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Mike81K10
Today at 04:22:12 PM by Mike81K10
Views: 4 | Comments: 0

Would the OEM mechanical fuel pump work or would I need to het a HP Fuel Pump? I noticed the aftermarket fuel pumps do not come with a return line. Is the return line really needed? I would prefer to keep the mechanical, yet have thought about an inline electric pump. Any recommendations would be great.

I also would like to know if anyone has used a fuel shutoff valve solenoid 12VDC. I have noticed they are powered in the open position and no power in the closed position. I would like to put one in my system to enable me to shut of the fuel supply for security purposes. Any solenoid valve recommendations?

Perhaps we should have a topic for security options on our trucks.
philo_beddoe
Today at 04:08:42 PM by philo_beddoe
Views: 3 | Comments: 0

Well, I know what is hitting it, had lots of bags of soil, mulch, that sort of thing in the bed, on way home from wmart, when hitting a drop in the road, or bump, I could hear the scrape. Why is this hitting, can I cut a space in this stupid rivited on box? And why is it rivited, and not simple bolts?

 
Wrought Ire
April 17, 2024, 08:22:00 PM by Wrought Ire
Views: 55 | Comments: 3

Howdy guys, I have the STRANGEST problem going on with my '87 305 tbi not kicking on when I need to start it. Everything on it is fines. It's a pretty clean truck but while I was gone for a couple years in MT it apparently stopped running suddenly. Replaced fuel pump, replaced, fuses, replaced relay, replaced ignition module, replaced lines and hoses. Heres where things get weird.

When I key on theres no fuel pump prime, to start it cranks but again no pump, if I drip gas from a bottle it fires right up and runds until I stop giving it gas. Whe. The truck shuts OFF the fuel pump kicks on like its suppose to to reprise the system. So it works! Better yet when. I connect the test wire from the relay to the battery I csn manually kick on the fuel pump and it sounds lovely! Problem even with the test wire hooked to force the pump to run it won't start, it won't even pump fuel out of the injectors like it's not getting told to do so or something. Idk how these TBI systems work I just know it's an absolute nightmare that doesn't make any sense.

So why would it work every time besides when key on and run, and why when it's forced to run manually would the TBI not inject fuel?

I have NEVER needed to take a vehicle to another mechanic bc i couldnt figure it out and I'm so close to taking a big risk by paying someone else to run around it so annnny help would be greatly appreciated
8d9SquareCrew
April 16, 2024, 12:03:06 AM by 8d9SquareCrew
Views: 100 | Comments: 4

I recently had a local shop do a tune-up. They replaced the distributor while they were there. Now it will crank and crank and only starts the moment key is turned to run position. It's like no spark while cranking. It seems I should be able to unplug the connector at the distributor and test for cranking voltage, and run voltage. But I don't know which plugs are supposed to have 12 volts. It always started very quickly before this. Thanks in advance for any light anyone can shed on this.
April 12, 2024, 05:20:21 AM by louder50 | Views: 133 | Comments: 4

I bought an 86 1/2 ton K10 with no drivetrain other than the front and rear 3.43 axles. It came originally with a v6 and 4 speed manual trans. I have a rebuilt 350 to install but I don't know what to do about a trans and transfer case. I'd like to be able to drive it on the freeway and am thinking a 700r4 would be good. I'm not off roading it just a year round driver in Michigan. If I put a 4 speed manual back in it I don't think it would be good on the freeway but am I wrong? What would I need for 700r4 swap?
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