Lifter noise with lunati voodoo cam

[travisr1988]

OK, so my truck has been driven about 4000 miles since the new engine was put in and no matter how many times the rockers are adjusted it just doesn't seem to quiet down. Followed the GM recommended procedure and the clacking went away for a few miles and then came back. Seems to be worst at around 2000rpm.  Each time I adjust them they seem to be lose when I pull the covers off, but the studs don't appear to have moved and the nuts appear to have stayed in place as well, as small as my cam is (213/219@.050_256/262 adv._.454/.468 lift ) I wouldn't expect the studs or nuts to move. I am using GM factory vortec heads and rockers, clearances were checked, I read a few things on other forums about lifters collapsing causing this issue, and some people have solved it with new GM lifters, we know it isn't an adjustment issue as the adjustment has been verified several times, and the clattering is not constant. Sometimes it's there sometimes it's not. The engine runs great even with the bad carb, pulls hard from idle(if the carb doesn't bog) to 5200rpm (haven't had it higher), spins the tires on demand, overall I'm very happy with the cam, but the lifter noise is driving me nuts. Build is below:

350 bored .030 over 010 block
Standard replacment crankshaft
Standard rods
Standard rebuilders flat top 4 vakve relief pistons
Estimated compression ratio 9.8:1
Lunati voodoo 60101 cam and lifters. (213/219 @.050  256/262 advertised  .454/.468 lift  112lsa)
Vortec 062 casting GM remanufactured heads (remanufactured was given cam specs, clearances verified after install)
Edelbrock performer vortec intake
Quadrajet (also looking for replacement recommendation...qjet is awesome when it works right, wanting to do fuel injection but on a very tight budget)
Used headers supposedly from a 70s Chevy truck, sit very close to driver control arm and dump beautifully above the bottom of the frame like the camaro headers in a recent post. (Need new headers too, these have seen better days).
Factory HEI distributor and msd Street fire wires and acdelco spark plugs

Anyone have experience with this issue and how to solve it?

[VileZambonie]

What method did you use to adjust your valves? Have you changed the oil since the break in?

[travisr1988]

I used the tdc on cylinder 1 adjust closed valves, rotate to tdc on cylinder 6 adjust closed valves (compression cycle on 1 and 6 of course, can't recall exactly which cylinders are adjusted at each stage, had a GM print out I followed). It has had an oil change since break in, it is currently running 10w40 which didn't make any difference from 5w30.

[VileZambonie]

Hmm... Are you saying you adjusted the valves in the order of the firing order? If so you would not go from #1 to #6 or did you use the method outlined in the factory service manual? Not that I doubt what you did was correct but just to be certain, post the exact method you used.

[travisr1988]

It was outlined in the service manual. It said to find tdc on cylinder 1 on compression cycle then adjust specific valves (I don't remember which ones specifically and don't have the book with me) then rotate to tdc compression on cylinder 6 and adjust remaining valves.

Lunati finally called back and didn't care about the valve train at all, basically just said "does it run good", then the cam is fine, it's the valve guides, I told him I had vortec heads and factory springs, rockers and pushrods and he cut me off and said "I don't care, makes no difference, it's guides." Which was odd because from what I've been told they would want the whole setup so they can tell you what to check and get a sale out of it if it's something like rockers or springs or pushrods. Since he said none of that matters I guess the stock springs are OK for that cam and the pushrods are the correct length.

[VileZambonie]

Well to be honest with you, the factory springs are going to be borderline on coil bind with that cam or at the very least, close to pulverizing the valve seals unless the guides have been cut down. Nevertheless, that sounds like poor customer service to me instantly blaming the valve guides. Following the factory procedure is okay with a stock cam but once you start getting into different grinds that procedure will not be as accurate. Essentially you want to find the base circle of the cam and you can do this by manually rotating the crank going by feel or by using a dial indicator if you want to get precise. Once you are on the base circle of the cam, you will want to perform the adjustment on that valve for that cylinder and move on down the line. I would go through it carefully one at a time, rotate it around and recheck it.

[travisr1988]

Thank you vile. I'll see if I can do that tonight, I'll look at the guides and seals also, I assume if they're worn it'll be obvious. What irritates me about the lunati tech was he didn't ask nor Carr what heads I'm running, he cut me off before I had a chance to say they were vortec. It was literally "the heads are---" "not to be rude, but I don't care, heads don't matter to me, my cam is good, therefore it's valve guides."

In contrast, you are not paid to do this, you are here trying to help me solve my issue with nothing to gain. He could have gotten a sale on valvesprings easily.

But anyways I was worried the springs would cause issues which is why I asked the company to double check clearances with my cam specs prior to sending them to me, perhaps I should have spent the extra money and bought gmpp heads. I'll check everything for wear tonight and post my results. Your help is very much appreciated.

[VileZambonie]

Keep us updated!

[travisr1988]

OK, so I didn't have much time tonight so all I did was check the rockers and they were all tight except 6 and 8 intake. I checked as best I could for valve seal to retainer clearance and any damage, I didn't see any damage and with the valves open fully the retainer to seal clearance looks to be more than enough. My dad said he would show me how to properly check all that this weekend if we get the chance after fixing the fence. I doubt the guides are the issue as these heads were checked twice and there is no oil being burnt as expected. While I had the valve covers off I tried the running method to narrow down which rockers were noisy and that's how I found 6 & 8 intakes are noisier, adjusted all on that bank with it running and it's quieter now, not as quiet as it should be, but quieter. I do have gmpp lifters on order because we intend on checking the lifters and want to change them if there is a problem and the truck cannot be down long at all. BTW, turning the motor by hand is a pita with a clutch fan in the way.

[ehjorten]

If you do not have the stock cam, then you cannot use the service manual adjust half of the valves at #1 TDC and adjust the other half at #6 TDC!  The cam profile is different and it won't work!  This is likely one of your main problems.

Your best bet is to adjust each cylinder by going through the firing order:  #1 TDC - Adjust #1 Valves...rotate 90°...Adjust #8 Valves...repeat 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2.

[DustyRusty]

Can't help you on the valve train issue.

But, regarding your desire to possibly go to fuel injection in the future, consider this:  The latest Jeg's catalog has a FiTech throttle body fi system at less than $1000.  It is self tuning and has many of the bells and whistles that the more expensive systems have.  I doubt you could build a Mega Squirt system for much less.  Link:  http://www.jegs.com/i/FITech-Fuel-Injection/546/30002/10002/-1

Holley's Sniper system at just over $1000:  http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/550-510/10002/-1