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« Last post by MY1978 on October 01, 2023, 07:32:55 AM »
A little sidebar.... Fuel gauge needles bouncing in sync with bumps, turns, acceleration, and braking (in other words, fuel sloshing in the tank) are often a result of dry needle bearings. Fuel gauge needles are mechanically dampened from the factory using viscous fluorocarbon gel, or dampening fluid, that fills the narrow gaps between the needle axles and their support bushings. The dampening fluid gradually dissipates over many years leaving the needles instantly responsive to signal noise as the sender floats bounce around in the tanks. Various solutions are to install a new gauge, have the gauge professionally refurbished, or attempt to recharge the fluid yourself using a syringe and 30,000+ centistoke (cSt) silicone or fluorocarbon gel dampening fluid.
FYI - I do not have bouncing - solved that with the sender being replaced. Now I have it showing I have less fuel in the tank than I really have - by 4-5 gallons. Might seem like a dumb issue, but just like to know how much is TRULY there. I do not have a trip meter to set to remind me of how many miles I have driven on a tank of gas. I don't even know if they had them back in the day - at least on trucks.
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« Last post by MY1978 on October 01, 2023, 07:29:20 AM »
The fuel gauge wire connecting to the fuel tank sender is 18-gauge tan. If you're fortunate, that tan wire runs down the inside of the right (passenger side) frame rail to a single-wire harness plug located somewhere in the area between the front of the transmission and the transmission rear cross member. If you can find that plug, disconnect it and perform your tests there. The wire you're working with runs forward.
Thanks, will try this today and report back.
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« Last post by VileZambonie on October 01, 2023, 06:46:35 AM »
If getting under the truck is too difficult for you, pop the fuel gauge out and using your meter, measure the resistance at the gauge post. Then compare that to the reading at the cluster connector.
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« Last post by bd on September 30, 2023, 10:57:51 PM »
I'm going out on a limb here, but it sounds like the rear window mechanism and glass channels are dry as a bone. The motor contains an integrated circuit breaker that may be cycling open-closed-open-closed... due to the mechanical load on the motor. If you lubricate the mechanism and channels liberally and verify proper channel alignment you might be pleasantly surprised.
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« Last post by bd on September 30, 2023, 10:46:40 PM »
A little sidebar.... Fuel gauge needles bouncing in sync with bumps, turns, acceleration, and braking (in other words, fuel sloshing in the tank) are often a result of dry needle bearings. Fuel gauge needles are mechanically dampened from the factory using viscous fluorocarbon gel, or dampening fluid, that fills the narrow gaps between the needle axles and their support bushings. The dampening fluid gradually dissipates over many years leaving the needles instantly responsive to signal noise as the sender floats bounce around in the tanks. Various solutions are to install a new gauge, have the gauge professionally refurbished, or attempt to recharge the fluid yourself using a syringe and 30,000+ centistoke (cSt) silicone or fluorocarbon gel dampening fluid.
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« Last post by JohnnyPopper on September 30, 2023, 09:09:30 PM »
Most wiring under the carriage is covered with (fill in the blank).
Use brake cleaner to dissolve gunk to ID the color.
Then use the same to blow off the gunk and debris off the connector bd speaks of before disconnecting and testing.
Use the same to find a shiny metal surface to conduct your test, although you may have to burnish a location in addition to cleaning.
Curious to see how this turns out, I too have a bouncing needle on both tanks.
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« Last post by Dr_Snooz on September 30, 2023, 09:07:06 PM »
Oh, I forgot the best part! I bought a keyless controller for my rear window. I laugh hysterically every time I use it... https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmykSvd_9WdWhM0WJys1AJCOjftvBg?e=KxPGMS(Just a link to my OneDrive account, because I don't know how to embed video on this site.) It's a cheap eBay special, so what do you expect lol? I'm glad it works at all, because it's better than me stooping down in a crowded parking lot to short the wires hanging down beneath my rear bumper. That makes it hard to hide how easy it is to get into the truck. I'll reach out to the seller to see if they have any guidance. They'll probably just send me another one and we'll all cross our fingers and hope it works rofl.
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« Last post by Dr_Snooz on September 30, 2023, 08:47:07 PM »
Great progress! Keep going man!
Thank you, kindly!
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« Last post by bd on September 30, 2023, 08:46:48 PM »
The fuel gauge wire connecting to the fuel tank sender is 18-gauge tan. If you're fortunate, that tan wire runs down the inside of the right (passenger side) frame rail to a single-wire harness plug located somewhere in the area between the front of the transmission and the transmission rear cross member. If you can find that plug, disconnect it and perform your tests there. The wire you're working with runs forward.
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« Last post by Dr_Snooz on September 30, 2023, 08:27:28 PM »
The drive to break in the ring gear and pinion was real nice. It didn't get too hot. The clunk into gear was hardly noticeable. The brakes grabbed well, didn't squeal and felt great, though I ought to get a new prop valve. There weren't drips or leaks, which might be a first for me, lol. The diff is dead silent at low speed. There's no growl or anything, and the quiet howl between 55-60 that was there with the old axle... is still there. I don't know why. All in all, it seems to be a successful build. Here it is, as it sits in the drive right now.  I can't wait to drive to the beach now!
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