Troubling engaging when cold.

[Spool]

Hey Guys,

73 C20 here.
I’ve been away from the forum and my truck since Xmas, but wanted to ask if anyone had any insight on this...

My truck suddenly started having trouble engaging first gear when cold; not even typically cold winter morning, but just not yet warmed up.

It seems to have gotten worse in about two three weeks time, when I would have to give an excessive amount of gas to pull out of a parking spot and get going.

Any ideas as to what would cause this, and/or thoughts on what to check first?

[bd]

Welcome back.  Check the fluid level in park with the engine running and warm.  Is it bright red or brown?  Does it smell burned?  When were the fluid and filter last serviced?

[JohnnyPopper]

Sounds like my TH350

It would take about 4-5 seconds to engage in first or reverse.

It needed service, I had changed the filter a couple of years ago, so I just used a clear rubber hose and an extractor (reverse model of a grease gun)

It was really dirty oil, not burned but dirty.

Refilled, ran for about 15 mins to cycle out the torque converter, then repeated.

Didn't have to pull the pan, works great now.

[Spool]

Thanks guys.
I was expecting to return home to LA a week after posting this, but Corona has me staying abroad longer than expected.
(Not a terrible thing, quite lovely actually.)

I look forward to getting back to the truck though.

I'll reach back once I return how to the truck.
Thanks again.

[Spool]

It's been a year, but I'm back on the truck.

I started a different post about what to check after a long period of not driving:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=38471.0

I'm gonna take the truck for a small drive this afternoon to see how it feels, but inevitably take it to the shop around the corner.

Does anyone have estimates on what a transmission service may cost? Under $1,000 or completely depends on what's what?

[JohnnyPopper]

If they want to charge 1K I'll come over and only charge $950.00... 

Depending on the shop, I cant see it going over 200.00. Very simple work.

On my K10, I changed the filter and oil, now I use an clear rubber tube that I stick down the filler pipe, and use an oil extractor. Same shape as a grease gun, but has a front metal tube fitting and a reverse plunger for suction. I measure what I extract and then refill when she's empty. About 15 minutes of work.

[Spool]

Haha. Nice.
I'll let you know how it goes.

[Mr Diesel]

It is very easy to drain and refill the transmission. Worst part is the mess.

I have begun adding drain plugs to all my transmission pans, just to make the job less messy. Also makes it real easy to just drain and change the oil if I feel like skipping the filter.

I always use a thin amount of rtv on the pan gasket too, just because I hate any leaks that tend to develop and nag you later.

[Spool]

Thanks, Mr. Diesel. That's a good tip.

Funny- I get the truck ready to drive, drive around a bit and of course first gear is engaging like there wasn't a problem last year.

I just dropped it off at the shop though around the corner- have him look everything over since it's sat for a year just to be safe.

Steering was tight too- maybe power steering fluid. (Making that whining noise on turns.)

[JohnnyPopper]

Low fluid in the steering pump, Your mechanic should catch it.

[Spool]

Update:
Heard back from the mechanic.

To the point of this thread:
-It definitely needs a transmission service. My dipstick read the level was fine, but he's telling me
that the pan is leaking and needs a new gasket + filter.
-He'll replace the transmission mount as well.

To the point of having my truck serviced after a year of sitting idle:
-Gonna check the power steering pump. It's leaking and dripping on my gearbox.
Fingers crossed the gearbox is good, cause I just replaced that last summer.
-Gonna replace the power steering belt too.

-Valve gaskets... (I had a rocker arm job before I left- I already need new gaskets?)

He's gonna do all this for ~800.

He made mention of my sway bar. I knew it needed attention back when I replaced the upper control arm.
He said he could replace the sway bar bushings on both sides bringing the total to ~900.

Lastly, my differential is leaking fluid onto my drum breaks.
I don't know how bad it is, but he scoffed when I asked if we could do it all for less than $1000.
He's gonna call me back with an answer, but made mention that the drum breaks in the back would be about $450 on their own-
If so, I'll hold off on that one.

[JohnnyPopper]

Valve cover gasket 1 year old probably only need to be re-tightened, if at all. Gently torque them so as not to deform.

450 seems fair on the axle seals, there's a lot to getting them out. May as well replace the axle bearings while you have them out, esp if original.

[Spool]

Do you think replacing the axle bearings while he's down there would increase the cost much?

[JohnnyPopper]

I had my diff changed out from a 3.73 to a 3.41:1, dropped my highway RPM by 500.

While in there, I had them redo the bearing, all in 750.00.

[Spool]

The bearings are new to me. I found a video to help me understand them.

What is the purpose of the rear wheel bearings?

And you dropping your highway RPM is also a gas saver too, no?