Vortec 5.3 install on my 84 C10

[Captkaos]

What are you referencing when you say C9,  C1:B11 the ECM connector or the fuseblock on the Underhood C2
On the C2 underhood connector, C1 is not used and B11 isn't used and C9 isn't used

On the Blue C1 connector you just need Keyed power in start and run going to pins 19 and 75, and pins 20 and 57 should have constant hot.
On the Green C2 connector you need pin 9 to have it go to the fuel pump relay..

3rd pic down on this post is it before I loomed it...
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,12120.msg203051.html#msg203051

the last picture in this post is my starter wiring, all of it came out of the factory harness:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,12120.msg205648.html#msg205648

[Skyshadow]

Awesome, I'll try it out guys. Thanks.
CaptKaos, you're like my dang C10 Sensei lol

[Skyshadow]

I'm not sure what you're referencing when you say pins 19, 75 and so on. I'm going off this set up right now http://lt1swap.com/underhoodfuseblock.htm

[Captkaos]

the numbers go to the pins in the Blue C1 ECM connector.

http://lt1swap.com/99-02_vortec_pcm.htm

[frotosride]

Keeping up with the thread because just like all the other swaps theres a lot of helpful info compiled in one spot and you never know what problem you ae going to run into...keep it up man. The more frustration when doing it the better it will feel when you are done.

[Chappo]

The LT headers will clear on drivers side but, you will need to trim some of the frame on the passenger and cut about 2 inches from outlets when you run your exhaust, because they point weird you will see what I mean when you go to run your exhaust.

[Skyshadow]

I actually heated and bent both sides to point straight back with the frame. I didn't have to do any trimming on the frame or headers. I will say that on the river side, the header tubes are hard up again the A arm.

[Skyshadow]

SHE'S ALIVE!! This is a video by the way

[Captkaos]

Nice, it is alway a good day when they make sound.

[frotosride]

+2 definitely a good day!! Keep her coming.. next thing you know it's off to paint jail!!

[Irish_Alley]

sounds nice. but the chain saw? getting ready for zombies

[Skyshadow]

Now that i got it to run, I think I'm going to pull my harness, re-loom it, dump the stock fuse block and put the ecu and such behind the glove box.  I know, bass-ackwards way of going right? I was just looking at the set up i have and it looks like its just asking for failure. I want to clean everything up for the long haul.

The chainsaw was kind of a running joke when i took the video, said it was essential in the starting of the truck. lol 

So i have been reading up on the "stand alone" wiring set ups, and i have a question. Can i get signals for engine temps and oil pressure from the ecu pinouts? I saw that you can get a speed and rpm signal. I am definitely going to try to wire in a cruise control unit off pin 50. 

I'm also still having a little trouble understanding how to properly marry the original wiring of the truck to the harness so that electricity is distributed properly. I've been combing through CptKaos' thread over the 6.1 build to try to understand it.

[Captkaos]

You have to have an ALDL interface to get the signals out, but they are being set.  The Dakota setup I have has a module that you can hook up and have the ECM sent everything directly to it.

Not sure what you are trying to marry, what specifically are you wanting to know?

[Skyshadow]

Wanting to run Defi gauges all around. Drop the stock dash completely, build new shell out of sheet metal with a simple set up. Defi oil, temp and rpm. Wanting to run a GPS speedo module so wheel and gear changes will not insite reprogramming. Curious if the ecu sends out signals for oil pressure and motor temp that i can connect directly to gauges. or do i need a middle point like the Dakota system?

[Captkaos]

Depending on the ECU it can send Speed, Tachometer, Engine Temp, Intake Air Temp, Transmission Temp, Ambient Air Temp, Gear Position.