Troubling engaging when cold.

[JohnnyPopper]

Yes, great video, just watched.

I'm getting 15 MPG at 2500 RPM, with a 800' hill between my office and home.

[bd]

The wheel bearings support the mass of the vehicle and allow the axles to rotate freely with minimal friction. 

The design of vintage GM outer axle bearings relies on the axles to serve as the inner races of the bearings.  That is, the rollers of the outboard bearings ride directly against the smoothly machined and case hardened surfaces of the axle shafts just inboard of the axle flanges. 

When servicing axle seals and bearings it is crucial to inspect the axles as well as the bearings for visible damage (image).  Axle seal leakage often occurs when a bearing and axle have reached the end of their useful service lives and either allow excess radial (side-to-side) play in the axle shaft or metal particles spall and flake from the bearing surfaces to contaminate and wear the seal lip.

Is there any unusual noise emanating from the rear axle?  Because of the ages and varied histories of 40+ year old trucks, I recommend capturing the differential oil in a clean pan and inspecting it in bright sunlight for a pearlescent sheen.  Next, drag a clean magnet through the oil.  If the oil appears pearly or the magnet is coated in a fine metallic goo or metal grains, be prepared to completely disassemble and inspect the drive axle internal components for excess wear.  If the oil is metal free, there is much less call for concern and you can focus on the axles, bearings and seals.

[Spool]

Thanks Johnny,
That's incredible! 15mpg...
That's already double what I get on the highway.

BD, good to hear from you- it's been a long time. Hope you've been well.
Your post scares me, as I'm already racking up a bill close to $1500 on this job if I include the bearings and axle seals.

I'm not the one doing the service, I could ask the mechanic to inspect as you suggested, but I'd be looking at an additional what- $1000 on top of it if the axle itself needs to be replaced?
And then, if the axle needs to be replaced, I'm not also gonna have to replace the differential/pumpkin itself, would I?

What would the pros/cons be of doing the bearings and axle seals, but leaving a corroded axle for a few months?
I'd obviously save the cost now to postpone for a few months, but the cons would be what?

[philo_beddoe]

These big jobs, if repaired properly, are one-time expenses that should last for many many years.  A new truck payment is what $800/month for 5 or 6 years? Repairing an older truck then driving it is fun. That perspective always makes me feel better.

[bd]

These big jobs, if repaired properly, are one-time expenses that should last for many many years.  A new truck payment is what $800/month for 5 or 6 years? Repairing an older truck then driving it is fun. That perspective always makes me feel better.

This ^^^^^.


I didn't intend to paint a picture quite that foreboding, so don't be coaxed to the edge of a cliff.  The point is to be aware of the potential for unforeseen issues and be prepared ahead of time so as not to be blindsided or caught short and left gasping.  Stay on top of it with a plan and it will amount to maintenance rather than a frantic money-fest. 

That said, if the axle is damaged, replace it along with the bearing and seal at the same time.  Bearings require smooth surfaces to function properly and provide extended service lives.  A rough surface can damage a new bearing in short order.  If oil has oozed past the seal for long enough, in sufficient quantity, the brake shoes will need replacement and everything thoroughly degreased.  The good news is that unless the drive axle has been growling, chances are high that a new seal alone will resolve the leak.  Just be prepared for more once it is taken apart.  Maintaining old equipment can be a disadvantage if you have to pay someone else to do all of the work.

[Spool]

Hey Guys.

Got the full service done. Replaced the bearings in there. I wasn't aware that each side had a set of bearings.
Transmission runs just as it should with no more trouble engaging first.
The mechanic said there was no damage to the axel as well.
He also completely disregarded the sway bar bushing repair, but didn't charge me for it either.

I've attached a screenshot to show the costs of repairs if it helps anyone in the future.
Bearings cost $50 a piece, to a total of $200.
Labor on the transmission was $250.

But does anyone have an idea as to why the engine is now smoking?
https://youtu.be/qWeqwowSEA0

The truck did sit for a year collecting dust & webs.
Yet, the shop cleaned everything really nice when replacing the valve cover gaskets.
I can't see anything touching the headers, and have heat sleeves for the cables near by.
Does anything come to mind as to what it could be?

[JohnnyPopper]

Where is the smoke originating?

Out of Tailpipe?

Exhaust manifold?

Somewhere under the chassis?

Front Seat?

[Spool]

Here's the video I posted above:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWeqwowSEA0&feature=youtu.be

It's kinda hard to tell where it's coming from as it's not exactly billowing out from a specific source.
Yet, it's the drivers side of the engine near the headers.

I've checked to see if my cables were burning, they're not.
And at first I thought maybe the mechanic split some oil on the block or headers that was just now burning off, but it also doesn't seem to be that either.

[frotosride]

Honestly because of the way the smoke rides straight up and isn't puffing as if there is an exhaust leak, something is burning off. Check your around your valve covers and the gasket. make sure they are tight. Use an inspection mirror and look just behind your drivers side valve cover for the oil pressure switch that controls the fuel pump power. See if that tube, fitting or sensor is leaking.

[JohnnyPopper]

Honestly because of the way the smoke rides straight up and isn't puffing as if there is an exhaust leak, something is burning off. Check your around your valve covers and the gasket. make sure they are tight. Use an inspection mirror and look just behind your drivers side valve cover for the oil pressure switch that controls the fuel pump power. See if that tube, fitting or sensor is leaking.

What the heck???

[Spool]

I got under it today after driving for a mile or two.
There's oil dripping onto the driver's side header.

It's coming from the back end, so it maybe something silly like a loose oil filter or perhaps they botched the valve cover gasket job.

I'm just gonna bring it back to the shop on Monday and have them fix it.

[frotosride]

Honestly because of the way the smoke rides straight up and isn't puffing as if there is an exhaust leak, something is burning off. Check your around your valve covers and the gasket. make sure they are tight. Use an inspection mirror and look just behind your drivers side valve cover for the oil pressure switch that controls the fuel pump power. See if that tube, fitting or sensor is leaking.

What the heck???

Jonny, ya got me. thats my senior moment for the day....

[JohnnyPopper]

As long as it’s one a day! LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Spool]

The oil was coming from the valve cover gasket they just replaced...

They're having trouble finding bushings for the sway bar. Does anyone have a lead?

[TexasRed]

summit racing? or rock auto?