Instrument Lights and Daytime Running Lights Not Working

[bd]

Sooner than later, you should plan on replacing that missing headlamp switch connector.  They are available from  AutoZone,  NAPA,  O'Reillys,  Classic Parts,  etc.


Pick up a 20-amp, auto-reset circuit breaker (image) and attach a couple of 12" 16-gauge leads with insulated alligator clips.  This will make a handy jumper for testing.  Do you have a test light?

[Double-A]

Ok. The connector I'm talking about has a red and a white wire. I think it's still in the truck is just not attached. And if I remember correctly I tested it's wires for voltage and they were dead (not 100% sure I'll check that as well) and I don't have a test light but I have a multimeter

[bd]

Ok. The connector I'm talking about has a red and a white wire....

What connector are you talking about?  Post a pic.

[Double-A]

I'll post a picture of it tomorrow if i can. But it has a white and red wire in it. And it appears that it once connected towards the front of the switch because the connector is setup to be a perfect fit there.

[bd]

In the meantime, the OE harness connects to the headlamp switch through a single connector, imaged below.

To review:
Red is battery power into the switch for the headlamps, only.
Yellow is switched power out to the headlamp dimmer switch.

Orange is 20-amp fused battery power into the headlamp switch for the running lamps and instrument lamps, only (the redundant orange jumps power to the under dash mounted courtesy lamp).
Brown is power out to the park, tail, and side marker lamps.
Green is rheostat controlled power out to the 4-amp instrument lamps fuse.  At the instrument lamps fuse the wire color changes to gray and continues onto the instrument cluster lights.

White is the headlamp switch controlled ground circuit for the cab dome lamp.

[Double-A]

It looked similar to that but only with 2 connections it wasnt a big connector like that either just enough for 2 connections. Now there is no connector at all and just spade connectors for each wire. If that picture is how its supposed to be then there are a few connection issues. Ill wire the switch like the picture and see if that works.

[bd]

Remember, way back at the beginning...

If 1 click out does not turn on the parking lamps you have it wired incorrectly.  That should turn on the parking lights (all lights except the headlights)

Pick up the proper connector and match the wire colors of the pigtail to the factory harness.  You should be good to go....

[Double-A]

So where would the white wire connect to? I dont see it in the picture you posted or in the picture of the connector at the parts store. I see the other wires in the correct areas just not the white one.

[bd]

Referring to the image, above, the white wire from the cab dome lamp inserts into the open cavity directly below the red wire.

[Double-A]

Ok thanks. Tomorrow I will see if that works and if it does i will go buy the connector.

[Double-A]

Well my switch doesnt look like it would work with the picture you put up. My picture is how the wiring diagram I found showed to wire it.

[bd]

You're basing your switch wiring on bad information!  If those are factory wires in your image and not random colors a PO has spliced in, then only some of the connections are correct.

Download the factory GM 1986 Wiring Manual to your hard drive and go to page 11.  Use the schematic in conjunction with my prior post...

Red is [constant] battery power into the switch for the headlamps, only.
Yellow is switched power out to the headlamp dimmer switch.

Orange is 20-amp-fused, [constant] battery power into the headlamp switch for the running lamps and instrument lamps (the redundant orange jumps power to the under dash mounted courtesy lamp).
Brown is power out to the park, tail, and side marker lamps.
Green is rheostat controlled power out to the 4-amp instrument lamps fuse.  At the instrument lamps fuse the wire color changes to gray and continues onto the instrument cluster lights.

White is the headlamp switch controlled ground circuit for the cab dome lamp.

Notice there are two constant B+ feeds into the headlamp switch:  the 3 mm² (12-gauge) red (Ckt 2) is for the headlamps, only - the 0.8 mm² (18-gauge) orange (Ckt 40) is for the instrument, park, tail and marker lights.

[Double-A]

The only non factory wire is the blue wire which is the headlight wire.

[bd]

Is the blue wire constant hot?

[Double-A]

Yes I was remembering what it did. The blue wire I believe was a quick fix to get the headlights to work and it is hooked straight to the battery.