73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Fuel Systems and Drivability => Topic started by: Skunksmash on November 30, 2009, 04:00:25 PM
-
I am looking to replace my injectors for cheap if I can. At Autozone/O'rielly's/Napa they are all around $100 each. I found these for a 305:
http://www.shopinjectors.com/injectors/gmc/tb117.htm
Would they work on my 1987 5.7L R10 pickup? Seems like there might not be that much difference between the 5.0L and the 5.7L
-
305 and 350 use different injectors. I got mine from Autozone they were about $79. PN 800-1807N
-
Yeah. Not really an inexpensive way out, on this one. Autozone here I come.
-
yea the 305 injectors will run lean in a 350 and the computer will throw a fit. Just get the right ones
-
There should be no reason to replace injectors unless they are broken. you will save money if you clean them instead.
-
I was kinda thinking about that, but I have ran all the top recommended chemicals through them. Maybe they could be taken out and cleaned somehow? Sounds like it would be difficult though, to not damage the injector when trying to clean it.
-
i think some shops do it but i think they hook it up, almost like if they were going to flush the trany, but i dont know anything about them i never done nor have i seen it done
-
best way to do it is take the injectors out and send em in to be cleaned in a ultrasonic bath while they have a harness hooked to em to cycle em while they are in the solution.
Good before and after video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUPqrgZdIU8
-
Most of the shops that do that type of cleaning around here, wont save you any money. Just get new ones, I dont think you'll regret it later.
-
I have an awesome fuel injection cleaning system that actually works. It's a 3 part system. Step one cleans the injectors, step two cleans the intake and step three is a solution that goes in the tank. I did it on a Camaro the other day and the guy came back saying his car starts easier, runs better, has way more noticeable power than ever and gets better mileage. I use it quite frequently. Before I invested in it I was skeptical as I've never seen any products work very well in the past but after the last year or so I'm convinced it's not snake oil. I also use their trans and cooling system products/machines. Here's the link
http://www.bgprod.com/products/fuelair.html
-
yea BG is good stuff, but it really doesn't do the same amount of cleaning as taking em out and new ones are not a balanced set that you would get back from the cleaners.
-
So from the factory, GM made sure that each vehicle got a balanced set of injectors? Kinda makes you wonder about buying new ones, even like a kit that comes with the typical 8 injectors for a newer V8.
Hey vile, which products on that page are part of the system you are talking about? I mean, which ones did you use. You can't really click on them to see their prices.
-
GM balancing injectors? Yeah right.... You'd have to take it somewhere and have it done as if you wanted to do it yourself you'd have to buy the equipment which is $$$$
-
Don't know what all would be involved in balancing injectors. It seems to me that you would be just trying to get two of them with the exact same spray pattern and spray volume, when you got brand new ones. Which would be next to impossible. Or are yall saying that they take two different ones, (non balanced) and then do something to them that balances them?
-
They take 2 injectors and match them.
-
They are not balanced... They are designed to have a target spray pattern. aside from that they are pulse width modulated by the pcm. The system balances itself. If you are cleaning them, then just clean them and call it a day. If you are replacing them then do yourself a favor and get a tbi rebuild kit while you're at it. You may need one of these too http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-TBI-Throttle-Body-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Spring_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53dd2a5b3aQQitemZ360192826170QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
-
Im kind of intimidated by rebuilding the throttle body. Cause if I screw up then, I have nothing to drive till I get it figured out. I was thinking injectors cause a monkey could replace them in these trucks.
-
They are simple to rebuild. I need to put the article and pictures up in the tech section where I pulled mine down, but they are SIMPLE, there is really nothing to screw up on one.
-
Here's some pix... it's easy
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=6233.135
-
I think that the pics you are referring to have been removed.
-
I am going to try and upload the article I have this weekend.
-
What do you mean they've been removed?
It's just to show you how easy it is to pull apart
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y228/Sabaka454/mt009.jpg)
-
Think there would be any point in vatting any of that? Or instead just do the rebuild, and maybe replace the injectors, and skip any cleaning/vatting.
Also, I hunted until I found a way to be cheap. ;D Here is the injector:... ok ...or not. Anyway, you just use that page to select the proper vehicle and engine size and part, and they do have a refurb for the 5.7L for $31 with like a $30 core charge.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
And here is the remanufacturing process they put them through. I checked and you just mail in your cores and they credit the card you paid with.
http://info.rockauto.com/GB/Detail.html?83114109.jpg
I called these guys and they said that it's likely that they can even give me a balanced set, all they would have to do is check the specs and pluck a couple of remans that had the same specs after the remanufacturing process. Kinda wonder if it will actually help, but eh, who knows.
-
I never said GM balanced em, I said its a benefit to sending em off to be cleaned. They get flow tested to see how equal they are.
-
I was replying to the post above mine otherwise I would have quoted you if I was replying to you. Go back and re-read.
-
I also came across these babies:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5235206-5-7L-55lb-61lb-Flow-Matched-TBI-Injectors_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ca7995134QQitemZ260509880628QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
They might be a safer bet than the other place I found, since the other place would be going out of their way to put together a matched set.
-
Hey vile, what's that thing in this pic? Is that the IAF or IAT (or whatever) sensor?
-
Idle Air Control Valve.
-
Cool thanks I still need to replace that thing. Never got around to it, and I'm hoping it can help to cure my rough idle when I do a cold start.
-
Well since my original question has been answered, I may as well use it to go off topic and ask about something else.
I replaced my Idle Air Control Valve, and it seems to have helped. But of course my old plug on the truck cracked and crumbled. So it looks like I'll be buying this:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BOR0/PT773.oap?year=1987&make=Chevrolet&model=R10&vi=1059825&keyword=idle+air+control&partType=01517&parentPartType=C0018
All the wires on that are black, and all the wires on mine are color coded. Which method would you use, to make sure you wired it up right? Wrap tape around each one and label it? Also would you just use electrical tape, or would you heat shrink it? I'm going to have to say heat shrink.
-
Definitely shrink wrap. I'd focus on lining up the lock tab, then systematically butt connect one wire to the corresponding black wire. How bad is your original connector?
-
I assume your link was for a new pigtail? Just cut and solder each wire one at a time. Use shrink tubing. No butt connectors.
-
Definitely shrink wrap. I'd focus on lining up the lock tab, then systematically butt connect one wire to the corresponding black wire. How bad is your original connector?
It's almost completely deteriorated. I don't think it's making good contact anymore, cause now the engine is running rough, with a very high idle.
-
Is it visually ok to compare the two together to match up the individual wires?
-
That's how I'm gonna do it. I'm just not going to cut them all at once. Just cut one, then it's easy to tell which wire it goes to cause you still have the old connector still connected, for reference. Then solder and connect the new wire. Do them all one by one, so there is no chance of connecting the wrong wires. The plastic on my 4 pin connector has cracked almost all the way off, making it almost impossible to properly connect the wire. O'reilly's has the new connector for around $22, but you might be able to find a cheaper one online somewhere.
Here is one:
http://www.rs-autosport.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=235.
Nevermind, I take that back. They have the shady practice that many companies do where they show a cheap price tag, but then when it comes time to pay it's something totally different. $5 went up to $20 when it came time to check out lol. That's a 400% price increase. May as well go get it from oreillys and not have to wait on shipping.
-
Yea, I wasn't thinking about soldier- I don't have one. Yep soldier and shrink wrap and you're good. Let us know the details.