Squeaky Drum Brakes & A Terrible Mechanic.

[Spool]

Oh... I think I get it. It sits here?

So I just slide that on the Axel before the inner locking nut?




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[Spool]

Alright! It's clean and it's organized and I also learned how not to put this back together.
I'm fighting myself with these upper springs- I think I made the mistake in my order of operations.

So, I'm gonna take it apart tomorrow and try again.

[bd]

Everything appears correct, EXCEPT ... see images. 

The gold-colored spring seat (under the red spring in the yellow circle) is in the wrong position.  The spring seat actually fits under the gold-colored adjuster lever hold-down spring (located in the red circle). 

The long tube of the spring seat protrudes through the adjuster lever and functions as a fulcrum for the lever.  If you study the shape of the seat it should become clear how it assembles with the lever and the spring.

[Spool]

Thanks BD! It was starting to Looking a little congested down there. This explains why I couldn’t get my e brake “bar” and strut spring to sit flush.

I started with and this order
1. the trailing shoe/ebrake/adjustment lever.
2. the leading shoe
3. Star Adjustment and spring.
4. Upper return springs, but this when I ran into trouble.

I’m going to source a different approach on YouTube to see if I can switch the order up a bit.


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[bd]

What trouble?

[MIKE S]

One thing you haven't mentioned is the oil seal on your hub. Normally this seal is changed anytime you remove the hub/drum assembly. With age it will get hard and is a major leak point of gear oil all over the brake system. You need to inspect the sealing surface carefully to make sure there is no damage. When installing hub assembly back on to the axle support the assembly as level as possible so when the seal meets the shoulder on spindle it does not damage it. If it gets damaged and leaks it will soak your brakes with gear oil and ruin them. I assume the last mechanic put a new seal in but did he damage it or install incorrectly. If there is any doubt now is the time. Seals are cheap.

[bd]

On that note, it's not a bad idea to soften the sharp edge of the axle tube shoulder just inward from the tube threads using a compact sharpening stone or some medium grit paper to lessen the chance of cutting the seal during installation of the drum assembly.

[Spool]

Sorry, guys.

Do you have a reference photo of this seal? I’m completely lost on the subject.

Are we speaking of a seal here, where the Axel tube contacts the hub?


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[bd]

The inner seal pictured below.  The seal lip is easily damaged by the axle tube threads and shoulder during removal and installation of the drum.  Great care is required.  No need to be scared, just pay attention.

[Spool]

I'll take closer pictures of it in a bit to share my inspection here.

[Spool]

Just checked them out. I think they look okay- I don't see any knicks or gaps. Do you?
First two are the drivers side. Last two pictures are passenger side.

[Spool]

Progess.

I found that my new nails were a quarter inch shorter than my old ones - so I'm using the old ones.
I also found that my 'trouble' last night is because I was being too gentle with the springs... Got em' fairly easily just now.

I'm finding the adjustment lever is loose, but I think that's what Johnny was saying about remembering to brake in reverse to set the brakes? Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMEIkVI1cAo

I've attached pictures of my work below. I think it's good to go and will work on the other side now. What do you guys think?

[MIKE S]

Regarding the seal. Take a rag and clean the rubber surface. Get off all the old oil and any debris off of the metal also. inspect the seal for anything that doesn't look right. Tears, flat spots, imbedded debris and any other abnormalities. When you are ready to assemble I would put a little bit of fresh clean grease on the rubber surface of the seal for initial lubrication. If you look at your spindle shaft and look past the threads towards the backing plate you will see were the axle gets larger near the backing plate. This is the surface the seal will mate with and were BD says you will need to make sure it does not have a sharp edge. Also if you look at that surface were the bearing seats against, I can see some heavy wear. That is an indication that the bearings were not tight enough at one time in your trucks life. Not a big deal but that will make the edge sharp which will cut the seal

[Spool]

Thanks Mike.

Guys, what is the trick to get this ebrake spring cable on the lever? I cannot get the drivers side for the life of me.


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[bd]

See images.

Usually, the cable is attached to the lever BEFORE the shoes are mounted on the backing plates.  The easy way is to use the special pliers designed specifically for the purpose of compressing the cable spring.  It can be a tiger to reattach the cable.