yes, another lift question

[CarlBengston]

Alright, I'm sure that you're all probably tired of answering questions about lift kits but I haven't found any threads that answered my questions. I have a 1983 k10 long bed Cheyenne. I'm torn between a 4" or 6" lift. I'd like the 6 but it seems like there's a lot more work that goes into it. Like a transfer case drop? How do you lower a t case but not a tranny? And what exactly is required on a front drives haft to prevent binding? Thanks on advance.

[Irish_Alley]

you dont need to do anything for the 6" drop. you might want to get a longer driveshaft made for the front, but besides that you dont have to do anything. (brake lines) what size tires do you want and what are your plans for the truck?

[CarlBengston]

35's or 36's. Gonna be a DD and a play toy. How do you go about having a linger front made? I've had rears made but never fronts.

[Edemich]

Same place you had the rears made.  Driveshaft shop can lengthen and freshen it up for you no problem.  Great time for new ujoints. 

I have always wondered about the transfer case drop as well since its bolted to the back of the transmission.  Clocking the transfer case down I can see.

[Greybeard]

Clocking works or by adding spacers to the cross members. That requires drilling new holes on the drivers side though (I am assuming the 83 is the same as earlier version cross members). With my six inch lift I just dropped the cross member an inch and had no problems. My truck never articulated much though. The caveat here is this was on a shortbox, long trucks have no issues in the rear as was stated by Irish. Both length trucks have the same front issues depending on which t-case is used. Lowering the cross member will not negatively effect the rear and the resulting increase in joint angle for the front transfer end joint will not amount to enough to worry about. I did not have to lengthen my front shaft myself but the six inch lift replaced a four inch lift that was on the truck when I bought it.   

[Irish_Alley]

When I put the proper front shaft in my front I found a front shaft out of an automatic (which is longer then the standard I have) and cut it down and welded it. So depending on your transmission you might luck out and find another out of a longer transmission. But its nothing that required right away. I've seen the stock size last a good bit of time before the splines strip

[Scott M]

I would like to add to this.  I have a 78 with a 6in suspension i run tires that measure around a 36" I dd install a transfer case drop on the truck.  Now my problem i believe is i dont have the stock shaft to begin with.  I believe that all models according to   truck have the double cardone joint at the transfer case side.  I would like to confirm that this is correct....because my shaft is the flange end to ujoint then straight out to the axle with a slip yoke right before the axle and then fixed yoke on the axle. 

I have caught so much heck with this front shaft that i believe is not the correct one that i have cut the crossmember where the shaft tube was hitting and i grinded down around the knuckles for the ujoint so much and when when deaccelerating at any speed there is a chatter from it still hitting itself.

My next move is remove the ujoint and further grind on the knuckle or whatever you want to call it and if that doesnt fix the problem im going to try finding a junt yard shaft for the front using   year guide that would fit and see what happens...i actually been contacting yards all this week and have been debating what to do cause its almost embarrassing the sound it makes.  when i put the lift on the truck wouldnt even move cause the shaft at the joints were in such a bind.

do yall think that double cardone will really help this angle

my advice in this situation is that the lift will tell you what all you should do for proper fitment.  I dont think its all that much harder and more things to do than putting a 4 on.  most people say transfercase drop is optional I went ahead and did it because it was only like 50 bucks more however like people say it could be made at home with square tubing or anything really.  I did buy extended front brakelines and i have no idea how to fix my rear emergency brake cable i cut it is too short and im still trying to figure out what to do.

Good luck in picking your lift!

[Irish_Alley]

the only time i seen a front driveshaft without the Cardone joint was when a buddy (who also had a manual) made a shaft out of a automatic "fit". he removed the joint and did some grinding

[CarlBengston]

Alright, thanks for the input. I'm looking at a super lift 6" and it says a t case drop was required.

[Irish_Alley]

im telling you cause im not trying to sell you anything the drop isnt required. this is just like the whole argument with cross over steering. yes its better to have but not required or extended brake lines you dont have to cause you can just take the brake lines out of the brackets of get drop brackets. buts its safer just to get the extended lines vs removing the stock bracket and letting it just hang

[ehjorten]

The transfer case drop just rotates the engine, transmission and transfer case down by rotating it around the front engine mounts.  It helps decrease the u-joint working angles on the rear driveshaft, but at the expense of u-joint working angles on the front driveshaft (while is makes the rear driveshaft angles slightly better, it makes the front driveshaft angles worse)!

My V3500 has 8" of lift and no transfer case 'drop'.  It works just fine!  I do have a 2-piece driveshaft and it is fairly long and the center bearing is dropped slightly with a spacer.

On the front CV-joint (double Cardan joint, aka double u-joint) their are travel limit stops that need to be ground down to allow the shaft more working angle.

[Greybeard]

It's true the t-case does not 'need' dropping but it saves money to do so in a short box. But since this thread is about a long box it's a moot point. The front shaft should have a double joint. If it's the early style the best course of action is update the T-case with the flange mount and get a shaft to match. Otherwise the yokes should be of the style that uses a u-bolt instead of the flat strap. No matter what though it needs a double joint of some style.

Also, it's a matter preference I believe concerning where the slip splines are in relation to the axle so my vote is to have them up high and out of the way. I've seen trucks with them at the axle end and besides not looking right I shudder at what happens when a tire kicks a large rock up against it. It does add some weight to the unspung weight of the axle which might add to the rough ride but that was a small price to pay in my book.