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July 10, 2024, 12:48:01 PM by mamaya3367 | Views: 862 | Comments: 34

Hello Everyone,  New to the forum.

I have a 1986 K10 I just purchased.  The seatbelt light stays on all the time with the ignition on.  The buzzer comes on and turns off within 10 sec. but the light stays on.  If I pull the seatbelt the buzzer shuts off but the light stays on.  I've searched the forum with not much luck.  If someone out there has seen this issue please chime in.  I could use the help. Thanks,  mamaya3367
July 07, 2024, 01:16:51 PM by IdahoMan | Views: 266 | Comments: 3


Truck: 81 Silverado. The black washers on the interior side of the vent window handles are breaking apart, and the roll-pin keeps walking out on the driver's side.

Qs:
-What kind of washer do I need to replace it with?
-Can I get it at the local hardware store, or the fasteners section of a NAPA?
-Size?
-Anything I need to know about assembly?


Thank you,
IM
MY1978
July 06, 2024, 07:53:37 AM by MY1978
Views: 343 | Comments: 6

Hello -

Haven't posted in a while but through I would pick some brains on this. I was at a car show over the weekend (spectator not showing) and we were talking to someone showing that had the old R12 system still. My other half commented that you cannot get R12 anymore and if you do find it, it is EXTREMELY expensive. The owner of the vehicle stated that since the conversion to R134A, you can find it on Ebay for reasonable pricing. I have done some investigating and there is something out there call Enviro-Safe Arctic Air and comes in a kit with 4 cans of refrigerant, oil, seal and gauge. Has anyone every used this and if so, does it work.

Thanks
July 03, 2024, 09:37:08 AM by petrified_peach | Views: 342 | Comments: 8

Hey folks, Iíve got a Ď73 C10 and the horn stays on. The black wire to the button is in good shape, Iíve taken the steering column apart to where the black wire ends and it still stays on. Tested resistance from relay end to the horn end of the black wire, relay end to first copper switch, and relay end to second switch, all test fine. I replaced the steering column last year and I remember the horn doing this with that one too. Iíve tried a new relay, Iíve tried a new horn and a new relay, and I believe something is just blowing up my relays. The last new one I tried now tests about 18ohms. With relay in and horn disconnected, the relay is really warm to the touch. Everything is wired according to schematics (no horn fuse), and I am STUCK. My next step was to try a 4 pin relay with a ground, anything else I should keep an eye out for? Or a different opinion on why itís blowing relays?

Thanks
berserk
July 03, 2024, 01:23:12 AM by berserk
Views: 321 | Comments: 6

Has anyone experienced an idle mixture screw backing out presumably from vibration over time? The carb is 10 years old with around 15k miles and I haven't touched it once since the initial setup and it has been solid.

I recently had to move my K10 into daily duty and with the 50-90 % humidity in Oklahoma I have been having some drivability issues. Once the heat index reaches 90 or above I'm getting a bog/stumble/hesitation. I definitely thought it was carb related but until yesterday I hadn't had time to look.


I got off work and it was starting to act up as it was hot and I decided to readjust my idle mix screws. And..... One of the screws was so loose I could adjust it with my fingers!! It was backed out so far I could see at a glance how much more it was turned out than the other. I zeroed them out and noticed the passenger side was difficult to turn while the driver side was very easy and smooth.... Anyways, backed them out 2 full turns and adjusted by ear and it's and entirely different truck!!!

I have way better throttle response, idle isn't as choppy, smooth acceleration and what feels like 20+ more HP!

Any ideas on my issue with the idle mix screws?? Why is one difficult to turn the other way to easy? Anyone had the screw back out on it's own? I looked at a parts list and didn't see a seal for the mix screws which surprised me.
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