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Are you doing away with the key all together or just the start position?
Quote from: hobbz on September 07, 2014, 09:03:08 PMAre you doing away with the key all together or just the start position? This is a question that needs to be answered first. In order to put a push button in, you are going to have to bypass the switch. Which can be done, but you will lose the other functions of the switch like the acc position. It might be worth the effort to find someone to help you with the switch, sometimes we get to a stall point, when a new set of eye's is required to help us past our stall position. You know we as humans can get our brains stuck in 1 mode of thought processes, and it is hard for us to bypass our own thought processes sometimes.
Basically you would just remove the start wire(goes out to starter) from the harness on the column, run it to one side of the push button, and run the other side of the button to a 12 volt supply(should be keyed) which is also on the connector on the column.I just got done doing an entire wiring harness on my truck and have the pinouts up in the garage. I will get them for you later if noone else posts them by then.
I'm talking about the plug on the column near the brake pedal. You want the push button on keyed 12v so you have to have the key in the on position before you can push the button to spin the starter.
Yup
Not much current goes thru the button, all it does is pull in the solenoid on the starter. I think the factory wire is 10 or 12 guage. I would just use the same size. As far as a button, find one you like, as long as it is rated for at least 5 amps or so, it will work. The little starter test buttons you buy at the auto stores have like 14 guage wire and a small button than can't be rated for much.
not to be devil's advocate but by time you rig up the starter button you can tear your column apart and fix it right. when you say the ignition spring wont spring back do you mean the key is stuck or it will move to all placed just not spring back from start?