Going to switch my 1987 R-10 to a 4x4

[1976Scottsdale]

I was looking around all weekend for a good 4x4 chassis and people were wanting way too much money for them, like 500 for a bare frame and stuff... actually thats not too bad, just way more than I have to play with right now.  I called a friend as a last resort and ended up buying a 1985 chassis with no rust-thru, 3/4 ton front springs, and a total of 3" of lift with the steering and stuff still attached.  I gave him 50 bucks for it.  The only thing I noticed was that the engine crossmember is a bit different that the old 76 frame I had the last time I did a swap like this.  My dad gave me a set of rebuilt 4.10 front and rear axles with lockers in both, so that means mud will be no problem with 31 to 33 inch tires.  The frame also came with the old axle housings, not good for much, but makes it easier to move, and a set of decent chrome 15x10 rims and some nice 32 10.50 tires.  I want to keep my TBI system, will all of my tanks and wiring and lines mount to the 85 frame without much modification?

[VileZambonie]

Sweet! I was almost gonna buy a rolling frame with 35"s on it the other day just to hang on to but I decided I have enough crap hanging around. If your truck has a good body and you've already got the TBI set up you're going in the right direction!

[Blazin]

The holes for your fuel tank brackets are a bit different. Some of them line up but not all. As far as lines they should lay against the frame similar but I am sure the hold down holes will be different. All you need to do is drill new holes and tap them, or move the hold downs.

[1976Scottsdale]

Thats not too bad.  Both trucks are dual tanks, so could I just put my tanks in the other brackets?  Not a problem either way, was just curious.  I love the TBI because I never have to adjust it  or anything else.  I did rebuild the TBI unit, but it was entitled to that after 21 years of faithful service with no issues until now.  The truck runs and drives great, I am just gonna put rings, bearings, and valve seals in the orignal 305 and put it in the 4x4 for now since money is tight.  Then I can still drive it and maybe sell of my 4x2 700R4 and make enough money off of it to build my 350 or 383 shortblock.  I already have some 64cc heads with 2.02/1.60 valve, new .500 springs, and keepers and studs, etc.  So I don't have to buy those.  And best of all, the truck never had the smog pump and stuff from the factory, just a cat converter, so that's less to fight with.

[Blazin]

The brackets have the holes. You will need to weld new nuts in the correct places is all. I never new this until I used a set of 74 Brackets with a brand new tank from a parts truck on my 86. I just welded new nuts over the holes on the brackets and whalla!

[jc1340]

if you have a c10 2 wheel drive you can use your frame . take the front spring brackets from the 4x4 frame off and put them on yours. take off the front coils and control arms and use the leaf springs from the 4x4. use the trans and transfer case from the junk frame with the cross member and you will be all set . it is not an easy job but it can be done.

[Blazin]

If you go the 2x frame route you will need to swap the front suspension cross member for the 4x4 engine cradle. You also need to swap the rear spring hangers as the 4x4 ones are taller / hang down below the frame more than the 2x ones. You will need to swap the 4x4 radiator support mounts too. If you were to go that route you can use the C20, & C30 frames too. More work than its worth!

[1976Scottsdale]

I think I will just switch the blody over with a 2" body lift to let the transfer case fit decently.  The frame is in great shape so I know I'm not gonna hack it up to make my existing one work.  Was wondering, even though I know there is a post on it someplace, which body bushings do I need to keep, the ones fromy my cab or the ones for the frame I bought?  I'll be getting poly bushings at some point, just not yet.

[Blazin]

Use the ones that got with the year frame you are using. You can cut out the center hump and install the 4x4 one so you don't have to body lift it.

[red4wd]

I agree with Blazin get the 4x4 center hump.  They are easy to take out just drill the spot welds out and then with just a little prying it will come out. When you are ready to cut the hole out of your floor you can just follow the indention around the 2wd center hump and that will leave you with a good lip to install the 4wd center hump.  Then you can apply a good coat of seam sealer on the inside and outside and you are good to go.