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Patman
Today at 06:36:21 PM by Patman
Views: 22 | Comments: 1

1985 K10 Longbed

Ive been doing a bit of tinkering and and gotten the truck in Family good shape. Ive recently replaced the Ignition Control Module, shocks, heat riser valve, exhaust manifold gaskets, carb, fuel tank selector valve, power steering pump, water pump, many vacuume hoses, fuel lines, battery and more. To my frustration, Im still having a hard time getting spark to the plugs. Im considering getting an entirely new distributor as the current one was refurbished by someone (not sure who).

That brings me to the point.

Is is better to just bypass the ESC and get just a straight HEI distributor or should I spend the money and get a new ESC distributor?

Ive heard that the motor is less efficient and gets bogged down a bit after bypassing the ESC. Iíve also heard the opposite. You guys have not steered me wrong yet so Iíd like yallís opinion before I make up my mind.

So, to stay stock or to bypass the ESC? Whatíll it be?

Keep in mind that the truck came with a 305 and how has a 350.

Also, Iím in California, so smog equipment is still a requirement for me.

As always, much appreciated!
Today at 10:54:36 AM by augustdiesel | Views: 31 | Comments: 1

Got the compressor, clutch, and drier replaced on my suburban, now have cold air finally. However, seems I have a vacuum leak somewhere as the unit is stuck in the split level system, dumping all my cold air on the floor and only trickling out the dash vents. Any ideas as to which line I need to be looking at to get it back to max setting?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Today at 08:33:20 AM by Sheriff_of_Rock_Ridge | Views: 26 | Comments: 0

The truck is a 305/700r4/3.08 1984 short bed.

Itís getting a new 350 motor and I would like to swap out the axles. 

By suggestion from some people on this site I would like to ďwake upĒ the truck with a 3.73 rear end.  Itís a daily driver for a construction job that needs Offroad capabilities.  The gentleman was saying with the overdrive that the 3.73 would still be a good gear on the highway. 

My questions are
 1) if Iím going to scout the junk yard or Craigslist what should I look for? For example there is a 2002 Tahoe with the 3.73 that I can pull myself for $200.  Should I only go after something from 73-86?  Does it have to come off a Chevy?

2). Do I just need to re gear the front?  The front gears have to match the rear correct?

3.). Can i re gear the rear I have?  I assume it would be cheaper to find a used one.

Thank you for the help. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
bake315
August 19, 2018, 03:35:06 PM by bake315
Views: 69 | Comments: 4

Hi guys,

I was under my R30 (sigline below) hunting leaks last night, and when I pulled the dust cover underneath, I noticed what appeared to be half of the bolts missing.  It seemed like there should have been six, but there were only three.  Those three were all properly tight, and were in every other hole.  So thinking that someone lost three and just decided to skate by on the remaining three, I picked up some more today.

So when I went to install them, I discovered that none of the holes lined up.  Not by a longshot.  What am I seeing here?  Did someone install the wrong flex plate?

Thanks as usual, for any insight you are able to offer!
jacsin
August 19, 2018, 01:28:00 AM by jacsin
Views: 50 | Comments: 0

hey new to this group. Im in the process of bringing my new 85 C10 back to life. got it from my father in-law. its a New Mexico truck. super clean. Im in the middle of doing a ls swap, using 06 5.3 and 4l60e trans. freshened up the heads, new timing chain, oil and water pump. along with all new sensors. so all the factory gauges will work. got a 91 cluster for it so that fixs the speedo problem. didnt plan on tearing it down as far as I did but one thing lead to the other and well, here we are. lol going with the CPP upper and lower tubular control arms, sway bar and front shocks. hoping to get the front end back on it this week.
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