? ;)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-979On8uZuu0/Vb_144YbKMI/AAAAAAAAAEo/N75pWiEYCgc/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520019.JPG)
A close up of the underside:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_OlYd3G8ZVQ/Vb_15xTIg9I/AAAAAAAAAEw/MZjiIBDa-qI/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520020.JPG)
Since this is the steering cylinder mount any failure of any of these components is a potential for a real disaster. So, to avoid any possible issue with a cavity, porosity, or a weak weld, I dug this water line trench down to the upper weld. I wanted total penetration for a complete and overlapping securement. (now I know what a dentist experiences when looking for the bottom of a tooth cavity. 8)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--o-VlUSHJJ0/Vb_17Lt5spI/AAAAAAAAAE4/rseolWv7NB4/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520021.JPG)
After about 5 passes with a few extra amps just for good measure, I gave her a little dressing to make her shine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sWkSDvwmP_g/Vb_18KcCg3I/AAAAAAAAAFA/IAuOWAc6Jeg/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520022.JPG)
Then I went about adding the 3/8" flat stock to bring the mounting points up to the 7/8" thickness the cylinders are made for.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0Mp_uW_yoC0/Vb_19WWAmKI/AAAAAAAAAFI/IzNa9_CZ3e0/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520023.JPG)
Side on:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k1SiTgLJXdw/Vb_1-9vfz-I/AAAAAAAAAFQ/mL610zyPh3w/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520024.JPG)
A pic of the cylinder set up jig. As I say, next will be to focus on getting the cylinders modified for 3/4" anchor pins. (currently is 5/8") then I will mount them up to see if any material will be needed to be removed to eliminate any binding.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cAj_xLwc9vA/Vb_2BIE61hI/AAAAAAAAAFg/zJbDImRArno/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520026.jpg)
After that it will be time to finish disassembly so I can sandblast it all. I can't wait.
Stay tuned.
Bonus posting!!!!!
Recently the TGW crew filmed a new epidsode at a mud park local to me. I really wanted to go, but as I alluded to in a prior post my son started his "next level" of baseball.
I was able to snap a few photos of a couple of rigs I seen in local gas stations. I problably seen 100+ trucks out driving around with work but was not able to photograph them all. Here are just a few:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uMjDhtDdQfM/Vb_3eL6QjGI/AAAAAAAAAGE/8NH3WpUXTM4/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520007.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ajlRO8uaudA/Vb_3cjudTpI/AAAAAAAAAF4/6un6T8eRepY/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520004.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jZZNnyjX0tk/Vb_3dS9AYdI/AAAAAAAAAF8/0TlhsL92zNA/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520006.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O9TVPf27qks/Vb_3cLfFQBI/AAAAAAAAAFs/L6kwV8Bk2-k/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520002.JPG)
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Steering cylinders are mounted.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3GoP0LgUrSg/Vb_zisXUQJI/AAAAAAAAAC4/Fl8xl5xIsNM/s512-Ic42/Front%252520Steering%252520002.JPG)
The above view shows the camber, or angle built into the mount for the cylinders. I did things this way so that the cylinders operate in a level plane with the rotation axis of the steering knuckle as it rotates around the kingpins. This should result in a minimal angular change on the cylinder pivots. I say minimal because to put the cylinders in an exact right angle line would have meant dropping the center support an additional 2". I didn't want to go any lower and have the cylinders hanging down below the housing, so I can live with this slight compromise. The other option would to have been replacing the clevis on the anchor end of the cylinder with a ball type pivot, but this clevis set up is much more simple, and sometime KISS just works.
Another view:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r532-11zY-k/Vb_zhYUDE0I/AAAAAAAAACw/yB_3K6DrJog/s512-Ic42/Front%252520Steering%252520001.JPG)
The biggest issue here was to cycle the cylinders totally from steering stop to steering stop to check for any binding in the mounts. I had to do a little adjustment of the left mount, about 1°, but at no point do the cylinders and their mounts bind up in any way. Binding would have caused side loading of the cylinder rod, and piston, not to mention the spherical rod ends are limited as to how much side loading they are designed for. So, free movement was essential to avoid premature wear of the steering components.
In the following view is the steering rotated in full lock to the right. To the viewer can be seen how the cross connected steering will function. As the left cylinder is extending the right will be contracting, and vice-versa. By connecting opposite chambers of the cylinder will give the approximate effect, or force, of a 2.5" double ended, double acting forklift type steering cylinder that is popular with the mud truck crowd.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7GeCaTRRF3I/Vb_zkD43vMI/AAAAAAAAADA/xwbc3Y89sRM/s512-Ic42/Front%252520Steering%252520003.JPG)
This view shows the anchor ends of the cylinders, and the center support. The cylinders came with 5/8" clevis pins. I thought these to be barely adequate so I drilled the clevises out to accept 3/4" pins. In doing so I felt I may have left too little margin on the clevis around the clevis pin so I decided to reinforce the area to prevent a failure. The clevises are simply press formed 1.5"x.375" flat stock. So I added an additional 3/8x1 1/2 flat to the top and bottom. This extra reinforcement has the additional benefit of more surface area to support against pin wear. The bolts are hardened grade 8 3/4" hex bolts. I will use a standard lock nut to avoid loss of the nut because torque is not required to retain the bolt, and not possible without binding the pivot, the lock nut will prevent loss of the bolt.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9IHqY9A_yrk/Vb_zoURJ9OI/AAAAAAAAADY/0ja5xjz8nvY/s512-Ic42/Front%252520Steering%252520007.JPG)
During this time I sourced the -6 AN fittings that I will need to plumb all of this from the OE GM/Saginaw steering pump to the Eaton steering valve, through the 1991 Suburban's factory engine oil cooler, (the factory engine oil cooler was on my radiator support when I purchased it) to the cylinders.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u-dmoWo_LdM/Vb_zlu6fu8I/AAAAAAAAADI/SfqdnOWBki4/s512-Ic42/Front%252520Steering%252520005.JPG)
Here they are on mock up. The 90° fittings will connect to the opposite cylinder's tee fitting:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RT5vtuqU2uY/Vb_znMy5spI/AAAAAAAAADQ/qcM0k8335Ek/s512-Ic42/Front%252520Steering%252520006.JPG)
I stripped all of the paint off because I intend to paint the cylinders white. The cylinders are pretty similar in body dimension to my shock absorbers. By painting them to match, and using black shock boots, it will give the impression of matching steering stabilizer shocks.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yPzxvKpHuJ0/Vb_zwiTc6pI/AAAAAAAAADo/aW7ALd7gCFk/s512-Ic42/Front%252520Steering%252520008.JPG)
I also sourced all of the components to build my suspension torque rods. These will be made from 2"x2" square steel tubing. The round pipe will be welded across one end and the rubber bushing will be pressed into it. This will be the axle end. The ball socket will be welded to the opposite end and will be the frame end. Bolts are 7/8" grade 8.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qN1CrtJuOcU/Vb_zp1NfoeI/AAAAAAAAADg/04QAiP9vDAU/s512-Ic42/Front%252520Steering%252520009.JPG)
In the coming days I plan on tearing the front axle the rest of the way down. I'll then polish the front of the housing. After that I'll be able to wash out the housing. I'll probably use diesel fuel, because the gear oil residue has collected copious amounts of grit, dust, and metal shavings from the fabrication process. After it is cleaned I'll drop the differential back in it so that the drive flanges are in the center, then I can sandblast it.
I was hoping to sandblast this stuff soon, but the humidity around here has already brought on the rust on some of the parts previously stripped. So I may wait to sandblast these things until I have my paint for the frame. (which shouldn't be too long) I'm going to use the same color GM metallic gold the puller frame was the only change will be to a fleet/industrial grade paint. I am not happy with the Centari. It chips with the slightest bump of anything sharp, or dull for that matter.
If I do have to pause the axles/frame phasen while waiting for paint there are still tons of other tasks that need to be completed so it is not like I am at a stopping point. We'll see, stay tuned.
Ta for now,
Engineer
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Excellent as usual. I like your thinking behind the steering setup. I'm no expert but that makes sense to me.
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Nice! I have a 78 K20...aswell as a 87 1500 Sierra.. Folks tell me they like the 87 better..but I prefer the 78..! Loojs tougher!!
Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk
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Nice! I have a 78 K20...aswell as a 87 1500 Sierra.. Folks tell me they like the 87 better..but I prefer the 78..! Loojs tougher!!
Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk
I also have 78 k20 my first truck and love it.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/01/5fdf62b2f41e2d4ffd137f23d7e49359.jpg)
Sorry for the edit that's the best pic I have but i put the original grill back in it recent
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/01/c4695df2794a151b71ac9ed1e3da7263.jpg)
My current set up got turbo 400 trans and 350 wanna wanna put what truck came original with witch was 400 sb
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/01/e004f058d2799c12e4b1bf126d6f29dc.jpg)
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Nice! I have a 78 K20...aswell as a 87 1500 Sierra.. Folks tell me they like the 87 better..but I prefer the 78..! Loojs tougher!!
Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk
I don't think you can go wrong with either. I had the square front '77 for years. With this project I just want to build my dream truck. No corners are being cut. After this is done I may try to search out a '79, or '80 model 4x4. After switching this project over to 5-tons I still have a newly rebuilt, and upgraded set of D60/14-bolt axles, and a 465/205 combo that is sitting around drawing dust.
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Not much to report. I have the front axle housing completely finished as far as the fabrication goes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5NH0dcqFYTY/Vb_y583x6UI/AAAAAAAAACk/oA-54ltfDfE/s512-Ic42/july%2525204%252520002.JPG)
Took the time to polish out most of the metal finish so as to make it look smoothed. After I sandblast it before I prime it I will smooth it more with a little filler and 320 paper. Should give it a look like it is made from molded plastic.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GDu2klNeIes/Vb_yQ1em-WI/AAAAAAAAACM/4bxenoKOryA/s512-Ic42/july%2525204%252520010.JPG)
Decided to try out the sandblaster in between monsoon downpours. Big mistake. After the rains subsided the heat came in but the moisture stayed behind. Ugh. After cleaning, a couple of my parts started to rust. Oh well, no biggie, I'll just go over those spots again before I paint. Shouldn't need much since the hard part is scratching off all of the armorplate, er, um, I mean the original army green paint.
Here are the shackles, spring plates/lower shock mounts, transmission cross member, and the left hand steering knuckle. The right hand knuckle is in the lower right of the picture to give a good before/after perspective of what the sandblaster is able to accomplish. :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NyRHKoanYU8/Vb_ySMCoLPI/AAAAAAAAACU/QZpXXY0gVFY/s512-Ic42/july%2525204%252520022.JPG)
And the tie rod.....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zKj64lIup_o/Vb_yTfQkMUI/AAAAAAAAACc/tNwJ3SIFzQ4/s512-Ic42/july%2525204%252520023.JPG)
Wasn't going to do the tie rod orginally because I was afraid of contaminating the tie rod end joint with blasting sand, but I took my time and was careful not to get any sand in it.
For now I may look at other tasks to perform, like fixing the roll bar to suit me. I'm going to hold up on anymore sandblasting until I have my primer, and paint. It looks as though I'll have to sandblast, and prime immediately, then paint in a 24hr period to eliminate the rust factor. The temperature, humidity, heat index, and dewpoint, are all conspiring to throw a wrench into my well oiled machine.
I think the sales dude talked me into going with epoxy primer under urethane paint for the frame and axles. It will be more expensive, and time consuming, but buy once cry once. No use in doing it sub-standardly then having something that looks like crap 10 years down the road.
Yours Truly,
Engineer
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As always, insightful with some awesome pictures. Keep up the good work!
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Not much to report, but a little progress just the same.
As I posted in the past, it is critical to me, with this build, to use as many GM OEM parts as humanly possible. I was able to aquire one of the last pieces that I need to finish the body of my truck and keep it all GM.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-re1gNhAey4s/Vb_wgsgy7GI/AAAAAAAAABc/9dmqrdvLL_g/s512-Ic42/%25252777%252520progress%252520002.JPG)
This is the front air dam that goes under the front bumper of 1981~1987(91) K/V series 4x4 trucks without tow hooks. This is the taller 5.25" air deflector as opposed to the 3.5" unit that was available on the C/R series 4x2 trucks.
This photo shows the parts bin tag with an OE date of February 1999. That put this part at 16 years old. I think we can call it a "NOOOS" part. Hehe.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rsk-bPIkxi0/Vb_wfctfbvI/AAAAAAAAABU/Enh4S0-DvNQ/s512-Ic42/%25252777%252520progress%252520001.JPG)
After I reserached this part number, and knew what I wanted, I set out to find said part from the OE supply chain so I didn't have to use aftermarket. (again, as previously mentioned, not intended to slight the guys that use aftermarket, just trying to avoid it on this build) Anyhow, my local Chevy dealer found out for me that this part was long ago discontinued. A search of dealer inventory revealed two dealerships that showed to have one each in stock. A call to the first dealer proved their inventory to be inaccurate, and they didn't have the part. A call to the second was paydirt, and we were able to locate the VERY LAST K-series 4x4 front air dam available from GM. Just like the '91 Blazer V22 grille in this project I GOTS ME THE LAST BRAND NEW ONE FROM GM!!!!!!!. And even better, the dealer I bought it from priced it to me including shipping, for less, or about the same, than the aftermarket has it before shipping. How cool is that?
Now focus on the following photo of the Stomper Bully truck for a second. Why do I want this front air dam, and why no tow hooks? The front of my monster frame will sit really close to what you see here in relation to the original front bumper. The front air dam won't hide the front of the frame from view, but it will serve to overlap in front of the frame so that it will blend the frame into the body of the truck. By leaving the gap between the OE bumper, and the monster frame I fear the result would look like a shark with an underbite. Definately detract from the flow of the body.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PW0rBtr7e4s/Vb_wxZ0Yy9I/AAAAAAAAAB4/Eu3pn28nu5s/s500-Ic42/3759003257_9e97c8a10c.jpg)
The Bully gets away with it because he has the pushbar, but I want a clean OE front bumper void of even bumper guards or trim so as to compliment the beautiful 1991 Blazer V22 grille.
And while I'm on here, enjoy some views of recently sandblasted parts that had color dumped on them.....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YrXo57-h2nw/Vb_wnIbYf-I/AAAAAAAAABk/XuNmeSMAJFQ/s512-Ic42/%25252777%252520progress%252520003.JPG)
Painted the spring shackles black too.
And here is a picture of one of my steering cylinders painted white to match my shocks. The rod clevis is just temporary. It is what the cylinders shipped with. I'll be replacing these with the spherical heim ends when I do the final assembly.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6rHzO9G83RU/Vb_wtUn_nMI/AAAAAAAAABs/M4ukZV5-37I/s512-Ic42/%25252777%252520progress%252520005.JPG)
I'm going to put black shock boots on these to match the ones on my shocks. It should give the impression of steering stabilizers. Or at the very least they will match the theme of the shock theirselves.
Youngest son's summer baseball season is coming to a close. Next weekend he will be playing in the NBC World Series in Wichita, KS. I'm not going, I'll stay home, $$$. Now that baseball is taking a break for about 8 weeks (his college will play fall ball) I can hopefully get some production on this monster J-O-B.
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Good job. I had a very similar story of finding rare parts when I found what seems to be the last GM OEM cargo lamp switch. Definitely really really old.
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Well, I don't know what to do. As can be seen this thread has been scrubbed of all of my uploaded pics. Apparently our home internet service provider and google had a childish squabble. A few years ago our ISP started using a form of gmail for e-mails. I didn't like the idea then because it caused us to have to realign all of our correspondence and web files. However, there was support back then to do that. Now, that support is not there and there seems to be no interest from either party to help us with these problems. As is evidenced this thread is without its pictures. What good is any of this text without pictures?
I can't access our web photo hosting account because the old photo account used the current ISP e-mail address. Google has locked us out and will not grant us access to our old photographs.
I'll look into fixing this massive google/ISP caused train derailment at a future date. To put all of the photos back into this thread could take days. Just one folder that I use for this build has over 500 pictures in it. Then there is a separate folder for the monster truck photos. Anyone who is late to this thread it will seem like a waste to read through it without the pics, I apologise for that, but I'll see if I can fix the mess at a later date. Each post in this thread is the result of 45mins~1 hour of work. By the time I load the pictures into my computer, upload them to the interweb, then write a detailed description in this thread explaining each picture it takes a while. If this site that hosts these forums had photo hosting I wouldn't be in this predicament. Oh well.......
I did some work and that is what this update is all about.
I haven't been able to do much, it has been really hot. I need to sandblast but the humidity is at a point where I can't leave metal bare for more than a couple of hours. And the heat.......it is days like these you don't mind if the toilet seat is cold.......you might even welcome it.
Here is the latest:
No that is not a new appliance for my bathroom. I made a box to drop my front differential down into that I could seal up with a trash bag and not have to worry about getting blasting sand and paint on the gears and bearings.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pw6g279wtfQ/VblQ4z4KYfI/AAAAAAAAAAc/iUD1vri--x4/s512-Ic42/Front%252520diff%252520002.JPG)
Sandblasted my front differential:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1gYR-noujEU/VblQ6KIJr_I/AAAAAAAAAAk/gapDbIP5YJo/s512-Ic42/Front%252520diff%252520004.JPG)
Then put the primer on it.
I am using DuPont epoxy primer. It is tough stuff. I love using it but hate putting it on. During the front end sheet metal phase I had trouble getting it to lay out. I did some experimenting to see if I could improve the application. The TDS calls for 8~10psi at the cap if you apply it with a HVLP gun. This just causes the epoxy to spatter. I tried thinning down the epoxy with some reducer when applying it to the front end sheet metal. This worked slightly, but not satisfactorily. The formula calls for a 4:1 mix of epoxy resin, and activator. I did a 4:1:2 formula of epoxy/activator/reducer. Then I dialed my HVLP gun up to 40psi. This trick worked. I got good coverage with no runs, and no spatter. My 1.4mm tip HVLP gun is not ideal for epoxy primer, but I made it work.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MblXDHatYII/VblQ7ZHZjjI/AAAAAAAAAAs/F9c4oKHMwM0/s512-Ic42/Front%252520diff%252520007.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DKbcMHnTS14/VblQ8VzEIqI/AAAAAAAAAA0/HyYj0LI-JK8/s512-Ic42/Front%252520diff%252520008.JPG)
Then I put the color on it. DuPont chassis gloss black.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_5tbRRKayew/VblQ90uFZfI/AAAAAAAAAA8/qbn0L__ewfE/s512-Ic42/Front%252520diff%252520009.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xEFu5PJm2RY/VblQ_QVvubI/AAAAAAAAABE/i_XsIp4GwRY/s512-Ic42/Front%252520diff%252520010.JPG)
The differentials, springs, shackles, and lower shock brackets will be gloss black. The axle housings, steering knuckles, tie rod, and frame will be gold. I think it will look good under the blue body.
Til later,
Engineer.
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Wow that stinks hope you get your picture problem fixed
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Nice! Fresh painted parts are always a welcome site. Sorry to hear about your Internet major malfunction.
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Well I believe I have all of the pictures back in this page somewhat, had to rustle some of the pictures and words in the post with the Bigfoot4x4 visit, but everything else is GTG. Pages 1~4 will have to wait. This one caused a big enough headache for today. I focused on it firstly because the information is most relevant. The older these posts are the more difficult it will be to relate text to pictures. Some of the early posts may have to be cleaned entirely. Probably will not focus too hard on the puller part. Will try to be as accurate as it pertains to the monster truck build.
Anyway, here is this weekend's report.
I threw 4 $100.00 bills on the counter at the local auto paint supply house. Going to try PPG this time for the frame and axles. ESSS commercial truck single stage. Staying with the gold metallic that I chose for the puller frame.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X_EByg_4I2Y/VcAEKf1GaeI/AAAAAAAAAL4/Zi_adoNRr38/s512-Ic42/IMG_3708.jpg)
Sandblasted a few more parts.
All of the front axle parts are sandblasted except the housing itself. I may do that this weekend, and go over the knuckles, and tie rod again. Then put on the paint. If so, I should be able to start reassembly of the front axle after this weekend. :) ;D(YAY!!!!);D :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cu_kXddoq3Q/VcAETnhPXSI/AAAAAAAAAMo/tDd279tWN-0/s512-Ic42/IMG_3705.jpg)
Steering arms:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3Jnp4XNy8YQ/VcAEUUz2IAI/AAAAAAAAAMw/oxXQpMVDy5k/s512-Ic42/IMG_3706.jpg)
Front leaf springs. These were a chore. The paint that StLouis Spring used was some kind of rubbery gunk. You could literally see the sand bouncing off the paint. It had to be peeled, not blasted. Ugh. That is why only the fronts, and not the backs got the treatment this time.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A74BGD1uKvE/VcAER6Z14xI/AAAAAAAAAMg/0FhYVRgAFQM/s512-Ic42/IMG_3704.jpg)
Some primer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9HS4cAUcCPY/VcAEL-QIPQI/AAAAAAAAAMA/mwQctfb8jgE/s512-Ic42/IMG_3709.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dlwSQosT1OM/VcAENS9ZwaI/AAAAAAAAAMI/TuLBpRsz_og/s512-Ic42/IMG_3710.jpg)
Then paint:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5Hm9DUuNfBk/VcAEPDiv9bI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/XqZx_9n8ujY/s512-Ic42/IMG_3711.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BhV5axgNjuA/VcAEQyLmJOI/AAAAAAAAAMY/LzzizRwa1DM/s512-Ic42/IMG_3712.jpg)
Why did I strip black paint off of the springs then repaint them black? Well simple, the springs had spots of rust where the coverage was bad, and I also put down a good base of the DuPont epoxy primer I had left before adding the glossy black finish.
So, hopefully I can get the time to fix the pics in the previous pages soon. For anyone who is late to this thread the pics will make the text more presentable. Hard to envision what all of this is without the pics. If anyone is reading this that is interested in pages 1~4 check back often, I'll try to do what I can when I can.
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As always, very good.
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Where's all the photos gone from the earlier posts? Could see them a couple of weeks ago but now they've disappeared
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Well, I don't know what to do. As can be seen this thread has been scrubbed of all of my uploaded pics. Apparently our home internet service provider and google had a childish squabble. A few years ago our ISP started using a form of gmail for e-mails. I didn't like the idea then because it caused us to have to realign all of our correspondence and web files. However, there was support back then to do that. Now, that support is not there and there seems to be no interest from either party to help us with these problems. As is evidenced this thread is without its pictures. What good is any of this text without pictures?
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I always look forward to any new postings by Engineer in this thread. He never disappoints either. Sorry to hear about the internet trouble. I am glad you got it fixed because all of us like your pics! Keep plugging away at the truck and it will be done before you know it.
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Page 1 is back, and about 1/2 of page 4.
Again, my apologies. I'll try to get more done when I can.
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Engineer, you seem to have a good grasp of what you are doing, and it's a very cool project. There is a Very Large community of Monster Truck people around who would love to see your progress. I hope this is not viewed as proselytizing, but the Monster Truck Fans, Drivers, Crew Members page, the Monster Trucks then and now page, and Monster Trucks Parts for sale are a good spot. Also the message board monstermayhem.org is a great resource if you don't like Facebook.
Anyway, I helped restore the old school Southern Sunshine monster truck, so seeing a new old school monster truck is exciting to me.
Are you planning on doing any kind of car crushing with it when your done?
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Thanks Paul. If I had more time I would be on those other boards, and Facebook. Don't be afraid to share this thread. And anybody is welcome to come in here and comment.
As far as the car crush I may try it one time just to say I have done it. No mud or serious use for this truck. If I get the urge to do that I'll junk another one together. Plenty of 1988+ iron to beat on. The 73~87(91) iron is getting too precious to risk bending.
Check back often. I have some more done to the truck and hopefully I can get the earlier pictures back in this thread soon. That all takes time. Right now I'm focused on getting the truck put together before winter so I can do the detail work during the cold weather months. I have to juggle work, cutting firewood, my younger son's fall college baseball season, add all of that with the fact that I'm not 20 anymore. Anyway, the heavy work is almost finished. Like I say check back often I'm sure you'll like my next update.
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If you need any advice, let me know, I've restored a couple of trucks and until recently made my living working in the industry, and anything I don't know, I know who to go to.
I'm going to be honest, I haven't looked through all the pages of the thread, but are you Boxing the frame or Fish Plating it or both?
Also, here's a few pictures of the truck I mentioned earlier...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GhtBVgKHJiY
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The frame is box tubing, all custom, not using any of the factory frame.. Didn't see the need for fish plating. Trying to keep the build light.
If you go back through the thread many of the pictures are missing. I'm trying to get that fixed. It just takes time. I'll try to get the pictures of the frame up so you can see how it is built.
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Reminds me alot of the "race trucks" that were still leaf sprung that started popping up after Bigfoot 8 debuted. Are you planning on Building a Roll cage that is attached to the frame? I know its just a toy/show piece, but after being in and around the industry for as long as I have I would recommend doing it. It doesnt have to be a Feld Spec 2.00 OD Double Hoop 7 Point cage, but something. Not only are they a lifesaver when you need one, but they increase the structural integrity of your chassis Alot, in case you ever wanted to hammer on it lol.
Also, if you havnt read through it, Marty Garza(Overkill) has some Great Monster Tech articles online.
http://www.trucktoyzperformance.com/realm/monster_tech_index.htm
Plus. if you ever feel like beefing up your 5 tons, theres a couple of guys that make some bad 5 ton upgrades. Gearhart Eng.(Russ Gearhart, used to have Mudhog) and Adams Offroad Performance are the top 5 ton guys in the industry right now.
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All of those safety mods I would build into a second truck. This '77 will only be for parades and static display. Really don't see a situation where safety equipment like u-joint collars, blow proof bellhousing, scatter shields, etc. are necessary.
If I build a second truck it certainly would be a play toy. But then again I wouldn't limit myself on a second build to the "old school" technology. A second truck would be most likely a fiberglass body mega truck. Four link, coil overs and all.
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Who is ready for an update?
I know it has been a while since I posted last but I have been busy to the extreme.
Here is the progress.
In this picture you can see why I sandblasted and repainted all of my springs. Two are done, and two are waiting. That stuff was a pain to get off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TLdirwf6ZXo/VhRwyA4DDJI/AAAAAAAAAWU/zGhq_Xiten8/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520002.JPG)
Then I went to work on the front axle.
Sandblasted:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FcM9jTJ2L8I/VhRw0Qi23yI/AAAAAAAAAWc/uYc-9KUP6FU/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520003.JPG)
Primer:
Knuckles, and tie rod can be seen in the back ground.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dgx3qDbM5lI/VhRw1-HvX0I/AAAAAAAAAWk/fInESTWyIEc/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520004.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o_U_5n4irv0/VhRw3VcrIdI/AAAAAAAAAWs/qsIR2KPrM6M/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520005.JPG)
Paint:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XkAKUEhDBuk/VhRw4_OscRI/AAAAAAAAAW0/cwjmOPFZxf8/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520006.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kYNy51s5LmM/VhRw6f53SbI/AAAAAAAAAW8/QZDSQM735LA/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520007.JPG)
Then I went after the frame. Had to move it around with my gooseneck trailer.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6NuS5UvEKZk/VhRw8zv31LI/AAAAAAAAAXE/J-wgmZC11YY/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520009.JPG)
Sandblasted:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gvimV-WBYzw/VhRw-np_agI/AAAAAAAAAXM/dzSQIR9-Oec/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520011.JPG)
Primer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i4nzAjBfJxQ/VhRxAB3tA_I/AAAAAAAAAXU/WkRz3-tNAgM/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520012.JPG)
Paint:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8Q35hqKda10/VhRxBpbuH4I/AAAAAAAAAXc/A0FFLQ-D8YI/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520013.JPG)
Again, I had to move it around with my trailer.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9V1WT-g_lm0/VhRxrTGodRI/AAAAAAAAAbE/qmyMDpjrnmI/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520023.jpg)
After the frame was painted and the paint on the axle had time to sufficiently degas I put the punkin back in:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r4oh85OqGlA/VhRxqg39kPI/AAAAAAAAAa8/QrUDemW4EIo/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520022.jpg)
I put the springs on the frame an then I set the frame on the front axle: :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4lycJtC7AhI/VhRxDA2znZI/AAAAAAAAAXk/EqdTZAmvq48/s512-Ic42/truck%252520001%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TqbMFc_MlQQ/VhRxEcFbJ3I/AAAAAAAAAXs/6iIdMKJxpWY/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520018.JPG)
Next up was putting the knuckles back on. But first the knuckle boot, and boot retainer go on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8RIf0sJkJJU/VhRxFjnVp9I/AAAAAAAAAX0/wziofdslCyU/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520024.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fsDXhq7yu0s/VhRxGz9keTI/AAAAAAAAAX8/txAOgsspBdQ/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520025.JPG)
Then the knuckle goes on with the king pin caps holding it in place:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I1jn4ZNtYfs/VhRxINQ2GUI/AAAAAAAAAYE/k8qOt15vk24/s512-Ic42/9-11%252520026.JPG)
Then you put the retainer on with the original screws that have holes in them for saftey wire:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6J_RsWugJhc/VhRxM47FkvI/AAAAAAAAAYc/CSGLxXo71GU/s512-Ic42/truck%252520004%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
Add the saftey wire:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3PAa6UOrY6E/VhRxdP0VcnI/AAAAAAAAAZs/dFXpKEciYFo/s512-Ic42/truck%252520024.JPG)
The other knuckle, and tie rod:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VPuNtFocPcI/VhRxOeNK6eI/AAAAAAAAAYk/xp6SUkRYB3g/s512-Ic42/truck%252520005%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
Next came this:
Using the factory Rockwell axle vent I fashioned a new vent tube that uses air brake tubing for the vent:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y73YCDhN0aU/VhRxJxuN7kI/AAAAAAAAAYM/XuVR7W_tUxQ/s512-Ic42/truck%252520002%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
Another view:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rpVv0OHqlGU/VhRxLOXf6OI/AAAAAAAAAYU/8TSV8tAFe8k/s512-Ic42/truck%252520003%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
Then these:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rrrcFYJNeqE/VhRxQ5lAbiI/AAAAAAAAAY0/pE3qfcemFUU/s512-Ic42/truck%252520009%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-osWf003SKPk/VhRxPnJvL1I/AAAAAAAAAYs/NN-VxG-KqAg/s512-Ic42/truck%252520008%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
Along the way we added shocks:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WMy3mPM8UcE/VhRxXNjOpaI/AAAAAAAAAZM/pHekyqfcX2o/s512-Ic42/truck%252520014.JPG)
This is one of the brackets I welded on earlier so I didn't have to mess up the paint. Brake line:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bZGN9c7A1rc/VhRxYUqypNI/AAAAAAAAAZU/wZnSbWrGAAk/s512-Ic42/truck%252520015.JPG)
Then I went to work on the steering:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pGFtvrGoZpQ/VhRxeWpiv9I/AAAAAAAAAZ0/rllzAhyPCd8/s512-Ic42/truck%252520025.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MpbEq6yqJKw/VhRxfqil9OI/AAAAAAAAAZ8/pe4whVUpYM0/s512-Ic42/truck%252520026%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
This is a good pic of the steering cylinders. I had hoped they would look like the shocks so that they would give the appearance of being matching steering stabilizers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TwHkBhrXzgk/VhRxlf71kdI/AAAAAAAAAac/z5WQiTE29Pg/s512-Ic42/truck%252520037.JPG)
Another view:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VCnGig9K4_Q/VhRxkOJMvII/AAAAAAAAAaU/PjqkpNJvjTg/s512-Ic42/truck%252520036.JPG)
All bolts, and nuts will eventually be painted black. If I have to go back into something I don't want to have painted the bolts and then scrub off the paint with a wrench.
Then it was time to give the rear axle the works:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4-FBf3RsgFE/VhRxV7y-CfI/AAAAAAAAAZE/QED762DeREU/s512-Ic42/truck%252520013.JPG)
Primered it, then painted the housing:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oyJzuKEnICk/VhRxZ2-va0I/AAAAAAAAAZc/IDzdOET7uS0/s512-Ic42/truck%252520020.JPG)
Masked off the differential and gave it the fog:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--k-_M667d2w/VhRxhNWdr4I/AAAAAAAAAaE/9Vhn92AkBSo/s512-Ic42/truck%252520027%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yu-DCXyUGEw/VhRxidf2fJI/AAAAAAAAAaM/SHuqbnjqbLA/s512-Ic42/truck%252520029.JPG)
How about that gloss. And this is the rear axle:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iyaHjXfwhz0/VhRxbNhxp0I/AAAAAAAAAZk/9A8pjlqUeIg/s512-Ic42/truck%252520021.JPG)
Then I put the rear axle under the frame and added all of the accessories:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cNwckI7g8Rc/VhR7JHeKlzI/AAAAAAAAAbU/SqILPvtT90k/s512-Ic42/rolling%252520frame%252520029.jpg)
And finally I was able to find time to put the front axle back together.
This pic shows how I painted the spindle since it will be visible after the truck is put together. Nuts, studs, and lock washers will be painted later as well:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G69Onjo6KU4/VhRxoWlLFbI/AAAAAAAAAas/TRFraM87rzc/s512-Ic42/rolling%252520frame%252520030.JPG)
Then I added the hubs. All four hubs will be coming back off so I can sandblast them and paint them. I need to add more lug studs. Just wanted to get the frame rolling so I can mount the body. :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KL1Jm2bKd10/VhRxpiigAII/AAAAAAAAAa0/UQpDxAK4llc/s512-Ic42/rolling%252520frame%252520031.JPG)
And there is the rolling chassis:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FWoKjoYeNb8/VhR7KEB_axI/AAAAAAAAAbc/JOHH9tQjizo/s512-Ic42/rolling%252520frame%252520032.jpg)
I haven't touched the body of the truck in eons, however, I decided to get this installed before I set the cab 10' in the air. It is the windshield lock strip. I'm going with black so it will more closely resemble a 1991 V3500. My '77 originally came with a chrome lock strip.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EZjh1_-bOKw/VhRxnKEzapI/AAAAAAAAAak/tCfD_tRO3U8/s512-Ic42/rolling%252520frame%252520028.JPG)
Lots more to talk about but I'm tired. More to come later. ;)
G'nite,
Engineer
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I always enjoy checking in on your build thread. I don't post many comments because, well, I know nothing about building a monster truck.
Keep us updated. This is a fun one to watch.
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Ditto
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Holy crapola! You have really don't alot of work since your last post, everything looks killer!
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Awesome work Engineer!
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Awesome work as usual. I get a little excited every time you post something. You have to be excited since you are seeing the results first hand. Keep up the good work and I look forward to the next round of pics.
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Engineer,
Amazing ground-up build.
Don't do you need shackles to compensate for the leaf springs wanting to lengthen when compressed?
EDIT:
Now that I think about it maybe shackles are on our stock suspensions to damp bouncing and improve ride and handling.
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Engineer,
Amazing ground-up build.
Don't do you need shackles to compensate for the leaf springs wanting to lengthen when compressed?
Yeah. There are shackles. You may not be able to see them because of the angle at which they are currently resting. Once I get the weight of the body and engine on it the shackles should cycle farther forward.
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Awesome work as usual. I get a little excited every time you post something. You have to be excited since you are seeing the results first hand. Keep up the good work and I look forward to the next round of pics.
This is a project 30 years in the making so yeah, I had to hide my giddy emotions from my wife as she helped set the frame on the front axle.
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Yeah. There are shackles. You may not be able to see them because of the angle at which they are currently resting. Once I get the weight of the body and engine on it the shackles should cycle farther forward.
I see them now.
My apology for the dumb question.
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I thought it was bad for the shackle to come at an angle like that to the spring? something about when the suspension cycles, the shackle could end up flipping the other way and binding up the suspension. I have always been told on unladen springs, the shackle shouldn't align, and should maintain at least a 40 degree angle(or 140 degree depending on how you look at it). meaning it looks like your shackle should have been moved back about 1-1/2 to 2 inches
but I digress.
Good looking build.
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The way my shackle is designed it can't flip. With no weight on the spring it only tilts inward by about 15°. That, and the frame has the upper end of the shackle barricaded so that the shackle can't travel any farther inward than where the shackle sets with the spring is sitting at rest.
The deep arch of the spring gives it an optical illusion which makes the angles look more severe than they actually are. :)
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Cool, thanks for that, I guess what I remember about that type of shackle comes from the jeep Cherokee's I've worked on, many having to use shackle relocation brackets on lifts over 3 inches
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No worries.
I've spent a lot of time with pencil, and slide rule. ;)
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A slide what?
I have a very accurate 1950's vernier caliper if that counts.
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Alright. I have all of the pictures back into page 4. Will do page 3 next, and hopefully soon.
Spent the day washing, and cleaning the transmission, bellhousing, clutch fork, and clutch cover so I can paint those.
I have managed to get a few more small things done lately, and I had a recent experience with a monster truck industry guy that I'm sure monster truck enthusiasts will appreciate. I'll post up about it when I get more time.
Since there has been some new guys looking in on this thread, and asking questions about the frame build, I wanted to get as many of those pictures back so most of these later updates will make sense.
The picture search has given me a headache. Now its off to find the ibuprofen. Darn google. :(
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I have quite a bit more done on the monster but I want to get a little farther along on the brakes before I post about the progress on that. Since my last update I have been working on the brakes, the engine, and transmission. I'm just about ready to plunk the engine, and transmission in. After I do that I can set the body on. !!YAY!!
I wanted to share with the monster truck guys an experience I had recently.
My son's college was wrapping up its fall baseball season a couple of months ago and on my way home through central Illinois I decided to take a detour to answer an invitation I received from a guy who is, as you might say, "very connected" in the monster truck world. The gentleman's name is Rich Inman. He is the owner of "Concussion Motorsports".
Many may, or may not have heard of Concussion Motorsports but for those who haven't I'll lay out who they are and why I raced to his shop at his invitation. :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ooh8wfJUkns/Vja6RAOWFFI/AAAAAAAAAp8/Aj3SRxCxf7M/s480-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520014.JPG)
https://www.facebook.com/concussionmotorsports/
Several of the trucks they have built include Jesse James' Cadaver, Bigfoot 21, there was a feature article on them in Mud Life magazine showcasing the Perrin Motorsports truck High Maintenance, and they built the most recent USA-1.
If I had to choose a favorite monster truck it would have to be, well, mine of course. :D But if forced to choose which modern racer truck it would be a toss up of the truck Bigfoot 4x4 built for the MLB All-Star game a few years ago. Yes, Bigfoot did build a Chevy monster complete with a big block Chevy engine. Or the latest USA-1 truck.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tnZVubsItv0/Vi1k13PBv6I/AAAAAAAAAc0/q8GXauRSx6A/s512-Ic42/steering%252520mount%252520013.JPG)
The pictures in this post are stolen from Concussion Motorsports' Facebook page or are ones that Rich texted me. They are not my pictures per-se, but are used with his permission.
This is USA-1 being built up in Concussion's shop:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qemT-qQD9ew/Vi1kywG4MBI/AAAAAAAAAck/drrffEn4RXg/s512-Ic42/truck%252520022.JPG)
One of the many things Concussion does is to build their own components. This is a picture of their own axle housings:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_sRGPNr7Upk/Vi1kzmilLyI/AAAAAAAAAcs/ab8iIv6lj_c/s512-Ic42/truck%252520023%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
They add the "champagne glasses" that are compatible with whatever planetary you want to use. I'm not using planetary axles but if I were I know who to contact.
Frame:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zwkAppuo9K4/VjbG9KcAcoI/AAAAAAAAAqw/gAPH1xmb-4M/s512-Ic42/Concussion%252520Frame.jpg)
The following is a picture of an earlier truck built for Perrin Motorsports:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0w_AuhwbfsU/VjbG92Hh8OI/AAAAAAAAAq0/Zxk8ewTtnFk/s512-Ic42/Perrin.jpg)
Bigfoot 21:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fCDQ5yif7mo/VjbG8bP5-MI/AAAAAAAAAqo/TC6Qw4lpFM8/s512-Ic42/Bigfoot%25252021.jpg)
As you can tell their stuff is legit. Nobody in their right mind would do something like this with substandard equipment. Again, this is Bigfoot 21:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sgKstCQR6Bg/VjbM3JVLUCI/AAAAAAAAArE/2lQYtGJnV1Q/s512-Ic42/BF21.jpg)
They were laying the frame for Bigfoot 22 when we were there but as requested we didn't take any pictures.
Now, one other cool morsel. Back in the day Rich worked with Fred Schafer, the guy who was responsible for building the Bearfoot trucks. Keith Tood is family to Fred Schafer and that is where this all connects to my truck.
Watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEiJw_KLkBQ
There are 2 Bearfoot trucks in this video. The first is the 1987 fullsize truck that was known as Bearfoot 4. It was later rebodied as Bearfoot 5 with a 1988 Chevy body after #4 was rolled over in Anaheim, CA. The second truck is the S-10 Little Bearfoot, also seen in the pictures my wife took of Bearfoot 3 that day in 1985 when both trucks were at the Todd's. The S-10 was rolled over and crunched as well. The S-10 "Little Bearfoot" has the distinction of being the first monster truck to roll over, and wouldn't ya' know it, it was a woman driver. ;)
Bearfoot 4:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RQ8Yx6zuBXo/Vja6gihLHXI/AAAAAAAAAqE/fSz0LrZxf00/s512-Ic42/027%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
And Little Bearfoot:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wq9weqtdDew/Vja6rGW_EVI/AAAAAAAAAqM/e0JGsGcvRjE/s512-Ic42/little%252520Bearfoot2.jpg)
Here is the cool connection to that video.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PO57914U4_E/Vi1ktrMkSMI/AAAAAAAAAcc/Xik7ijcqA9A/s512-Ic42/rolling%252520frame%252520026.JPG)
This picture of the 2 doors are from these two Bearfoot trucks in the video. These belong to Rich and he showed them to me. Yup, I was giddy. And no he didn't care to sell them. LOL.
And one last picture that Rich sent me. This the early Bearfoot 1. The photo was taken before Bearfoot went to 5-tons, and 66" terras. In this picture the truck wears 48"s, and 2 1/2 ton military axles. This truck later became Taurus after Fred, and his earliest partner Jack Willman separated their partnership. Sadly this truck was destroyed in an interstate highway accident. But parts of it were used to build a 1987 bodied Taurus.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ej9tsvvKc_Y/Vi1ksg-a-dI/AAAAAAAAAcU/E1fCbZKlpto/s512-Ic42/rolling%252520frame%252520025.JPG)
So anyway. Hopefully I'll be done with my brakes in the next week or so and I can fire off an update on that soon.
Until then-
Engineer
Hmmm.....
If I ever win the lottery I wonder what Rich would say to building me a fleet of trucks like the USA-1 truck. Well at least I'd know who my first phone call would be to. ;D HONEY! what color do you want your monster truck to be? 8)
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Hahaha!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qONRWLLqRGM/VkKuA_aZPUI/AAAAAAAAAs8/i74I4gZc6WM/s512-Ic42/77K30%252520004.JPG?gl=US)
I'll give a little update since it has been awhile.
Bought a new clutch recently. These are getting hard to find. The ceramic button clutches are just about totally out of favor. And the Borg & Beck covers aren't exactly in every Wal-Mart. :(
Going to buy a new flywheel to bolt it all on to.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gq740sR_0HA/VkKtODrwVTI/AAAAAAAAAsI/W_9Ik7FpG7A/s512-Ic42/Latest%252520monster%252520009.JPG?gl=US)
Bought a new one of these:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QrChQ_4Vq2o/VkKtbtfJlvI/AAAAAAAAAss/otYAHhczN_0/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520013.JPG?gl=US)
Thought while I had the engine out I would give the lower end a full inspection, and if need be, bring it up to proper specs.
When I built this engine proper care was given to parts, and assembly. I didn't know what I might find, however, pulling an engine out of a truck that is 12' tall may prove to be daunting. So, I figured now would be the best time to find out what we have.
I have no idea how many miles, or 7,000RPM passes is on this engine, but it is soon going to be 20 years since I first put it together. With that knowledge we'll assume a lot.
Here is the first view of the evidence, clean as a whistle:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uDCwes-gJQg/VkKtPpIpJDI/AAAAAAAAAsw/7tA7hXEeGas/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520001.JPG?gl=US)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KGEoIEBjWZg/VkKtWpppGaI/AAAAAAAAAso/umCf5cj1kBI/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520007.JPG?gl=US)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Eb9zIEWRzAM/VkKtXrnWzEI/AAAAAAAAAr8/-_eshyWH9Ec/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520008.JPG?gl=US)
Piston skirts still have the radial machining. No evidence of scoring.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1sH8GPFldtE/VkKtYSR-rOI/AAAAAAAAAsM/aP5tH20Q5UU/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520009.JPG?gl=US)
This engine hasn't been ran, and has been out of my truck since 2008. Still it has to dump on my shop floor.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Kud9Nyz2GnE/VkKtVZjOMBI/AAAAAAAAAsE/APtLnS1CuMw/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520006.JPG?gl=US)
Mains haven't even wore through the babbit cover on the bearings. Only light wear marks, and nothing you can feel with your finger nail:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_ik7Fd1lh6M/VkKtT25K49I/AAAAAAAAAsk/z_5MF3sCKRY/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520005.JPG?gl=US)
Slick:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ACW0TwLAQvc/VkKtTDx7aqI/AAAAAAAAAtA/oFnMhdEEoVQ/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520004.JPG?gl=US)
Tricks, tricks, and more tricks.....
Or should we say "it's the little things".
In this view you can see the extra hole where I crossed drilled the main bearings the same was Chevy did on their L88 427, and LS6 454. This way the rod bearing get oiled all 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation not just when the oil hole for the connecting rod is exposed to the upper bearing insert with the groove in it:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EMziHF38LJo/VkKtR5j5PUI/AAAAAAAAArk/cUV5ZXd3SuQ/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520003.JPG?gl=US)
This view shows a standard rear main cap where the oil pump bolts on and how it is machined for the oil hole through the casting.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8QIAGyCJXp4/VkKtav4TQDI/AAAAAAAAAtI/XplQ3Q1wNN8/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520012.JPG?gl=US)
Now here is mine. I smoothed the area going into the oil port so that we could limit turbulence as the oil starts it flow through the engine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4pOMNl_vRgg/VkKtZUOBh2I/AAAAAAAAAsU/0wJvUP1VJ5k/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520011.JPG?gl=US)
My L88 Corvette oil pan with windage tray, sump well, and trap door:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AJz-2uADxWw/VkKtQzPhLXI/AAAAAAAAAs0/1ksOiIIHM7M/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520002.JPG?gl=US)
Repainted to look sexy:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZFcMOkhvGIw/VkKtc5Z9SXI/AAAAAAAAAtM/zTmxMDqDZVg/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520017.JPG?gl=US)
When I built this engine I used a 2-bolt main block, and a cast iron crank........the engine originally came with a steel crank but I pulled it out to save for a different build. Many folks said the iron would never hold up. Well I didn't tell them I had the crank ground .030" on the mains, and .040" on the rods.....the max. LOL! ;D Smaller bearing journals have the benefit of less surface area and a smaller oil film to act as drag on the rotating crankshaft. The loss in surface area is made up by boosting the operating pressure of the oil pump. (pressure x area = force)
Anyway, go-fast theories aside, when I inspected the bearing clearances I found the rods to be .0015". Perfect. And the mains all checked out at .003". A little loose, but IIRC (it has been 20 years) I set the engine up with .0025" mains, so .0005" wear is not even remotely something I'm concerned with. :D
I did put ARP bolts in the factory 3/8" rods. Other than that the WHOLE bottom end is a factory 1973 Chevrolet C20 pick-up engine. I guarantee if there would have been a weak link in this engine I would have, or should have found it.
The L88 Corvette oil pump had NO signs of wear. Only some polishing of the machine marks on the pump cover.
If anything is out of spec it is the crankshaft endplay, and rod side clearance. Not worried though, that only serves to oil the flat tappet, solid lifter cam. Which still looks brand new.
This engine has only seen Valvoline VR1 20w50 racing oil (even in the winter ;)) and AC Delco oil filters. Can't think of any reason to try anything else.
So at the end of the day a new rear main seal, new oil pan gasket, and some new o-rings to seal the dipstick tube and we are ready.
As soon as my new 454 flywheel is here I can put the transmission on the back of the engine and set it in the frame. While I was working on the engine I have been cleaning, cleaning, and cleaning some more on the bellhousing, and preparing the transmission for paint.
Hopefully I can get that done soon. Going to work on the brake caliper brackets some more tomorrow and maybe an update on that phase of this build can follow in the near future. :)
Stay tuned,
Engineer
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Since my last update I have bought a new flywheel specific to a 454. Before I was using a 427 flywheel and a balance weight. Just never was comfotable with that hokey setup so I went with the way Chevrolet intended it to be.
Spent a couple of hours cleaning the bell housing. After I degreased it as best I could I had a local body shop glass bead it for me. Now It looks like NOS. :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b5nnWdvDkOs/Vk0wUKykwSI/AAAAAAAAAuk/ViamBo3qH34/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520011.JPG)
I had bought a new clutch fork for my slipper clutch but was going to go back with OE. Well my old OE has a flaw in it that won't pass muster, so I'll be using the slipper clutch fork after all. See if you the viewer can spot the reason I don't want to use this piece:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n1e3JUVJMJ4/Vk0wUwdJViI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/CkA_1ayVlMo/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520012.JPG)
This most recent weekend I had some excellent weather so I spent most of it sandblasting, and painting while I still could. I did the brake caliper brackets, (more on those in a later post) the engine accesory brackets, and the air tank. I didn't take many pictures because I was in a rush for time. Here are a couple of pictures of the air tank.
With epoxy primer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q6qoKmOS8fc/Vk0wSpb6x7I/AAAAAAAAAuc/pqjnpcDHU14/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520010.JPG)
Painted sitting in the frame:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U1KrRPK9H-o/Vk0wV_QjgPI/AAAAAAAAAus/Vu1WVNN4XAY/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520020.JPG)
After I put the engine all back together I decided to give the oil pump a spin while I rotated the crankshaft. I figured I would run the lash on the valves now so it didn't have to be done sitting way up in the air. So I rolled the engine over at the same time I primed the oil system just to make sure all of the cavities were well oiled.
With just a 3/8" drill the oil pump put out 75psi. 8)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tRrR7DCOpNI/Vk0wRvqJ18I/AAAAAAAAAuo/twjCMnKyaOQ/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520003.JPG)
I haven't touched the body in eons but I finally installed the windshield lock strip and painted and reinstalled the windshield wipers. I wasn't going to use windshield wipers on the puller but now that this project has become a body restoration I wanted to get it back to factory appearing equipment. There is no wiper motor, only the wiper blades, arms, and regulator placed in the park position.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UBtLRfMBmYs/Vk0wQyTcoZI/AAAAAAAAAuY/Z_tcYrhIdPc/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520002.JPG)
And I stole these following pictures from google, so if these pictures belong to anyone, well they weren't copyrighted so.....
During the puller project I took out the factory dash to lighten the truck up as much as possible. I have an awesome idea to go back to a "custom", "factory" type interior. My oldest son provided me with a set of charcoal colored S10 Blazer seats. The next step is to find a factory grey dash from a 1995~2000 model GMT-400 full size truck.
I think these look awesome. Whoever did these two are to be commended. Especially the bottom one.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CO7Db5uJI1Q/Vk0wPrPLodI/AAAAAAAAAt4/YB52YUUxtfA/s512-Ic42/77K30%252520002.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jr9BgHHao3Y/Vk0wPIEaaoI/AAAAAAAAAug/hDM1BuJCcSQ/s512-Ic42/77K30%252520001.JPG)
Almost done with the brakes. Just finishing up with painting everything then I'll post how I did those. And that will be worth tuning in for. Right now I am at the pinnacle of multitasking. I would love to start, and then see a task to completion before moving on to another. But like in the case of this weekend's painting I have to pull together parts that I won't need for a few weeks so that they won't be waiting for warm weather to fix up. One benefit to doing this is so I can keep moving forward after the bad weather sets in.
Au revoir,
Engineer
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Good progress, your right about the dash from the GMT 400 swap, that looks pretty good. The air tank looks nice.
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Copyright is a federal law of the United States that protects original works of authorship. A work of authorship includes literary, written, dramatic, artistic, musical and certain other types of works.
Copyright attaches as soon as the original work is created, and applies to both published and unpublished works. As soon as you type words, click the shutter on your camera (or, for many of you, hit the home button on your iPhone), apply paint to canvas or paper or lay down tracks for your next hit, you’ve got a copyright (with some exceptions).
Copyright is an automatic right and does not require the author to file special paperwork, as is the case for trademark and patent. Registration is required to enforce the rights, but as a matter of right, an author is not required to register anything to get the right to use the “circle c,” showing the work is copyrighted.
Fair use
the fair use of a copyrighted work, including such use by reproduction in copies or phonorecords or by any other means specified by that section, for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching (including multiple copies for classroom use), scholarship, or research, is not an infringement of copyright.
with "fair use" youre ok to use someones picture as long as it falls into the mentioned category/s.
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So does that mean that everytime we make a post or start a build thread, the author has copyright? So I have copyright over this post that I just typed?
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in a way yes, but in another maybe. general rule is if you write something or take a picture you own the copyright. BUT you know the terms and conditions agreement you agreed to when you joined? (i forgot them so have to get chris to verify that) well Chris is liable for the things you post since its his website. if you want to say "hey this is mine stop sharing it" he doesnt have to remove it. but if he doesnt want to post your "stuff" then he not forced to. but if someone come on this site and steals a post you posted word for word chris or you can contact that form moderator and say "hey this is mine i wish for you to take it down". also think about how moderators can edit your post. if you truly have a copyright then how can someone change things on a post?
BUT
copyright does not protect facts but does protect fixed original expressions. this is how you can share a book (original expressions) online via a torrent but you cant download it legally. the book is protected but the words in it cant be copyrighted. so if you rip all those words up (like a torrent does) then your ok. but if someone tried to put those words back together (like a torrent does) then thats the illegal part cause youre making a book that has a copyright protection. then your ISP is also liable for what you do online just like chris is liable for what you post on here. they have certain steps they have to take to protect themselves.
this is from yahoo's T&C "posters grant the company the royalty-free, perpetual, irrevocable, non-exclusive and fully sub-licensable right and licence to use, reproduce, modify, adapt, publish, translate, create derivative works from, distribute, perform and display such Content (in whole or part) worldwide and/or to incorporate it in other works in any form, media, or technology now known or later developed. There's more useful stuff in there about indemnifying the company as well, which is also worth examining " im sure ours looks something like that
EDIT:im not a lawyer so take this post as nothing more than an opinion
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Makes sense.
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I figure anything you put out on the interwebs, Facebook, Twitter, discussion forums, etc. is by default "public property". It is, after all in the public domain.
I have seen pictures taken by me, from this very thread, in other places on the net, not posted by me but others who have a like interest in the subject matter. I have no problem with that. Heck I even consider it a badge of honor to have material that others have a respect for. HOWEVER, IF I FIND MATERIAL FROM THIS THREAD ANYWHERE ELSE AND SOMEONE ELSE IS ATTEMPTING TO TAKE CREDIT FOR IT, I WILL BE IN CONTACT WITH THE ADMINISTRATION OF THAT PARTICULAR INFORMATION OUTLET. And if I think it's a problem I can cleanse this thread of all of its content and stop it that way.
Anytime I have posted in this thread, photos that are not original to me I always make mention of that. Some pictures that I have used contain watermarks that identify the original owner. Even the pictures my wife took are identified as such. I have nothing to gain by taking credit for what others have done. Anytime I add content that is not originally mine it is done only to enrich the overall subject of this thread and it will be noted as such. Four of the six highlighted exceptions Irish posted about under the fair use exception apply here. Criticism, comment, teaching, and research.
In summary, I want to keep the invitation wide open for everyone to share this build with me. There have been enough people brow beating me to join Facebook so I am contemplating starting a Facebook page to parallel the posts in this thread. Anyone, and everyone is welcome to comment and share my build. If I didn't intend to share my build with 7 billion anonymous people I wouldn't have posted about it in a way for those 7 billion people to have access to it.
My next post should have an update on my drive line brakes.
Join us won't you?
Yours Truly,
Johnny Dollar.
Er, um, I mean Engineer.
And I should add......
There is no business venture here. There is no intent for anyone to profit monetarily from the establishment of this thread.
The sole purpose of this thread is to inform. It is intended to be a database of learning, knowledge, information and discussion in support thereof. Any, and all content is only considered to be a reinforcement of the subject matter.
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not saying anything you come up with, but pictures and write ups taken by or created by you are copyrighted and belong to you. even chris the owner cant pass it off as his own. if someone steels anything from here and makes it their own then they are infringing on your copyright. now since you uploaded all this stuff to this site and say "take my stuff down" and think chris is required by law to take it down. but if you yourself go back and remove everything then its ok. that being said i dont think chris isnt that type of person and would remove anything you ask.
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I feel like I should be signing a stack of papers and faxing them to you Eng..
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lol you know sometimes i feel like i should go to collage and change my carrier. either in psychology or criminal law
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It's not me I swear!
Blame the lawyers!
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If you don't want to join Facebook, don't let people brow beat you into joining. Sometimes I ask myself, "What am I doing here?" Or I say, "I should just delete this..."
But, I have a girlfriend and friends you post alot and co-workers who put stuff on there, so I kinda gotta stay. Plus, Popular Hot Rodding and Summit Racing are always posting cool stuff on there that I enjoy reading.
But really, if you don't want to join, don't.
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Ok back to Monster trucks.
I'd do that second image for interior you posted in a heart beat but this teuck is so sentimental to my wife I can't even get rid of the old distorted rear view mirror.
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Well here is the brakes update I have been blabbering on about for the last couple of weeks.
The 5-ton military axles originally used drum brakes, but as I said in an earlier post I had no other plans but to dump the original drums and go with a driveline disc brake set up. The drums, backing plates, brake shoes, and lines added up to 300# per axle. Removing these would save 600lbs on the final curb weight of this truck minus what ever the discs weighed.
I originally wanted to use all O.E. GM equipment but I just couldn't find a suitable rotor. So I bought a pair of the aftermarket racer type that you would find in a kit for a disc conversion to an older car that came only with drum brakes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SofX76J3VtI/VlUSfB4VJAI/AAAAAAAAAv8/4Mb0nHvf7i0/s512-Ic42/more%252520stuff%252520007.JPG)
Once I decided which rotor I would use I then set about deciding which differential flange would work best for me. There is a big bearing, and a small bearing side to the 5-tons. I elected to use the small bearing side because I felt that I could make a more simple bracket. And simple is good.
There are many aftermarket companies that make driveline brakes but I elected to design my own. After measuring and testing with an original 1977 K10 caliper I made a plan for a local company to cut my bracket out on their laser cutting machine. Keep in mind that I have farmed out very little on this build. I have done about 99% of what you see in this thread all in house. And I could have done these brackets in house but it would have taken me hours to cut and grind it all to my satisfaction.
The following picture is the small bearing retainer off of my spare 5-ton rear axle, and the bracket cut to my 1D plan.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zk1vEMMkVIA/VlUSbZURr_I/AAAAAAAAAv4/b2KPdDVelwM/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520010.JPG)
After I clearanced the back of the bracket so it would fit the cast radius of the bearing retainer I bolted it to the axle to start the mocking up phase:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--POok8mFeT0/VlUSd40k4LI/AAAAAAAAAvQ/tQ5POjDk0S0/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520016.JPG)
Next I drilled and tapped holes in the companion flange so I could bolt the rotor to it. The 8 holes that the driveshaft bolt to are of a different circle diameter so I elected to drill new ones, and as I will show later, the front axle will need to still be able to accept the driveshaft.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7VJpgSd9qNI/VlUSxABNLsI/AAAAAAAAAwI/6Csjx9weUCo/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520013.JPG)
Rotor bolted on:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1Y7KWe-riVg/VlUSZ0t5DaI/AAAAAAAAAu8/EbIuWD1DgA0/s512-Ic42/Latest%252520monster%252520013.JPG)
And the mock up. Rotor, caliper, and brake pads all fit and complement each other like brass and strings in an orchestra.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_el27zFnk7Y/VlUScnUkdfI/AAAAAAAAAvU/00iTjjKcdBY/s512-Ic42/MonsterEngine%252520015.JPG)
Me, being the overachiever that I am, decided that 6) 3/8" bolts are enough to hold this brake caliper, and the factory backing plate, and spindle on a factory K10 steering knuckle, but would never be good enough to hold the same caliper on my custom bracket. So I added an additional reinforcement to the top of the bracket using the top cover bolts on the differential just to satisfy any concern that there could have been more.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D7hO9nlaPmc/VlUSprqbf4I/AAAAAAAAAvc/6i_jOeDCEP0/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520004.JPG)
Drilled, and welded on:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SdvkdCJUnTA/VlUSqwgri1I/AAAAAAAAAvk/LBdmC94_60s/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520005.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VL_wDGcd2p8/VlUSsN0tJtI/AAAAAAAAAvs/NNeN8Ch_nbY/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520006.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yZTTDivhsVQ/VlUStI72aHI/AAAAAAAAAxU/RM8sQFr3Wbo/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520007.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tuBF3q1Xm-0/VlUSu-64r_I/AAAAAAAAAwU/mKrjNrRiOlg/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520008.JPG)
A squirt of epoxy primer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-amQr5Cjxgjw/VlUSv_fHikI/AAAAAAAAAwk/m1oGrTRSjpc/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520009.JPG)
Then I permanently mounted it to the axle. Torqueing the bolts to 45 ft/lbs, of course.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8JpxKrtanJ4/VlUSyGQ_IHI/AAAAAAAAAws/J8JbaPS8fjw/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520014.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LrAKe61ffXc/VlUSzGKgOwI/AAAAAAAAAxE/_Ztf_wWj2-o/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520015.JPG)
Bought pads for a 3/4-ton:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wXWdj6QzUWo/VlUS1BWgRFI/AAAAAAAAAxI/C0KAkBiCgIg/s512-Ic42/Brakes%252520019.JPG)
Then I put it all together.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rGtbVFxd_0s/VlUS2KgLkDI/AAAAAAAAAxA/YHQ6AUeSMT8/s512-Ic42/good%252520stuff%252520003.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cXBRmqhapA4/VlUS3D0cCFI/AAAAAAAAAxM/jZCjLps8Aus/s512-Ic42/good%252520stuff%252520004.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MlVy8JnyRSQ/VlUS4L_CmBI/AAAAAAAAAww/4FWEHEr5xd0/s512-Ic42/good%252520stuff%252520005.JPG)
Painted the bolt heads:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EM19HQgjTHo/VlUS5aNNmDI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/AR7iWFPBc6Y/s512-Ic42/good%252520stuff%252520006.JPG)
This is the flange that the front driveshaft will bolt to. As such it will need the holes for that purpose. You can seen now, why I elected to drill new holes to mount the rotor to.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VSBMKJ3m8DU/VlUS6Zo-NmI/AAAAAAAAAw8/rSUwyhYrBuk/s512-Ic42/good%252520stuff%252520007.JPG)
I still need to have a spacer made so I can put it between the caliper piston and the inboard brake pad. The 1/2-ton GM rotor is approximately 1.25" thick. My go-fast racer rotors are .81" thick. I'll need the spacer to make up the difference. Once I have those made and installed the brakes will be complete.
I am real happy with the way the brakes turned out. I'm considering going to market with these brackets. I don't know how the rest of the industry does their's but I am real happy with these. Will need to make them operational, and test them before I attempt to market them to the mega/mud truck crowd. Brakes are a pretty critical component on a truck capable of running over most everyday traffic.
'Til later,
Engineer.
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Pure freaking genuis! I love it! Awesome man, pure awesomeness! Really nice job.
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I hope you are keeping a list of paint codes because I feel like you are going to use this s thing for a little more than you think. At some point that pedal is going to be mashed with the wheels point at something you would have never considered at this point in the build.
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what are you doing for a parking brake? transfercase driveline brake?(similar to 2.5 and 5 ton military, and old jeeps)
looking good, I would have done that extra brace too, was the bracket 3/8" plate steel?
I personally would have opted for thicker brakes, but given your design and planning in the rest of the build I'm sure you have everything well thought out.
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Nice setup!
I dont know if there is a difference in the Caliper, but most of the guys I know that run 2 1/2 ton or 5 tons use GMT400 3/4 ton calipers, some even use the factory rotors.
Youve got a clean setup , are you running the rotors on the front side of the toploader, or the inboard? It looks like your running it on the inboard side, but I cant tell for sure. Ive seen it done both ways, what made you decide to run them inboard?
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Pure freaking genuis! I love it! Awesome man, pure awesomeness! Really nice job.
:)
I hope you are keeping a list of paint codes because I feel like you are going to use this s thing for a little more than you think. At some point that pedal is going to be mashed with the wheels point at something you would have never considered at this point in the build.
Everything has been logged. All paint codes. Part numbers. Every schematic. Every drawing. All math and figures. I'm kinda weird that way.
As far as the mud......nope. Forget it. However, the ideas are swirling for a play toy after this build is done. My oldest son is building a 1984 K-10 stepside. I just found a set of 2 1/2 ton Rockwells for his truck. If I build another truck it too will probably have 2 1/2 tons and 48"~54" rubber. I want to build an S-10 real bad.
what are you doing for a parking brake? transfercase driveline brake?(similar to 2.5 and 5 ton military, and old jeeps)
looking good, I would have done that extra brace too, was the bracket 3/8" plate steel?
I personally would have opted for thicker brakes, but given your design and planning in the rest of the build I'm sure you have everything well thought out.
Parking brake will probably be on the output of the transmission. There are gobs of SM465s with parking brakes out there so there won't be any fabrication just bolt on.
And yes, the bracket is 3/8" thick material.
Nice setup!
I dont know if there is a difference in the Caliper, but most of the guys I know that run 2 1/2 ton or 5 tons use GMT400 3/4 ton calipers, some even use the factory rotors.
Youve got a clean setup , are you running the rotors on the front side of the toploader, or the inboard? It looks like your running it on the inboard side, but I cant tell for sure. Ive seen it done both ways, what made you decide to run them inboard?
GMT-400 calipers are GM D52 calipers same as mine, or really similar. My brakes are on the inboard side as you say, the bracket is simpler, and it keeps anything off the front of the front axle, which should give a cleaner overall appearance to the truck.
Rant:
I don't know what it is about machine shops these days. I can't find anybody wanting to do custom work. I don't think anybody can do old school machining anymore. If it can't be plugged into a CNC machine and then they make you 1,000 copies forget it. I'm sorry but if you operate that way you aren't a machine shop you are simply a factory. So stop calling yourself a machine shop.
I recently submitted plans to a couple of buildings with machine tools in them and the words "machine shop" on the outside for the piston spacer I need so my calipers will work with my rotors. Most told me they wouldn't fool with it. Another submitted a bid for $400.00. $400.00 for $20 in materials and an hour's labor? I'm sorry but that is just an insult. I can buy a cheap lathe for $400 and do it myself.......... Well I made my own sandblaster........ Might be time to search the want ads for a Bridgeport and a lathe.
Rant over.
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I've quietly followed your build thread and it has been outstanding.
On the machine shop issue, I'm going to throw this out... Correct me if I'm wrong, but you're in eastern MO? If that's the case, maybe a friend or a friend of a friend knows some retired machinists from McDonnell-Douglas or Chrysler. I say this since I grew up in an area with a GM plant, General Dynamics and LTV and have had assistance for custom machining in a retiree's garage which had a lathe and other tools of the trade. On the plus side, they were as interested in the project as I was (maybe more) and did it for their own enjoyment.
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I know a couple of guys with hobby machine shops and that is probably the route I'll end up going. There is one guy who has allowed me to do some cutting on his bandsaw. He won't take a dime for it either. I'm never easy with that. I know how much these machines cost and prefer to pay even if it is a token amount....... I just don't see the need to go to the extreme the other way. Lol!
In a perfect world I'd buy whatever I need when I need it. I passed on a Bridgeport for $2,000.00 a few years ago. I kick myself constantly for doing it.
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I know how much these machines cost and prefer to pay even if it is a token amount....... I just don't see the need to go to the extreme the other way. Lol!
In a perfect world I'd buy whatever I need when I need it. I passed on a Bridgeport for $2,000.00 a few years ago. I kick myself constantly for doing it.
I very much understand and agree with what you're saying. Whichever route you do choose, I'm sure looking forward to more posts...
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Here is my latest update.
The weather has been outstanding lately and I haven't passed up the opportunity to work on the rig. Last weekend I made a last minute, or spur of the moment decision to sandblast, and paint. Even though this weekend was warmer last weekend was drier and all worked out really well.
Sandblasted goodness:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aFXs13nHwnU/Vm4RKC7Rp_I/AAAAAAAAAxk/8mCneRtvD-0/s512-Ic42/BlueSilver%252520004.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NYlJlzNlr3g/Vm4RLU5L9MI/AAAAAAAAAxs/GTCObQDSlBQ/s512-Ic42/BlueSilver%252520005.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r0yh0TUv5d4/Vm4RMnrFDDI/AAAAAAAAAx0/j1arnPZy5Lg/s512-Ic42/BlueSilver%252520006.JPG)
Everything got the basic black with epoxy primer underwear except for the transmission and I chose to use a grey cast iron engine paint over the epoxy on it.
Here is the massive M-54 pintle hitch. I wasn't at the point where I was going to paint this but since I had my sandblaster out I took the opportunity to get this as well. Sorry if the picture is bad but my lighting wasn't up to par. Eventually all of the bolt heads will be black as well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YgARO-fjdUU/Vm4RNvtnQFI/AAAAAAAAAx8/0IViwGJlLR8/s512-Ic42/BlueSilver%252520007.JPG)
And then after the transmission paint dried it was time to put all of the goodies together and drop them into the frame:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ni96KduJjJk/Vm4RQOMsFFI/AAAAAAAAAyM/W5JvnlSO-8c/s512-Ic42/BlueSilver%252520009.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lBOl5ytLvxc/Vm4RRRtGwfI/AAAAAAAAAyU/fLtfaZmC2sQ/s512-Ic42/BlueSilver%252520010.JPG)
Because my engine hoist would just barely raise the engine high enough I elected to use the old military wheels as shop roll-arounds. So, now we officially have a rolling chassis. :) Why I did this was so I could lift the engine then roll the frame up to it instead of trying not to topple my shop hoist with the engine 6 feet off of the ground.
Here is a good view of my barenaked bell housing and the cast iron painted transmission. I have sort of failed in taking step x step detail photos but I was more focused on getting to this point while the weather is still good.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FzcfPgVPS2g/Vm4RSrb8g6I/AAAAAAAAAyc/-t1Kw4bnMxA/s512-Ic42/BlueSilver%252520011.JPG)
A good view of the engine with many of the detail parts added on:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-krcvtUFhsf0/Vm4RT0Yib1I/AAAAAAAAAyk/pDC_V6oPBmg/s512-Ic42/BlueSilver%252520012.JPG)
Also, and I can post pictures later on of this, but I have been working on the brake lines, and I have the clutch linkage mounted. I have started making custom aluminum brackets to hold the brake line to the frame. I just couldn't find anything presentable that would do the trick and be affordable, so I will make my own. ;) More on that later.
So, now, I am at the point I can set the body on. However, I am going to wait to do that until later. The reason being is that I have changed my mind yet again........call it what you will.....hehe. As mentioned earlier in this thread I was planning on going with a 4x4 modified class type puller transfer case. Well I am not going that direction any longer. Instead I am using a Rockwell T-136-27 transfer case that came in the M-35 2 1/2 ton military 6x6s. This is the predominate transfer case the original monster trucks used back in the day.
This isn't my case, but it is an exact model of the one I have bought. I don't have a picture of mine per se because I still need to go pick mine up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k2l5owgHOgk/Vm4Y_0Iq79I/AAAAAAAAAy0/xo-ZYxwiVc4/s512-Ic42/T_136_27.jpg)
The main reasons for doing this are because I wanted to be able to select 4x2. The puller case doesn't allow the user to do this. The -27 model is an air shift type. It allows you to shift into 4x4 and back to 4x2 with the flip of a switch. I'll have on-board air so this will work out excellent for me. The T-136 also has a high, and a 2:1 low range. As I said earlier this case will keep me in the old school class. And the final, and another BIG reason is the price. I bought my Rockwell case for about $2,500.00 less than what I would have spent on the 4x4 sled puller transfer case.
Now the drawbacks..... 1) My frame was set up to accomodate the sled puller case. I'll have to modify the frame slightly. That is the main reason I am holding off mounting the body. It will make mounting the transfer case a bit easier if the body is not in the way. 2) The sled puller cases typically drop the driveline centers around 12". The Rockwell only drops 10.5". Still not a big deal. The 5-ton axles are "top loaders" so this inherently reduces drive line angle just by their design. 3) Weight. The Rockwell case is about 400# more than any of the aluminum case sled puller models.
Yokes will have to be bought for either case so that is a wash.
Jason S-
A guy I work with has an uncle with a lathe who lives about 1 mile from me. I will be building my caliper piston spacers myself. This isn't really a priority right now. I have the brakes all done except for that and I am wanting to focus on the tranfer case so I can finally get the body mounted. And who knows, I understand the lathe may be for sale so my caliper piston spacers may be a "test drive".
'Til next time,
Eng
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Looks like you're making great progress! Its a shame that you've got that much trouble finding a good machine shop there, I've got a few of them to choose from in close proximity. The biggest problem is, the ones that are open for business at the moment close at 4-4:30, and I'm usually in my shop sometime between 7 pm and 3 am.
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I love this build!
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As I alluded to in a previous post I was able to secure an M-35 2 1/2 ton army 6x6 transfer case. The transfer case that I have is a Rockwell T-136-27. It is the preferred air shift type.
Sorry for the delay in updating this thread. I have had the transfer case for about a month now. Other things have "cut the line" so to speak, but hopefully I can get back to this project.
These are pics as I bought it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ye4SB560KZM/VpMG2MXI8tI/AAAAAAAAAzM/fkbAdy-_L74/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520001.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9spGse6xvs8/VpMG33I_yfI/AAAAAAAAAzU/BlGXK3sgSdw/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520002.JPG)
This is it after I removed all of the "for shipping purposes only" junk that a monster truck transfer case doesn't need.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OoOhps0jk0E/VpMG5GM1uVI/AAAAAAAAAzc/yHLStzcdT9c/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520005.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WEdVLoQdAgA/VpMG66o4w0I/AAAAAAAAAzk/A6gVyVaQHvI/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520006.JPG)
On the rear output shaft is a driveline drum parking brake. (see top most photograph) I gave it an honorable discharge and set about removing the bracket from the rear output shaft bearing retainer. Probably won't go through the trouble of removing the 1/2" alignment dowel but the bracket is gone and the bearing retainer is cleaned up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zjUpYLHKbs8/VpMHCETmD6I/AAAAAAAAA0M/hplhBftT70o/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520013.JPG)
Now my focus is rebuilding the transfer case crossmember, and building mounts.
Frame prior to modification:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DYJoYQzm40o/VpMG8NzUtXI/AAAAAAAAAzs/ENbx9NLggHI/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520009.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tUxVawvYm_8/VpMG-a4fyyI/AAAAAAAAAz0/d8N_G03IAKQ/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520010.JPG)
Frame post modification.
I had to remove the rear cab mount crossmember. No worries. This part of the frame was massively overbuilt so the crossmember being removed has not weakend the frame in any way.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WzOAKr4uSvU/VpMHA-z8j9I/AAAAAAAAA0E/X0qrzggL4EY/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520012.JPG)
In the above view you can see that I added two holes in the square tubing. These are for bolts that will go directly into the top of the transfer case. I have made a new, flat plate to go on top of the transfer case that will allow me to bolt the top of the transfer case directly to the frame crossmember.
The next view shows the spot on the transfer case where this is. The two bolts closest to the shift rail goes in the spot for the two holes in the square tubing:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-htuFqbk-PrA/VpMHDT8uqOI/AAAAAAAAA0U/ZlNTJwqxC5g/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520017.JPG)
The hole in the rear is for the shift rail poppet ball, follower, and spring. I'm eliminating the poppet mechanisim. Instead I will be locking the transfer case into low range by using just a 7/16" bolt sharpened, and cut to length to lock into the poppet groove on the high/low range shift rail. Low range is 1.96:1 in this transfer case and is just a smidgen too high for my tastes, but not too high that I can't live with it. However high range is WAY too high so I'll lock it into low range so no reliability issues can arise from it jumping out of gear.
The following photograph is the additional bracket added to the rear of the square tube that will serve as the location of the two rear bolts in the top of the transfer case.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-69RcRbCiS-w/VpMHUY6c_xI/AAAAAAAAA0s/zmZUh1WUwSs/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520016.JPG)
Sorry for the poor lighting. The two smaller holes are for the mount. The larger hole in the center is to give access to the top of the transfer case so a breather line can be added to vent the transfer case. Not yet added in the above photograph will be 1/4" flat strut bracing to further stiffen up the mounting bracket.
The next picture shows all of the bracketry I have fabricated so far. These will be added down low on the transfer case to fully secure it into the frame by using the center support that the anchored ends of the suspension torque bars will mount to.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ex55rqQJBOE/VpMHExvw_3I/AAAAAAAAA0c/kGVpXwumQ6M/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520018.JPG)
The top of the transfer case only uses 4) 3/8" bolts. Even using grade 8 hardware these are woefully inadequate for nothing more than to hold the transfer case in the truck while the real mounts are bolted into place.
In the above photo the flat plate, the angle, the tube and the three hole square blocks will be used to make the real mounts. The factory mounts for the transfer case provided provisions for 2) 5/8" bolts on the righthand side of the transfer case, and 4) 5/8" bolts on the left. If you refer to the top 4 photographs in this post you can see these holes. These will be used with the stronger hardware shown here to firmly mount the transfer case. More bracing needs to be built, but I'll have to wait until the transfer case is in the truck to do the final fitment.
Again I have changed my mind. Originally I was planning on using 2) 1610 series driveshafts between the puller transfer case and the axles. The plan was for two equal length driveshafts. Instead I'll be using one of the 1610 shafts I have in the front, and the lone 1710 shaft I have in the rear. Since I am now going to have a "part time" 4x4 the heavier shaft will work better in the rear when 4x2 is selected and all of the driving load is placed on it.
The following picture shows my three driveshafts. The miniscule 1350 will be updated to 1410 on the transfer case end. The upper green driveshaft is the 1610, the lower is the 1710.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4i-ffpg1XuY/VpMG_yNkEzI/AAAAAAAAAz8/E9Tx7NSDXpo/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520011.JPG)
As I alluded to in my previous post, I can set the body on at any time, but I decided to wait so as to keep the body from interfering with the transfer case fab. My finding the transfer case, and deciding to use it at this moment in time was sort of an accident. However in the end it will all work out for the better. The transfer case was the final piece of the puzzle. I now have everything I need to complete this truck. Well, that is aside from small incidentals like wiring, plumbing, a fuel cell, and the like. But the major (and most costly) components are here so the finishing of this build is mostly about finding the time to do it.
Updates as I get a chance.
Check back often.
-Eng
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Here is the latest sub-project I have been working on.
One of the things that any ground up build will need is custom wiring and plumbing. I decided to mount the brake lines, fuel lines, wiring, and all of the air brake tubing that will serve to vent the gearboxes on the outside of the frame to avoid exposing each of them to the heat from the exhaust that will be present on the inside of the frame.
Here is what I came up with to run my brake lines. The brake lines theirselves have some sort of greenish anti-corrosion coating on them so no need to paint. I didn't like the idea of using those flat metal clamps much like the factory uses, and since the plumbing is going to be visible I needed something acceptable to the eye. So, after some thought I came up with this. I took .25"x1" flat aluminum stock and cut it into several 1.5" lengths. I stacked two of these to make a clamp and then drilled a hole through the side that runs parallel with the pairs of flat stock so the brake line has a path to run through. Next was the mounting hole that comes through from the face of the bracket. I then 45'd the top corners so the brackets would match my spring hangers and the front cab mounts. Then it was sanding, and sanding, and filing, and sanding, and polishing, and sheesh.......
But in the end I think they look pretty good. Sort of gives it an aerospace look. I guess. In some way.....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jivnItcXkYM/VpmWN5HkgkI/AAAAAAAAA1I/T_-4f4RUfVI/s512-Ic42/brake%252520line2.jpg)
And as with the rest of this build eventually the bolt heads will be painted black.
In this view is the front brake plumbing. The brass T will be supplied brake fluid from the master cylinder from here. Plumbing this will be done after the cab is set on. The line from the master cylinder will enter the T from the right as it is viewed in this picture.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U7Gr4oe8CIM/VpmWM20OkiI/AAAAAAAAA1A/TTuEfBEvTCE/s512-Ic42/brake%252520line.jpg)
To keep things clean I drilled and tapped the frame to bolt the brackets to. My tap was getting dull and I got a little forceful. So, I set about braking off my tap in the hole just in front of the center support. DAS MACHEN SIE!!!!! $#@&!!!. $#@&!!!. $#@&!!!. Ok, jump back, eat a salad. Lets work the problem. Luckily I was using a 2 flute tap and the chunk broke right out with only a center punch and the help from our good friend, Mr. Flogging Iron, with no damage to the threads. I then used my other 5/16"-18 tap to finish. But it was dull as well, so I will wait until the tool fairy brings me another new tap to finish running the rest of the rear brake line.
The brake line will be the only thing on the left hand side of the frame. I will do something similar to the right hand side with the battery cable, fuel line, wiring, and the 1/4" air brake tubing that I plan to use to vent the rear axle, front axle, transmission, and transfer case. The one thing I have to consider is keeping the positive battery cable away from the fuel line. In the event of a massive starter failure that would cause the positive battery cable to ignite (I already had this happen to my '77 right after I bought it waaay back when....) I don't want the fire from the cable to be in the vicinity of the fuel line.
We will see what tomorrow brings but I have plans at this point to put the transfer case in and start on the mounting brackets for it.
Guten Tag er, um, guten Abend mein damen, und herren.
-Eng
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Looks good. That was a great idea. Your swearing in German made me laugh so hard I started coughing!
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I was able to finish running my rear brake line on Saturday. I also accomplished installing the transfer case. As of right now I do not have any of the mounts built. It is only being held in by the 4) 3/8" bolts on the top that held the top cover in place.
Here is a couple good views of the case setting in it's proper place in the middle of the frame.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qLgYDgkp8ho/Vpw9gpb1d2I/AAAAAAAAA14/z_7GEpDgcfg/s512-Ic42/tcase8.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sSZzqT2OQuA/Vpw9iWWzdkI/AAAAAAAAA2A/YRoAFOmWEwg/s512-Ic42/tcase.jpg)
Here is a good rear view. You can see the place where it mounts at the top. Also visible is the hole for the transfer case vent:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tmenI_6zNg8/Vpw9crAT9wI/AAAAAAAAA1g/JMVBhpidpOc/s512-Ic42/tcase5.jpg)
I put the transmission driveshaft in it to see where we were with our angles. We are right at the limit, but this isn't a street truck so I am confident we are good to go.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M7ReLKQMBmI/Vpw9eIbTyaI/AAAAAAAAA1o/eO0OlAPRS-E/s512-Ic42/tcase6.jpg)
The lower (transfer case) u-joint, and yoke will be cut off and replaced with a 1410 series unit. I can find 1410 input yokes for the Rockwell T-136 but the 1350s have been discontinued.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_Uk8CCUAcvg/Vpw9fFFQ1QI/AAAAAAAAA1w/agBUCbVDvss/s512-Ic42/tcase7.jpg)
A better view of the top mount:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a6RVIp52mlA/Vpw9jXODfQI/AAAAAAAAA2I/4vIv9xwUtUY/s512-Ic42/tcase2.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fL9HdFL-GEc/Vpw9kgM37GI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/5bCTmk9cP6c/s512-Ic42/tcase3.jpg)
Here is a good view of the left hand side. In the coming days I hope to build the mount for this side.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yHmc5xjz5VE/Vpw9lkaRsCI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/9DjgPCA5-Uw/s512-Ic42/tcase4.jpg)
On the center support there are visible three pilot holes for the transfer case mount. (the two lower ones are for the torque bars) I'll drill these out to 21/32" to accept 5/8" bolts that will thread into the blocks seen in the photo below:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ex55rqQJBOE/VpMHExvw_3I/AAAAAAAAA0c/kGVpXwumQ6M/s512-Ic42/transfer%252520case%252520018.JPG)
Also in the above photo is the flat plate, and 3"x3" square tube that I will use along with several braces to build the mount for the left side.
Stay tuned. Hopefully I can have this part done in a couple of weeks.
-Eng
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The red letter warning in my thread is reminding me that it has been too long since my last update. My excuse this time is my daily driver. I finally had to put an engine in my 22 year old steed. Can't complain. Only gave $1,000 for this truck when I dragged it out of the weeds.
This is it:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MO3_QX8vMzc/VtTxCY6cU1I/AAAAAAAAA34/P4lVj3kR-_g/s512-Ic42/003%252520%2525282%252529.JPG)
Not bad for a grand? Eh?
This is a view of the engine I dropped in it. Yes, Virginia Santa Claus gave us an engine with a factory 4-bolt main, and a windage tray.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HL6YMkHJHH8/VtTxDsgRHrI/AAAAAAAAA38/cwrSHr5qKSg/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520016.JPG)
So if you are wondering why this update has been delayed, this is why. Took about 1 month, and $1,500.00 from the monster truck's budget in the process. Oh well, no worries. Truck's worth it in my opinion. Cheaper than a new one.
Didn't really have a choice. I have been driving it around for the last two years with a blown head gasket. There was a bad spot in the block that prevented the engine from holding a good head seal. Then the other head cracked and would pour water all over the starter. And finally the water pump checked out. In the end it took me 1 gallon of water to go about 20 miles.........which can get really expensive in freezing weather.
But now back to our regularly scheduled monster truck thread.
I have been working on the mounts for the transfer case. Almost completed the left hand side mounts. This is a view of the 4) 5/8-11 mounting holes I am going to use:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yHmc5xjz5VE/Vpw9lkaRsCI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/9DjgPCA5-Uw/s512-Ic42/tcase4.jpg)
Plates and tubing that will make up the left hand side mount:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-86HwnhJyVgc/VtTvW1CukKI/AAAAAAAAA3o/xXVjUmGtenk/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520034.JPG)
Another view of the tubing with the plate welded on that the bolts through the center support fasten to:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u6XRHNwzCLM/VtTvYIIwEXI/AAAAAAAAA3o/4c6RpSL-HUo/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520035.JPG)
A view of the center support where the tubing bolts in at:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FL02sLb_U-k/VtTvcyYnyHI/AAAAAAAAA3s/vX__g7oIQJw/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520039.JPG)
Looking inside the center support:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xKF6C-m9HE8/VtTvdyQxkoI/AAAAAAAAA3s/g-z5UD1EKeQ/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520040.JPG)
The large plate and tubing prior to weld up:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bdC6trJUXCA/VtTvadvvbKI/AAAAAAAAA3o/N-IHLEl1ks8/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520037.JPG)
Different view:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gfpQMSg956U/VtTvbojR2RI/AAAAAAAAA3s/0bOHAzwNy7Y/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520038.JPG)
The bracket with the three holes in it underneath the tubing is for a brace that will extend over to the bolts on the front cover of the transfer case. Opposite side will have this as well so as to "cradle" the transfer case.
More tubing and gussets:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-48OT5q0Mnp4/VtTvZT07T_I/AAAAAAAAA3o/uVGx64GBrQQ/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520036.JPG)
The rest of the support tubing tacked in:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5tQHOGGRD6g/VtTvgSXQzvI/AAAAAAAAA3s/jF7D_msc7uI/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520044.JPG)
Another view:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nnpj2ltHmrY/VtTvid5TZzI/AAAAAAAAA3s/rJSQDvmNN40/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520046.JPG)
The gussets on the large plate:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EKPEU5kT514/VtTvfPboS6I/AAAAAAAAA3s/bxGWdoWfGXw/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520041.JPG)
The following photographs are the right hand side mount. There is quite a bit left to do here. On top of the tube you may see a line scratched. This will indicate where I will cut a groove to weld in a large plate similar to the plate on the left hand side. Said plate will have 5 holes bored to match the ones in the angle on the right hand side to give support to this side.
Most importantly is the fact that since the left side mount will be basically permenant the right hand side will need to be able to be disassembled to facilitate removal of the transfer case for service/repair.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R5xXRrsUoc8/VtTvhfnc0fI/AAAAAAAAA3s/A_WrWH8XyBc/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520045.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FxawDSG8Jys/VtTvja3XhRI/AAAAAAAAA3s/mucHXMSwNME/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520047.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FdXuQNhkgEE/VtTvkUd7lnI/AAAAAAAAA3s/3Z_edc73Sbg/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520048.JPG)
This is a good view of the transfer case which shows all three mounts. Should keep it mounted pretty solid:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PyzNltlnvTo/VtTvlYEYihI/AAAAAAAAA3s/PL9wLF5yXtc/s512-Ic42/tcase%252520049.JPG)
I have to take all of this back out. Then I can clean up a lot of the crudeness of these brackets. Most of these mounts is left over stock from other projects. Had I planned to use the Rockwell case from the start I could have made a much cleaner mounting set up.
When I take it out I'll sandblast it all, then the epoxy primer and the black paint. Can't wait. :)
This represents the final large scale fabrication. After this is complete I can start setting the body on. After that I will still have to fabricate the mounts for the small chunk of factory frame I'll use for the radiator support, and bumper mount. The other fab will be a frame to set the bed on so it will tilt.
Updates when I can.
-Eng
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Still looks good despite the impromptu planning. I sure wish I had a need for a beastly transfer case like that!
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There are trucks everywhere running 2 1/2 ton axles. You would think there should be one transfer case for every steer axle. After I found this one I went looking for more in hopes of finding a cheaper one. No such luck. As a matter of fact I found very few 2 1/2 ton transfer cases available. I know of very few that even in the big mud/mega trucks. Almost without fail the mud trucks that run 2 1/2 ton axles use a 205 or similar.
The Rockwell T-136-27 is about 400#. That is mainly why many guys probably scrap them like I did the huge Rockwell that came in the M-54 I took my axles from.
When you look at the gears in the T-136-27 you know there is no chance you'll ever break a gear in one with a normal automotive based engine.
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Most 2-1/2 transfers are put into use replacing the early sprague cases. The air shift cases demand more money, because parts for the sprague cases are basically non-existent, so when they stop going into 6 wheel, it's the end of the line
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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My case is one of the air shift variety. If they are in that much demand then maybe I should keep it under my hat how much I paid for the one I have. Wouldn't want to be accused of being part of a scandal. Hehe.
But yeah, I would never have bought this transfer case if it wasn't an air shift unit.
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This update will be kinda lame, mostly because I haven't had much time to devote to my build. Just the same, I have been working on little details such as finishing projects that I have started. I finally finished the pintle hook. I needed to tighten all of the bolts and paint the bolt heads. Same for the bolt heads on the brake line brackets.
The big reason I haven't been working on the monster lately is because I just returned from a week and a half tour of Florida so I could watch my youngest son play baseball. While in Florida I learned from my oldest son that there was a big mud party going on in the panhandle. I must have seen a hundred mud trucks of all shapes, and sizes. I took the time to photograph one that I recognized from a magazine cover that we have laying around:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8cBaQukjxZI/Vu391OFSNHI/AAAAAAAAA44/3y0XejTQPVIzCy4-7PSMOzR7CiiQqWRfgCCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B004.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7lSbXLsuRY8/Vu38w5kj6eI/AAAAAAAAA5A/utw-G52-xF4J99m3jpVu5KTJaLwvTJ-9gCCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B079.JPG)
So here is the update on my rig.
I made this plate from the accompanying template. (Please don't dwell on this horrible example of how not to use a torch. I'm a little out of practice.) It is the rest of the right hand transfer case mount. Since the left hand mount is essentially a one piece assembly, I had to make the right hand side a two piece so as to be able to disassemble it in order to install/remove the transfer case.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d_jyN3_K1p8/Vu38np2gaNI/AAAAAAAAA40/Smbof-aiQGoUaYtUJLwAwVz5p9mu9aOnACCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B072.JPG)
There will be 5) 1/2" holes drilled to match the exisiting holes in the mount that bolts to the transfer case. I chose to make the right hand side the two piece. Due to prevailing engine torque the right hand mount should have less stress on it than the left hand does.
The groove cut in the square tube will accept the plate and will be the part that bolts to the angle bracket on the transfer case to the frame center support. The plate will be welded to the square tube.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5-yyPj20LLc/Vu38ovNQXSI/AAAAAAAAA40/zLph9eXFN7A9I7BMobwEbRZv-HMPARGZACCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B073.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M9Fl4r3DDDs/Vu38prHSUII/AAAAAAAAA40/s1nwG6pmJ50BpgqYdwaS7QLpn2yPTqwkwCCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B074.JPG)
Here we see my 2/0 battery cable. I designed the battery box to accept a group 31 battery in the rear of the truck. The cable will run along the top of the frame where it will be kept away from the fuel line. (safety, safety, safety, fire prevention) The heater hose will be sectioned to fit under the one hole clamps to aid in protecting the cable from metal abrasion by the clamps or the frame.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vXl6Yr0_W3g/Vu38rUZzMMI/AAAAAAAAA40/C2fH-jBkJmExjGCqfq8kRzYpDNjQFegLwCCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B075.JPG)
This next view is a carry over from my pull truck. The solenoid on the frame is the actual starter solenoid. The only time the red cable will have power is when the starter is actually cranking the engine. There is a jumper between the "B+" terminal on the starter itself, and the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. The wire from my ignition switch goes to the hot side of the frame mounted solenoid which then operates the circut to spin the engine starter. The reason I did this was if I ever had an emergency and needed to change the starter at a pull, say between the light and heavy classes, I didn't have to spend time unhooking the battery. The little metal shield is to keep the header heat from the solenoid.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iV-aFtRbZSw/Vu38ufJA7jI/AAAAAAAAA40/aRrvPCAypb0e7CanJupRazqDO6JhW564QCCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B077.JPG)
The next photo shows my resolution to a problem I had concerning my wheel attachment hardware. The 5-ton military trucks use the standard OTR truck taper seat, or "stud pilot" wheel lug nuts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kwURnZ1LUP8/Vu38s1ddiJI/AAAAAAAAA40/ws17vaythfMR0dRwSIsWuScRUNZG8DkZQCCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B076.JPG)
The shorter stud is the standard 5-ton military piece. These are rare, and expensive through a heavy truck supplier. The longer stud is for a Kenworth truck with aluminum hubs. Both are the same 3/4" thread. The Kenworth piece is less than half the price of the military unit, and can be bought singly whereas the military stud could only be ordered in multiples of 10. The machine bushing off to the right of the Kenworth stud is necessary under the head of the stud to make the longer serrated shoulder work in the cast iron military hub. The 3/4" grade 8 tall nut and u-bolt washer will be my lug nuts. An actual 3/4" flange style lug nut is about $5 a piece whereas the 3/4" tall nut and hardened u-bolt washer is a little over $1 for the set.
And finally, this is a picture of the 5-ton hub in the stud replacement phase. I am having trouble getting any work from my hired hands. All they want to do is stand around in the shop blasting Def Leppard's "Pour Some Sugar On Me". It gets kinda old after a while.........
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ODsNAY2Iq-E/Vu38vSUds8I/AAAAAAAAA40/naSi_HmIE3gv-qlZYa5g0xXbxqhOuzFQgCCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B078.JPG)
And a bonus posting (because I do this from time to time)..........
It has taken me almost a half a century, and 4 trips to the Kennedy Space Center, but I finally was able to see a real live, honest to goodness, space shuttle, albeit in retirement. Several times I just missed seeing these things in previous visits, on two occasions by ONLY ONE DAY......
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-liJqsecHls8/Vu4I25ttyvI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/tafNL__jQFYTy55QF63a5ohT1l3qkp4uwCCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B011.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x_fttrbjMbg/Vu4I33D5oGI/AAAAAAAAA5c/2rqUmUUjisAJcw0FL66q9KWMz6CAi7i4wCCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B020.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VVsi542Vlp0/Vu4I5Y_9w4I/AAAAAAAAA5g/mgTSlelGPY0Ex1SJkHDOJS5XB978yzMtQCCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B022.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uxUHrMmJTqw/Vu4I6e_lWmI/AAAAAAAAA5k/EQUQ8H8J3g0yYb8YN3nlZLQm42jDuO9GgCCo/s512-Ic42/Florida%2B024.JPG)
I'm not too proud to admit, I got a little emotional finally seeing that big, beautiful angel after fruitlessly chasing it mutiple times since my first trip to the Space Coast in January of 1980.......I had so much pride, and faith in the shuttle program, I was the guy who would have immediately volunteered to ride any one of the shuttles the day after we lost the Challenger.
Also displayed with the Atlantis are pieces of the Challenger, and Columbia. I was so overcome with memories, I couldn't bring myself to take photographs of those.
If you have never been to the Kennedy Space Center I could blubber for hours about the epoch size, and how massive these things are that we rode into space, but unless you have seen it for yourself you just couldn't really appreciate it. Like seeing the Grand Canyon, words don't do it justice.
'Til next time,
Eng
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Gobs and gobs of neat-o beneat-o super uber cool stuffs. Great update.
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Eng, I believe you to be a smart guy however, check with the job placement company to ensure your hired hands actually have hands before accepting them! I'm not rocket scientist but I believe this can help you emensly!
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Interestingly, Rockwell was also the prime contractor on the Space Shuttle orbiters.
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Well I finally have the mounts done for the transfer case. This weekend's plans revolve around pulling the case and mounts back out so they can be sandblasted, and painted when I find the time. Going to do the hubs as well.......if I can get mah Peeps to put out any work. Atleast they did get one hub ready. Knocked out the old races and put the studs in one of the hubs:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M1d8X0e6p_k/Vv3DYtC5EnI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/YG7aRuc2egAyv4yebkrjppgXXqDGP8BGwCCo/s512-Ic42/HUBS.jpg)
I finished building the mount for the left hand side. This little bracket will help cradle the transfer case.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nPSZW0Yky48/Vv3DUjbe4nI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/qheJkcRi0xsg3mahV3RlPIKAPowdm_mIwCCo/s512-Ic42/easter%2B007.JPG)
Here it is in place on the left hand side:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ess0tbpBIxc/Vv3DWN5R92I/AAAAAAAAA6Y/jZSjKOri5Z8JJXHyAr4BdF6ECizxiVcmACCo/s512-Ic42/easter%2B008.JPG)
Here is a view of the right hand side and its parts:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tGeVEbdATSc/Vv3DPjXHnDI/AAAAAAAAA6U/QH-lsgpchNgJYXkIK6TVLS-NIF919FMLgCCo/s512-Ic42/easter%2B003.JPG)
This view shows the flat plate welded into the square tube. The hockey stick bracket is a cradle type similar to the one built for the left:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bNlX7Kt41c4/Vv3DXQ2iHuI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/S5Q7sGzyHz00_YPLv4MJyhtL9XdYnPPMwCCo/s512-Ic42/easter%2B021.JPG)
Complete view:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eVIVAJsxe74/Vv3DTXbvlMI/AAAAAAAAA6U/2pbo_XBkGzo9n7kVY6alCIm3B-PN9gYWgCCo/s512-Ic42/easter%2B006.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vrT0FFZf4rQ/Vv3DSZk9wtI/AAAAAAAAA6U/sUcaw4X1nLs4a5z1LbPODJayfezLBtZhwCCo/s512-Ic42/easter%2B005.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AlbyHeN31Qk/Vv3DRBTXC1I/AAAAAAAAA6U/geKr-8i_h2YtlBo69ewkKxxh5lapuAaNgCCo/s512-Ic42/easter%2B004.JPG)
And we roll on.......
-Eng
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The latest has us looking at the positive battery cable ran, and in place:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SoeZDq3eQb4/VwxFu6LeRfI/AAAAAAAAA7I/nimChUJ5Ea8qWJ9tPkQsNZgRieIjDg9VACCo/s512-Ic42/tcasemount%2B036.JPG)
The 1/4" air brake tubing I am using to vent the axles, and gear boxes will follow along with the battery cable as well as the 1/2" line from the air tank that will feed a switch in the cab for actuation of the 4x4 and any other air powered accessories. (Like a train horn and bell...... ;))
Then I was able to get the Peeps to do some sandblasting:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LwYfCs-heLA/VwxFth47WDI/AAAAAAAAA7I/LW2o1CAThdo7mIc-qv57M2aNg_ug6tVDACCo/s512-Ic42/tcasemount%2B035.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AKE_cWKsdNQ/VwxFv8xk5KI/AAAAAAAAA7I/7UswrGtZ0-QuAw62BJhVdGYRVPx8hM_VwCCo/s512-Ic42/tcasemount%2B037.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7L2Dn6N5kp4/VwxFxF7wCwI/AAAAAAAAA7I/7mU4vZ_2m2w7eU-TrUOtYzYMJhDJx8wQACCo/s512-Ic42/tcasemount%2B038.JPG)
A little epoxy primer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4SBdNDd-Spo/VwxFycec8xI/AAAAAAAAA7I/PyBsTioKErAYt1uRyXvThi0H73LCq_VYQCCo/s512-Ic42/tcasemount%2B039.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gAAy215oM2s/VwxFziST_MI/AAAAAAAAA7I/j47427Uz7XcWrIm78QHbjgb0nAxvhOlHACCo/s512-Ic42/tcasemount%2B040.JPG)
And paint:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0eMUr2rCI64/VwxF2GaS1wI/AAAAAAAAA7M/9LCg8p5km3MLSR8qhDtcJjILVR17u1bVwCCo/s512-Ic42/tcasemount%2B042.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7wL76ikoa0I/VwxF0wg6JkI/AAAAAAAAA7I/MJspBu7Pgqks3bxfzrpF0-ZqvizS68ugQCCo/s512-Ic42/tcasemount%2B041.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-86_CvoHKSLo/VwxF3XX7isI/AAAAAAAAA7M/rWrPRwm4zz4asDHocqNM46w4jrp718Z2QCCo/s512-Ic42/tcasemount%2B043.JPG)
I decided to do this much for now. I wanted to get the transfer case done at the same time but since the weather was good and the transfer case needed some little improvement measures I elected to do the brackets. I want to check the 4x4 actuator piston, I will have to fashion a large pin to lock the hi-lo range rail, and I need to go back and reseal the rear output shaft. I also chose to get 2 of the hubs done so I can swap those into the front when I get the new wheel bearing seals........and so the front axle will be finished. (It, too, is on the list of uncompleted projects. ::))
As soon as I can I will get the transfer case painted so it can go back in the truck......can't wait. :D
I have elected to make a change to my brakes. Instead of having a bubba :o engineered piston spacer machined I am going to buy a new set of rotors that are the appropriate thickness......Much more on that later. :o
Also, I should be finishing the fuel line in the next week or so. And I just bought 2 new mufflers so I can build the exhaust.
My main focus is to finish up all of the many little sub projects I have going before moving on. I have started much that needs completed. Things like the battery cable, brake lines, fuel line, and transfer case install are much easier without the body in the way. I want these done so I can set the body on and get the engine running.
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Here is why you don't let stupid people build monster trucks.........
OK I'm not stupid, but I did something recently that goes against my best judgement. Thinking I could cheap out on my brake build I bought two rotors that were a really good price. I figured by using a GM caliper that I would be in business if I just made a spacer for the piston for the excess travel demanded by the thinner rotor. WRONG!!!
I didn't think this one through enough. Partly thinking I could get the spacers made for a reasonable price. As alluded to earlier in this thread one machine shop wanted $400 to make two spacers.
So, after much thought I decided to buy the correct rotors. These are they:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iOMAfrd-vAE/VylWySVJh3I/AAAAAAAAA9U/xMMEuSNVvr8woz37MQPnMU9bU63agZbuwCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B001.JPG)
The one on the right was what I should have bought originally. Idiotically thinking I figured I could make a spacer. Trying to find a lathe was my next nightmare. I bought these two rolls of steel for that purpose.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dJB1-AXrXiM/VylXXYabuaI/AAAAAAAAA90/1D7JH3cNumMrZk8wCwZYqzSKBYM6T-CBgCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B041.JPG)
The headache alone of trying to find a lathe should have told me how bad of an idea this all was. The thicker rotor has the benefit of better heat transfer, and oddly enough, they weigh the same.
The thicker (proper thickness) rotors were $150/pair, the thinner rotors were $75/pair. The spacer blanks were $50/pair. Do the math..... We are right at the $150 from the start. No savings here. Anyway, live, and learn. I didn't think making the spacers were going to be such a hassle.
Anyhow, the build is much more solid with the proper rotor, and no bubba spacer.
I am proud to say the brakes are finished! (one of the many projects that I have seen to completion recently).
Here is the front with the proper thickness rotor and no spacer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f_XVb9jKEK0/VylXFZOfAnI/AAAAAAAAA90/8Okh5N6FpscMrrgPqP2KcCf5bqvAnSN3QCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B022.JPG)
Another view:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lBeQ_CxP73w/VylXGnywA7I/AAAAAAAAA90/ew3CC4GpC9EDnJQZzSBaZxYZcXbaYfFeQCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B023.JPG)
The rear:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vrrJgnG7qzA/VylW2TGkQII/AAAAAAAAA9w/0yETdO0wweIbkNC2bpru0ixmPRPoJS5LQCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B009.JPG)
And an angle where both are visible:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xXxJ0b0Ecas/VylW7DI7B3I/AAAAAAAAA9w/9FzxRxCesHsNKtFg5gvf4rZjrjYXUPtyACCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B012.JPG)
That is all I have time for tonight.
There is a ton more things completed. I have the transfer case sandblasted, painted, and installed. The fuel line(s) are done. The air tank is in and permanently mounted. The front hubs have been completed, and the right one installed with new seals. And I have a good start on my exhaust. Plus I have taken the time to black out most of the bolt heads.
I'll update more things later with pics. Check back!
-Eng
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We all make little fumbles sometimes, it's ok. Bravo work tho, I really like the brake idea.
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I'm all for making stuff... But with out access to the equipment it's sometimes a snipe hunt! I however have access to a lot of machinery and will be making some tools of my own soon. There's a room at work where we teach machine tool operator. In that room are 8 full size 440vac lathes, a large band saw, full size mill and a few other things that I'm not real sure what they do...yet!
The chassis is looking great. Slap some wheels on it so we can get an idea of the stance.... You know you want to!
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The best I can do is a picture from the mock up phase with a couple of the military 11.00-20s on it:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I_2tHSs5WK0/VcKh2DrAEAI/AAAAAAAAASc/8hGCC3FtpvA2to9e6XvRr80oIRDwn-PXACCo/s512/frame%2Bstuff%2B032.JPG?gl=US)
Looking across the frame you can see how it dwarfs the 2500HD behind it.
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Here is the fuel line.
I ran it down the outside of the frame for the same reason the brake line is on the outside on the left. I want to keep it from the exhaust heat.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-knGdTnv92vs/VylWzhdBMKI/AAAAAAAAA9U/wpKGzKyt-dE4WnsZ6SakyqfCgL9K39wHwCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B006.JPG)
A close up of the brackets:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zw03s8TT4Wg/VylW0feb8AI/AAAAAAAAA9U/kdU5oPxSu2oG9YFEgKuQc_5W6ku7YQ9CACCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B007.JPG?gl=US)
The flex line is stainless steel. It works good for snaking around obstructions that normal bending of hard line would be a pain.
My fancy schmancy fuel filter monitor:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--3jHREaWqVw/VylW1cViXnI/AAAAAAAAA9U/vVMDCaZGGxgqTrWRo1uSZzoFA1f57AFGACCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B008.JPG?gl=US)
I worked on this in the last couple of days. I changed from a standard v-belt to a serpentine assembly so it required a change of the pressure line from the pump to the carburetor:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7Gwm2MtGbuo/VylXWX__xzI/AAAAAAAAA90/dAV-LoUOigcGrtKVR6FBGn8pkZEZFkgzQCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B040.JPG?gl=US)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l13S3qzbWQ4/VylXVcce2eI/AAAAAAAAA90/HrOH6QI3mzMjuySwwbc1Pm2PITWt6gwjACCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B039.JPG?gl=US)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_mXV4vL7c38/VylXUdcyaII/AAAAAAAAA9Q/mb11ZAfFmK0NtYUlOe9KkOIwUMXYZxPIgCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B038.JPG?gl=US)
There is hard line only on the pressure side. This was done to eliminate one more potential for fire. No rubber lines and no fuel filter. (the fuel filter is that massive thing with the filter monitor back by where the tank will be)
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How did you make and air filter service gauge into a fuel filter service gauge. It looks like it has a brass fitting on it?
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It is actually fuel filter specific. I have another one that looks identical that is air filter specific that I plan on putting under my air filter base.
I believe it is a Luberfiner part. If I remember I'll get the part number off of it tomorrow.
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I had no idea they made one for fuel filters. I know GM has been putting the air filter ones on trucks for years, had no idea they had ones just like them for fuel. I'm eventually going to put an air filter one on my truck but that's so far down the list of things to do, I've put it off for over a year now lol.
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The fuel filter minder is a Fleetguard part. Part# 3982577S or 3892576S
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Oh those are cool.
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Just read through a whole bunch of this thread, awesome stuff. It's funny you mention Jack Willman as I've actually done some work for him. He's invited me to his place and I should probably go.
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Just read through a whole bunch of this thread, awesome stuff. It's funny you mention Jack Willman as I've actually done some work for him. He's invited me to his place and I should probably go.
I would love to go too. I have been to several of the shops around StLouis. I assume he is still in Madison, IL?
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IJaKLcckLL8/V1eDyNEZ8pI/AAAAAAAABAY/QLPIxkR8ZPsIYVIYDqEQO2EYBVJRpaObQCCo/s512/IMG_4401.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0Wn3835i6kw/V1eEITtfEnI/AAAAAAAABAg/BJJ2-667JOM0Z8cF9jfC1l2fLYGZetFyACCo/s512/Bof.jpg)
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It's huge! And it don't even have tired on it yet!
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I likey a lot!!
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Such a high-end build! Thanks again for continuing to share it with us in great detail!
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Yeah, well sorry actually, it isn't more detailed. I have tons of pictures from the transfer case install, building driveshafts, installing the air tank. Setting the body on was a whole day job. Just finished the last of the body mounts/radiator support/front bumper frame work.
Posting pictures and a detailed text takes time and I have been really busy. I threw in the two pictures of the body on as a carrot to keep y'all coming back and to let everyone know that I haven't forgotten anyone.
I met a guy a while back that wants me to e-mail him some pics of a B-17 I took on a trip through GA in March so maybe I'll find time to sit down and get everybody caught up.
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Just read through a whole bunch of this thread, awesome stuff. It's funny you mention Jack Willman as I've actually done some work for him. He's invited me to his place and I should probably go.
I would love to go too. I have been to several of the shops around StLouis. I assume he is still in Madison, IL?
She'll Knob MO these days
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Wow. I just noticed that this thread has passed the 7 year old mark.
I have a bunch more done. Sorry if I have been too busy to post pics. If I can find the time I'll throw some in here.
Some of the major completions done lately are the radiator is in. The front of the engine is mostly put together. Still need to get the alternator rebuilt.
Going to use the engine oil cooler that came with my '91 Blazer radiator support. It will be the power steering cooler. I made a custom bracket to hold the steering valve. The steering valve is mounted so I can use the factory steering column.
All three driveshafts are done. The transmission/transfer case driveshaft is permanently installed. The front and rear 5-ton driveshafts are done but need to be pulled back out to be painted.
The rear window is back in. Waiting on my dash to arrive so I can see what it is going to take to put it in.
Immediate plans are to build the torque/ladder/traction bars, and plumb the hydraulic steering. As soon as the weather cools some I'm going to focus on painting and finishing the hood and bed......then it will look like a truck. :)
Time, and cooler weather is what I could use more of.
Stay tuned.
-Eng
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It's odd cause I was just rereading the post yesterday. The family went to a monster truck show at the state fair. It wasn't the big named guys but trucks like iron outlaw, stinger, storm damage (who is a 80s style Chevy longbed), saigon shaker and hurricane force. It was as if I was looking at these truck in a new way. I was looking at all the parts and able to relate to why and how it was built that way.
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Here's a couple pictures
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When Storm Damage was in town a few years back it was a 2008 Silverado.
Do you have any better pictures of the Storm Damage truck with the square body on it?
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Have to see if I have anyone who took some.
(http://c8.alamy.com/comp/FGNB7N/new-orleans-la-usa-20th-feb-2016-storm-damage-monster-truck-in-action-FGNB7N.jpg)
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What's odd is even in the advertisements its the Chevy you're talking about
http://m.delawarestatefair.com/events/2016/monster-truck-meltdown/
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I took this picture a few years ago. Don't remember exactly when though. This is the 2009 Silverado body.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QFEPTHEyejg/V5gB467gMjI/AAAAAAAABA8/zZ5Z6iI1IyU0stTuZTzcqGZ9XiPw5oRhACCo/s512/storm%2Bdamage.jpg)
For my old school brothers. I stole this picture from the Taurus retro facebook page. It is assumably the rebuild of Taurus when it was a square body. Hopefully I can find out more about this jewel. If this is truly the original Taurus then that makes this truck's frame the original Bearfoot 1 as well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s6OPAlbSs38/V1eCGfCqoAI/AAAAAAAABAU/ejNuZTFXMNglsxnPgfTdiv1reGduyUCFwCCo/s512/cabon%2B027.JPG)
The frame horns are from a '73~'80, so that would be correct for the original Bearfoot truck.
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So here are some pictures from this summer......
Transfer case getting cleaned up:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A1U1WrpSZuQ/VylW4blctUI/AAAAAAAAA9w/BwscRIs4_WgGZ7_RCgYkFTQk2XXuxv8fQCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B010.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LFK5Dtt9rtw/VylW6BOXzxI/AAAAAAAAA9w/uJXz53OVIe0kA1biJmAKJ_n8vOf61Q7qQCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B011.JPG)
Primer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XaqQ6iEt0zY/VylW8A-kMyI/AAAAAAAAA9w/Btq_Zj7gbg0SQfFW8E-ayeNpMeWiDKTxACCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B013.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--Na08JFuLwI/VylW9CvXRiI/AAAAAAAAA-A/wLFlTyQg7S8hTfqKuacQ4fBBMMRtNH_YwCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B014.JPG)
I found this date cast into the transfer case casting. This makes my 2 1/2-ton Rockwell case the same age as my 5-ton Rockwell axles. Which, by the way, they are about to celebrate their 50th birthday in a couple of weeks........
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3ssDf7_0PkQ/VylW-Lb38uI/AAAAAAAAA-A/TKisYlCImRso6p3EbusjDT322Dg1xZhfgCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B015.JPG)
Paint:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TfarNmGag74/VylW_q0e0sI/AAAAAAAAA-A/0dzRou_3tm8tW6JWNxH3D_A5_KVseOwGQCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B016.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pRye2BPyLGM/VylXAknN7xI/AAAAAAAAA-A/h5lSM5DWKIQ5adeyUUQmqGksIHi2JMnAgCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B017.JPG)
The installation of the transfer case:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GwauufmI6Ow/VylXHg0rvaI/AAAAAAAAA90/_7AzQLWx5m0GLXA-UVhvavwh5YkKrgXwgCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B025.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EnLvVik_r5M/VylXIat3NBI/AAAAAAAAA90/4DMsFRZN7vYS1AG8KAdK06qIIUMKZhJCACCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B026.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XhllwdkSupA/VylXJf4aXoI/AAAAAAAAA90/Jtg5MrxOwAMlx03G6DjYBplv3kygOdszwCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B027.JPG)
And with the passenger side mount in place:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-agEG3qpKeWs/VylXL6piZYI/AAAAAAAAA90/ZxS1K7-f6R0GOsWkVZbsWBZZfTNDCoUngCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B029.JPG)
Frontal view looking aft at the driveline corridor:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DDnjN49rfz8/VylXNJVCjXI/AAAAAAAAA90/bDgs8u2E_PMFul5tJ5O018-YnQ7QM5rFACCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B030.JPG)
These views show the air tank and its mounts:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xppAV344hY4/VylXC9rNfnI/AAAAAAAAA90/YMZY89LlqeUwIpdUaHcKL5VMRHevd-lJwCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B019.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s-58VBnw0VA/VylXEYP9ofI/AAAAAAAAA90/fyfmoiVm58sHjNQ0lXTbzaTceZaberYQgCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B021.JPG)
Bought two of these mufflers:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GKE7_DfwSdg/VylXB0QcR6I/AAAAAAAAA-A/5MKdrExE_WEbKbTrRKXV-mXSrYpb58fYwCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B018.JPG)
Driver's side in location:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RSTTDNv3FX4/VylXD0MfqcI/AAAAAAAAA90/aT2lUSWm-6wKCynU45S_Q58cHipPlRe_ACCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B020.JPG)
Made a heat shield for the muffler:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b_KNf-qdvVA/V1eAeJah7WI/AAAAAAAABAA/z1Wkjpk1q60ESo1KH3mj3h_WG6hr-YpBQCCo/s512/cabon%2B009.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-muFu8-QT5eI/V1eAfIfrZfI/AAAAAAAABAA/_qjRmWnE2wcg1e0YyLZZdtsDCad7-bthwCCo/s512/cabon%2B010.JPG)
Bought new hub seals:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lYhTNKl96vQ/VylXOevnFlI/AAAAAAAAA90/9pRBcUQLx58KgxVIjHaxWTqrizP7HzMbwCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B031.JPG)
Cleaned the spindle, repacked the wheel bearings, and installed the new seals:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1kaHSXQbMhM/VylXPSg4TUI/AAAAAAAAA90/PKIqcSlYUy84IfalXxl1yukFKNtLNFBPACCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B032.JPG)
The finished product:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X_T1f03hQwA/VylXRvBgzfI/AAAAAAAAA90/VK7TJXaiXVsfE-Yg8jI_WK8boQ5mHoN4QCCo/s512/fuel%2Bline%2B034.JPG)
Went back to the place where I bought my transfer case and bought one of the 2 1/2-ton driveshafts:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u_zasASJleg/V1eAgUADAbI/AAAAAAAABAE/CI7QPyrGd6IqMgIzIg_-6hp729hB31CWgCCo/s512/cabon%2B016.JPG)
Grafted the 1410 end onto my 1350 driveshaft that I was intending to use for the front driveshaft in my puller:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MJyocY60jDE/V1eAiiB08yI/AAAAAAAABAE/BMf_kzldkT0oXCv-sftOD0XZeRZ-QoawwCCo/s512/cabon%2B017.JPG)
A close up of the transfer case end:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8rnBKSYymyc/V1eAjnlkQ_I/AAAAAAAABAE/kBKcCv9Xc-oXELhm_uOQTBlVoL9YvHYMgCCo/s512/cabon%2B018.JPG)
From the transmission:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qrv_LfA-M0U/V1eAkerE5FI/AAAAAAAABAE/wYBzcY3jHM0E9pBGv3bntwI5ai367DRUQCCo/s512/cabon%2B019.JPG)
The Spicer life 1350 on the transmission end:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aJP-q59F2S4/V1eAlU1lIKI/AAAAAAAABAE/eazMnz3NBJwpdQpBIjzQ8TVXn3o5JsUxwCCo/s512/cabon%2B020.JPG)
This shows the radical angle on the 1410 end:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7NTVBLF7y4s/V1eAmW-t1mI/AAAAAAAABAE/aXGmmUGys3QZjwFT8PFEzWSbNHJXwAkRgCCo/s512/cabon%2B022.JPG)
Completed shaft:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hi8wRkqzsKI/V1eAnZ1qljI/AAAAAAAABAE/TPvcmStlx-0VhQjchhi3rcC-3fdLfCOKwCCo/s512/cabon%2B023.JPG)
And a brand new Spicer Life 1410 u-joint for the transfer case end:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8UK11CIrbO4/V1eAofDIKVI/AAAAAAAABAE/Rl6hfC8QUpU-RU60FQMbObuLrszl7tOWwCCo/s512/cabon%2B028.JPG)
A view of me cab hanging in the air: [eek]
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FYTyNSFmYi4/V1eArX_LKLI/AAAAAAAABAE/BagK9eJ42HgAyZBObY9XdtzkKuUn1BiCgCCo/s512/cabon%2B034.JPG)
The frame in anxious anticipation:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5DaCeHNvums/V1eAsfQBjzI/AAAAAAAABAE/KYcGTAn5sE0i0gkpiytQHOAVWDJz5AzQQCCo/s512/cabon%2B035.JPG)
Oddly the cab installation went VERY smooth. I aint braggin', or maybe I am, but I nailed all 4 cab mounts EXACTLY! The cab is true, level, square, and parallel to the frame. And I hit the bolt holes dead center. The only thing I did extra was to add 1 factory body shim to both sides of the rear cab mount to ensure a slight nose down stance as the truck sets level.
Here is a pic of the cab after it was laid down and before the radiator support framework was added:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wnJFyBXQBHs/V1eApZjwF3I/AAAAAAAABAE/hvLjZn1F6a0fhsq7Vya4r1fDCYhkgyvRgCCo/s512/cabon%2B030.JPG)
This is a view of the clutch linkage and my custom bracket:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5ZimDWgMXbk/V1eAtHTNCaI/AAAAAAAABAE/aFl5xE_UNF8-JOT5vcCadYD49TzdRnAmQCCo/s512/cabon%2B037.JPG)
Here are a couple of views that show the pieces that would become the radiator support framework:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yldozBpEqMU/V5gGb7gHREI/AAAAAAAABC8/RrYlaAbcdNM07fU_k4DZczOu6adVoazMQCCo/s512/steering%2B001.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rylaoQiofvw/V5gGdCWO1KI/AAAAAAAABC8/WIx1ZONuOaECFcdDOqnCLJvTrcm_y-NXwCCo/s512/steering%2B002.JPG)
Build up:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JiJduKruI1w/V5gGe2QY0DI/AAAAAAAABC8/vi1mwKeQoxsST1dvg1DR9W0SqXRVo1eHwCCo/s512/steering%2B004.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6qQ6qo8FbWU/V5gGfi3FWoI/AAAAAAAABC8/CjUjj5hLKQo0un9gG-2E_gsvJBJ8YCG9ACCo/s512/steering%2B005%2B%25282%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kFAvnG8k274/V5gGgwAq1OI/AAAAAAAABC8/x3wSdDlod6QduBJcRDr7c51FX6w2oz1mQCCo/s512/steering%2B006.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XxU8ChAzCaY/V5gGiOByJuI/AAAAAAAABC8/46tT9gIX_c84s3LUeionN0jP7FqvWROagCCo/s512/steering%2B007.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5MrPLwefFdo/V5gGi6ZbOyI/AAAAAAAABC8/eGhcxOVxNaI2_xf5XDRY4i5f4YCZotkMgCCo/s512/steering%2B008.JPG)
I used a chunk of the factory frame so the bumper brackets would work without fuss:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j22bt42T6Ig/V5gGkGKYXGI/AAAAAAAABC8/T92X0rLuf28tqPn5gIV488FQZzrdTmn8ACCo/s512/steering%2B009.JPG)
A nice, good view of the front after the bumper was installed:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BCnHnM3162o/V5gGlz3H5KI/AAAAAAAABC8/TMazZQlEmmcGBwhdsLkfeCa9WwIrPzZawCCo/s512/steering%2B011.JPG)
Front of the engine going on:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MkY3vcWKSTc/V5gGeErM3rI/AAAAAAAABC8/CfTdFH-x_1MXJQFyQtDW4AK8yVT9YakgwCCo/s512/steering%2B003%2B%25282%2529.JPG)
Reverse rotation fan clears the radiator shroud:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sFdeQTCHRhk/V5gGol03klI/AAAAAAAABC8/A0DT1P04BpQvNqEjJ2sIWXpRtiDKRpkIACCo/s512/steering%2B014.JPG)
Built a bracket for the steering valve:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4C_5EvzWidk/V5gGqr16kqI/AAAAAAAABC8/7_YD0pjNt7oKqzOuUwnCTLf46ufctHqfgCCo/s512/steering%2B019.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xfs3SqV8u6Y/V5gGt1kL6kI/AAAAAAAABC8/m4-e5DblalQTTHj-ms0pTrF1evwclKAVwCCo/s512/steering%2B021.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8RFkAnXeuR4/V5gGve_YIHI/AAAAAAAABC8/iV-9hiNpv3A2sd9LR4ZpegM7AmR6R36CwCCo/s512/steering%2B023.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sqLjqluDGIQ/V5gGwZ5ESSI/AAAAAAAABC8/2UF1w7inCc8bUxUX-WU4uKyXG7Kix5eigCCo/s512/steering%2B024.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X2Imt4tAneM/V5gGxRlg-vI/AAAAAAAABC8/qN3TauZo5q8IZUyki8oiiTbkZafk0DQ_gCCo/s512/steering%2B025.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-10etnfEoznE/V5gGurw-xrI/AAAAAAAABC8/nS_khxjskTgVKtsleOq5s8a0MNJIqCshACCo/s512/steering%2B022.JPG)
Made some adapters so I could mount my 5-ton driveshafts to my 2 1/2-ton transfer case outputs:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CZOkg4ZuFkI/V5gGssxQTGI/AAAAAAAABC8/VwzIl0rp-0I6lgBbTSRublXD-4Zidl87wCCo/s512/steering%2B020.JPG)
Cut and shortened the 5-ton shafts:
The rear is a 1710 series:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7-IPOJTlxpE/V5gG2Cd7PjI/AAAAAAAABC8/R4ZQ0I6jpEgh2hnrv3jGEYHNCahudpvhACCo/s512/steering%2B035.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hT8R5qS4VEI/V5gG1DX-i1I/AAAAAAAABC8/OcH3F83NTM4CtRq9E7W-VChsBgPum2JhwCCo/s512/steering%2B034.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WRjxbKdi_nw/V5gGz-2j9bI/AAAAAAAABC8/jrdgue_daRcTHcdHQJJC7eXX4cIy1mBhgCCo/s512/steering%2B033.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3dvezxrzeKI/V5gGy7e247I/AAAAAAAABC8/Vg2ZDrVQMMwY_66-9urPyWqdzx1YABoAwCCo/s512/steering%2B032.JPG)
The front is a 1610 series:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Sai9BfgmWB8/V5_t-_k61LI/AAAAAAAABDw/jq5cZ2unhi4ZUaqO8iTcEtt02PTCn4lcwCCo/s512/030%2B%25282%2529.JPG)
This view shows how the front driveshaft, and front brake accomodate each other:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-icMk8iOQRRA/V5_uAk6mPNI/AAAAAAAABDw/VRkJd4jHR_QgH8S7llIK22gVYLvyL0-pwCCo/s512/033%2B%25283%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tMNwd7FJPiI/V5_uB9LQZEI/AAAAAAAABD0/9dt0ujAnCF4unBsGgBSfnSxUptCN8ZWWQCCo/s512/034%2B%25283%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HVpcaqKj8AA/V5_uCgcvbsI/AAAAAAAABD0/G0l0NJJQTuYvQnymUglR4tPgW63Hi0X1wCCo/s512/035%2B%25284%2529.JPG)
And once again, a good view of the driveline corridor with the drivelines installed:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-APBmVghR9pA/V5_uD7IC_fI/AAAAAAAABD0/nGETK0mB4k4k-HciMPeTQdw5gJ8yMBmVACCo/s512/036%2B%25282%2529.JPG)
Side on:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o8C9AF5mrss/V5_t_9Og4VI/AAAAAAAABDw/UpdOJm5eQh8XSWG_l1yt8HRilBvRX1a4QCCo/s512/032.JPG)
I shortend the driveshafts myself. I am proud to say they are in perfect phase, and I kept the runout at a minimum. .020" on the front shaft, and .005" on the rear shaft.......which is what could be considered perfect for a driveshaft this large.
If we go back and view this picture for a moment we see parts purchased in planning of the traction/ladder bars. Or as I have been referring to them "torque arms".
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qN1CrtJuOcU/Vb_zp1NfoeI/AAAAAAAAADg/04QAiP9vDAUSjYC6RYJyGV_iuxC55rS8ACCo/s512/Front%2BSteering%2B009.JPG)
I bought a stick of 2"x2" steel tube for the bars. A 1 1/2" merchant coupling was welded onto one end of the tube for the rubber bushing and the lift arm eye was welded to the other.
Partially complete:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dLBRlo4643w/V5_uEpu0ZfI/AAAAAAAABD0/sgBxa7j0ZIsZhpoVDPZ2CxnUD4ZUBFatQCCo/s512/037%2B%25282%2529.JPG)
Welding on the eye:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-itKz8d5W3us/V5_uFuQywoI/AAAAAAAABD0/FeFUS49wJ9ky71zcPhzDjCauH4ykx5xvwCCo/s512/038%2B%25283%2529.JPG)
The axle end:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lM3Z9V429IY/V5_uGUGcQTI/AAAAAAAABD0/UStTXZQeFQESwvXV3fVuTSa-3FtTMMpRACCo/s512/039%2B%25283%2529.JPG)
Center support:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QYrwmGlWc_o/V5_uHJAD6II/AAAAAAAABD0/Bw9Ys-N_VLsUQLbo0Yh71t1PbNtGFDwqACCo/s512/040.JPG)
And finally, the side on view with all of the suspension done:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3TE1HnPLlRo/V5_uIFl1rUI/AAAAAAAABD0/n_sRSXig4KIb8YdyiOufRaDmShCt5w_MQCCo/s512/041.JPG)
The suitcase weights are to simulate having the bed, and roll bar on. In order for the torque arms to be correct at ride height I needed ballast to compress the suspension to replicate the weight.
The above view was taken just hours ago. The pictures don't show it but everything fabricated that this post is about has been sandblasted, primed, and painted. The only thing not painted is the 5-ton driveshafts, and the torque arms.
I plan on sandblasting, and painting the 5-ton driveshafts, and the torque arms this weekend. Weather permitting.
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Well it's not mine, but it is a square body, and it is a monster truck.
At :38........ 8)
https://youtu.be/bLtZ3xvj6fI (https://youtu.be/bLtZ3xvj6fI)
At :28 there is a different square with a horribly bad cracked dash pad, and black painted mirrors...... :o
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LOL
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I was fortunate to see the awesome build in person. Such attention to detail. WOW! I got the $.25 tour, unbelievable to say the least. Next time I am down there you bet we'll meet up again
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Zieg
Come on down. I started painting my bed. I could use some help sanding it all down. ;)
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Zieg
Come on down. I started painting my bed. I could use some help sanding it all down. ;)
Not sure when so you may have it done before I get there...
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7Lgyai1nZRR4Jp9Ay_zwNN6o89X-nePxhnF_CBGQJ0YltJgFljgls4KKwUEb-oRdNyOxAxL40o_-bw=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3KAbGyGf97yvYe-Wa0YhzllAESEo4bvXH_HxY0v8wgRpHMZxlB8Z0PUFUU7aZACal2J4EcPMzLPWdw=w391-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d8OmiO9b0QMMYRSb4f7QpaK_SmrbQlUQ1Pd60ugshosklw1EprvUKT67G5Hsh3Chxa_uTIq9IKGfgA=w293-h220)
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What's it like looking down on 18 wheelers? :D
Looks like you'll need to take your hat off before you drive it out....
...maybe notch the door and header for the cab lights...?
...If you wrapped the drums in hard rubber, you could probably tow the garage around the lot, slab and all - top speed of about 1 MPH. :o
Actually, it looks might fine!!! 8)
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Oh, man. Its been a while. Sheesh. I have done a lot but between our aging dinosaur computer, and google's never ending crusade to make my life miserable, I haven't been able to post.
I think I have the latest google matrix figured out. We'll see. It operates with slightly less confusion than an infinity of mirrors.
Some time, a long time ago, now, I painted my bed. Like back over the summer, or some such.
upside down firstest:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DVxnJLtmBUhFB0fLDJttlJeMU-mKLbvXfqgWNvxJi9LuAwvwFPbRyvRfcEcMudiJUBcdoP7neldgng=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qe70VbUP6KYSeHJZ_HvFCQmOCnde-lSnI92qQ8c7INpmTgj1h01sZkiXFfm7g_YuwNUMUR8s5lbgZw=w800-h600-no)
Clean:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QRzsvkg24zsEo1yspgX0QJ6wNucx0fng1DVLz0ilE0LzuXDJCNtgyS_1OeVsXBemCfxJYosHpJjk-A=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8NsTFBu_Y-R02vTk_f70VprYxBNnaEHiFcg3eVxmrniDHV-W5mGovQl9n930vEPLx273PTjDhPlcdg=w800-h600-no)
Black paint:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uSc9czMUgTbTrsaxpN5tGbgQ_xbCxrtWzl0pcEQosDCOGQkgxX3dGrHsbYrPHEZRj4-yeRwXiAOKKw=w800-h600-no)
Purty, purty.
Off with the old GI armor:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xUDqfwpDxoNOHsyLzfv19vSgbwT4kozCCHVJeTyqHIfp4tbll0dZs63ondSfboIsIVfOMn-AutHL_w=w800-h600-no)
The test primer came off, too.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/epKD6TMsFU9sntikrbVO-srV5Tg1DFeKujJ9KngPqSeNYqfAgHXcJzx0_6GPIuEqvVmqeMidvnTzAA=w800-h600-no)
This body line was rolled. But with the help of my oldest son I was able to get it back to what GM intended:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2HOq4S9LQ-85TOOVPA4PxwmXMT99hBwW3wVvN_ryciCNH7Bg3F860Xf1JGnQWHNAIiAPS3Yi9E6bag=w800-h600-no)
More dents, and paint stripping:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kSHnZNTjrv5QMtoWz0iGskeP9_XSimutNp-ddWXPeAxE6oNA_PbYMpbJqy60qKDXZA4rm3Rp6cgfgA=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v3cXyDNo4yHu6PKIXu1MI0TSpjtA2pngugsbcfee-1kl7kg2ATD3DXpJnv7r0uZJQjkLVNxzMd1xQg=w800-h600-no)
After much sweating, we put on the signature epoxy primer, and then the 2K urethane high build:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/99_gDlH65hnY7f4pX6T4v4s6dyRohmYEQgl7GLOVPoDJXUDAeaP-nA-zsVHhYGwb8QduQIDzwouoTQ=w800-h600-no)
Even more purdy, purdy:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/flrHzZCkjfGYS-LeoslngBBGpmNiyc8WJL-uw_Ozt-2ZEttJ_WR8NBZ_uB0fzapS_YBaslHj-J33qA=w800-h600-no)
HA HA! How about that body line now? 8)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zU6Y6NFY8LSKdaI2inJPEFX01jp0icO0YefnNsCcc5rUMo1L8niilv_Wx2FLK_y-HowfUghKRrznQQ=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9TYTLjay-PgoWpW3QjJqsJoxUmK7cDfrgEJwhLKoDQtMV_m2dc6U1XMYf1xnnpbjfLwchnKBjjh5xw=w800-h600-no)
And then the basecoat/clearcoat:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S7WveKv3gfhOa0t0laHZloaW2NQneBFeWn2itIwCgCiGjpwR3J-WZDGE7EYieMVbWTBvIVv_FGijTg=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iIYbevpbbvanLjXps49YpfeiWU6kfGZazBBVvImyRpswUVdkvlyctYeGqDs8O3ngUo13KgJD3lxBIw=w800-h600-no)
Remember that rolled body line? Take a look at me now:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OEr18JDlU7AVK5gG-Ktc_a9RCVgHWDdYR65D2v0ti-kQAzmZ-zxFg91vgrRHZyleYdcGtfbXi2on1Q=w800-h600-no)
Let's get 'er on there boyz!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WH_usyARKquzu0HxlZ-hgxlweUZVnHUax3_9hr_YwWBrvesKmppQceqXGtu8Rg2EifZUmno-gm5Qdg=w800-h600-no)
Close up view of the clutch linkage after it was finished:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OHjl09UNIGjFVBCyLBqHaxLYGgotVQlw3zagtzjrfqtr6iBrXpe-mEkFnw-pVxxa_w61EjRNiB-3hw=w800-h600-no)
A close up of the firewall detail. The engine coil, coolant recovery tank, and the home made manifold that all of the gear boxes vent to:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hQUfQwMkV8I7crsJUqFZFGawjm_8oaxVaVmQlwK9KK1bCABd0HCjfPXz4c7Cn04f6wqGkMEGGsJbkQ=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HJv1m_CQJUrZMR-GKoT8tioEZeogs-_xI8Gu4XD7FM9GDNAACWEwl_V9agwrGxSrBzKIKiofC-K9Mw=w800-h600-no)
Finished the steering. Used stainless steel braided high pressure line, and routed it to minimise potential damage:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0swS345ypJ5DQTKzYWPb7Aepe_3macEa-fdzeKHfiKbkEk06jL0Do8IDGBe8Qdc3Cs_FY6NEjDH0Nw=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O5ZhFoUqAvasd_wsBPk4dEOfX8ucDoABKpsDpKiP74kPB-Za32upaxn6IrVuv8KOVyMFgDptiydwKg=w800-h600-no)
This is the cooler lines from the steering valve. I used the old engine oil cooler as the power steering's fluid cooler:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2swHS9LYJDD5zH4Lp0qJGCJ3jl4U8EVx2A3Ap0ruBgmvc2DEybgKOMUGcs2V5wGrlvcjOoow74Njng=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dGJwF55hiGzfTMpBwAzNZbcuEv93dB4oZGIBo1WuVmhfwlGTOPbmkhAxT02UFj4DjvlDPM0alKvIQA=w800-h600-no)
Power steering pump:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1y8yFOnwi5CVJBA_PD4eK9GGlcRDO9HPfACH1DdQs7lqRiJLFnHhduvZk-mEMUOXZVD42YF8ZZk1TQ=w800-h600-no)
A close up view of the porting work done to aid fluid flow into the pump:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bGwtXLBaoEcls1iuCNZzGHXA1v8o3oc8rnPxDXty97Bx9Dyk8Lu1RLzkrufdVjxrws5aAgB2ZogZBg=w800-h600-no)
I bought a steering reservoir tank off of an FLD120 Freighliner. I modified the bracket to use it on my radiator support:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SqEei3OQZi1lkhbQ8U00X0V2YiiMbqDFgt_BpXKIUAqqlvMX61RR5Je0rz3IAb8LhWNK8bNh3utV9g=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hgiWT8ovBxehtqYGqUlmRKZJVd8RUnmlxpG6_zmG3fvJ5wrU5ZARntniShi473rgGc72cbaqJimTDQ=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dwPNZCijZCy1kEAKyG8HsU_jPKopjfWvpNrjbGSyR4dMaMH60wi1HIlhCuGMFuKVsv4cg80z1K32zg=w800-h600-no)
This is the return line from the oil cooler.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LDSJ6D4rRNY9bP828AHzl15XHzfanvWUHkd2NPXaF31CRAGUxXoL02CXS1n4kad7bY9yaU2fuKS5Nw=w800-h600-no)
And this big ol' beast is the -16 feed line for the pump:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mk2hWYmCBcRUJyDcTnpyPBSLtvorS1J3NcN9y_6LvJurS2_QPVMhCZH6rjLXBjKD-XMfX67m_v7ltA=w800-h600-no)
Reservoir painted and -16 fitting installed:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LtwPNPOyrpyKu2_VK9JcxlWDSHf_pqaUh5vN_Y2pn2fketOSnicYDSzfC5Fzs4-ZeoBPKD5YYACsFg=w800-h600-no)
Standard "can-o-ham" tank with -16 fitting to be welded:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PiORcDdyYHqAooJbzhCjZ_LYxxvPqw8x3JQlzekMGuepNCilImUwTSbzv7W863Y4IPHgyLv_fOfgfA=w800-h600-no)
This picture shows my pump's back plate. It is the one on the left. My Saginaw pump uses .800" vanes versus the standard .600" vanes that 99% of all GM Saginaw pumps use.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/scB6nvwZFLqCfYEoAjuLbJmTR2kV3N13CJwRS_F1obCMmFAyxaJpOnQOo76KtLA3aJ_1uQHVEXfgQg=w800-h600-no)
Rebuilt, resealed, and back together with the pulley installed:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PpUobdCsefskoyfJcRqI3ytOSHerUjdeVkqbZrgVeMz-Qih5Po_wWh_dGpDh_O35phI5W5qcoYvISg=w800-h600-no)
Reservoir parts prior to finishing:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/riQGvolqQC4pSFKXDvlkk6YxmLLq8B_WJULthxJv-6H1wj_Nme9PQjNVrLUFCVVm9oZzWSwWEq6-dw=w800-h600-no)
And this view shows the pump, and reservoir after mounting, with the -16 feed line, and the -06 pressure line in place: (the alternator was just a mock-up piece)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jlIO5EyVa0Vs-tOKOncGKmMxyWvHlqcD2AFvg5Cq3YySotyo3tXz6BIbcctbmhdfe3TdWHbnfuk4qg=w800-h600-no)
I bought an ACDelco remanufactured alternator off of eBay for cheap. It was made to fit an '89 S-10 with the 2.5L engine. I didn't care. It was a 100amp model, and that was all I was concerned with. I simply changed out my front housing for the incorrect one. (the correct one is on the right)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OZHyRrD9HIvuNAQ6Jcjtl7qt3ai33FwSZEzQNKYdl2q2j7-C11BBYUIAQSWXpmoe81jh-el-STRhXw=w800-h600-no)
Voila:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zSewWxQzHwmiw8Ow6p_fm59ebY5n1OPMRDru3dfZMU5_njEwUY0Oph8el5IARyZF6SVaNa3rDL390g=w800-h600-no)
Right where she belongs:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9mE5VpHYQ5FRzeBfs9I7EAq2FZikl_LnHmR2BnXNDsA-vvz0BPRiSHCJRNEETOuWM5Iy8COi5b1snw=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d55dsymg54h5mnhBqfrIwWMFxjTLo9AOqOj2bLrS18S1qlQVsVZA3U_Q5f5Yy6EMtJKPv5Q31ymQyg=w800-h600-no)
These are the bed mounts. More on those later. These will be part of the hinged framework that will allow the bed to tilt:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LT2iAkgSAb-lij8QHrVV_vQgl7f8nrtnlu9o3pSj9wSWrlpELmsaGk-V1jrh1zm3iirbT6qzrRqA_A=w800-h600-no)
And finally, the roll bar after the paint was stripped, and the kicker bars were modified:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1blk1g7Xu17dxbUrZXypMS0zF9UAUS5tL0JmiiuMQGuZWnJVMlWLiVoW9_714FsBRn6Sicb7VGShNg=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5xSxdBS2FQm38tBfen2IIcXBAryTUZH6OIxGUm0-6FfktSeD-ImcTtD8TP2TNqTgWXvIHH4CWUXCfA=w800-h600-no)
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What's it like looking down on 18 wheelers? :D
Looks like you'll need to take your hat off before you drive it out....
...maybe notch the door and header for the cab lights...?
...If you wrapped the drums in hard rubber, you could probably tow the garage around the lot, slab and all - top speed of about 1 MPH. :o
Actually, it looks might fine!!! 8)
;D Hehe, the 18 wheelers will look up to me.
And yes, we are going to have some issues to address about the door before it leaves the shop for the first time. :o
And those rusty things are the military wheels with the rim flange cut off, not the brake drums. I have, however, considered wrapping them with rubber belting that I keep around. Going to need transporter tires for sure.
I go tomorrow, weather permitting, to a local fab shop that is cutting out my wheel centers. I plan to build 2 piece wheels so as to make mounting the tires easier.
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Excellent product as usual.
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This picture is my wheel centers. I will post pics later as I progress with this part but for now I can atleast explain what I am doing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XbF8y7lF3UuarRh3KWKiUkeiSHHK1u5QaulDuP_lOBK88rKEM0VG-rilUmSu8w07sZxNwSNaz2Qr_A=w293-h220)
There are 8 of these plates. Two for each wheel. They are 3/8" thick. The Xs are marked centers for holes. I'll drill the 10 in the inner circle to 13/16" for the lug studs. The outer ring of 30 will be for 1/2" bolts to bolt the two wheel halves together.
Many monsters today use two piece wheels much like the old Honda 185s and 110 three wheelers did prior to 1983. That is how I plan to do mine.
This is a 3D cut away line drawing of what I will be after:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f6jCuuc7A-8o2kx18LVILcVthTD0kt31XesVHv_Iehqhvh-fGcn23DdFAdR1cwVsi9qpHSk8y-Bawg=w233-h220)
Using components from the old agriculture spreader wheels I'll be able to make two separate halves with the proper back spacing I need to mount my tires properly on my truck. By making the two piece wheels I'll be able to seal inbetween the two halves easier than the ag wheels design of using a rubber o-ring that always seem to leak. The ag wheels are 25"x36". Mine will be 25"x 32" which is what all of the monsters are running these days. The narrower wheel, for me at least, should help my steering geometry by reducing the tire's scrub radius.
Also, I thought I would throw this into the thread.
Racing monsters have a couple of square body trucks now. If I understand my source correctly, the black truck made its debut this weekend in Southaven, MS.
The "Storm Damage" truck is just a better photo of the above mentioned truck from a prior post.
And the "Titan" truck , while not a 73~87 is a GM that our truck evolved from.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SyStaobQeZ3Avpl2YqKtBGiJloti668_-19zW2HPJespjTYCZjjDxUCXvCWGD_s5hSQq-Q0ijVr5Ig=w391-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c_VMSW2374kK28oW1oOjWlMZ1udA3wlogtS2Gbtm3vUPqTaRe4bTPUaHNt9pREramJirAQ3hbgiZbg=w330-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OqWlK5iSf1KGXsSFybeVZ8LdBjy_3odxVltfwWjJRHCHNLsgxXeEcO4_E9c_c7xUZZwxjwQCq0qe3Q=w304-h220)
Hmmmm..............
I can't help but wonder why I haven't seen any '77 Ford builds like mine, and why when vintage monsters are built on a tube chassis they are always GM square bodies. I know of a few more steel bodied GM squares in the build, or rebuild process.
I know there are plenty of late model Ford Super Duty builds, but I can remember back in the day how crazy the Ford camp was for their 80~86 trucks and the '79s had a cult like following. Now? Not so much?
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I always enjoy checking out the updates on your project.
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Well, I have been working real hard lately on building my wheels. Quite the big and labor intensive endeavor. Not to worry though. The reason for the requsite man hours is to be sure all is right and flaw-free. Remember that I am using a stick welder and that requires extra care and caution to prevent warping the work. And, since these things have to hold air, quality welds are a must.
Once I get all of atleast one of the wheels finished I'll post a step x step of the build.
Until then, enjoy a couple pictures of the latest square bodied, tube frame, racing monster.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9MEtFS1mgW_JTlVLk4erYaS8J62_G4XCJgXqyniwaZ3zprlaZm8Q6Vz_CvUYgQrxjLi6Ld11jqmAdw=w391-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AuilwNYfhOvc2GCHSacPAcOfJyowqqE6HQ7cgc8R6fMTFpeCWnjLnlxQhjtqcJdXs3ZKRY-JqUX00A=w391-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qTdkqEcb4rVfnK1vgBK_jdL4DvXbYhnwY-br8wgr53e0nBl_forDVqUQV0tVaIBnWwjVpm0kwP3KtQ=w391-h220)
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I love seeing updates to this!
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Wow 100,000+ views!
That should earn me some kind of award......hehe.
I have a lot done just been WAY too busy to post pictures. If I get this other truck project that took precedence done by the end of the weekend I'll update this thread with a few pics. Stay tuned.
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Looking forward to the update!
Sent from my Lenovo TAB 2 A10-70F using Tapatalk
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Ok, so pastor has asked me to bring the message Sunday evening during his absentia, and because of this I am finally at my desk where I can put together this update.
So here goes.........
Recently my family, and I attended a monster truck show in DuQuoin, IL. I had to share this because, well, you'll see..........
This is of course Bigfoot. You will notice the Ford Raptor-ish body........
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tj4Jfn2xGY_mFaL5WEfFqtjLjC1rE9TfL2q0lgsvp6OQF5XhqqE-Y7-U02N6R_Ynj2X8xyVFvRhJKA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ckM7gBLqYK9oeXOX0hoWH14YlSzxAEGVbm2ir_4hsAPkSzo7hNE0YG8ImAnzp1qao6BGENev6dvZew=w293-h220)
Now, observe the blown and injected Chevrolet big block engine:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_8RTk_uqP_np6hhbTYPGkw59TuvcpMdQvvMOdFIppw7cvbKVUDSUvKg7XRjSqdukNz2UwiD0piptpQ=w293-h220)
And some other points of interest from the pit party:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LrQkDssve1tKoWgxvt0e0YukspUmgDYITnauKsXgwvv9qKq5xhr4pTuzsTmq2cXq9NG8jN8KNn95iQ=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Nc5QFGHBWTIFl07IoZZmFff5gf_8ro5BRvgOxzZvF77Dc6fohIqX18MG7btz4mouAPKga9GfXEy9nA=w293-h220)
I finally have time to report some progress on my wheels so I'll detail that here tonight.
The original ag wheels are 25"x36". I wanted a 25"x32" with a 12" back spacing. Here is how I accomplished that.
Wheel build phase 1, the inside half:
In this first photograph you will see the wheel centers I had made for the foundation of my wheels.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Sf88SwP9Py026titRnuD0M_zYg0jFwFLHBkqDhIvVZ7utCZrqYhIqadHmpqxyelRjNPjrbRiD_AIYA=w293-h220)
As I posted earlier I will be building a two piece wheel similar to the 3D line drawing below. For those familiar with Honda ATC wheels of the early 1980s, I wanted to make mounting my tires easier and eliminate the leak prone o-ring that seals the outer rim flange to the inner wheel. And as a side benefit I have a much cleaner final product. Observe the final product and see if you agree.
The 3D drawing:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4FgqROEHqVItzD5B-VFJMw3o-jSkR3CFa92l5gQvkqd-pSyYTrhpOHR0pIvoLePgoTI9lbw46DaToQ=w233-h220)
This view shows the plates after I drilled them. In the first photograph you can see Xs laser etched to show drill centers. There are 8 of these plates in total, 2 for each wheel. The lug stud holes were drilled to 13/16", the outer ring of bolts are 1/2". As you will see later this is not the end of my drilling. -Ugh.... To get to this point required 320 3/16" pilot holes to be drilled. Each set of plates were paired and 160 1/2' holes were drilled. The lug holes were stepped through to the 13/16" final bore. The 13/16" holes were then bored for a total of 40 of those. In all there were 520 drilling operations performed.......and this, as I aforementioned, will not be the end of the drilling.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1kSIrnsaBVXWEvu3Wp3Xd1ErrU_1kZaymz1kpTFaJliqkK98LAIN7wWgigD8Eb_etOuh7AtKqPXLAw=w293-h220)
Then I had a local shop roll some 1/4" x 8" flat bar into these round barrels. These form the basis for the inside wheel tube.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cIT4g5NIOedWXA51iByQBBR3KTLfPztrqk5pvBoF8CIbE-cjDENMbPquZAoiozlMGZeteZTNNltOyA=w293-h220)
I then bolted the wheel center pairs together including a spare wheel hub in anticipation of preventing warpage from the welding operations.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AXNHuv-0pP7XX5FzpbHcKPO7IuZFVUTvdTzS1LW0jm8IrjWGqWMhx4XnS_OvecliJifbqU3XTOuJ8g=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A5ypH8z_E-zFgMRf3EQrSiXPYVOWcUEMlsvXH-3ggI6Jjdz3zRuo3qFrcoLp8IwG4JJby_q1NIz8vQ=w293-h220)
I then, using home made brackets, clamped and welded the wheel barrels onto the inner wheel center plate.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_qe0J7gKva21LobeBgM6PkDeWS7yqNXAu3DwS0b0-L7BG5vmoRfQ9ie2UlBdm7VGwis2piazojwn5w=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dsK7Nv9SQKqQP-yBi2vkc5_6TpIKNe-ZCrMUfntWer_JvuPWY563JQoKsNtSJcGnllp_KvLfU6sNhA=w293-h220)
Added angle reinforcements:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JHmfKZLyFQabSsBPBOBKDGj6cr81MhUa6kjaWrQ3VPBrdQ4tuTdT04oLujBd_diVHq2AzcpcvGhC_g=w293-h220)
And then I added the old ag wheel's outer rim flange to make the new wheel's inner bead:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aB_G_zwQ1w71YFCCnUEvjTj5NMEIw40UzYo4agCjfPawxzZJV74CTUKeVJ9jlzFjfVZNoJxj_Bdqvw=w293-h220)
And this is what the inner wheel half looks like after the fabrication process:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kiY_oHM2CeGkKe1AOOoB7WrH6NiBFewg8PSqsSQtItKTZtk3Nj7Y6o8mKQUpJPH9kZC5j36RmxcUcA=w293-h220)
Wheel build phase 2, the outside half:
I started by cutting the old ag wheel to the proper size + a smidge for the purpose of truing. The piece on the left will form the outer wheel barrel:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ClIj_ejeXvj9iYIxdSo0Lbjpg16u-Vt8wPV_j8lDHfhI_iWfivRG20hh39GpWYXAi-5my2sNnSNdNg=w293-h220)
Mocked up:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bHydHJlYjKva4_2ZYGYiDlOmWEB2ku8AfN0KzvIFt_jA0hqdNrX8YQu81QahfGXFRoVjWZLK1vkoVg=w293-h220)
Prior to paint stripping:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1ppmij8F50b1-kjqFco5eI0ngneaHnq0ansjAGPWz4u3qOtCcXDK3QnOYvIcGP2Qu9K6pWU-Fy9Nnw=w293-h220)
Set in place, trued, leveled, and tack welded:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iUdk-oylmNKFq4_FMzxQ2G5G0WrIccC_ARULt-LA_z7DlCuNng2fRLhBTvnGH9YMGF760e9-v2Rzlw=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4N_V65trNFf8mCtwjVYtUhKaKdO81rECHQB9utXCKajkCJcNlHKPEX4D0a_VDgGLk8VnwBczQ4stJg=w293-h220)
And the finished product.....or so I thought:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/00yNWrvC6UA00cNVYKKanYd-yD4_lndYOrH9j0r0Oz-ePC-bwWDhVNUabwigACdE94fjwe5du5h_ew=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KG-Sy-ibXjShMzvvY6splxCi6WSKEkMDu8R90gm8horZECLuTtPm1ac_qULCeQH472qFzSd0bmAeHQ=w293-h220)
When I took the hub loose I discovered the slightest of gaps in between the two plates that form the wheel center. Not good. While the seal will be around the outer ring of 1/2" bolts I couldn't allow dirt to intrude the area between the plates where the wheel mounted. A build up of dirt and foreign matter in the wheel mounting area would eventually cause the wheel to become out of true.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h0NcXeMVvRDmBKhH2ggaEiTlgNyPVmOgH6-OitNcRczk1dKvLU4t5j1wbYW8QF1oOaEYJdP6btY_2Q=w293-h220)
The solution as seen here in the centers for the 2nd wheel was to through drill the outer wheel center, and drill and tap the inner wheel center. Thus the wheel could be clamped at the center preventing dirt intrusion into the wheel's mounting area.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CQOpfBuTOv9xh4bbbRff2cTO_ZOxZa18tybSfQy8nCgXzHm_3mb9DfVdhSkLxXEfNMZmMK5Yynl2uQ=w293-h220)
When this action was deemed to be the proper fix it was applied to the first wheel.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T3WvSfgJc9OGo__q0O6ygBUOPzeDz-Y6s-E4L0j25r19bp9dmhEE37BY4bLxW0CQC3mCgXV7hd60cw=w293-h220)
And finally one wheel is done and ready for the sandblaster:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yMdLZGwwa5bEN1GKSCh9e3oxuE_jMEQpUnt0aG3sFrWMgodeQBLK-otqSjFq0DSzPUEsJy40qkEyQQ=w293-h220)
This is where I set at the moment. One wheel done, and one more wheel 50% done. There is an epic amount of work involved in building just one wheel. The first wheel took approximately 85 1/8" 7018 welding rods. Just for curiosity's sake I put all of my rod stubs from wheel #2 in a metal soup can. Wheel #2 is up to 50 rods and is only half way done.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xj7h7dlLiZOVcdJCQBHsLXwC-oSYgwlRV2XIHT9zetSdZ2ykTfGMXEGeDfPgk18TrdEVdNqCptivoQ=w293-h220)
One reason for the slow progress on the wheels is, well, life. I took on this project these last two weekends. a week ago I pulled this cargo box, and hydraulic lift gate from the junker F-450:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z2kUiZgBX-ZDul0fXkhian4t_-G7PQWHKUt4pAW2BWnLsKJ93xRqpqp6Rq2rYpikfDOEmDhSM6dw_g=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vO3k_x9TzUT4JPoSW_gqyFrl3Yc6lSAVNn207AGEssh_07RpLImo6XUvW6BaYaeeyGP8RPpMnHcSKQ=w293-h220)
Then on this most recent Friday I was presented with the Ram 5500. With the help of my oldest son we were able to lengthen the frame, and install the cargo box and lift gate by Sunday evening. I was up against the clock because the truck was scheduled to have its graphics replaced starting today. Whew. But we got-er-dun.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K2TY6SkCsLIuyVPP37hXKq2c1LCy1rLyN4aI2lNOqSiczdsSSvDjZQK8h4ivC60T5_vQ--aTU84qYA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WrV2d3Fi5mwwsGWpy8tjryAFw-G0dFsLlgKw8Z_vZnXQ_aetgE4uzNkbVE6e1so_IaSsPDz0SnayA=w293-h220)
And the finished product:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4XOV94M-8dzDfVZ7cbXTmJ0p9dX_wg3sUxHqscJrotxMwuJA9ndltbEITISnL_zvQiblalECzImFig=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TbtgT5JJovFfNkLzgkBCTeNocSWv-g-KgOr3iDu0XsnW0FITTYVcHOgOm4NKNYnnfHSHway8rH4t8g=w293-h220)
Now I have to give a shout out to somebody on these froums!
WAAAY back I bought a set of Kenworth gauges like these in this picture. They consisted of an engine water temp gauge, an engine oil temp gauge, an engine oil pressure gauge, and a voltmeter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ImVyy1hTtuXv12f67pfLz77cVe00sGFWbuPm_A2x9niZd00dJ5JN2zcVw6xkiA3d6vFj9VsEJSwpcA=w295-h220)
In this thread, linked below, from a LONG time ago....I asked for help finding a suitable VIN from which to order the correct sending units to make these gauges operate.
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=21355.0
Well forum member "ehjorten" stepped up big time! He gave me all the pertinent poop right from his desk at Kenworth engineering. I have since annoyed him relentlessly for help in finding the values for the fuel gauge sender that I bought in the gauge set below:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NWhGvWInGG-X696mMDZfnCZynYHHZ5e3JPP4TrwIebxM5GwXveAu7JZwOfdOgIlrVNedRsGHxmNqIQ=w293-h220)
I also plan on using the duplex air pressure gauge. The green (primary) needle will indicate my reservior level, and the red (secondary) needle will indicate when I have air to the cylinder that will tilt my bed.
Also with ehjorten's help I bought this recently. This is the coolant temperature sender I first asked for help about.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RO72w9u8ocnRR-M1YDdwPoTuzmDXFbIafkq_c05-P8HTUYakti4p0dlrti7ewKdfVVxMFpl5pADtRA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uYdTosDrRECpGjDACYmJzBF_4pbZtdUFYLOVWee5hkxFokrkhW5TMq3e4UqZktV8RsbULMmVdBi_ew=w293-h220)
Thanks again Erik! Your information has been of great value. And don't forget I want to know about the W900's successor as soon as you can release that information. (wink, wink)
While I am on the Kenworth subject, the Kenworth T-370 in the following photo uses the SAME Signal Stat cab lights our 73~87(91) trucks use......hmmm.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ApcWwIwtPDSrYrWlKuJnWr64KOWnpv82SWOiqpShPqELwHDffBUWhyfTHKhXQugAe1dcQWNogtDK2Q=w293-h220)
Now let me see......what else do I need to talk about tonight........ho hum......OH YEAH! I 'bout furgots......
That's just a pile of junk you say? Well let me explain. I started collecting pieces recently for an evolution to this build. I am thinking about taking my serpentine belt assembly back off at some point to install a short water pump. Oh, and I'll need the services of a smaller distributor. HEI wont work. My 454's original distriutor with an electronic conversion to eliminate the breaker points should fill the bill. Why would I do that you ask? Patience, I'll get to that in a moment.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Hrr5uhm4lIjHd2rBqfFll8jKcodGDafknI2YPm9kh7h29AHTAVy-ij7jWdBMVMM8CvQ8a-5x5RgBBQ=w293-h220)
We have another good friend on this forum who helped out recently with a request that I had in this thread:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=34652.0
As part of my evolving monster truck build vision I decided I may need extra the cooling capacity of a diesel radiator. These radiators take a special bracket to mount them to the radiator supports. Our good friend and fellow forum member "fitz" stepped up an sallied forth the most precious brackets. A big thanks to you as well, fitz.
Now you are asking yourself "Why, Eng, you have the big 454 radiator already. Why do you need the diesel radiator?". Well, reliability is paramount with EVERYTHING I do. More engine = more heat. So, continue on in this post..............
Recently the big brown truck of love made a stop in my driveway and showered me with affection aplenty:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IgtyEYcam_4AIwy0eKaSWiWZYc_6fnWacNV4XBxdjQXU59nC-RGJFJwT_DWgcA0PE2HlkmE_duOvmQ=w293-h220)
Yup, that's an old school 6-71 GMC blower sharing shop space with the ol' munster twuck. Hehe.
25 years ago I bought a blower core EXACTLY like this one. I bought aftermarket bearing plates, race bearings, seals, and many other accutrements for making a 454 breathe. But truck pulling had no welcome for such wickedness so I sold it. Now, I have a chance to get the period correct blower for my monster truck with the GMC case and I jumped on it.
I know what you are thinking......"Eng, why did you buy a 6-71 blower already built when you have the skills to rebuild one yourself?" Well since you asked, it has mainly to do with time. It's been almost 9 years on this build. I want it done this summer.......
Well when the neighbors noticed the big brown truck in my driveway it wasn't long before word got out and I had a crowd..........
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MahLtgwFsArnDNRICYm7tcKNZgs7M3O0P9yhehkAbKCGHVu81frnTCDln74O0uLhwnY2-xRfPlXovA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OBbGbf55nS6-JkJ-7BThvLNcV7eh2y0Fjq-3-WkWlbRbihP02npDrw9RdxTCTGU2jIok_RMgn-5dBw=w293-h220)
Of course, the topic of conversation turned to bench racing........
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/niF05VlcheEbJh7uRqIZRMcitaHAnvQ3vcpciqwwv1wM14_HXFBv5JIE5OwItorUpB8WGDbQ9N2YHQ=w293-h220)
My full time security guard Hershel stopped by on his rounds and Jimmy was telling him how nitro fuel injected, supercharged, big block Chevys with open headers cost him his hearing......
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WLUwbAtm-l3id9YHxAuNXI3TRBNMB5Xt1yLWyAu0WYeN1TQTCtjezTmGWx-EK_3cZ9-uRzJ72d9oGg=w293-h220)
And of couse somebody had to break out the suds and it all went down hill from there.............
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mv1mxurseZSjFch_X849Hx7o_mnRYxNwT_CumuVVdGZkSzHdseMHaRVN_9svLEMsnqPVY6PJBx4VDw=w293-h220)
Been doing alot of research. I really, really, really want a Birdcatcher on top of my 6-71 blower. Based on early assumptions I should be able to make the constant flow fuel injection work with E85 in my application and not have to revert to the way more expensive EFI.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/irkBIZAueoqcG6L5iHvfzc4qB7fT9L2kyAP-eFzukH8xi5jQAzKcbQlKjO0Y1Q29kHGQIpsOnIo3Bw=w276-h220)
auf wiedersehen
-Eng
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:o oh gosh, i think hes lost it (http://www.naioa.com/v2/modules/Forums/images/smiles/lol_hitting.gif)
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I am afraid I owe someone an apology. When I was giving shoutouts in my last post I looked back through this thread and realized I never gave credit to "zieg85" for helping me with finding the wheel opening molding over my rear tires.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3KAbGyGf97yvYe-Wa0YhzllAESEo4bvXH_HxY0v8wgRpHMZxlB8Z0PUFUU7aZACal2J4EcPMzLPWdw=w391-h220)
Since I have all of the stylings of a 1991 V-series, these include the body side molding, the series model badging (Bow-Tie 3500 on the BSM vs. "Silverado 30" on the fender), the V22 horizontal headlight grille, black windshield lock strip, etc. I had to have the matching wheel opening molding to complete the ensemble. I found nos items for the front at a dealership in Mississippi. Then somehow, I don't remember exactly how but zieg said he had some for the rear that I needed to finish the trim out. zieg even went as far as to personally bring them to their new home.
Carl, I thought I mentioned this in the post about the painting of the bed but obviously I had not. So, my apologies and don't forget to stop by when you're in the area and check out the progress.
Let's see now, ehjorten out west, fitz in the east, and zieg85 in the middle, man this build has become a nationwide effort.
Thanks again everyone. Hopefully I'll have this ole crate done soon.
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I'm going to drop back in for a few more shares.
Here is an actual photograph of my first set of Kenworth gauges. I ordered the sending unit last week to make the fuel gauge work. Now I just need the guy to call me back that is going to build my fuel cell.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9uq8Au-mlNHFkRcvnr_coflyqsuIJw9quziNECDWOTRT88YLxkv67gZ7gAbS2GWedfbfc1FCMTvwtw=w295-h220)
I bought this yesterday. It is a short water pump for a big block Chevy. This is necessary to run the cogged blower drive belt. I am probably going to build some of my drive parts myself. I can save a ton of money that way.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nHQ8tpEqiuQ758YEMFifMHf5RSzUcDG_EEKp7zqIKERX6-8UFT2hdXaUmcqozEQm3S9HimOsT3wMdA=w293-h220)
This is one of the parts I'm thinking of building. Maybe not exactly like this but similar. Or I may order this one. It is a water pump mount for the idler pulley. The big determining factor is using it with the water pump. This type of bracket isn't typically used with a water pump. However, I think this bracket gives the blower set up a cleaner look than using the blower mounted unit, or the swingarm that clamps to the blower snout.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a3hgb3cl19L4Izs4-Z-ekJXzplht-YaeYQf_0fULUfz_7Y75RUwmtK0IkqwnoQu-J2tVSSvLp1XAPQ=w342-h220)
Here is a picture of the intake manifold I intend on using. It is a name brand intake only without the name brand's name on it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7erGQh-yYe-V70gV3QK77idz4M_Lv3zfGQnM7JeH_XOdXYFafrc6KUKj0f28U-4Nu_RlbvjALzJPeQ=w330-h220)
I found this on a google search. Not sure who this engine belongs to, but this is very close to what I am looking to build for the monster. The major difference being that I'll have a water pump, and instead of the cam driven constant flow fuel pump I'm looking to use a belt driven type.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tdD-kK0GJQ2sFcf-TcKBNzqVkuC-kfbogJGv4xfn06kQz2fsHUJ7nSBiQl52A3e8-V03H-wwdH5_HA=w189-h220)
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New Page! lol
Well, I have my exhaust finished. Added the tail pipes recently:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ldqngluj2pcOslZw-zmhzc4-plt5taZoF5AqgnNrXhA780pepC7nhGZKGp9T5iIXVk6AwxJq7jKYmw=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L3wy1ZcOCBxRnxub_GgMM_XLcSHMhbEX0EVd2PxTOsemJay0hDZImDuDTE_QfvjXW2l2cpodbCHu6Q=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ta7l_nREHVFh5DsoOtvA3nSdMjM7ZSgPUJihVqtBguUQaG3dLN1jcCDPq23zXyaUiUP9FSq4vynLxg=w293-h220)
Cleaned up the water pump pulley for the blower install:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q7X1RlQ4wAqYEBt15RpqRns8tTzKPSjG3J0yya3s7Tw1P3GfzORNBdlB1WaijoUSzOO3Wp9BxKJe7w=w293-h220)
This next picture requires a little bit of explaining. These two carbs are 600cfm AFBs that I plan on putting on the blower. They are both carbs that my son aquired through truck swaps. He never could get them to run so I rebuilt a Quadrajet for him to use in their place.
Well I have done some reading and it appears the AFBs lend themselves very kindly to a roots blower. According to one source I found they are more resistant to the brraaap brraaap brraaap brraaap lopey style of idle that is the sign of a bad tune. They don't need the power valve referencing that a Holley does, and since they are free I will only be out the cost of the rebuild kits, jets, floats, and primary needles.
For all out street performance I would select Holleys over the AFBs. The AFBs come up a little short on feeding a blower in a race application but this will be a engine built around looks, and the wow factor, not go-fast. Eventually I will get the Enderle Bird Catcher, but these AFBs will allow me to get the 6-71 blower on sooner rather than later.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WdP7bpFNQjOeeSsjTfJ8qrNMT6RExl0GQhuNh-dBQMDyGDQ5ulBBC7vKG64CiKsUBrfwRjwI3n0CTg=w293-h220)
Here is a picture of 2 AFBs on a 6-71 Jimmy blower.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h_vRw20Agt6uFeEGKrPlrqPxeuvBEsEIPdocHW1lCQhcKSlrF-YzmpitSq3qQ5fuiBGUwqNPVpUuuA=w306-h220)
As time allows I have been working on the wheels. I have two completely finished and a 3rd 50% finished. The 3rd is a little more work. The outside of the wheel is from a Dayton (spoke) wheel application. In order for me to use it I need to remove the old spoke clamp rings.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mu7xo-3ES4J7siQaS2wVbMNqqiShu3YDKTZ5BnskK19fZtA0EAWOQ6zw3kpHfhaXTvKmoeChHW6-4g=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8N4nVKC-E9lHloWhra-aUo6cdFqZ0Fbv2eIuyb7OZtS8S5coGKvF3UxFZpdY23WxCT6RdTsPnQlxBQ=w293-h220)
And with the rings removed, I cut the outside wheel to length:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2-KdqJ-vYr0cx2oI18gs39tH3udSv7znBWgJibiByOsrMJ1cloG6QiAy6mJaS0ByDmmwLntJ8iwYtg=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_i0Q4DvWbM-RR78cwUjtXGFhEe6OkH8Nhgz4EFe_ixdotLD0-UJInPB1osAXpdQq_sNIe_s-y0mMFg=w293-h220)
2 wheels done, and a 3rd well on the way:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k5mdpQ5iTmVQcuoHLgF3EVztW_-hAiTDFk6_n9A8kjcWW3PzI97kwoGSTlM1lGyxtpaKYKgouMn_QA=w293-h220)
I have the frame for the bed done and the bed has been permantently installed. I forgot to take pictures so I'll add them to a later update. Also bought a new aluminum 20 gallon fuel cell, pics to come as well.
Bought $400.00 worth of paint recently to paint the roll/light bar and the wheels. As soon as the last wheel is done I am going to paint these 5 items. Then I can mount the tires. (YIPPPEEE!!!!) After that the truck will at least look done even if there are small things left to do.
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Well, this thread keeps getting looks but no comments. I guess everyone is still interested in a monster truck build. Hmmmm....... or maybe the views are spam bots. LOL
Anyhow, I added the rollbar recently:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iBcvr0VAa5SgOHol0aslr-qHFYeeEt4hz-vynceZnqYjyE_11EEIKkHhsQKTGLuKfkF5f0SdDwdsHpTp6w=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZJdMRCkssKmAhqCUciAbqlLSe2RT3dgxQtNO-tcbl7g9aOaJkJD8uqAWpEEfOxPYISsISrne4KThHpe3UQ=w293-h220)
Sorry for the poor lighting.
Before I installed the rollbar I finished up the mechanism that will allow the bed to tilt. And then I tested it for function:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CAJD0G1y2ortZ_SflsMR1PxJaFDIMRG3NGd3n_SnawmVWlXUPp97FTyLRwD7J6LAlDkW_YLHse386sE5Jg=w293-h220)
I have the last tire off of the wheel. This is my best tire. It is almost brand new. Hopefully someday I'll find three more to match. Atleast I have a full set of 4 Goodyears that match in spite of their tread depth.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SjTnlOiddPDZR5mFTnIT5rMffts6KHE3oynXKLw9N2CdhHr2pR816hlzA1uQDrGc4VSpyQuonxa8R_aYrA=w293-h220)
Sandblasted the rollbar:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eO-ARDZEDBy4c1pXXmnxGLX3Lr2yQ-UBaPOCdvH2F1_NHvFVOuo9IMTM_kZP0dycaDgzpCOACitoPUc6A=w293-h220)
Primer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FHeJjrM7hf-U37vYdDsXwVNiUbBBRsDL2mh5yNcObB2dZIZ3VLfG1u8I-w-4lE08yc7qcdiknRw_i4wwlg=w293-h220)
Paint:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vdUZunLWlBqpRwmLoCmpbT7ku9JaxWSz3LNyFVAglVBjoVio-QQWm6nmG6KYh8ZhOSpdrLfhEF4CQbCU-g=w293-h220)
Added the off road lights:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mQWRpXzQq8bWAI5rCUTjYwmYGMF6cRydciHw6p9GUTCRVMDYzC5f6j9i-VZ9yHZngmCtSFUhLjNNtfoCEQ=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DLsRaEV5ygPZZntOYUu0SgGkuKuhepW2lCxv78K7szqdgXBI2F3YvUWLquK9NQnvWDJHRP61WVK-GCIofg=w293-h220)
Finished the wheels:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lKbXtsL1kC470YXI7cd84KURShKWSe0pP7yZKbzLOjc_6DGyjfgQS09iQ7jrKZsHhlvU7Qkj3X789oso0g=w293-h220)
A little test sandblast:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xQqLH5qkBo_C74O62S5CT7UvCfJbng8a9li6JifpL_jwx1mEr2GuVENDLo2ZreIxoFbEC_uxa1ET0belCQ=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QXFIyulhRVde_iJr2XeQuP_Xr2JJK6lulp9uUHb8IKh8APkONKzB5_vuOOVpqlTh46dc0b8qnSk6CURuXg=w293-h220)
Primer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kxPJ-3r3qlFrMGz8EZQ4rJMSCvQiW9-_m2RbwtVGtFqDiQznne4Mf53LhYuHq-72kmN5QFE1zKxrUE1HjA=w293-h220)
Paint:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6Xf8T-x2B2Aw84OPVHQnQpifGkqQHHNg4HP_FIRbBpoi8WWGawIAGO5Hz7G_8YN3NvnVKO--jC61x-BsHA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_7pLGwM9G8bKr-sUZe10qIqpJqmXO3mE88EIDT2QmXrEaFWEiMoEZQ9DuCf67vRohFQwzggrR-2yU-Agfw=w293-h220)
I bought the most luminescent silver I could find for the rollbar and wheels. It's not polished aluminum but it should be acceptable in the sunlight. WWAAAAYYYY cheaper than trying to get this junk all chromed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RRC0JJQbyFWcjj-m2x0R69NQHQkGInRQb_kq0nzXjhOibWoJBn7ij4uTUVvGXkh3sj_HK8JvQe3jIZ5S0w=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CeaIFiNG5n7SdBU895PqquSOp845eFo5H7Hoa93D3WaLrYEus_yKhFBJ2uh4Sz1SUrT1Kneu802TU6qRHg=w293-h220)
Spent a wad of cash for the gaskets to seal the 2 wheel halves:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K9--iL8sEmlkksIYmr1r0r4r-hYWd814bY-KyiXRmvifQoma2VJVZcGHsz0rMkGaFeM8SF2VZOpWNKDm8g=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/68JaBfmmD73BM3SZfVhWQhEH1Hy65MyLOJ5COgSzYeXk07Hu-5T1gyNbSkh-CIQdntgWwG_MS6re1UU9IA=w293-h220)
Bought a bumper for the rear:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JTjJILjBlveCYxhASwyFYdEZzIsAHYK8JlwXY2kw8TNtLOonKmKM8CYu2lff9G5RpNrXSrDYo70ZgTAq_w=w293-h220)
And a 20 gallon fuel cell. I need to modify the tank to take the sending unit. The sending unit should be the correct value to work with my Kenworth fuel gauge.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vbnWHgwGGgIZTNeyyIibQRty19A2mqQ_wh_TwmeVUqwxwxgM4TAf0CSDNhxq2lrrcePV0d-sUmU12F4Aig=w293-h220)
And where would we be if I didn't add my off-topic bonus postings?
Would somebody feel sorry for me and set up a go-fund-me account in my name so I can buy this sweet W9?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F2tFxZLEs7rTp5sl9dK4zrRCsjsUIjMtf9u8hzguu8ZOqx7W3iRiAO4-a5_r17kUxyrwU613K6mYuEncMw=w293-h220)
Hehe, just kidding. Or maybe not.
But since we are on the subject of big rigs, I found this Chevrolet 18-wheeler from times gone by. I'm glad I never had to do a west coast turn in this. It's pretty cute and all, but........
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bPhXUDPAl1hI1B99Tt2g1rTpS4OG7M7j8d2JpTCh5k1rKgG0oHe10yt5Ll4TDr3qSJm3yoFSYgq56DvGfQ=w293-h220)
And I took this photo recently of an awesome B model Transtar. I can remember seeing these as a kid brand new on the dealer's lots. Ugh. Does that make me old?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_oC_1JAqp8wF-lPReU3G7TzA2ZFP__tu5IGimLAumWcE7045ZCpkMXvTQf0WQ7kUDtpuMgllZ6wRoeFRLw=w293-h220)
I'm out
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NEVER OLD!!! Just experienced! 8)
I worked on those, new.... Maybe I should have kept that to myself.... :o
Engineer, you are in a league of your own. It's always a pleasure to stop by and gawk at the innovation and quality of creativity I observe in this thread. It will be a solemn day when you finish, if not quietly plaintive... unless, of course, you begin and are willing to share a new project! :)
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........been searching Craigslist for square body ('82~'93) S-10s. Wife wants hers in red. I have another set of 5-tons spoken for, and I know where the remains of a Terra-Gator is that has 3 66x43-25 Firestones to match the one spare I already have.
I can't stop glaring at a picture of Little Bearfoot that I have.
Can I build an S-10 on this board?
As far as this project goes bd, I plan on taking this truck to shows. There is one of the smaller promoters of monster truck shows that is interested in having me show my truck in the pit party. And I could probably get it to Bigfoot when they have their open house every year. I want to get it done before I start shopping it around. If that ever happens I'll post about it in here.
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I saw it in person, work of art!!! Always see the updates, keep em coming
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Looks awesome! What did you use for the wheel opening moldings the 89-91 Suburban trim? That's what I am using on mine for the smooth style.
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Looks awesome! What did you use for the wheel opening moldings the 89-91 Suburban trim? That's what I am using on mine for the smooth style.
I know the answer.... Yes
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We are still interested, I just red the last 3 pages I haven't seen in awhile. Life has been crazy this summer, haven't been on the site much. Truck looks awesome tho, part of the reason I come back on is to check this build progress.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
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This weekend I filled all of the gearboxes with 90W. 1 gallon in the granny low 4-sp., 1.5 gallons in the Rockwell 2.5 ton transfer case, and 3 gallons in each axle. For a total of 8.5 gallons.........not quarts, gallons.
The 5-ton hubs run on wheel bearings packed in grease. Not sure why but I assume it has to do with the ability to ford deep water without contaminating the oil that lubes the differentials. There is a seal that is sandwiched behind the wheel bearing nuts that seals against the outer race of the outer wheel bearing to keep the oil and grease separated. I plan on tossing this seal so as to have a normal oil bath hub like our trucks use in the 10.5" 14-bolt FF. After adding the oil to the hubs this should require an additional 2 quarts and that will have me at the 9 gallon threshold.
A couple other projects this weekend was to install the plastic reservoir on my go-fast type brake master cylinder. I originally bought this as a weight saving measure when I was building the truck as a puller. If I had not already gone this route I probably would have used the standard GM master cylinder and the dual circuit system to separate the front from the rear.
And I started punching out the holes for the wheel gaskets. My wheels are a semi-untested design. I use the word semi because the racer monster trucks use a 2 piece wheel but they don't clamp together at the wheel mounting flange as mine do. I need to be real careful clamping these together. If I have a leak repair will not be easy.
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I forgot to say the reason for the master cylinder reservoir install was so I could fill the brake system with fluid. The steering system is completely finished, it needs filled with hydraulic oil. The cooling system is complete but needs anti-freeze. All of this so as soon as I get the carburetor rebuilt, and the wiring finished, I can start up the engine for the first time in many, many moons.........and potentially take it for a drive.
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This weekend's work consisted of FINALLY assembling the tires. :)
First was finishing the gaskets that seal the two wheel halves. The first is a photo that I posted earlier of my 2 piece wheels. Me being me, I wasn't satisfied with just replacing the center of the old ag wheels. The gigantic rubber o-ring that seals the demountable side bead ring on those have a tendancy to leak with the least, slightest provacation.
So I set about building wheels to my specification. One of these being ease of tire assembly. Sorry, I didn't take any in progress pictures. I'll see if my oldest son did. Working with a 1,000 pound wheel and tire assembly isn't your typical trip to the farm and home store that also services lawn mower tires.
Basically I set the long side of the wheel on the shop floor, hoisted the tire onto it, added the gasket, and finally dropped the inner side in and bolted it all together.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1sSMAIalO8ZAoqHEGES66hzzF6qu7klVMQrO4nXK1VvAgBj6tX67U8R3TywKHr7sCuy8f_PgnpLZQtUTAg=w293-h220)
The gasket: No, it's not die cut, I free handed the cutout using an exact-o knife. Ok, so maybe it is die cut, sort of, using an exact-o knife and the wheel as a guide.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lydaaz-W0f-dk7V78V8s_vXWW4jXAKb3umzEmlzeqUyZhqGGI3Gzu8-bveWKN3KTlxuL3eDc18RiI0V02A=w293-h220)
And the completed product:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8IRw0KWUroI7TAn73QhauJLMBhgPr1IccG0v4yfgUClvP3TmTVcoO8MLb3lo_PGypGAO0QdVC2zhXwDekQ=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oxGTLQfCfx73YvguIps6pyVjko1wz5Jv7BotfpA1VwRlWO24lA-cY6kUCuhJgAQmDF1YEmVJPMn_-22eWg=w293-h220)
I'm thinking I can just use the force to lift my truck and slip the tires on the hubs. If Yoda can pick up an X-wing fighter............
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qupoIhszDsDj-6VRXGPEcCJs_aoKbngjNmxqGUK-Mm7YeNT6VkL0ee9VuYIOAsE34VdpC3EM7qjsQx9JQA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H_2c8eafftkgpWDkD2wDoEJhzGhuiqOmd6v5YW8R9YF6cspqpd6D5ADGyh8ZxiEXQUXmsXX2dyfHC9bxIQ=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/er3SwkD5NgI8x9xCavOCq6Fpre-HISchreu4p7Hb9-aRU0iE3CxvxidUfYf0tMFvrbS75Uj76kLcX0yYQQ=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BZzFsQ6ptUdWydxYwZUx3eLXRQng_bfLSDgUEFirX8soifhyE0lxXaSPfGyFo_DeuQsJATfCErKkS_7ogA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ww7w7FFTnw9gWMHggwUMx7bbhlFjTJvWINCcjC3eJMLzimENu2kC4NOAQn4YYTo2U3Tl9YPn1mPgerwUqg=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fE6mAcoML5AXpVJL8gRq1FfR2a2XeSyWKJi97tCihZ_D57B8aP12eGFfXXSjHYoGHtfIqCRmwv2vat8Xcg=w293-h220)
And this week's bonus posting isn't the fun type I normally like to put in these pages, however.........
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4QNw4tYwqCD5AfyfU5egSj6bY8Y-kCN37ZypJk8aCozy5NaI8MS2XKYCZIHFYAKg78IOI1VE5sxcGAZDhg=w293-h220)
This 18-wheeler is operated by our church association. We use it for disaster relief. It contains a portable kitchen that a crew will use to cook meals for disaster victims and relief workers. The Red Cross provides the food and the Southern Baptists provide the truck/kitchen and the manpower. Early estimates are that it will be needed to provide at least 10,000 meals a day to a tiny portion of the hurricane affected area in Texas.
I took the above photo after I drove this truck to the flooded areas in Southern Missouri and Northern Arkansas earlier this year. Thankfully I will not have to drive it to Houston later this week but I may be called to go get it after the emergency has passed. Remember those folks in your prayers as they deal with this situation.
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The 5-ton hubs run on wheel bearings packed in grease. Not sure why but I assume it has to do with the ability to ford deep water without contaminating the oil that lubes the differentials. There is a seal that is sandwiched behind the wheel bearing nuts that seals against the outer race of the outer wheel bearing to keep the oil and grease separated. I plan on tossing this seal so as to have a normal oil bath hub like our trucks use in the 10.5" 14-bolt FF. After adding the oil to the hubs this should require an additional 2 quarts and that will have me at the 9 gallon threshold.
I'd be interested in knowing if this will work, I have an M35, 2-1/2 ton axles, but similiar, I'm pretty sure the inner seal (where outer seal is the grease to oil seal) isn't meant for oil retention, and so these can't really be successfully converted to oil bath. But that's just what I've read.
Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
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Relevant to this thread:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4843602/Fleet-MONSTER-TRUCKS-roll-flood-hit-Texas.html
And
http://www.missourinet.com/2017/09/01/missouri-baptists-lend-a-hand-in-hurricane-region/
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The 5-ton hubs run on wheel bearings packed in grease. Not sure why but I assume it has to do with the ability to ford deep water without contaminating the oil that lubes the differentials. There is a seal that is sandwiched behind the wheel bearing nuts that seals against the outer race of the outer wheel bearing to keep the oil and grease separated. I plan on tossing this seal so as to have a normal oil bath hub like our trucks use in the 10.5" 14-bolt FF. After adding the oil to the hubs this should require an additional 2 quarts and that will have me at the 9 gallon threshold.
I'd be interested in knowing if this will work, I have an M35, 2-1/2 ton axles, but similiar, I'm pretty sure the inner seal (where outer seal is the grease to oil seal) isn't meant for oil retention, and so these can't really be successfully converted to oil bath. But that's just what I've read.
Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
I ordered 4 of these seals. They are the same for all four (six) wheel positions on a M-39/M-54 et.al.
These particular hubs seals are for the M-900 series 5-tons. The trucks have changed significantly but the Rockwell axles have not.
Anyhow, you can see the double dust lip, and it has the garter spring which is the exact design of the oil seal that GM uses in our 14-bolt 10.5" ring gear axles. Also, it appears to be no different than the 100s of oil bath seals I put in OTR big rig axles when I was an 18-wheeler mechanic.
I also have read that the military axles can't be oil bathed but I have no idea why that would be true. I'm going to do it my way and see if it fails. My years of experience is telling me to try it. If it doesn't work I'll find a different seal that will work. It has to work, I don't see how it cannot.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UYhzEX0ufTau5OeLrwuKMfTfsKaikEwOoY-mUFsuog6D_PA05TF0tkfTd8GyuAAfODiqkoksQ5qko0WMJQ=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cgG2kdPyymcojGIwM8kSckh2PCXuIw_gTuXMS9zulz3Dp57oegudPmL4kr-3rwFojm8s5GjVlSC4-eMw2g=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BC-G-48gLaInJ8yi6TXGO7k3CZ01k6nST3R5yN0Hf3lmcyNYglVnZqDz4wcBHz7sU2tgPqul0oyC2aAFxw=w293-h220)
If guys are having problems with these seals leaking I'm guessing they have mud plugging the vent tubes on their axles. In all my years of wrenching I have only had one oil bath seal leak and it was a GM 14-bolt with a leaky hub seal. Not pinion, just hub. Replacement leaked as well. Finally blew air through the vent tube and replacement seal never leaked again.
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Well, I was curious, so I started digging, and one of the issues was where the fill plug was-too low to allow oil down the axle tubes, the other was actual hub design and allowing enough oil to the bearings. All this on a 2.5 ton axle, not sure how much different the 5 ton axles are.
But it seems like a higher fill plug would solve the major issue.
Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
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Enjoying reading the progress
Gonna be a fine looking truck
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When I get my monster truck done this is what I plan on doing with it........
https://youtu.be/lmhKttIQOws
OK, maybe not a chance I'd do this, but if you have never seen this video it is well worth your 1:50 of time. I'd normally add this to a post as a bonus but I thought it was so cool it needs its own post.
And check back in a couple of days. I've done some more work on the truck. A couple of cool updates. I need to sit down at my desk to catch up on some vital paperwork when that happens I'll update my build.
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This update shows us working to finish the hood:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A48FqcPwEP6C8Xfwc0k5aydU1pGxrDDlPUWP0tOagwAyp1OfGbF1RQeyUYX-Kfjd8FZaKXRSGsbt7s1v6Q=w293-h220)
Painted the bottom a glossy black.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qLdUvueIuhoWlYkLJ2vkCPIOvp8R5sMJqFEQrWQiNtJkbUgRRmcst4TAQ9JOQT_skkOsE3sT4RB0PSnOMQ=w293-h220)
Top got the requisite epoxy primer and then the urethane high build:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iljK5fyUd0A6_eLNe6-lEU4-_-lBybuiD_dS_Yu229xIxDFA3NJTGLYfNVptCE3klChcXm2CjLmC64_F5A=w293-h220)
Lots and lots of sanding to get it smoothed out. I had 2 small dents, and 1 large dent in the hood. This is the last body panel with the exception of the tailgate to be fixed. I am finally getting the hang of how to hide the dents. Shame it took me this long......the hood is the part most people will never see. Oh well, if anyone wants to criticize my body and painting skills they are more than welcome to pay a professional to fix my cruddy work.
Unlike many of the other pictures of the body/paint on this build there is no trick photography, or critical angles here. That hood really does gloss like the picture shows...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M7Z2Sdz5KxL5VIyAT_WphxLyBekeKm5mdWq7a1HdiiGk2Hu1jRvZyy_CTM7qqm33_Rt9gALvBOd3HDUqcw=w293-h220)
The next sub-project is where I went bubba. Despite that fact I think it turned out rather well.
Before I start beating up on myself observe that deep gloss in the fuel cap door. Pretty good, eh? I only recently did the gas cap door in conjunction with the hood project. I didn't include it with the bed when it was painted.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PVIufSv_li7s1uI_byspKsNeQuuUEKCipoAzUa83fAx5daWb8FMsATcS9Kx4iYACDbmge2HSoTjxr-YPQw=w293-h220)
Now here is where I went outside the box. As you can see the '88~'00 body side molding isn't in the appropriate place for our beloved square bodys. What I did on my build was to place the 88+ body side molding on my pick-up truck in the position it is in on the 1989~1991 Blazers and Suburbans. on these models it resides lower than did the silver trim that was standard on the 1981~1987(88) models. The 1989~1991 R/V series pick-ups never had this trim. Many 1989~ 1991 pick-up trucks had the V22 grille (4 headlight), but they were sans body side molding. They also never were optioned with two tone paint like the Blazers and Suburbans of 1989~1991. I wanted the body side molding on mine in the proper location that was consistent with the available models in this model platform.
So, as can be observed, this led me to a situation. Do I smooth over the gas cap door in the same manner as the right hand side? Or, do I keep the door and look at a different option. Considering if I were to smooth the gas cap door the bed would essentially be ruined for any future street truck. This, then, led me to explore option 2. Carving the body side molding in a manner that would allow the gas cap door to function, and retain the proper placement of the 1989~1991 body side molding. This is a compromise, but I am satisfied with it.
.........As a side note. Everything about the body on this truck remains "stock". Nothing has been modified so that anyone in future generations who would want to could move the body over onto a street, or original K series, frame could do so without any modifications.
And this is a pic of the finished product. I'm content with it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DBDeA_bfrv0Ne_sEbzk0Xs9jtDSrkCJ-FvaBBllbYHs3A458Z2NPBEVYqVjiR9iyC1-VyTK9d226kp94dg=w293-h220)
So here are a couple of photos of the hood after it was installed:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nKKX5C2JM9J99AlXsAOoWntv9jq7bB1VkfdIsI-ZFhBON2Nm1G2SWqtl4W9GtheyXvXSBLJsQ6_Y-J6FzA=w293-h220)
It was really quite funny taking the above photo. I had never cleaned this truck since painting the top of the cab. It literally had a 1/4" of dust on it. Now, remember I am no professional body man, I don't play one on TV, and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. So looking back at the very first panel that I painted, which was the top of the cab, you can see streaks of light/heavy/light/heavy metal flake. Haha. It looks like a blue and silver zebra. Well at least I figured out how to uniform the metal flake by the time I arrived at the visible parts. And any body shop instructor or experienced body man will try to discourage a metal flake paint color for your first paint job. Oh well, I did it myself and saved a ton of money. ;D .......again, we will default to the top of this post: "if anyone wants to criticize my body and painting skills they are more than welcome to pay a professional to fix my cruddy work." ;)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/07ARgZV61OmJ_XHcm4UxtM3nDOmeZ0mj-g3Uyscn-6jrX7YaV_7aaMiixJ_XKWaxxl_LVjpjmrW7EUK4Kw=w293-h220)
The tailgate is the only thing left to paint blue. Should get its new identity in the next week or so.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qW0lCae4smYTQbuzH-J4fB2QThJD8ks9dgXcHFVSRbNoQqqEi3n5vfrRQ2Nqp69j9uXCvT0LV_Enp4k6w=w293-h220)
This weekend's tasks should see the final round of sandblasting. I have my last 20 Kenworth lug studs in the rear hubs, the fuel tank mounts are done, and the rear bumper brackets are being prepped. These will get the epoxy, and black paint so these separate items can take their rightful place in the truck.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MluOaSwkhFMEM8Yr36Bw1qOKRjZNjhx0A4LJpdPx-HTqe1jDHIri9ZoXXjA0Amf6q1r0-Pop6Nxd8IgE0Q=w293-h220)
Oh golly. It's past my bedtime.
Til then,
Eng
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Monster Jam-racing mom shows girls they can do anything
http://www.foxnews.com/auto/2017/09/20/monster-jam-racing-mom-shows-girls-can-do-anything.html
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Cool 8)
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I didn’t look back... is that color period-correct? Either way, what is it? :D 8)
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Are you referencing the body color?
The body is "blue granite metallic". It is a GM color but wasn't available on the Silverado until 2008.
Some sources call it "stealth grey metallic". Either way the paint code is 928L.
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http://images.tcpglobal.com/chips/2008-Gm-pg04.jpg?_ga=2.187137384.1552707271.1507644065-1557103012.1507306402 (http://images.tcpglobal.com/chips/2008-Gm-pg04.jpg?_ga=2.187137384.1552707271.1507644065-1557103012.1507306402)
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I finally have time to pound out another update. Once again I have been pretty busy lately. I'll get the truck stuff out of the way in order of precidence.
First order of business is to report the finishing of the tailgate:
This is a picture of the tailgate with the primer on it before I put the color on. I added this view because it is the only picture I have of the tailgate band before I "fixed" it. More on that later.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WxxbXng-TB_KicAVFwXnenj-lXx0iDOCIkEd4lRd0bV_02ZfAjgWa5rsVoPH5ObJVB9_61Y2NRmSEsv8ZQ=w293-h220)
Tailgate after it was painted. Yes it is a GMC, and no, no one will ever know.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c0VvRWbEEtzOTK9h8iuYirqfa8mnBFlnpJFzQi3LdDiyIA-C8NJ5bXlOB8HI6maLpRT4yfrXCuhOfG2Sqw=w293-h220)
If you look back at the last picture you can see there are 4 dents. 3 that are minor, and one, this one, a biggie:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cAK0t_rF-sHyUfRdTd09uO_i97pbUiYDTHWMU-uNlYJTIzCP2hcqQJAfQyWIVwtDnddkd1-XCkmBSBW1Wg=w293-h220)
2 of the dents were an easy fix because I could get to them. This one however, was in a spot that required the disassembly of the tailgate band.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RBhCekZy8xTEJz97Tvbk_WfstgdTJ2e4o1ye0Q0qmTC6TowNhIp_IY9stnx5kNI1vIZ2e6E726mQvo7Lqg=w293-h220)
After a lot a patience, and a little work I was able to smooth out the dent, even from the rolled lines.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/47NBAACOKWrZmVwTV8ICOBKoMb4J0tJf6qedoEx5gU8wAZpKXH7PeWV7kcwSDr1i6_pm3iTwlSk2m5mzNw=w293-h220)
How about that? And yes it is the same piece.
Some more views:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TyH4DSgp18kFfu26nHUpjbRwwTParls3jM4-ola95F8qf9maeMQoi-UOwrfOjn5it_g_cUiqRhUpaqTWOA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FDGS7V9NeJokhD1aXs4ZNIBVvu0L-mlS24N2kw399AyxXx9JDlMyo5kfdsUUEgmfZ8yF7qN_w5pBhRg9EA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZxX2Dy5x0IGwvCRXthoIMLAEIy61mqYdf5UtvyJv37li-0bt1lE3NN4tmHMGmXSX9cYfT8kwT1lBUZfkxg=w293-h220)
I received into inventory these fancy parts the other day:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mfnVmT6AsFfWdVfpio4vAp2msw-6IK3wOlqoU5iTAgwrjE9TQf95EFysVP_r4v92g4c7j9ewhI27UVkfVQ=w293-h220)
Set the ol' blower on top:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NMZwmOYeh9fYNmxUetKgDMil6eDEWEX_BGJal6P1DYURZWI-7--8Sqr3rUmTjmS2sKmtusBWehtH5WR1iw=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dT4QH6R1gwrqHFI29FqB7irdIHwe9Xj-TSJIWdsGlTsqJ6LYNpbffV3k40G9wgXXzMYvqXjmrTSVpuTTWw=w293-h220)
Bought some clevises for the M-39 lifting lugs:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cgxTZBCxpy61ur-w-u2gZlfPZ5K0AY8bx3phCfV2d7nac8r0D--OO5xIgKoklreRxoVjelkvReRyBbbC8w=w293-h220)
Started the fuel tank install:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nTvwHIxUbcASwZ5nznwJW8CjQDyoSeSiFYOELd8cmj3TwTfg7D6JcdY9JqLXVXFok0Z9CXZ_Z-WqdkBtVA=w293-h220)
And I put the side windows back in during this time:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qXtb5JSPW2zKR8tmxXEzJ1dSFkBewANJFvW6eVMbJIQbDI44In0xIqHh2Zq9VHS43ZgJFjF-VihVjLFS2A=w293-h220)
And now for the bonus:
About a month ago we went to the NHRA in StLouis for the first time ever. I have tried to go many times before but something always got in the way. We went on Friday night. This is the best time for the"experience". The crowd is smaller, all of the cars are still running because the elimination rounds haven't started purging the field, and the last round of qualifiying is after the sun goes down.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GO7gsKyOy-cvlFuY1-1unHw9PGVzhBaqGFsNjGd9ha1rvS1Jki1jt_jCi0R_1g8pjTUPlFNezPMJkhq1Kw=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sUUDhWLhAm6lOFBnA9CAyG0ilHw9SfgJyf4f1eLGCJPtq7flK9k0dEn1tOQmx7vx55teT0FGYQlMLA9D8Q=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NKDy20BPru0Tvn9xx-ALbeM8T1xNE7uvthGfQVK9Qv-mES0cQacrp5NX5THG_brMVlTWfkD6s0QQ318SJA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xekqv3FuNXwYCDF0RVNjqNiDuFhCaXlVIMqlRzFC7ccxwvQFfmN6Uk0UseoHrXDafYUUx2u-VACjZo2lew=w293-h220)
Heck yeah Chevy!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jlc4dOZvYNzxdtFb-m4IWJ7EQOZyNoHV1CgB-ID8bkuVWZ09pwsPoVOrbY0zqTrw-Dw7pNi4OofJXhNjKA=w293-h220)
The scary moment came when Cruz Pedregon's chutes failed to deploy and he went into the pea gravel trap at the end of the track:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yPs9QFvLEoNBtimgHoFAT-Cc_csmy1hQGiAc4joML3zI1b6WWqusktV_e5ojeUVOCnGDNTOWyujC9Yu3HQ=w293-h220)
Then the thrash was on to build a new car:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_9zBzR5d7KFjC_Ugznac_MXtyjULUta2M62WZ393tBODhTGZtsw2-QGnFVJgWrAkYaCqfkSGCZ5sq5ppzw=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7hq3CAsN0n59yMWd9LL7vY_Zg9EVu3-cbR5QgGphF17-nm7NXcx7LBNl1gKrR7rNYV6Jyqa73ZA3eCuWAg=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1bDCCoK58sbXGVNwJEj-6H30aytpIcdiil54kw4eEq0GMhEFciAarGVkiNUmB0LSBO25T-JZ9xl6KZ75Rg=w293-h220)
Was able to choke on some nitro fumes after they put the new car together and fire it up. You talk about an effective nasal decongestant.......whew.
The highlight of the Friday night in StLouis was watching Clay Millican set a new world e.t. record. This next photo was taken of his car 10 minutes after that record setting run, in the pits, during tech inspection:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L7fjr8ZwLNh1lRkpEJk8sc1-DngTTC9V8RJt7oJAjA7bubYMUUVz2kNf2_1LRvuUokXSd1S5kL7ycBKHKg=w293-h220)
A view from the stands earlier in the day:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dn1kCIyo87ws-lef8z_jXqG13e-Em2se_mk6D9jj0AzwDgFU_2LKSCnMl5LiOLpMxHDJGdDueysiZuO3Zw=w293-h220)
This next picture is not trick photography but instead it is a pretty fair likeness of reality. Those nitro fuel engines are so loud and the exhaust pulse makes so much pressure that your vision blurs as they pass by. It has the same effect on the camera.
In other words, this is what you actually see as the cars pass by:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g4X9_ZluQk6e97JaSk-Wmi2ffkHE9YDVN3J93VqLXO4ExA_XrA-x_LlPtrEHEhnwVF_qzsxvD53EYeg8-g=w391-h220)
And then two weeks after StLouis I caught these trucks on I-57 headed down to Texas:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hcSivJZArjMa3zZ0VS0bDkxVlylGf4EPqhz4C7muvQhVsR-OXsG44H44ZoLjmUlOciRcjLW_Ie_mvlh_fw=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xXhK7HjAXmp7qWCs3rV3X1zTqJQTd3U8LTLBsE1DaobqjIgI13d-bDwcxk624s3zlosBhYSUN9wwnPjupA=w293-h220)
That was a month ago. 2 weeks ago we took a trip out to the wife's sister's house.
Stopped by the new Bigfoot shops in Pacific, MO.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2QiCJakZyyVDukzTxrvtcaxPNO1tGq41dbUP0ry8yvX_vhiFRc-Z8KaFZeZM_kGtBjj5ZGrecnOFlUO_MQ=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vt-rGmjHhcXOXJOC1xrDb7z2T8B6mkL6Rgerr8aCgXxdFiA4fHs5SisAUA2U1GZzuATY24Cla7jjM-CL0A=w293-h220)
Concussion Motorsport's truck was sitting in the shop getting some new graphics:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ysy2-KE7_FaAA-4JVWJCO12Vib5cZIXkt5PxxpLVl5js_yl6gAl05eKUL2BjXj2BLXg_GlY-JCnx-yrcdw=w293-h220)
Was able to say hi to Dan Runte. Probably the #3 guy in Bigfoot behind Bob Chandler and Jim Kramer.
Stopped at 4 State trucks. These are the guys that did the TV show "Trick My Truck" on CMT. Was able to say hi to Bryan "The Bossman" Martin.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TNAinark6l-tEBlXvtQI2Plr1TxjFMu7pibbDhxLE5EPYt3vBQV1cMSW7AW2PZM1dLg6c-4f4YDE4SATRw=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZADDYXu2u0KSR8LZ9CI3tam02v0QktEhtVl0lx27frDXL2zMYdyO8YNEUh1rOFRSy_QyMAF-pnph4gOikA=w293-h220)
Going to get a set of these eventually:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8i11ddpZc4baadiw_lrbPSPOjNio_3z4piPC19JodQ12X0Re-04dtBobi4KA8ifwV5s2ZzFvJSC2JRZ4yw=w293-h220)
Wife's sister has some family that we dropped in on........For all the obvious reasons:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i31sZDrRjYLdryfowb85khUjZH0iV0YKKmDyyG1LDpYtKELBCkpb3jTwMoRuENXprCRzcB55fiGlVzPepA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gtHIWkkGXfga-dI-35vUOqN3h-R5CAYe4mH9Tuxc1J03wyUMo_cXf1_ldw1mQwMJdhvX7fOlAyabol7nfQ=w293-h220)
And where would my post be if I didn't finish it out with a couple of square body monsters?
Bearfoot 4 with 74" Goodyears:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FtetyoFUKCxGawbnXXhk2yGZEV2-mfYpCKXf-I8O7mum0CXp8VL57rmISiW_bCA4MRwVHdoqRtnmS3pmfA=w307-h220)
And a tube frame racer, although I believe it is a steel bodied truck and not fiberglass:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zIjuajrf1MZrVLp6m3sHA7vxauOZsGzBEDFkA-zivRppD_aneiiGusPgtZ2uN7biDYqAQQXqz8wXDTwWOg=w343-h220)
So here is the deal. Now that I have my globetrotting, and galavanting behind me I'll have more time to finish my monster truck. I took time off over Thanksgiving so that should help.
I have resolved to finish this truck by the end of the year. The list is getting shorter of projects. The thing I have chosen to put off until last is the starting of the engine. I am getting real close to having all of my parts to install the 6-71. If that is the case I'll install it now rather than later.
This truck has its first obligation to apper at a show in early June 2018 so I only have 7 months to call it done. Wish me luck.
Oh, and tell me what you think of the tailgate band repair. Pretty proud of it myself.
Ta for now,
-Eng
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Awesome! Great pix, thanks for sharing. The tailgate band looks great, what technique did you use? The last one I repaired believe it or not was just working it with pressure and the heat gun. Came out pretty good but i didn't finish it and stuck it back upstairs for a rainy day. The body is looking might nice on this rig, it's nice to almost see the light at the end of the tunnel ...
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Vile I didn't use a heat gun but instead I used a combination of blunted metal and wood blocks and a small (think tack) hammer. The piece was worked on bath towels to give it a soft work surface. And then I applied the "less is more" technique. It's easier to tap a little at a time and observe the progress than it is to try to untap a lot. Hehe.
The only evidence of the damage is some slight burnishing of the brushed finish in the area of the damage. The burnishing is more likely a result of the original damage and not the repair. Just the same I can live with the outcome.
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Okay so not far off from what I did. I used a fender cover, 1x3, heat gun and a very small ball peen hammer to destress the metal. It came out good but the whole piece needs to be finished before I call it done. Not mint but huge improvement. I can't believe no one reproduces such a simple part.
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Yeah I don't know why there isn't a replacement.......considering the square body is so popular.
I don't have the knowledge to do it myself but I have seen guys who restore WWII airplanes make contoured parts similar to the tailgate band. I believe I have seen mahogany or similar hard wood that the metal parts are formed over.
A replacement tailgate band could be made without the emblem holes. Templates could be sent with the replacement part so you could drill for the Chevrolet emblem on the right hand side of the truck or the left hand for GMC.
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and no licensing required.... hmmm... lol
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I'm really surprised nobody makes a replacement tailgate band, especially a blank one for the licensing reasons like you said. A certain companies catalogue shows a blue C10 in it with a tailgate band that has no logo on it, yet they do not sell it.
I had to 'refinish' mine recently due to some deep scratches. I basically used coarse scotch brite 2" pads on my electric drill to grind out the scratches and then used 100 grit on my palm jitterbug sander to make a consistent finish. It actually turned out pretty decent (in my opinion). Doesn't have the stock 'sheen' to it but I could probably improve that with finer grits.
Excellent work on that band Engineer, as well as the rest of the truck!!
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Nice work !
I use to enjoy watching trick my truck
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https://youtu.be/cuahevVeSLE
https://youtu.be/lhFqwuA4uQY
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There was a replacement available for the tailgate bands, but it is now unavailable, based on my vendor it could be permanent.
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Here is the latest.
Installed the rear hubs with the longer Kenworth aluminum hub lug studs:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xua1gKGkDYSsfXw31Zc-rV3CITDhb1ymb4SuQLvGy5bHWyWKFJQp1vsh_jVOBU3MkF54-bUVptaXLWk3YA=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eXx2rFCxLsQMZE_N5WQzcDNVnYFxrCr7gNXgRHnVCmDpaMVjohlv4IvwmbBTZV4Sc5E-iJuS6E9GJO9r6Q=w293-h220)
A close up of the hub seals. I'm goin to try these in oil bath. It'll either work or it won't. Hopefully it will work. Don't see why not. Had to replace the wear ring on the right hand side because it was too rusty to hold a seal.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QcgKxbymUcnlTfh0ei8QQjVkSVQrwEqGJx-MgBVrtCqPuznYn58kh8LQyvlFK8LmtJ47b_8zcUkPi0wCzg=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mtR5wKhJwbLnkwSRYDI-E7sj02i-Ex_DHh4iM8FCqJB874ULq59W5w8ABOQhTw-XQWmeoxGxuBj8I9qbFQ=w293-h220)
Rebuilt the carburetor. I don't expect this to be on long. close to having all of the goods for the 6-71 blower install. :) I'm trying to get the truck running as soon as possible. I'm ready to see it on the tires. We are really close. Like 3~4 hours worth of work away. :) ........if I hold off on the blower install.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mxr9gwGS-GCV8pY1xYalK3HLlzuC8MRs83j6B53LWJqO9KrhbLUsPcMBQip3ZhmP4h4lWWe5HkkrBT9srw=w293-h220)
Look how clean it is. I used an internet/youtube trick. Pine-Sol cleaner. It worked, I guess.
The new electric fuel pump. I used hard lines on the pressure side only. No rubber. I almost lost my '77 about a month after I bought it because there was a in-line fuel filter spliced in the pressure side with rubber hose. The rubber hose got up against the alternator fan and rubbed a hole. Gas everywhere. I was really lucky as I was driving 60mph when I smelled the gas.
Fuel filters on the suction side and steel line on the pressure side for me from now on. Period. Can't fathom a fire.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jhysNjeinUDkdrx71jue5i7-tPgeWSGjeYiHQIl_uXJYVkzZl5ZfpBfIYv8jT7AZMZmOcbFusEqAFGuvXg=w293-h220)
The lines:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oJz-B6w4YHuUcCcoaKqVVO-ipWnDhUtirXavAnHcMEsmlFha0isqPMgKEpUQV9hH8lWM_oQ00nZJLel-A=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wRi9Vb_AdIvQjZRvqeorwUtwk3dqRot9dIiLY7gr4WFfpdQmp-DAKFWtRbuiSjLg8eYEPd1t4kDiGiXbWg=w293-h220)
Added the final coats of bed liner so that we can officially call the bed finished:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rdlT4Yzhtx1hM386TFDKO4U3k6LgNy--DqrRwXylSQ47hVck81OjhVkQgoEPUCAv5sWBLu6_vC9XWRmtKg=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/egyFWOLggS8VVt8SzlYEL0g4mzw2R1GT-Q2X0sPHyaG2J74yMdp6jkSADuh3DCzVozc2dU-OhvQeL6scAQ=w293-h220)
And finally. Sandblasted and painted the back sides of the bumpers. Going to polish the front sides at some point. That is a minor project. Can be done after the truck is running.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LjMZsX8xhUjrsESqRecK-wjy7orsMmmWOrt08tgPcZZyd_LHyWydTizbdRZmVhPqE1CA8BBamUdsixdaBg=w293-h220)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4788o5TmGyWfTJySTfArwCJmYoBo6s6WFIe-YGbas1PEeLx91DVnSnivJkdQvJ12nsewsGXshhsROWfrHg=w293-h220)
And the totally completed rear looking towards the stern. Tailgate, stainless band, bumper, and all:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/anS9kREzdWEFKb5AFFPYsAU15YlM9okZZ91uqhIxFz8mZbIXOEtiIxJDStWrZWEG5kavXQ3Us64TsvFFOg=w293-h220)
And now for the bonus:
Had about 5 people text this picture to me. If you haven't seen this truck by now, well, anyway. If I was looking new, the only thing I would change would be to add Scottsdale badges instead of the CheyenneSuper to the front fenders:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rtBjPcngGYRPRJDNFRPGcBM2WO8AZ8NLaVOUOCdgyM4UIN8n74NPjZgQqNDNkmiumZwskSA2KRFyAIk1kg=w391-h220)
And lastly.
I have a HUGE affection for the violin. Or, as we call it around here, the "fiddle".
Since this is the Christmas season I want to share a couple videos with you. Some time ago I found this girl on youtube. Her name is Lindsey Stirling. She is awesome. Her most recent video has 6M views after only 3 days! I chose a couple of my favorite older selections from her to share with you guys.
Please, take a momemt to enjoy this most exquisite mastery. And may your Christmas be Merry!
https://youtu.be/ozVmO5LHJ2k
https://youtu.be/1A3i0GATnRI
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So I spent all this time and money building a monster truck when I could have just bought this:
https://youtu.be/Xu2Iv3tvzD8
(https://pics.hobbytown.com/images/large/mxs-/mxs-533601.jpg?width=950)
Or this:
https://youtu.be/pCSBQuX33vE
‘73 complete with “patina”.
https://youtu.be/Z14gSKBX04k
And oh yeah, started the engine on my 1:1 scale Clodbuster on Christmas Eve. After having set for 7+ years the old reliable 454 started without even a full circle of the crankshaft. Timing was only off by about 5°. All systems are “wet”. Brakes are bled. Steering is bled. Coolest part is that when you turn the steering wheel to the right the axle steers towards the right. (hahaha). Cooling system is full.........and it’s probably all a waste since I am going to order the rest of the parts for the 6-71 blower install. Oh well, this way I can “debug” everything before I tackle tuning the AFBs on top of the blower.
Was going to put the 66s on it this AM and take it for a drive but it’s 4°F here so I’ll wait until next weekend. It’s supposed to touch 40° next weekend so we’ll see.
It’s just too cold here. We heat our house with wood and my cold natured wife is burning the stuff like it grows on trees. It’s so cold our local politicians have their hands in their own pockets. One nice thing my brass monkeys are sure appreciative of the new coveralls Santa brought them for Christmas.
Stay tuned. My next post will probably be very picture heavy.
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Can't wait to see em. On the plus side the brown recluse spiders shouldn't be moving around
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Engineer, can you make your pics bigger? Your build is awesome, just hard to see.
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Can't wait to see em. On the plus side the brown recluse spiders shouldn't be moving around
Haha! Funny you should mention that. The guy is coming tomorrow to spray. I told the wife over breakfast this morning that it seems like a waste of money. Die kleine braun teufel und schweinehunden should be deep under ground at this point.
Engineer, can you make your pics bigger? Your build is awesome, just hard to see.
Vile, I will try to work on that. Google gave me the shaft when they discontinued Picasa. Since they did that all of my pics in this thread have been thumbnails. When I try to use the full size picture on this forum it makes the images massive. Other forums I have posted to in the past have had a mechanism by which you could resize the larger images. I am not sure if this forum has that feature or not. I will check into it.
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Epic huge post coming tomorrow or the next day or sometime. Sooner or later. Maybe. If I get time........
Until then, a teaser:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jOrG_h90L6D5ghCgF8L0C0zuKz5BiCQRrtXRWBCGVKUBvmRk9ZlInmmoG3K467IAqauRBK8d6zXsAEW18nY-j4xn6bun7ATPSx6nDIsYnzWFrXzS_KuCLaQqxQVwQ8GGjUgVrCQXmoCHsA_8sxLRy92XnOsjWx_Z7RsAN6Ezvqqtjbq-G22yc5aaf9VYczQBf9M55kxu0hOVa94P8qmw2nLXhyyxPA1xXVLULnF1lzfEKx9YzOw9ocaGweTS1X90CE2BBMQJa_u6MWL-nymiI6jVZpchUo6cl1VQSn1ZyQ7rHR4bX_jaF1OBbuZ20-barcp6_iV1nJIb7kULWPSG27ApcgMZrdd2hlisWAfNSsx7nm-87SDlU2vw12HqN4pFRyGphGgwQCeppmOfrHLZaiBk3t_OEr8sooX4qorsthFeM4BzJccldxrMrk_sLsUIz-QeaxAVS4m52pGr973-V4rxr4LFrtwd5H_5_uC9ukPQGs5J5Bcp3bPXpk9RlVjOB-sLPn8ikAL7bBieMPEZAS1J-0OylHx1be2DBT2rhfFQ6U9OVqreR2yfyFLiNfWmvN4mzeolu2nI4qSYUaL0b4ZrSRyt7TwuCv89hgA=w820-h615-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yD9J-6U6KOwBWymkAG72U9UPFVCeTlZnONQOg5Xs2ws9cGPBlyJeAH1XB0_7zw5V4WVN4WCt183Fn-rKbyB66IWxCBRJrGRhtAbRzL7kLu7v7XHtrMrJd8n1ARokAOxe6_3zSvjN0Gh08j-536cyHZ7RmHLgI_yuhsO7bb4_k8eKU8wemLymQQvnqY9JCw5kexWfzf52Rtp0TZq9mCrfURjseEiumbOA_imhPIwkR3GYrqYIuJyPNBo6N8nhQuM5M11CyAmKP6Luq4Xo-z2BkhamKwDsgvo7q9aEBi0F-JesMRVoqwa1kZlJFPPQScARx3m61_iTQI8RowFCCj-UwBYQERxyRUvpeUE0d1UDDsmK2zkn7qRWTXy8UEnN-mIiwu2sBXkyAZXsr81mvM4uC6OTIb9Z1xuPBkw56wxe-LMlh-NCjnfHSBK424lt0w6js0cGDFRzvUuGqkgAZbY1Xr3-BSGc8eHVBNcBTnOg3YzZa-J6J81MgZ854p_9EdQWU5Sn1wmvadedgW_l50BnAdoleGa6-VS18lYOh4jCJ0farJ29SGzsmG1TzqgGHjAe7pipFKl69veZa6UU9L5kk1UluDE7amjXNpDTFwU=w820-h615-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SqP9bn7rc9x2VCRX1Gg0ca5TvNKNs9u4mv5esWV7fx3D1e4-fsb_IlELJ5w8ZpI-TTLdRJKMvviXAX57m2vIzPkYQ8QRWHeVLbe_UNBUIgrKbqMfpHwoBsP670_kQw5EqANSh6jsBpgBOgULa-utvl-JH4d0YdZSGYjedjxROGhIxyr3sYkmKZLjm-yPG7n2XQRbkpA_9I8KR_d6eJTxWQ5RKaeMsDweRGb2G8mjpIRYKYNh05mvLEUQuNZ4-hrKR8ls0JZQ88oa5cbcok1qlg9VIMcj_mHjV0dcitIlrXMoR1KHxxK7KlbpBJUr9E51efSv2bcOd_O6L_46z7QcPajC1TtQ2D0OlKjQxq666gilx3qAzwH4TRPD8YRuYn_YFwIpyH6mukao89nk0M1F6htpjfFW8sIculZZX43BqzzQQvrgcbeNPtVdwbMjA7sVWCdnv6rf2vjaCx1h9XqMC3fxEOIT23D8VGNlP5aF5OTwMbcG9kismUXjd79eskOEuG6wTyW5pEtyAPFbVTf5j9YZX6m8FWD21BbZ7uT69nXWPLJO6xLEYq4EmWWda4b4pUDkjFYnZBkz3mQE1X3Frjfb1L6G0YfZybahqdI=w820-h615-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_kh9KzSmJT9KTNja4MneeJgUFtVv3HRdy87GTSFvzI_fAoKLA0PrtN85lEvjAguUYHnrrNHu3IpDOtAjVtWjogvF5fEzbx3H6D6jMIj39KQrPwvlYRSQ1V9Xnx6SU2L69CT9T5YlAOfV66ttPM_xfufojsvnquVNoGDZu1GC7nFOHlBrQd0CxzPaLr8MqqWx9kWdAIkgKh4Jeir-ILg6gzfeWkdEkEdyNEgBLPr5nLq-tQbqY37S9iFx7ZG68BAAU0tddNBYEJO0R6ws6tlLRRjzrNl5Fa8jpNOsZbUZT7av5Rgx9f0OSpfTqEk1oVflKOYy6njOWuyfrqr_DMlvrYKQuau0oIpTHzpIzc73lSqZLgTXtAaponqOTbSczdcULiNaPB3NS-b2AvF9oqAIFmD9lr0QUONKPrSUWXZVOCs2-c98Bb3UFOQlgyi-_KZx35BjTm4W41ot_T_FK7lXAZtS_NX-CbD8m-9bbnM1mcMZ3Gv9jsNkLw_MnO7uNdfaXa1CW6w3SCuomniWiHmKRnoWa3bZxc_6CXY2rNPTL9aCFGfpuwCp0WUcaI_WeBtlIGYxdHsWzc8pi_k0Mohsdt0YdPX-5-Bw2iRLBgU=w820-h615-no)
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Saw your son's post on FB and quickly turned here after I saw it. Nice!!!
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Engineer...I use Google Photos and have no trouble posting full size images! What I do is: open the full-size image...right-click on the image and select...Copy Image Address. Use that to paste in-between bulletin board image formatting.
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https://m.facebook.com/Maiden-America-Monster-Truck-387330345024341/
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I think I finally figured it out, You HAVE to be logged into Google Chrome.
I have been using Internet Explorer. Scheiße. All this time I assume that is the problem.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ypq321RqwCCqzBPYT3Jobibssuh0hpCy-aMXVlciY3Uq_V3FjQjcFkuM8KiSkNffmyDcfZlwmPoOSRNbeWE47PqLxuNe3bwSl78fVXd8LDD3wAKUsuuAdmu6yrxIIGaVt7h15BsRMtZ4KrXrqFAFFHT0V-qDCQUw5k-Y75Yx97-5lmAWneYr3nfh9wVajhAplgu-SYJTXL6kTe8lTSAjzKVP82xcj-RJYpEZDiyB-6pcjy0GAsACAVAWjdPQ0xijrq8COu2uSFW5ZZz-Mkd3JjVjgLL7oiKPyzpbG9pkiHZyKKqoetps6cy3y-6YihXBe5vxq1qpveL-9sWkQHr_b6gSBbb2fDwrofSNwGU1TyuHQieyJoaeuUlOjUkvqFEQeOqYWeSwUzME-Q46JZrRBjPoLefu-w9X6WI8ct-_ByAKvjRu0PJhwr3svGoKc3JRYb843LA2-UhRBVYzX1rmLonXmTHjmRL1O4Zg_vlGovgCHab8BSB0-M3FuqLuuo9Fx05I_IinvM8dmN1KX8UCfJ2TR83osLaLlH1_i-REp89IrLFwJGhZVdAGMpfUcDffDR-kWBoDMo163x72F-JRqaY8oQGQsfaHE11uERk=w1034-h582-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eT3R6X_NzxpixVUs3W1poeUVzUgX0Z1hqJ7OruKsG0u28_UwBoXODz-LqcGRX_Kk3DKAyGONJ49PKSyp9_1FuZeI2rAGu-Cv1xfY9mc0QhtVjjebTk3ruImB48Ozg3-0MfMp6xZhMOB8ZOLuezJiuZvmn9UOGCkp3QILQd4_HIWT5uMISn5GOQu8WJtpqR9s3xv_TXOU6uKTGWMnuYxD95EKNy15cJQegZ5bWcOcrePYcRQzygwmcUn2Qflqy9jdZNBc8GDk95ET4BqNpNabZ3LFrkKq7V92fBhTGhEZrCUVuNm1eQWxwW8JRS-CVZRUnbuworqurC6KRhXaqeGaIHcmjxy9Kwb4wsEKIF5z2Z2pZI0KVV6D7jLMXd6ymfZUlK05mF0AuihKEoL9vkffgZkAFFZoL6X2_5rlCMOggq5l59sAuNkFN91De-vqceDmscLy1R5nztN_mMWMjjSRl7lpy7TzS7FJMbOrOMvjm0LFbbxyewgSGfmRKwPwV3VLAUBBBV9alQ-aEoxIMY_TB3Qydy3Y5cNIbA9J8cTsRS8nokzuQsB9WFSwLW0GsaKKopKfkIgLQL3v5kxc-UBUnahjGJXTyRyLlr_e8lU=w1034-h582-no)
How does this look? I have wasted too much time tonight so the promised update will have to wait for another night. Sorry guys.
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Now THAT'S a truck!
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Throw back Thursday:
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=388819724875403&id=387330345024341
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I was going to update this thread earlier but chose to hold off until today. There is a reason for this. Today marks the 30th anniversary of my buying my '77 K-10, er , um, my 1991 V3500, er, um, monster truck.
Yup, the truck that started this thread, and this sickness, was bought by me 30 years ago this very day. January 16, 1988. So you can see the significance, and why I decided to wait out for this day for the latest update. Originally I intended on holding off for this day for the monster truck reveal but I was too anxious to share the build. ;)
One thing I might add before continuing is to ask if everyone is aware of the Maiden America Monster Truck facebook page? There will be some content on the facebook page that doesn't make into this forum, and there will be the usual content in this thread that may not make it to the facebook page so continue to follow both for the full story. :)
So here is the latest on the build.
Here are a few more pictures from the tires day:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VJQq4HAs8wnxehy8QcD-ckY0HjEsMx3xUBs7937T2syOFoUk1WHHUcNUxoUws6GhQBtUG5UMAqHtspWw2q6j9KrJlbtosrj5Oydeq35M9_uwkFG-dCmqWQvgIwZxkeO5v3XqpJOYB9a445-yZ2aKYgjUYqICz31awPUMojO5hGUEzuzsBZLFSDBQZwHlNcxkJ20MUjxbcl6Eb84meWw4-ntDv2TJKrAdFyLz0a8iNS4-9YccDbl0-NsH2tauOaMfLWNsKdiz2nw4Jk90SsFDKTX3pqWMAnQAvesr2wVcGba39nhIJXvMijwdtzr_Qukl-GJKIE6ydSEkpqUkfm9C5azMVSfxXCqK68czCBnv9uj8A-O0YJSgCjVLYftgWw_7RP6R1Z6YFZjCGztZ5D8XZx1l0NnyPjzNGTtJqG6u_ogUD8W0gOJntBh3g_CXixzTD-yJ-8u1fXi5fNfaCMcx0k3n08vHN6qTQNBm5RQIrPpnDX9lijiAdKG7iHxOUEr2byS4wdoGvuoejMh9VWEXcrZBrAPhGzS0H2XBtM6E97audzE3-YxwI4fV1TRGLBf7pa_MZXUCeLeAZovBtNx-w7vHFj9jLbQwDLhF8OE=w1177-h662-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W8ZCd59yi13YVlQum_5fSDy8oPe0ZZSu_IKEhD4O4przt5b30lHaILBHTwG9nufI1BWtzjQ4OxkuGTOjZc4B9kaIFwlWBtj4zQdp0pAuJmdwxb6WRdxiIGtbiR23QgUk2ih9RKsUb19wsss4YIosG4zKCAd5_tMtVTksoMpuLKuuSiBjlulw9VaAiVrtBF3CEFitTdDf9p7V9vqkxQ6gjMHTDLRx9EWaR1sT85ZT3rmQM0nzzjJaEg-Sknbp8znTnxOjTBTLwWWDJ1mdwgPsI0TR6sP6fmxdSEGNEuYl4X4pcGLGyJaW8V2vu4LLOoRe2_Lx5g0yGhT51Nf_yG-nluSOPaHqCZ4tQh8xyv8QwxcC6zDVD0A7XU3cEMVPArf5NT-2nX40BozH-9q051qx0r-IF1V1jD2BQ5aUNvFiyLUzFOlDWIJwBsRbJUlEU4QS6ElmcUc3o7A62RPH1-MbIzHkNL4b7wKHkgyMf91Q1-kMWcTdv2LjwUjZ5t62WcNUpNIen_ixi7w8dROaqc5Hk8ZT2lKZ0iKWjA3sdlp5xyllYYTs3w4YvRU79LOMLh-bZZkP0DsZYrWCS8eVKbA5btTJZ1PGuC9QRY9Tdg=w1178-h662-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nnjrdhhyXCKt4A38bH2J5svsirOmx-MTAUD5UQUpqjB820r2CC4fZALBnr0fwvwhVY6arQ9gw2C2fV_SUUF21bY78jR5T-UiWWx7djzEGptukvQgKYHZ9DBBj9hNEDuSBQBESHNd1qLo_5ijYcC5I3X17wGx2kp2oOEvKm31thQ4RCT1WHL3CSLCnDFko9Wo4oB7TNT0Shw4_guMyRjFasid4QByMeVIulrQOzXLmoNguTYg8aUY0ZTl6X5J4Kb01VKUgmymCanLBQIpY4iBkU74bNbNjR4PYfjvZ6zaFAMPDULQIZKt3HcpkgZVL2b-RBg4-5Kiv_0XYcmQ8R0Irx3fLd8zpcCrADU6QH_1YOae6KPkbbK2u0uwfMYD_b8-EVZR2ieoPAm3zK6yeXngXMJyKKqG73dEGtmKsCvCfo3Gu02tV5MLhnJohqyPLb-wHsrTXCAsLan6LnEm96efNKkEtxDNPMDY5HDg1zmF-vo0RGJl9u7YFXYQbnEYV6hoTgh2fRHAtRhjiXNFn9XwPe-SS5MVZhHqDgYtyLHJBZMExBpllUm7_D9TTXRkF7eHqmyr_-v37WWCCCCTSnJPZLa9FK5D1dY7F0jqGc8=w1177-h662-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R1k6PG1DeCoUPK08hHfia1hHJTEVrHLJ-O1T6QTo-0Pc38IRO9-gpmBBejd-Vvyap5P3eqAw1M_GGZdyD-o7hbsO5aTluOO7PChdhQcQdXWEEVhDxx57G9f4A66wx0YWSBnvDU7g9Nh4gDOGKPL7Bk6_kE8R3XEFSx-xqsOWDKHGpw29yCeglViYCleO3FtFJh1uefK8RL_Rgr9fLAJfKuOrZGbcsDy63LLoT_OP3LK5xpVkkI2Ca3LX-5GIxxuU0PSe4LeucPTBZlMcCFyJIJyAmtYbRs4tJzooWmytBEV3_dRQLUqIHsqcMhPkuc5u8eOKXKnZQ5vjDQ9qVgZjFa9l4mvscjhnjUsePcNXBnyQzv7oxreFCbjcMNhOeGG-KT7Wbd_3RkHGRlsh-f1B8tmIM8DUlJzfWHiEqJpkHwwwtBGQ5YsSO1wpZ-JDE_0NeEyUS1PY-MnoOHtJFgyBK6u6LNbkCbqaqCNC9Fibqx5PFSFeBM2rlJK5MyG4ctbbK6C3O_sNGGW_2ogvoyrvi2PKo6pihhKcK_eJou_pDGT8gGz-4wVT5Xw_mnZux8Q5NhM0qXI7SCdZ0sTfFtlwMmmmZmG-jrr_t5v1MMs=w1178-h662-no)
Using parts of the old wheels I built some ramp stands that I can use with my trailer ramps to drive the truck up on. At this point I can then just use a bottle jack to lift the truck to change the tires.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ViLcpKzw9t0D21AJrg1Oyt-96UfPFlrgPPH0-fsKq88Gml7af_nILEp2xkjVKnYs1nHWoebaoByM0lg4CVFHfCKdYiFj_3gSXcqmRGsmhazYp2LAYkHwJAmbh6f_a2uw6GfalaJnHHyDYFTz8Xi1UtjsPwsxzfhWM59MLrcH7epdd5zxvXkMzM8oUg3xaW1K6XB7iJJ3zIwDLwiyTn7zGhZw-TvhfFhFu4EhxMqspS2tgjoqOG1I0u4utuXRRpcPFi8Ug8QWZAP6dhnQGrVIr760Qe-rcf2Yp3eoLB_MVU_JDrfHRa-_Xb0EmttUcDcl0WJVjHF1guU2STFZW22Ta0b0HR5ZLy7iXpaFfC5GV1G2L2EL-aYfDkJu6C2JYyPRHBh11DQJQSzL0OY60Eobvd8gThg_1TOh5fbJBbIBTKL-2NZg-fB4oqe9R2mjlnleJrr8DoTS_gqag7g9O9irdYPFpqAjaNeYl4EqUeJxgTkQWjLFGzCl2GT-5JrRGZTX08XBV2tTdSSgn1RT11fvrJrgBxo1rJZAu2b5R_W9w5GpcwsznQNeHZBdihQbkGIcaSoL94ha2ntu9EFUvkLBvo7Rs0qDg6d46fjLynk=w883-h662-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4T5brD5QzkHDh_56wgm6-w6cWBBlHsGnHtPJXdZ-em2ZMRA2aw1SWFhwGwOloYCFll5AeI-mV032gIiQjLgFAQ4Xz6UmTN0ZO7x60mi3nKF8foZBlH2ACmZ2w1GhC3oK-AYtNAYHCmDsCeJbQACSNLTmqD8gpi2WBVN5XIvYH7OfwgCQ3aWEpJWk0JsSbq7yJwBeUrapUsXXurBU3XdNHeGL-E2QKZnEJ-aAP_EqAzAK0j1zM47R2ew3K7_zgkbr59FvQEhHilYhw0Iubz-A7lTANJI7FRP-uHiazu2h2sIwCy6V6jeKxduvPHSBebDnGlnveWkb409xk6yBHRGToZaFQwkxgNGDBpYxj2llX2lRcWMkSDtIWxDDJN7gk8OA6Rmg9g39B46g2AfAF84N2ZnGPxwOjo0-uaY5W2fCo-JU1Lxx9rGdyRSoZWXh1G32W0rR-kJcm7KDzf88ReSK4KrChGAGwD-0RrAbMODv4hxOzG7Be0ANPtlwhnJ5PAxoDbkBmIeW55hj4yT06A46izFNWNFe2D-oCcrewMRBvUBwLkHkWkUdXW1QyMawxVB4PRM8IGNTqXOlWbffBt8DE-LVzbFahUFEKiA_WXw=w883-h662-no)
The next pictures I have to beg that you not judge my work. I only installed a temporary interior with a rudimentary dash and no trim. The reason I am sharing this part is because I wanted you guys to see how the seats turned out. These are from an S-10 Blazer. I think they are awesome. They fit me well, and the cool thing is they set on the fuel tank hump perfectly for height placement without any lift modifications. One other awesome result is that their seat backs aren't as thick as the typical square body bench seat. Even with the high back you can still recline the seat to be comfortable, AND you end up with as much, if not more leg room than my GMT-400 trucks or my GMT-800 trucks.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dhnilcGMzY_KD9jt9Bg6e83aBrakvjWmn5_q3DxIS6QWZW2dOpOkj-wxLqVaeLsozVZPTP2Z6cSNewk01PaJtm7aBMAVnvDmucXbn1kvzbaM7BVzobZhiGkLtFrI3K9As9VkwBapuyKB1vYYBRWAOup2oly3PwHGa8lfwY4y_PfuO8j46qVAjI9-nRI_Yncy8mdXryYzNViXCCeFz6XYG8aqInVzL_7ZAeR3IpXBV_EVIwsvKqOht68eqP0b4-eqJ5DICgZZ9j9OrCI2UF-ntGTXKMH0NHXrWBQwpMGopCH4kxTJJqpnH1QO3jTx5_y8ubWUTJBCGKyFEnMDIRXxVZRf-YUmCNU8QxR_UGInwy978cdo3q_1xLUSpWvj73h1VRViyvlIBotGkRv27Ag-PHxscAwv62eBPDYBEK7FZFMnV1a5pYju9sjc_E-dIiUrutuZVE-buDeP5XZtitRmJzwcVfl42GYeOG5ibGTzW58vZUCAsyzQj4LB-MteQhB9QPaA3DkDXqqzLfUx0wVdrR6CTTlNw08eqVcZ5B7-GjQblKI0xiwdFAiNW3H1-Dfq1sG7FkghmvISyekN_Y107iHkejHaNMKfEF8f0LA=w883-h662-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Bl5pKl_ey7pdcnJD40JY8e8YnNXS6ZPrhtAE7hTKMy6lq_sUByqEOs2ad2YhvC7U-p9NY3WmhjaE-kijfYWCx3wL-gC-zePCIcYOSRezya-3rpKCtp5OuqsBXfqPJsUwIyykGD6K2tXOLbfRAh2eN107pKrXi1tdA9TT9Hxy2IOk-QNKaeU9ndVeY3ldN7vAoy7UwseKOhaWR5I66z8F1iQ6v5evGaGF9ap7iRgslXvOC1hqBlVJRnlzt14VXpDwuhEmBRLG3unglQIeG7J43x5Pq3WoV9muk0INT0VUlig_bkUzGjdjstg3pnzqEycBV5fLNFSCqSH_q-qqp8L0upm0nnuF-btSJ7oGLhBeLByJeFcuH9e3N3fUbGMeUp0EVdn1spp1_wFemmtx912hvPVc6HuG-XbIIArdc-3jVAd2Innybq-4inmxBFI4zwLHXDvA3OwybFbrlvh7uOB6m_x6khirvc6Gdu-_8b0fmnPIQ0tMCUaUUv7yCt88AV7AuFYj8pjpGnKN2RYk6-0OQfTTwJuxC5BYx4fxr2LtcEjQlkSA5GzxF6febBtfDE_RzVxGyRR4HMPI8P6b0zl_CQZ5TBqydDfqIdo5F2E=w1013-h662-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V2988pY2MuykM8jF7KZWaGUflWRpjLbqqtetfANeVe3mVNiyCTdHGDZfHT-e77axA9GNDRstPGxwKC7C3eQF0v7ReGPOJwNcSPt6lSYUtsXSLnq1PKMXG9vR3VYWs7yHqPNKQyEldnQjJwmHaCWEbZAxV0PAzgb1B_DnkN626EDKU6Oe3uuqTkb3ZAoof7tr8TlqV7DQhcm137kipj81xkeH7Iye5jph_Y-8WM2lEpjS6ib7AJDp1Eenva7xFFXmAzKRB5PcnyivLor2wN0G0JXCHdD3JifY8bfK95QLfBpBrf48ooUgNmUTZvcrDMMRL9NHADeyuuIjfpcqpKX7jmBrZm40st2ATt-LoViSALauCxSsRODTqI_Q1a9A3XFIqqeBfX3wWz5_moK0uH8rc19JODADtRg4aHvONW7NF9ozVOYkVCR2ZH6NKUB64Ha6b7EH_Dw6ags2FZTUTyivIoXt5oo4wzU2G3iBak_ozWCMtccP6xR_ZLSvd_3x4i2PsD2uKTy4TcgfAwu6qX9KRLRP3QKhDQFWxHo0rK7XP0z7NIabWHFvO4Rxun0BMYcCDVfC1IL0uNO8WZc0z0Se7fD_XGStsE1DQoQSqTk=w883-h662-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d7-fziHInOXZZJlDCXfsgBml1os_Qg-Jx9I4UhyILbzDaPF-0sxPvgvV8O7tUBLYEFBM7FwIgYHzkH_y2FSTr0xQtHhLBVE3iZH1lkGnIlrPNWKPeDgDhMxyi_mWDWzEepG0sdshB06XstV5y9Qv3jY8R4qTvcvLnwkycpvTNSHXFoHd4zSp3a-2C9VDgO4hmbjoYyZB76yfrFNPHOkX299qQlkFiwJFt8SIDIeo5RbEAZfFWNe9l2dMDL3oWqCE54_l9QH7cu3CVxglWkppf7H13c2R3CiOlua01yImTHTf13EMQYdACMFcIO9OvsPJh_XrmTdQkzwFhdHQ_zyFiR3B-6uXweQ93QNXjmZeEMBFmtt6GE-_qn4Ynol1arN3c9mCQPYgQTrP9PXZHDuKDK5t2-RTAD7fetWnh7VbG7gdnGZx-cSBzIeXxp79xEZcYsp35rVogWEW8iURGLU3Gvqn02zaL3ToSMiZiLd7M-qdKdESAOg57n6GLezPlMWPL53AzNnJZsCLiFRC55hm7c-q4ggnSUrOQg7WtG5jvS1reazI1QvQk2p2CKYO4qE_ZuG1Cu92BdnAoSYPaXPL5LU83VrpAf3BFW3jmnY=w883-h662-no)
As I stated a couple of posts back I wanted to make my own custom idler bracket for the blower belt. I think the snout swing arm, and the blower mount bracket look hokey. The only one I really like are the water pump mount type. Ironically these don't allow you to use them with a water pump. So, using plans I drew up I had a local company laser out these brackets:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q7jrTWqFJEyU79EfzXKJPJkyQqd7_XU0fAhRkf5SJrMVbSguICoGWqk_IJzU1OObfTFYhxHeWFsQmb2Q_Tz1-UJUbqjj7OR1omh0dMNkA4LIr_rF3Fy0VwI3NF6bweumCdG2oHiXlb0dVfADN80J07fugebuI2CyzoOIyM63d81RXL3dGbAj6V15kJ4VbFOVpRpGv37hk3G2CA717QN7iGNEtkWp2MccaFj69RQKkOWrDKmbN1L7OGLU9liXb-zFbU7UfD7MGWcwzueAsapqJpKwWX4LkisxFnp1QradjROV1nsgnN0m4ao9q5_yvoPQS4eVUQbXZVtTYGZIfZf-NsSa89zdd-12t786A3ZiTcmKtvVibmD99MQqfpD2IjfLxaHyX4tJRU4FfX-ERDPaJtOlSkoGMq1it0H6Bcnf2LcTKABMjuggiSTT5lISm6xXq8ldk_4JowDaaWsb6GCsZqZfnASvAEZVh3yW5TeTNDVeHjnbfZpazuru1wFDTgwgW_dy1uQFDjU-DHid3j70TM_IJP9jUeOF8aM_Aav6v0ZGkjRINkJwdIqbtKQcEMOxlCk0oalTfCnXZmXDsDC_omB86Nw4x1oeZVN3m7w=w883-h662-no)
I still have some finish work to do but this should give a good indication of what we will have. As always I'll mock everything up as I am preparing it for the final install and I will share the process.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0VxIN4J2Vi0j-gk8QmzuCZBWzKqaEQ4JkDMBPqiYgvindKTkzRAAtjHfd_ThKQqHDs242wWu_LLde7ZGgvJd8_5kYhukIjwppC4csXnzaNqZfIM6fQYiD38VgYC0teOkFcg7T6d2dFeKNa3DM5sh7NlLUtfo0lYcCrBuPdR4dts2YDe8pB1-OrGkbyxee3qBZzBnTz-kcNomgMBWeFvWn1YM5NRoP72LyC3OZUjnxdAOqcHTSF0t3ZqKx2JfNI0zwihBmoDjfq6x7PmIU4GtyKWR3bxS1-4kxUJeOaIdWfl8F51qQroOJw0Em3nnVJpXKF40qN-2xZBDm4VzVwbgqTUgH0rh9Edyffrd81impz5IuQwQuYXrxGwzZVr8sSgCdzL3odBaDZrtqUuLY5qj_H3TytSVHKdcf4-2lOHaBk_AYs-0Xqk9EiPbCAzqCPYAThuU7lTv_dxgay6mHdTAiSNGKn0x-9OvhWm7PnZGK8FxubZDacvZ-7r3ii1zwHSTedCNfXbTurcNMP4PoI2CLn5NhxCfwwKTIymycTSLflQN9D2JBVvz97rDJhxni3X33qTboNALhIukDSCBPkj3dChoKiSVWnAmnrAM6vw=w883-h662-no)
So why the name Maiden America?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iYLp_Ttn7MARG-IOngNeYfre18ekOeXon_7yXvPcON3XhX86YfLdnPSC7jUsai_t9S0o-_nPyRg47xvFg782u0we3Hi44SB5v2BCqzV6rHXlCRT5SdSLhsNFluSeQxlgBJUeBseuPBBzABG1qSA7SMBxNfsoJi3gUiQY4lFc-LDartQ7m1fVxXSuNfDKDBYoMtcZCB8ysH-zNubESB2bZ8bC0JkjMkzp2IRZKxJOepkRsZ66YMRzGNlLEu7IdYM6nfUgT9u8DKPjOv2EpAKL7n-d-dOUeRChkTHtrmm10ETh9gDWQOxORGFEo4DXGp7NGfOADJYJnbyyTZf2aLxBbOdRdak_BDLMZabYATTWO9AX1nxAeVnjAsawmL4jo8Xxtnx4T88qyZ9mpJ8SE8mkpHfrUKTba7dRHHrcJ8fSrwsXoI1hfTSsKxgagZn1XeEW5Q0ZGXL7gBbwtdLoH_42YOU_-qXtFG142NLyqHJS47jWsfEkQUn8ezFQvGSnaXo9hd0p6HVdRKiCAMFwP4AOKaR9R7zSn7ZdKE_oVu0jqJhtmqdGqTdP_fU-xgfuRrmcTRVS3oAM7Ukr-kE9roaF-71q0-UqLGZG6f4r4Vs=w954-h662-no)
I came up with the name as a tribute, and it has multiple meanings.
First of all I love the Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress. There is no angle that you can photograph a B-17 that it doesn't look like an angel in flight. Graceful, beautiful, angelic. It would be hard to disagree.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CbFw5ZP-3Ar9GwP09lmzywjea5wkIHqGiV5CsavnCIMrYCDZy9jkVgneXAHPZI33xLVzBjTDw-6jnjpkqi5d65WHDyoqOZ1uPfnA8cm26wDhDEgSSC2Z2H7FVNmJ392pLd1CHVFjB-AKKVJiBkGsWun2JBKo9an7YNK2zxH5jiamy7x37Qvz0z40Nf72egAcmbJ8ZAhJX9cE-6C8hda46AgjNdjTnyylqKBb4PWPo2mbmL-ESH3-COVL6iPvoxaVGuBkbvjSv9lDtATZ5gvnMOOVlRZo4jtwjyBZRYyUIcWemFHQO-ffU8LUjz9L4G7-VTHYb8PWdAk89ZW3ap7Kt-3QNzIajjE4sx9kK9WUSlxllV7TkttgfwfyTggT4dqB4WEZDyBbL8cfDMdH9ABytyI8wFCQWhxnGIc645ZCUCYA1viGLbQSsTp_G36ylTJgaQlShu7UgoKA0Hv7SUx6CTVuBPCCH6sl0jGk0oR6nVnwHUXmGPbbNCIJ8KDnnAchsYz0hcVEJmadqHLlYsAqFWNm0TAUppciaZL9QBoVN2wj5xe7C7a-J_xCv9j8G5K21sdtsguSIClWqMvS_Wn3ES1Ff2CC3HV29xu9AoY=w640-h427-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7lSL48wI8mbthYVDvfW6DwMGRc8MflYsFwlGEjpZKEPeA-QY04Virh0KPZQuTp9d1l0u5gnLB9ZNLcIzZCzj_qBAu1z9T37AvoGVKCoyRIvOXQcxl7HEmX2X4KT4qhpjs7i8p8VgKgyrDca3wNQnvfHWwPxJGTs__89xZfz-Ct-cuPwzcAGBvSKwfvw19tpyrLhT9wACfrzl64vGlmSVCVFGwV4kfrQlUFXFqnDgWKkT43fLX7voBYxqaQ3OhDJeEzbh82ghu_l-OxqWv4v7Q2ItA8ttb-4ivBn2inC8aay30cdRhg9bdFM0YqVn9AEpB_BqILdeR_8Ns_ULqS1hLuyvxWbQhZzyp5-F-V4lvyQvUuRZ-KGvfZy23E5Z77cRwkjvMxJKSMvgbOPeVfyjHTv-_s6LmKBr3cybygIWLwrMKkgm0GWwBBSb2ADrN3I5p2j3TkLLoT0j7fhtuN049Z8j4pQWD1nFWePg4u6YP9xTCde7DFsQ51NW-QOYbrV8a_wZRM6T0INmHfia32CHvXhHTRDD6azTFTKM4U1VnM9QOHV5fU8qB1celnzvrqrJpOLO9VI3F9Yf-xXpcwE0FPTgk4f-cBf-4H2tTtM=w800-h619-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ioqfe343GnxLCIzPqGR7UOtgZ619wNjBQNRJOrPEIlscWzkPkgDp1NmroLMzOrUv-DMc7dAPHBSKRESbudSVF_8q-NRDv0t71RXmtreCGFU3iH-rMNmu6u3aBY4EL0-IKIpxWXtVdQ_0HF0Raz2fP92z3ZMherWR5CyyFt9qdXtiLyEd9CYMs_Nn2y5olNsuxVFupuclfyEofyEEluepvGa3o7_TAKkKH4ioyFZJ9XWJck0f4gSIVbOMyKPnyxEZau_jtDqneUu59yczpmevI3RC8iCqJEqZ9TntoMZmL-HLbQATtfaeg9f3Of6uyXrIQGL_hsTOhHHOBkGoE2Zi1-dNUiLmcmFUuUoXuBzM7nspszKQO4EMvEcukZOfKFN9jY7917Raa959SRXUBMip7jI4_h6aNsv6UPSxxf2NTWkSSlZAMcx6Ls7aXcFQAKhn1clOUZlgIMi6Jjzw8QWPmALxG-_wjY1N5Mu006kMP6WTvYgId6k6zNk7-2Gwmv_M78LDYAPgJqBNabtcmeDX1BH4Mk3xDyxjVX5aCuib8yvp3gHkd7rCTq5fK5BdwQIHBhdOqH3e6tWVU6KdIerg4Xu49imW9IoCZg4jjuU=w851-h640-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KhFmmWrEzUNL7NVwPQXDXqjsDALUm63rEBTpdmIRV-hqJpZlLFec7Uotx-jmIOKxs1qettJCtJ7OhrKCBIlk_7oDvDRFjVAGH0DHNMx7foyUgRVBV5BtY03K_saLcRwEobyC5RYPsqdPiXRyl4D3Dyr3t-kuqo5n7Rk2Q8-idRhA6vNQWX4832cU9ugGx46hDpbjZe9VcbfxQ4Aai3l0X58LaX-UsjJACG_ms6Nyp2u7_AZmxQtkrxzvNh23xrgmqnakz7SS4QJLA8kf-jnkN7457ch06MbeQIa85Zhn09gbtDR-wCRm4_jSxcGgMw7kYjKUZ8fHZaxFwbktQh52iBYARp_yJv78JWqaNdQM0HM6wfm0PDbLZ_VP0bAjG6W_e4GV4wn83maXKpDWURcZGeuJa3tMuutLQUpk2wFMcTTBYlSUPtpAgYO9LeYN7jUu8v0eawh4U97jbBVXafLJJs0Qc74OukfS7_wd1WPoeMAB0mDIM5YpFm6ohO9FF0CLe185PhW9IdQBWR6X6q_L08OFPAIfNhTf7xH7S_WcQo_gAgDKHGdo7F4xnjEKomUA3NhjSTFslKkl6rLIDXb9fadLyCfGCUW_hJ42knM=w1136-h640-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3YDwqbSiwyNAE4ypFOjKKGtFqGKNkvjlGrwBNyVEslV6W2ppXSuSb-YMo_1inz_unjOjWDy9MDYQjhESKVjHLy3aFV-oCxOIJG2AbZIQfAu1Gd2a66CI4xYfCsMpA2ypKFopAjvmMuyY2z37vGSlQVnJasARxyBB3gJiIX0ohcee55DwWgtECi_bUBuXz6qiXYN3wi9ZocAh9GXFzd69G0OpNc5xo1hdPpGWerOY3jr7oPgtwSPh5YGPkw6BFfZUSVdxChsnc3nJzwQ8uqvFokVWRj9pDkzILLXW20kuTFCWaCDfJrvE651IGOETK-wOyFKcnxH1NewDrDGcjgAryY4BH6ZzY8nF3rt3frHc95H2eM7lb4R-XmL70-Va8krgGJxMNchFD2C-sQWO6weleXr5oyzXhj9LaLtS06QUD29gESDSYnpIVg0KDPnpl0rQBuIMLUFsvqae3IU9qfgXaQ6KNkiF_5aC0heBKyVOwuSUpDvWF2iAa84jBrZYRurOgRqlGjpFP0Ir9LUgyzmHFqwjRQt8RvS6cYhSMtMdm1enCC3PeMdm4LDp2PyUICQ2QS9s_7UG20ytPN42mqjsGqNiymOC5j943pZUF7Q=w800-h535-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g6R1huovGzzFVFfpTv6tYAlSyqSxCBW9rLyvwNPsKMamWeMqCF6FS36rBFQux_zeo5CogyAlL_HlmxJSHRXoXAS3fnt3Qgg8fMk5RkBR1IcAoJ5BeQ_w_IFqC133AA9V_HAvfqYZUhS1gcCiRqedRPS2Jmawk9ykCR662Uu4UC0fGCpOpnzRixxaJmrqmYShQajo5vqFP9OwaTOW3gqNKopKCOciKLgH7cakVf2ito-9WurH7HGVllKIHIdVPl56J2jgJD4cXK-7RCBu2zhPbjkGFwR_I0enTDXs38eF8jg3fIxFGP1SrwHCrYaEzfMQH8Ir3IAZxzN0uTLdiFgChMIuM6Tx4IIdlZQpvBIMXfJyjTu2V9GOC1DSl7rspDWam5UnnSUE-VOZMyhmUQ79pBUG2WUc9wjKYTdMWR_xixzfOTRdZVeS3Sn1F7ig_z-o-xhwvv83ORJSCkI-rUlehYgrwhT5Kwc-uzBii0LUsFkOcZubG_8vSKSHf3K7tlr71ASqr_udsYlG-lLznukYEPvj18sVDg1OrOg2Ixz0K-bvpB4p2Pc_1m7MnC50uadG4X54dpx2nv_ecm915fxd_pNCruY7nYLYedhfQTc=w833-h639-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UaXWVmwGgB9qnQ8Zl8peUZZUfexEu5IujqKCrcSfzNdfzfzJaUQW6_iAzI7MKWW0AjkhTRLVUaeLf06HEGzjeRLCKiFpATTkxXYU2y1KLM7R4twxrMdrusbSWDxqUOqOYPkZMSu_Qu6iB37KeMg8Vi-BYybhF8Dl8KDL6fidWI8VdB1YYY9G71ja6Y4MzsozY62SnaPdpb_Pe5liABWWoDln56cLIG4cLB-sG7oVL19FDSicd1qNnqcKv6VwPN-sHCqcQ2g99ALQr1YrjqUPZrP1pxyZV3ib0AcqD4jkIKdtrftKKdTD6Tp2QaR76Qpm7maCiRdQopOd98B_IT0IjnLlBN_P2qD08QTsukpmZ-0VWINU4E-MNV-exmCeJFrg0micAEWtFfR_d6quVFJJ3X3Vy3YQKepm8QMpOd6X3VX00vn1dcqzwyhubgz66etk98kwDETroNOT6rc1yv1m-p2A9_D8405Yvfa6zPsFYVIScSp1g2CcpDxIgJ5IMXXGjrSLVd8Qq0YSciqCbEm_qekcbBe7bKl3ueKC5CHrF8rGRTPAaZcM3ezSqZdr2tghYERnLMQPgJMDUiiNONTjF8-XOdPDmdVPWYvmk0w=w1109-h640-no)
So I chose the name "Maiden America" because it is a play on the words "Made in America". I am proud to report, and can verify that my truck only has a handful of parts not made in the U.S. of A.
The nose art portrayed on the Maiden America B-17 was also chosen because it represents the most common type of WWII aircraft nose art, the female form. It was also chosen as such because the female form was in good taste and "family friendly". Otherwise there is no particular connection between the Maiden America B-17 and the Maiden America monster truck. However in spite of the fact that there is no particular connection, the Maiden America B-17 is a respect worthy example. But don't be confused, this is not to state that there were any B-17s not deserving the respect of an adoring nation and her people.
A little more info on the Maiden America B-17:
Model 299-O, B-17G-95-BO. Army Air Force s/n: 43-38736
Built by Boeing Aircraft Company, Seattle Washington, USA.
Assigned to 548th Bomb Squadron, 385th Bombardment Group (square G), 934th Combat Bomb Wing, 3rd Air Division, 8th Air Force. Aircraft letter GX-P
History:
Delivered: 12th Heavy Bombardment Processing Headquarters. Lincoln AAF Lincoln, Neb. 14-9-1944.
Transferred: North Atlantic Division, Air Transport Command (ATC) Grenier AAF Manchester, NH 27-9-1944.
Assigned: 385BG Great Ashfield, Suffolk, England. 1-10-1945.
Returned Zone of the Interior: Bradley Field, Windsor Locks, Conn 24-6-1945.
Transferred: Base Unit, South Plains Tex. 26-6-1945.
Sold for Disposal: RFC, Kingman, Ariz. 28-11-1945.
The Maiden America monster truck isn't so much a tribute to any one particular B-17 but a tribute to all 12,731 of the B-17s that were built by Boeing, Douglas and Lockheed/Vega to safeguard a nation and its people. It is also a tribute to all of the people and airmen who designed, built, flew, maintained, and filled support roles relating to the strategic bombing campaign.
Thousands of B-17s were lost in the campaign, and tens of thousands of aircrew were lost.
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Well, that narrative ushered a reticent upwelling. One of my favorite uncles, RHS, was a B-17 bombardier over Europe. Another flew B-24s out of North Africa and survived to serve as a test pilot of early jet fighters. A third perished on the beach during the D-Day invasion of Normandy. Recently, I've been reading about the Marines in the Pacific theatre - Guadalcanal, Tarawa, Guam, Tinian, Peleliu, Iwo Jima. It was a terrible business for everyone....
I agree the Flying Fortress was/is magnificent. So was the Consolidated B-24 Liberator, in its own right. So were the North American P-51 Mustang, Lockheed P-38 Lightning, Northrup P-61 Black Widow, Vought F4U Corsair, Grumman F6F Hellcat, Grumman F8F Bearcat, and Hawker Sea Fury. Very little raises your pulse more than the sound of a piston driven warbird... save for maybe an SR-71. Oh well, I digress too far.
Maiden America is a great name for your Monster Truck!
Thanks for the memories.
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Thanks, bd. 8)
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i tell you i really wish i lived closer. my son and daughter along with me would really love to see this beast.
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I plan on having it on display. Right now I have 4 dates in 2018 for sure if I can make it.
One will be in Zieg’s backyard. (hint Carl)
The lady with Family Events that is in charge of The Street Machine Nationals and 4 Wheel Jamboree Nationals has invited me to her events. If I can swing buying the 18 wheeler I’ll probably head east (Indy, OH, PA) and south east. The setup I currently have for moving the truck around will be adequate for short hauls but not for overnighters.
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I plan on having it on display. Right now I have 4 dates in 2018 for sure if I can make it.
One will be in Zieg’s backyard. (hint Carl)
Planning on it, just gotta know when and where. Maybe I'll drive my extended cab there. Really be cool to get a picture of both side by side for kicks...
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https://youtu.be/R_Af4HVl1WI
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That thing is a beast! The body looks pin straight too! Awesome build
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WOW!, WOW! that is SWEET!
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Looks awesome! Great build, thanks for sharing.
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Thanks guys!
Check out the fb page for TbT content:
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=394089831015059&id=387330345024341
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Hey gang!
Finally have time to drop in for a little update.
Are you guys checking out the Maiden America Monster Truck Facebook page? The throw-back-Thursday post this week was really popular with the old school monster truck crowd. Just a reminder that some things on the Facebook page wont be posted here and the technical side of this build will seldom make it from here onto the Facebook page.
Here is the latest.
Picked up 2 more Firestones lately. I now have 3. These aren't suitable for an ag application but would be perfect for an old school '82~'93 Chevy S10.......
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/27n3sWL0HhpnrrCthVezpbSbmxEyX1JgTwP997H47jToqm6N1-sRNSIGzmfbXnlN3yIdDXnyWmbyFau0S7tmca-vnJbY7USMS2J6X6W5XlkhihuZ4xFzR7fSQpFGeCPaEPhRLUiEib3Ybf2IK8LheKjskKfr__yxd-QPegcziaPgzCVVHtYXkO0q3ozZ6Ad2crtCQb9FAF0VC8KiilzvfFlyfD5xb7GxvqT3brB6G1RpDSYVm4jNYQHGGvxGVWaKhBAxmhbEewvIGSfE4vm-j8ov3a22AIblTvViqqaOUVNI89SHM8aPjIaDiDMY9KWRskudzgkvebSn3on_3WGNDgCcpuPdU2zOmoAtv4yDcELEvmyODk9T8rSOd9BcpwWAe3NRr6QBq2JNEakTt0vGGjvyFvMNTpfIySVvK2dq3TMMBw-2rzLAbh1QZuqigkNytK7u-0qFANAvYx9Vpxob6JMeWXHNjYm9w9DCFNbYmQahHX9mm-aZu64LXtPSEBccwOnd6YRGxALZkMxW00Vbekhw_fZvxuyRHr6tn8SpFWVB3z80h6DMFhbX3p5JgVvPDSrcxhPeEXeQ0e7yP84f2wxMB3JMz5DR0lCOLPQ=w883-h662-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MYZJo_y36pM4RbE8OLoB3L4WkZwks2HzKx2magG8MaSnAsCAst9ZMSLd_-LnmU9BYEn9tAZLYLKDhYjATDXUQ0KmKp0GCFlyJSdg2rtS84RhowcI0Ox8QKZ9jwC_Mgv62cfgjP1mLrdtc_XMekQu2g8jWsmviQAEOxUoL9whIrzknnCPSNkiTBbmbY3Jm3cA-j5XSDIKCQLXUsFwB8sMvUv0iLZlsdxtHnPDqmOr_6rGpQLoZIlvn6GmhfxPEB6mCXVdGP0s_rN3fZCVaGR30WLGBUk4IWMn1ldv2kWVI5b1LcbyEJvIrT03OFIubqn5aj1IAC67FbZqwSxm_MGPKX7bmR3sBqRVqdd6gPWi8LHkQTNZVRCwbryKAfusG6WyFPuetcyqK49RGHjCQ8ebUdhSMHLp5-kbipW_DKCnrhtwItzTClyQvJ_1MIZvDMLInC_sC23QwEycIO3HXMqvYwau9w8QXGGPCLOfx_quD8hQyGOczjCntWSh-KFYtymVNhk-oS7qhP4fMfAMUSl1eqNZcFa4tm6y9cV9fPFAfd8FVt3Zs8lIjcYJQL6w8idZR08sREICbVU_KBV8x4P6mPiCLe0SbsMjtz3JJ9k=w883-h662-no)
Picked up a few more parts for the 6-71 blower install. Originally I had planned to modify a factory GM points type distributor with an electronic pick-up module but decided to just buy new. The blower is not compatible with an HEI so it takes changing to a small cap style. The cost to rebuild and recurve a GM points type would be about the same as what I bought. Additionally this unit allows me to continue to use my multi-spark ignition box that I came to love.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uMCWmNJeNC1sAUVvrfJeysjMqGwAjFG8kseYt3eiaUplmHWe78PXc0i90cPtxx3XEQQNhr03dQ99G27N-6moNguhcggrwrVxNxnc1Swtcvk83kTh7c3jZ_P-S2RkE_mp2e6dpiu0ebY8yIzOKhIdeqPOSf6gzZDHmgCklOJcNRYZ8Dx3qgzotE-5cIs-126nrbxSJG9Zhzw0ytAWKIxWyFcqxM6kwUjFUO02_F9p7jL_KuAmCpApltmIEdBFrZ14oTf-u5IRyxvxl1B-3-fhkUWTyfhIcKGj7iJBb4lwg9otf72Qaeqi9yFih2rtVMnEzqFuvNDWgo1IZ1Hf_DuBm-4GlqwfZPI0dW9FdkuyRCgXoTHqTGoDwswOZ6DlczbF1wULxwZbTKviJ-H5VFlFGZiNB77AKI2vnGchLPMd45oWBAvW7MIR7XmNowgHPtXDCWJwWMfFjuTNiAmRLGDhHY5jLFJjDNL61__32AAtcJ13MIZogG0TZEv0kocgnc9XsMIhp4-4WqxR362N9dCk9ff1HEi1OF1rDzwz5F9wWH-in6jjAHW1zA7iiB5fn2EBGnf3H9ayp_byBTKr_B3JvB3SnBSVnfFv7IwS0Uw=w883-h662-no)
The chrome bracket is to mount the alternator so that it will run with the pulley system on the short/Corvette water pump. I will be fabbing the rest of the alternator bracketry, and power steering brackets before I install the blower. I'll post pics as that happens.
The harmonic balancer in the picture is made of steel. Since I don't plan on running a ton of boost I could probably get away with just using a stock or even a nodular iron balancer. The reason for the steel balancer is because the extra load placed on the keyway of the balancer by the blower drive. On a cast iron balancer there is a risk of the key camming out of the keyway under heavy loads. Steel balancers resist this.
Originally I was looking for standard steel harmonic balancer. I didn't have a need for an SFI approved unit, so I was reluctant to pay a $100 premium for same. Imagine my surprise when my balancer showed up and it was etched with the SFI logo. Obviously there is no "DFI" spec. Certainly these are blems, but good to know the safety margin exists just the same.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wnbsyXfzO2ohrpb2ufaGfFhgLmmU3CzXrbwdtEqy3pRKCBevBxsN5l_wY3AKgmvtB65UsRH64msoGx-nLAe26FRoJXEzZpYkejBqSb5lg0BNLVXj2dqu_uXX4iuA-TkEM2_HbNeymg8Yryo-STH6N-dzsePvofrT-hGQMwxn8ihkgXsOcHOGQsasJX40XwhmUN9dumMKN_12x2fZzXCJ_JDA26PiRkjkzXDBoJRpk8GMYzn-h-icuWVWWc2VUMTpHsNv8a2P-TK4qp2cZEsF0jq43oB4wkv9rkEZGimheKVmoUH6osqi4vIEOjHXKiUHNdHJQhosgIwMFkuGoOyCvc8tXxu57a7K3xqLu15JOAo7Uqk10ogF8_FkZNVOcV15K21S204_4DaTO4VrzFk8sBrgmVuxsMqwp9ZqqRGEspedN-fmy9KIrw2EeuelyXnSDy8eFdIbX8_k9nqj2n-YXsKuTZI4XC4HLl7rRnSms9focVjJENIdQCDoL_T-sl7F7KDrIMu9IgAlm6m_Wu8AM0_qu64YtpQMk7uxIhK0rlan5epOfjMylt2G_TRyjuLJq13xjglHnEns5BCVeuSF0m9lza4qC3cRqrWYKcA=w883-h662-no)
And the ever so critical timing marks that are totally necessary to tuning a blower engine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fQEB_mzqO5FLs9Xo9KglNRY1Wdezp6v-2QotpjVSqBeYFfu9roqWRyicZ8fNQJeYPYZxXvnnkFklQqqC6ACFSwnW3HHJhDj2HK_iCYGquheWWCIJiplGG2qtZ4sGfhksxaj4iPNUAPWFz25wnIDDZc_Et_hmTk0kYpulVXAEKo4pcX8uwLC_0ooiYICKVZ-p4wMO4tCkzaS1obstS-Ktizs_8POToHbguByaoZf2XdP-gf-WEggJEZpjjixeqJxB1O6_z8Lk707FAP1rEDvVqusWl72-jKqnc4xg-nNDoAEgGuFv5Tp2PInx5-uQwaEgEh2p-2moAEUR5QiJPvuRSL2w750uxHtxvKHFqgD19zOA7dVzl388R-4221O-92LnksxGHSC66F078vMCq3n5yV2nDMUkdRJ3LFP3KCJq44uoOG7yL6JHp21q1nElcDBYyRqDNbM5-eDaBBDUovA65G05htQr20nVRNQyp-NkduNyMPpTCH5GO8bkKAYyMEL4NHskCP1oYNcnW3RJveYeGd0VyJ8jvohVWSDns1HfSGD-bUnE0yRcfpEamhLj5i4wPd5rGN2Z0h_kQnkEP6g6848oQNzxVt__WHP2_sc=w497-h662-no)
Right now my focus is finishing a set of tires to transport the truck. Right now my metal wheels wont get the job done. First of all it won't climb my ramps to get up on the trailer. I have a couple of other finishing projects that have to be done in the next few weeks. If the weather is hospitable I have a show to take the truck to toward the end of this month, so, there is a sort of urgency.
Remember to check the facebook page. For the forseeable future there will be some really cool throw-back-Thursday posts every Thursday.
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Love it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thanks!
TbT:
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=399344763822899&id=387330345024341
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Not much to report. Many other distractions........mostly stuff that was neglected while trying to get the monster up and running.
Built some transporter tires recently:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ohRqsqqWn8H0jLdNWWhB2V867k-Y3CbFKukgs9fEBjbQU3Zu1y1qG0fENJ8El8oNGSzPtYt5xNl-r733Ube6fItKOBcg9bjGdkPFiitGPRgU4cs12OOIaRQVY6JDt1vEFbiIxiKYqI4ixIG41nnYbUgQfNqypwBqm_s_pSaGIfPOD-1G9bOeVDzhXb8bsItAoYxjOqRV-pS4qIcA6wAjhSNxDO1KZt2BZQD9A5RT103SNrOQc9-wjZoNA1ZMKn_b2NTR-P2F-YItE645FKoLTbUwpxdtFrkirfOXBMFGzGcjaTp2mCgRfzaxhMEbHCKBXIQVHibS4iwfRxv_zFeuUAcCtN1BZ0W3Ww5hXeioO005TYW1Ka9ZnJC8tuxr26fiGsY3YQfvbTFjTBegPzwNOyeSpay_idy56eo7rDhAyPtQ-xFcQlMuH92NorEr-UseqKJABENnS-4ppOev-gMhDNhWwRz_PeYt3t3KUud3KSS4SLt5C6O73PKhYYtcY6zYLpmIAgSRA8ayzjQ1TMRBgR3WUUmAOlC7fX9DXC_KNOhQzPw0x9RdrM1uY-nP94y5RvTfa2HdWXsx7F7gJFuz056kOAzUvYt8esU7_64=w883-h662-no)
Needed something so I can crawl up my trailer ramps. Also the bare steel wheels were marring up my shop floor.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aZg-1gnR9a7DukaSG787sDIzW1gAtlqW__SciDPUjqnbjBrw9PGrvBc4ttls5HSII6MVKtIt5PVFalFev7WqX1XEpXFhQ41ONzEzk4uIS0txWLlE7TKVQCLGqfr9My-cCYTPc51wP4MTHUf9F6jVB8IZLPDRuGfNKERQbuW4mGjH93_b7RVeV_nh_Q1oTkn8RcWipqlAM9ka3dWQ8A4iATTlhvDSc5WLsok8ReH3uvfhx0CWrK60H3twk4aIJvsJ7BgI62eh_T6qeaU27WDsFbXZbFGBlD5Fkl_b3wKTWSWIq_Qi11hVPHEz4fXoq37YaloBUzDE_ihYJDDlQ1an6-jxlBxrD3-G_t-0-iKxwUT34sKjDInCgr85qvvyG3cmcpdY4lbePNVb68ajv-Xe89NLi2_xzWxqoOBraJ5qj6QEhK8a8D_b8z2yy-Kt_95slLkItOR0b7ap88DKUg9zeiYr91o5fxJ2qyidmSE3LGQhNPEzRbDidHvfQbip3x4YM9cI4Il-9NenmpY4uVl7SsP5BSCRIebzM0cRYFYrufeiSaZjMhyV0H5Pdr3I-WjhA9NnGu_Hcqs6wdMSH7GYknoLY98e2ax1zZTvSlM=w883-h662-no)
And this week's bonus is another tube frame square monster:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3m0U6SQnvVsAdbtcU7494cvNRjtcxtiJe8M0rIS0HaYbJztOT_YJgx2vAw7NaS-9ZAyzQTb84eeJE0B5XsmLuPc47hdwjPMeQNMuLt6vSUKQhP2eGHElKqFHlklGBLr6S5R6uaZjFMyiz8sT-otQ2Kzw01400XwfN_hGiNwKClvshdmxaPFVlcUsIsM79gGidRYCEOxUEvMEqaHJcM50GMKxUIS5P5mfie6Gi-4zHE7I3Wv1GTkoTdVbbxytuz5ZlVAXdRQl51GcmOc-MgiR8o0-bfvf-DU-LjFtI6dGEPlhBRqjae9R8h53T13y_BcHxm--D3iKqMyZ5cM9Jxsq359vwHJOsZyl2df3VQ6Ftn-3TEx2L1h4mf4on5_omlfyRar1T6DWR9PlHyOQhTKZby55VH8IBbyolepRNSGgvK32sb1ELAzyz9hJLQM_t9m4Z1vYD7BgmrBUuG6NCe8l1eSM8L-rdeS81q9uhPi3E2Yj0vfyYnDHNkTc8tAuuLCAnYGyVkM07kyniG4OggsRBcmCfGZ5vznF-x7aHKbM-oSabFNEGXR5XrI9tS6dKlvbUeGwnwJIyzZPguVVIeA4It2yAI9ickUXp84gLqw=w960-h540-no)
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gotta love the visor, right vile????
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Vile this week’s tbt post is for you:
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=413307745759934&id=387330345024341
Enjoy:
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Hahaha. To each their own! I just wish some things never made it into the J.C. Whitney hall of fame ;D On that note I found some old catalogs and was laughing as I went through them. I remember when everyone wanted a ZR1 roll pan, visor, razor back, molded side steps, cab handles, running boards, headlight covers, CB antenna's and of course a rebel flag somewhere on their truck. It's all good, heck I'm working on my 74 again and going, what was I thinking when I did that? and I haven't even finished it yet! lol
So what did you bond your retreads with?
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Vile this week’s tbt post is for you:
Checked out the facebook page. Maybe I forgot you were a B-17 fan... Thought you might like this
Got to see Liberty Belle in Tulsa a few years before an engine fire forced her down and she burned up in a corn field. She was a beautiful plane. I've got several photos of her in Flickr.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3112/3155661909_c1aea2cb73_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/5NRAkX)
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Vile this week’s tbt post is for you:
Checked out the facebook page. Maybe I forgot you were a B-17 fan... Thought you might like this
Got to see Liberty Belle in Tulsa a few years before an engine fire forced her down and she burned up in a corn field. She was a beautiful plane. I've got several photos of her in Flickr.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3112/3155661909_c1aea2cb73_n.jpg)
(https://flic.kr/p/5NRAkX)
Jason thanks for sharing.
If you check out Scott Thompson’s website I gave him some pictures that he posted on his B-17 pages.
The pictures are of the Liberty Belle BEFORE she became the Liberty Belle. The pictures are from Tom Reilly Aviation waaaay back in the 90s. The Liberty Belle was a derelict at that point. It is amazing to see how they were able to make a beautiful Fortress from the hulks that were what I took pictures of. Heck, who knows, Scott may have included those pictures in the latest version of his book "Final Cut”.
http://aerovintage.com/b17news11.htm (http://aerovintage.com/b17news11.htm)
(http://aerovintage.com/485734-20.jpg)
Anyhow, it is a shame that the Liberty Belle was destroyed.
https://www.ntsb.gov/_layouts/ntsb.aviation/brief2.aspx?ev_id=20110613X14032&ntsbno=CEN11FA383&akey=1 (https://www.ntsb.gov/_layouts/ntsb.aviation/brief2.aspx?ev_id=20110613X14032&ntsbno=CEN11FA383&akey=1)
https://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/news/NTSB-Final-Report-On-Liberty-Belle-Crash-221975-1.html (https://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/news/NTSB-Final-Report-On-Liberty-Belle-Crash-221975-1.html)
Many B-17 veterans had signed the interior of the Liberty Belle and those were lost forever after the forced landing and fire.
Heartbroken, sad.
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Hahaha. To each their own! I just wish some things never made it into the J.C. Whitney hall of fame ;D On that note I found some old catalogs and was laughing as I went through them. I remember when everyone wanted a ZR1 roll pan, visor, razor back, molded side steps, cab handles, running boards, headlight covers, CB antenna's and of course a rebel flag somewhere on their truck. It's all good, heck I'm working on my 74 again and going, what was I thinking when I did that? and I haven't even finished it yet! lol
So what did you bond your retreads with?
Carriage bolts between the tread lugs.
I’m posting from my phone. I have some more mechanical updates that I’m not planning to add to the fb page. I was hoping that the rain would abate one of these Saturdays. If I can get a dry day I’m going to get the truck out for some better pictures and a video or three. If that doesn’t happen soon I’ll post some work I have done on the blower drive sooner rather than later. I have some videos of the truck driving around from back in January but they aren’t the best.
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Here is a video that we took back in January. I was hoping to get a better video by now but the weather has not been cooperative. We had snow showers all weekend.........
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=423809704709738&id=387330345024341
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Here is a view from the cab. A little bouncy. If we had it out more these bias ply tires wouldn’t be so prone to flat spots.
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=428770684213640&id=387330345024341
Also, check back here or on the Facebook page on Tuesday the 24th. I have some big news that I have been sitting on that should be official by then. The “higher ups” assure me that the details will be finalized by noon on that day.
-Eng
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Looks like fun
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Looks like fun
Haha! Yeah it’s a blast. There’s a private road near my house that I can use that allows us to stay off public roadways. You should see the reactions I get when I meet other motorists.
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Ive been following since you started. Thats so awsome to see it up and going. Love the old school monster trucks.
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So, it’s official today!
The truck this thread is about will be at the Bigfoot Open House! (Yeah, THE Bigfoot)
So if you are in the StLouis area on June 2 come out and see the Maiden America Monster Truck!
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=429809407443101&id=387330345024341
https://www.facebook.com/bigfoot4x4inc/posts/10156306173636873
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I plan on having it on display. Right now I have 4 dates in 2018 for sure if I can make it.
One will be in Zieg’s backyard. (hint Carl)
Planning on it, just gotta know when and where. Maybe I'll drive my extended cab there. Really be cool to get a picture of both side by side for kicks...
Carl, are you going to be able to come out to Pacific on the 2nd of June?
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I plan on having it on display. Right now I have 4 dates in 2018 for sure if I can make it.
One will be in Zieg’s backyard. (hint Carl)
Planning on it, just gotta know when and where. Maybe I'll drive my extended cab there. Really be cool to get a picture of both side by side for kicks...
Carl, are you going to be able to come out to Pacific on the 2nd of June?
yes, please send details
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I plan on having it on display. Right now I have 4 dates in 2018 for sure if I can make it.
One will be in Zieg’s backyard. (hint Carl)
Planning on it, just gotta know when and where. Maybe I'll drive my extended cab there. Really be cool to get a picture of both side by side for kicks...
Carl, are you going to be able to come out to Pacific on the 2nd of June?
yes, please send details
If I can find time I will call you in the next day or so. Is your number (H, IN) still the same as it was?
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You should bring that baby and camp out at the campground at Talladega nascar race
Since it’s private property apparently lots of people bring their monster trucks and drive em around the campground
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You should bring that baby and camp out at the campground at Talladega nascar race
Since it’s private property apparently lots of people bring their monster trucks and drive em around the campground
Wife and I are planning on buying an 18-wheeler to haul the monster. Once that happens we’ll only be constrained by our ability to afford diesel fuel.
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Here is a video someone posted on YouTube of the 2018 Bigfoot 4x4 Open House.
See if you recognize any of the trucks. 8)
https://youtu.be/7MkoJuuPMf4
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Hey gang!
Remember me?
I haven’t forgot about you guys. Have you been checking out the truck’s Facebook page? We have been posting more on it because it is easier to upload pictures. I’ll be more reliable about posting here when I do more to the truck.
Not much has been done to the truck lately. We bought a Freightliner Century to haul the monster with. Right now any work on the ‘77 has been held up largely because we are saving funds to buy a trailer for the Freightshaker. As with this whole project nothing is financed. It’s a hobby. No cash, no joy. So everything is sort of on hold until the trailer is bought.
We just found out that Bigfoot has invited us back to display our truck at their open house so it would be great if we can get a trailer before that happens.
Stay in touch,
-Eng
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Being invited to show your truck at the Big Foot open house is a monster accomplishment (see what I did there, ha ha).
You must be proud of the truck you designed & built.
The members on this forum were lucky to have had the opportunity to watch the progress of this build. We got to watch it from the start to where it will be shown alongside Big Foot.
Truly impressive.
Congratulations
Fitz.
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Very succinct and eloquently stated, Fitz. I agree wholeheartedly. It's been a privilege to watch Engineer's build evolve from plan to reality! Impressive, indeed!
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Hey gang!
Just curious, are all of the pictures gone out of this thread or am I the only one who can’t see them?
I had a crazy bad time of keeping the pictures viewable before. My choice to use gaggle for the photo host for this thread may have been folly. In case there are still a few people who resist fakebook I had intended to keep this thread up to date.
Been doing a few shows with the monster truck. Even have a real nice semi truck and trailer to haul the whole thing around with. At this point I’m trying to figure out if updating this thread is worth it or not. This is the only place the building of the Maiden America monster truck is documented anywhere on the Internet. However, the text is worthless without pictures. To put all of the pictures back would be monumental. The permanent files I have that built this thread contain over 500 pictures. It would take forever to put them all back.......and I had already began to do it from a prior temper tantrum between our isp at the time and gargle.
Well anyway. I sure miss the camaraderie of this forum.
Toodaloo,
-Engineer
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This issue is cropping up with greater frequency. Servers change. Files are renamed, relocated or removed. Addresses change. The end result is link failure.
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So, I have a really cool announcement to make.
I think this is a pretty neat way to validate our childhood dream. Our truck, the one that this thread is the subject of, will be forever immortalized in a toy die cast replica.
Greenlight toys is going to release it in their Kong’s of Crunch line. We will be part of series 7. I don’t have any way of sharing a picture at the moment. Right now all there is available are the design department’s artist rendering. Their 1d picture looks pretty sweet.
I am going to include a link to one of the online hobby shops that will offer it for sale. I hope this doesn’t cross any forum boundaries. It’s only picture I can find to share. Of course there are pictures on our monster truck’s fakebook page. Problem with that is you can’t link to those pictures from here.
https://www.3000toys.com/mobi/detail.aspx?sku=GREENLIGHT49070-A
What do you guys think? Pretty cool to see this build reach the levels that it has.
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cool deal and ill
prob WILL be getting one two (one for me and one for the kid). but i cant see the pictures now for some reason and it never dawned on me about the front clip. do you have a 80s front clip on or did they make a mistake?
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This is just too cool. I would love to have any Company like one of my trucks so much that they would choose to immortalize it.
Congrats!
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Irish- the grille and front end matches my truck. As you guys know, my truck started life as a ‘77 but I updated it with the newer front end sheet metal. Greenlight has a 1991 Blazer model so the fit was seamless.......btw, just one or two? I ordered 4 cases (200). Hehe. You should be able to find them at Hobby Lobby when they are finally available.
JAH- thanks for the kind words. You may try contacting Greenlight. They are constantly pumping out various cars and trucks of every theme. Maybe CaptKaos could get them to do a series of member trucks from this forum. Hmmmmm.........
I also forgot to mention that the first round will be the 1/64 scale. Greenlight is also going to build our truck in 1/43, and a massive 1/18 scale. The 1/18 trucks are about a foot long.
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I've personally seen this truck and it is impressive down to the wheel well opening moldings ;)... I want one when they come out.
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I've personally seen this truck and it is impressive down to the wheel well opening moldings ;)... I want one when they come out.
;D 8)
You would be hard pressed to find sharper wheel opening moldings.
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...JAH- thanks for the kind words. You may try contacting Greenlight...
I think my trucks are probably more notable to me than to Greenlight. ;D
...They are constantly pumping out various cars and trucks of every theme. Maybe CaptKaos could get them to do a series of member trucks from this forum. Hmmmmm......…
That would be AWESOME. 8)
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Very cool! Congrats on that!
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Very cool! Congrats on that!
Thanks!
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had to go to the pc site to order https://www.3000toys.com/Greenlight-Diecast-Maiden-America-1977-Chevrolet-K-10-Monster/sku/GREENLIGHT49070-A
on a side note i found hop's blazer from stranger things lol
(https://www.3000toys.com/images/JADA_TOYS/31114.jpg)
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8)
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Hopefully this link works:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/glcollectibles/49871951972/in/photostream