Grounds

[zmanabba]

Just thought I would share with the group what I have been going through and the fix. I had been chasing an intermittent charging problem. Some times, when under load ( headlights, heater and wipers on) the voltmeter would drop down to 10 volts even at highway speeds. I noticed that my headlights would flicker and at times my radio would cut out also. Verifying that my alternator was making good power, 14.6 volts, I started with the headlights and checked all of the connections. Including the grounds, those I sanded to good metal. The situation improved but I would still get a low reading intermittently. Knowing that all of my power connections were good and clean I went to the ground wire between the frame and the body and sanded the connections clean. Better but still reading 12 volts at times. Finally I looked at the body to engine ground. The factory has the engine part connecting to the valve cover to me this wasn't optimal but it had been working for 5 years. I went ahead and installed an aftermarket ground strap ( NAPA I think ) that I had on the shelf, from the body to the Edelbrock Performer intake. I now have the full 14.6 going to the gauge. As a side note I no longer have the voltmeter moving in time to the turn signal lol. The body to engine ground strap made the most difference but all of the grounds contributed. I hope that this saves someone some grief down the road.   

[bd]

The factory has the engine part connecting to the valve cover to me this wasn't optimal but it had been working for 5 years. I went ahead and installed an aftermarket ground strap ( NAPA I think ) that I had on the shelf, from the body to the Edelbrock Performer intake.

Thanks for the heads up, but the factory never grounded the cab to a valve cover bolt.  I agree that is a lousy location for a ground connection (although, shade tree mechanics do it far too often)!  Someone probably reattached the ground strap there after an engine (or cylinder head) R&I, because it was easier than reattaching it to the factory location.  The factory cab-to-engine ground strap connects between the firewall sheet metal and the rear of the right cylinder head. 

Incidentally, you should relocate the ground strap from an intake manifold bolt to the factory position since intake manifold bolts gradually loosen with engine hour accumulation.  The factory ground attachment locations provide a more consistent ground path over time.

[Rapid Roy]

Incidentally, you should relocate the ground strap from an intake manifold bolt to the factory position since intake manifold bolts gradually loosen with engine hour accumulation.  The factory ground attachment locations provide a more consistent ground path over time.
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Do you have diagram or pic of correct factory location?

[bd]

No diagram, but the cylinder head has several holes tapped with 3/8" x 16 TPI thread.  The positions of the holes on the rear of the right (passenger side) cylinder head mimic those on the front of the left (driver side) cylinder head.  Use a ~3/4" long Grade 5 bolt and split lock washer to retain the strap to the head after burnishing away any paint and rust from the attachment point.

[zmanabba]

Thank you! That is great information and yes that's the way it was when I bought the truck. I will relocate to the factory location when the weather warms up lol