1985 GMC K10 build

[1967KaiserM715]

Takes a lot of time and patience. Looks really good so far!

Thanks, you and your daughter are doing great work too. Ill post up an update later. Been doing some engine work, painting a little bit here and there. I am hoping to have the cab done with all patches finished so I can blast and paint the bottom this weekend. I got my engine build going on at dieselplace.com, but I'll make sure to post some pics here too

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[1967KaiserM715]

some pics

small patch to passenger seat hump


patch to floor almost all welded-needed more wire, so just have to finish up the inner side


my little paint stand


but I have to strip and redo all of those pieces. reason being, I was using a difference paint gun, one where I need to thin the Zero-Rust, well, I managed to lay it down too heavy, and because of the nature of the product, it will literally take years to cure right-even with heat applied. it will just be faster to re-strip and paint again-this time taking much longer times between coats and much lighter coats

here is what a light drag of my knife does, pretty much like what happens to normal paint at the tacky stage, but with a hard outer layer




I am right to the metal in those pics, I could leave fingernail prints in it after 2 days(sprayed Saturday morning)

[Captain Swampy]

I don't know anything about that product. Is it supposed to get hard? Some of those products stay flexible.

[1967KaiserM715]

yeah supposed to get hard, it is a really high solids paint(like 54% or something) and what happens is when one either sprays too thick, or thins too much(I probably did a little of both) is it makes an impermeable layer, that doesn't allow the paint to cure and traps whatever thinner is used underneath. now it will eventually cure, but not for a really long time(some people say as long as six months. it is also really perceptible to lifting when top-coating(within 2-3 hours) with an acetone thinned paint.

i don't think perceptible is the right word...

[Jason S]

susceptible

[1967KaiserM715]

susceptible

Thank you. I could not think of it- long day of work


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[VileZambonie]

Are you sure it doesn't require a hardener? I would avoid using that product

[1967KaiserM715]

Are you sure it doesn't require a hardener? I would avoid using that product

No hardener, it is really a good product-It was just user error and using new tools. I normally spray with a pressure pot gun, but I didn't want to pull that out for the little bit of spraying I needed to do. And I keep thinking about it-I think I screwed up with the mixture control on the gun I was using-allowing me to spray heavier then I should have.

This is the first time it has happened to me- I used it my VW beetle chassis fine, this frame-my dad uses it at work all the time- and he agrees, that I put it on a little too heavy-probably because I wasn't use too the gun and how it flows with thinner

[1967KaiserM715]

Not much done
New Poly motor mounts-used Energy Suspension 1152 big block mounts(much more material for the heavier 6.5 then the small block mounts)


a new trans mount will be ordered after Christmas-or really after I re strip and repaint the cross-member

[1967KaiserM715]

windshield out-


and more rust


drain holes were fine though(I had checked before buying truck-I know what happens when they get plugged) PO used a lot of sealant on both sides of gasket


tore out rest of wiring harness. cold weather is finally closing in-late, but not too early for me(yet-miss the snowmobiling)

[1967KaiserM715]

not much done, rear cross-member in, trans cross-member ready to go in(need more hardware)

used 3/8" bolts in a few of the holes for the rear member(bolts fit snug), but had to ream out a majority for 7/16" bolts. which of course used up the ones I had reserved for the trans member, Oh well.



been working a little on the engine, documenting that better at Dieselplace.com. I'll get some pics of that up as I get the exhaust and intake back on.

[Captain Swampy]

Looks good! Sure sucks about the cab rust though.

[1967KaiserM715]

yeah, more rust then I thought, but at least going through it now will be better then finding it later

transmission cross-member in, energy suspension mount ordered and on its way


some more patch work, I had to cut out all the rust, and because the replacement panels weren't big enough I had to fill it in.

this is the rear of the door jam, rear of the seat hump


and this is center hump small section that was left uncovered, for same reason-had to get all of cancer out.

[1967KaiserM715]

small update; been doing a little of everything, some work to engine, some to cab.

patch for rear window, didn't finish nor take a pic of the front patch yet,





my horn button had a broken emblem, so I popped the one out of my parts truck, course it separated(plus I was surprised it wasn't all plastic like mine)
but gave it new paint, letting paint dry, going to sand it down for the metal boss around the letters and outer edge, then glue it tomorrow





I have also modded the dash for a Boost gauge,


I also have an EGT gauge, that will go under the boost, next to the light switch

and a pic of the engine...guess I don't have a recent one, but this should do for now


also mocking up an exhaust, not going to completely weld until it is in the truck, to double check front driveshaft clearance, but that stand gives me better room, plus I don't need to worry about weld splatter getting on the frame

[1967KaiserM715]

well that was a failed attempt at fixing that badge, the glue caused the paint to peel, lift and bleed. luckily, it wasn't fully cured yet, and I was able to pull it apart and will retry.





the paint was definitely dry, and wasn't lifting before, I tested by scraping my fingernail along the edge, I'll try and find the bottle, but it was some 3-m clear glue, I've used it before when building models; for clear plastic, never really noticed it did this, but then again, never did plastic to metal, nor did I ever have to worry about two different colors.