87' GMC v1500 GM crate 350 swap, won't start

[plowman]

I have verified I have spark at the coil and at the #1 plug wire.

I had the distributor off 180 deg at first but have adjusted it since. I have a mark on the manifold where the #1 post originally pointed towards. I have the distributor inserted so that when fully seated in the oil pump my number one post is on the mark and the rotor is pointing at my #1 post.

I have been using the notch on the balancer to align #1 at tdc befor dropping the dizzy in.

So although I haven't popped the valve covers off, or been using the finger over spark plug method (which seems like it could be inprecise). I think the timing should be close enough to start.

I have spun it at least half way each way between the next posts, and even took all the wires off and pushed them over a spot so I could spin it further forward because the plugs were starting to hit the firewall.

I feel like it is electrical since it will fire but not stay running. But obviously I don't know what is wrong so all I put is welcome

The next thing on my list to check currently is fuel pressure but I am waiting on the fuel filter adapter. So maybe double checking the timing mark on the balancer and insuring cyl 1 is infact tdc should be on the list.

[Irish_Alley]

tell you the truth i was stalling till these guys showed up but figured we could knock out some trouble shooting till they did.

[VileZambonie]

Did you replace the balancer?  Rotate the crankshaft until you know #1 piston is all the way up. Using a mirror and a flash light you can physically see the piston all the way up. Mark the balancer with zero on the timing tab at that point.

Also you can buy a borescope for your phone for dirt cheap on ebay. Those work great too to peak inside the cylinder but for immediate results use the light if you don't have one

[plowman]

The crate engine came from GM with a new balancer, I just installed the crank pulley

[82silverado]

The finger on #1 cylinder plug hole is not an unprecise way of ensuring you are on compression stroke. It is the best way to do it without pulling off the valve covers. I've done it for many years that way.

[VileZambonie]

There are two different indexing marks used on SBC balancers and often they are mismatched so you need to physically verify the mark at zero is truly TDC. Finger over the hole helps find the compression stroke but not necessarily TDC. Bottom line, do not trust the mark until you've verified it.

[Rattler12]

If it fires off with the starter fluid and promptly dies sounds like a fuel starvation/delivery problem

[plowman]

On my list of things to do today is to replace the injectors with a more reliable flow tested 350 set instead of the autozone slightly larger cop car injectors.

I will also be double checking the timing and resetting it to zero.  this time unplugging a brown/grey wire near the brake booster that runs out of the main loom to a connector and back in.  I have been told this should be disconnected to adjust timing.  Done in this sequence unplug befor turning on, turn ignition on while adjusting the timing, turn off and reconnect.
I have not done this at all so I am a little hopeful here.

I will also pop the #1 spark plug out and confirm compression stroke and if I can make any determination on the balancer marking accuracy with a flashlight and no borescope.  I'm gonna look at the cell phone borescopes today as well.

I think that's all I have to look at at this point though.

[plowman]

New
So a little update.

After checking fuel pressure it was showing that as I turned the ignition on and cranked the fuel pressure would climb then immediately fall off.

I have double checked the lines and replaced the pump again.

When I jump the pump from the relay I can hear a missing sound coming from the tb. I can't tell if it is air coming in or leaking out but there doesn't seem to be fuel leaking anywhere..

It sounds like I can hear fuel running back in to the tank which I assume is the return line doings it's job.

I am assuming at this point that there are one of two things happening.

1. I did something wrong when rebuilding the pressure regulator, and installing the new diaphragm. now somehow it is not regulating pressure correctly and is not giving my injectors the proper pressure.

2. I am slightly skeptical that the hardline on the sender unit in the tank is cracking inside the tank where it meets the cap and the fuel pressure is leaking there and draining back in to the tank.

What do you guys think? Any recommendations on the next step?
A moment ago EditDeleteReport+ QuoteReply

[Captain Swampy]

I agree with Vile. You need to get #1 at TDC on the compression stroke. I think you're off a tooth or 2 on the distributor. I wouldn't do anything else until you verify the timing marks line up with TDC and the distributor is correctly installed.

Yes, that wire has to be unplugged while setting the timing. It will set a code IIRC. You can't really set the timing until the engine is running.

From what I've seen Vile is an awesome mechanic. I would do whatever he suggests. If you do, it will be running shortly.

[plowman]

I had a friend help me check the timing.  He said it was off a tooth so we reset it, tried again, and rechecked.  He had his finger on the plug so we could confirm compression stroke and then he watched the balancer while a cranked it over by hand.  No change to speak of.

I am 95% sure it is fuel pressure at this point.  I suspect the fuel pressure regulator.  The filter adapter I used showed the system spike at first but was unable to hold fuel pressure.

I replaced the spring and diamphram in the regulator and I thought I had it in there ok.  I can't see any wrinkles in the diamphram along the outer seal, but maybe the spring isn't seated correctly or something?

I really can't understand the hissing sound from the tb when I jump the fuel pump.  I would think A leak in the system would cause fuel to be pushed out somewhere.  Not what sounds to be an air or vacume leak?

[VileZambonie]

I think you missed the whole verify your TDC mark post or you are just ignoring it. Until you have verified that you are going to be spinning your wheels.

[184Champion]

I agree with Vile Zamboni. You have to have 3 things to make this motor run, Compression which it sounds like you have, Fuel which is a question and Spark at the correct time. Like in the previous post verify your timing is correct. The thing that concerns me is the noise you are hearing when running the fuel pump all the time. It should maintain fuel pressure until the battery goes dead. If it's not then something is incorrect in the fuel pressure regulator you rebuilt. A good rule of thumb is to always start with what has been worked on and make sure it is correct before throwing parts at it.

[plowman]

I think you missed the whole verify your TDC mark post or you are just ignoring it. Until you have verified that you are going to be spinning your wheels.

In the post befor I mention very first thing we checked the timing.  We pulled the plug and insured it was on compression stroke.  From there I cranked it over by hand just enough to get the balancer mark to line up.  We then rechecked the dirtibutor, found it off a tooth.  Pulled the dizzy and got it set correctly.

We then tried to start it with no luck.  Pulled the number one plug again to insure compression stroke with the finger and lined the balancer back up.  Pulled the dist cap and insured we were still where we wanted to be.

Am I missing something?  Is there something else you think I need to do to insure tdc?  You want to borescopr it or something to insure the keyed balancers marking is in the correct place?

[gunrac]

Maybe this has been mentioned, but for around 10 bucks, you can get a piston stop tool. Why guess when it can be perfect. Simple to use, several learning videos to get you going.