Author Topic: Body work, Priming, Painting Questions  (Read 3368 times)

Offline 1967KaiserM715

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 914
  • 1985 GMC K1500 w/ 6.5 TD
Body work, Priming, Painting Questions
« on: September 02, 2016, 09:56:54 PM »
So, I have painted before, and I have used these products before, but not to the extent of what I wish to accomplish now. Nason products are the most available to me, I do have access to PPG Shopline stuff-but I know some of their primers aren't the great, and the whole line is really like a mid range product compared to Nason products.

I have Nason 491-16 Epoxy Primer/Sealer, normally it is a topcoat after 1 hour, nothing stated on the sheet otherwise as to how long you can go before needing to scuff/sand. Most of the painting I have done, I prime, then topcoat within 2 hours, and it is normally just a panel(like the outside of a door).

But I have a lot of body work and fill to do, and since I can only do paint on the weekends, time to top coat could be as much as 7 days. So I want to know if I block sand the whole surface that got primed, and then let it set the week before final paint(which will be a second coat of prime(this will actually be more like a sealer), then top coat-- that should be pretty much the came as doing a sand/scuff right before re-coating right? I mean essentially you are just scratching the surface to give the primer/paint a surface to bite into, so it shouldn't really matter when it got sanded. The reason also for scuffing/sanding a week before is I have heard that the Nason epoxy gets really hard to sand if left too long-so I don't want to have to really work at sanding it a week later, because that will put me in the same boat as before(priming a week before paint).

My second question has a little longer before I really worry about it, but I am thinking about doing either a UPOL Raptor liner(Tintable) or SEM Rock-It liner(Tintable) for the bed; do I really need to worry about getting paint on the bed, or will I be fine going over the primer? Just want to save some money on paint, and I'm sure that bed will take close to a quart if not more.

Thanks for any input.
Current Vehicles:1985 GMC K10(Daily) 1991 GMC K2500(Daily) 1975 Beetle(not running) 1985 Mercedes 300D(not running) 1952 M35    1967 M715(not running)
 1986 Chevy K30(under repair)

Offline AZ4X4SQBDY

  • Registered Users
  • *
  • Posts: 149
  • Newbie
Re: Body work, Priming, Painting Questions
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2016, 07:55:37 AM »
http://www.axaltacs.com/content/dam/NA/HQ/Public/Nason/Documents/TDS/NSN-TDS-491-16-Eng.pdf

SANDING
1 hour at 70-80°F (21-27°C) Overnight
Ful-Poxy® 491-16TM DTM Epoxy Primer/Sealer may be recoated at any stage of cure. It can be topcoated within 24 hours air dry without sanding. If Ful-Poxy® 491-16TM DTM Epoxy Primer/Sealer is baked it must be sanded with P400-P600 before top coating

I read this as it's ok as long as you sand it.

I had this same question with PPG epoxy primers a long time ago when I first started doing body work and nobody could answer it.
1987 GMC Sierra Classic 4x4 short, fleet, 1985 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4 short, step side, '87 Chevy Silverado short fleet, '91 Dodge Ramcharger LE 4x4,
2005 Porsche Boxster S,1982 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce

Offline AZ4X4SQBDY

  • Registered Users
  • *
  • Posts: 149
  • Newbie
Re: Body work, Priming, Painting Questions
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2016, 08:08:39 AM »
Preparation: U-POLs Truck Bed Liner can be applied to most original manufacturers finishes. The surface should be lightly scuffed, and free from dirt and rust. For best results bare metal should be treated with a suitable etch primer e.g. U-POL ACID#8 (UP0776/ UP0741)

Sorry, forgot about the second part of your question.

As long as you have paint, a urethane primer, or etching primer, you should be ok. I'm pretty sure what they are looking for is the adhesion of the top coat that you will be applying their product on top of. A quick search of different forums showed the 4x4 guys saying they had good luck with it .

I'm going to be doing one of my beds shortly and this was good to know.
1987 GMC Sierra Classic 4x4 short, fleet, 1985 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4 short, step side, '87 Chevy Silverado short fleet, '91 Dodge Ramcharger LE 4x4,
2005 Porsche Boxster S,1982 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce

Offline 1967KaiserM715

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 914
  • 1985 GMC K1500 w/ 6.5 TD
Re: Body work, Priming, Painting Questions
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2016, 08:42:02 AM »
http://www.axaltacs.com/content/dam/NA/HQ/Public/Nason/Documents/TDS/NSN-TDS-491-16-Eng.pdf

SANDING
1 hour at 70-80°F (21-27°C) Overnight
Ful-Poxy 491-16TM DTM Epoxy Primer/Sealer may be recoated at any stage of cure. It can be topcoated within 24 hours air dry without sanding. If Ful-Poxy 491-16TM DTM Epoxy Primer/Sealer is baked it must be sanded with P400-P600 before top coating

I read this as it's ok as long as you sand it.

I had this same question with PPG epoxy primers a long time ago when I first started doing body work and nobody could answer it.
Interesting, that isn't quite the same tech sheet I get with the paint, main difference is topcoat and sanding- mine has no reference to sanding, top coat was after 1 hr@70 degrees or overnight. Other then that it appears identical.

And thanks for backing up the U-POL sheet, I have seen only good reviews on it, figured it had to work well on a properly scuffed surface. I plan on tinting the liner with my paint, most recommend about 6 to 9 oz of I believe urethane paint to tint, and have only seen 1 review where the guy used less paint and it did not match at all(came out lime green on his dark green truck.)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Current Vehicles:1985 GMC K10(Daily) 1991 GMC K2500(Daily) 1975 Beetle(not running) 1985 Mercedes 300D(not running) 1952 M35    1967 M715(not running)
 1986 Chevy K30(under repair)