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I don't believe your tac readings. Nevertheless unhook the EGR hose, see if it makes any difference. Also check for vacuum leaks at the TBI base gasket.
The torque converter clutch is easy. Just take it out and drive it. At highway cruise lightly depress the brake pedal, but not enough to engage the brakes. You should feel the TCC disengage and RPM jump slightly higher. Remove your foot from the brake pedal and RPM should drop as the TCC reengages.You ought to verify fuel pressure too as one of your early diagnostic steps. High pressure will cause it to run rich.
Quote from: VileZambonie on January 15, 2017, 12:44:38 PMI don't believe your tac readings. Nevertheless unhook the EGR hose, see if it makes any difference. Also check for vacuum leaks at the TBI base gasket.I unhooked the at EGR, sprayed all around baseplate an vac hoses, no changes in engine RPM. EGR was replaced a yr. ago. Did seem like injectors was a bit heavy on fuel....BD, I need to read into the TCC more.
Quote from: gunrac on January 15, 2017, 03:09:06 PMQuote from: VileZambonie on January 15, 2017, 12:44:38 PMI don't believe your tac readings. Nevertheless unhook the EGR hose, see if it makes any difference. Also check for vacuum leaks at the TBI base gasket.I unhooked the at EGR, sprayed all around baseplate an vac hoses, no changes in engine RPM. EGR was replaced a yr. ago. Did seem like injectors was a bit heavy on fuel....BD, I need to read into the TCC more.It's not the EGR itself that is problematic, it's the solenoid that sticks allowing the valve to open at idle. The result is poor idle stability, loss of power brake assist, harsh exhaust fumes and it's intermittent. You should disconnect it for a few days and drive it to see if any improvement just to rule it out.If you do have a scanner, look at fuel integrator and block learn.
I did unhook vac. line from solenoid to EGR. Didn't undo power source tho. Run around 30 mi. today......guess will see.