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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Rear Drivelines, Drive Axles and Gearing => Topic started by: muleystruck on January 17, 2018, 11:41:11 AM

Title: r&r the rearend
Post by: muleystruck on January 17, 2018, 11:41:11 AM
Hey all, finally got the slave cylinder bled on my 86 Scottsdale. Had to reverse bleed the slave cylinder, and now Ive gotta relearn how to drive it! I still have an issue in the drivetrain as the rearend is causing me problems. The ring and pinion has been changed at some point as its a Richmond setup. Some major slack and vibration that is not readily fixable by me. So, if I wanted to replace the whole assembly what later models will work? I'm hoping for a direct bolt in. 73-87 truck parts are hard to find. Anything from 88 up work in this truck? I'm wanting to put lowering shackles for a 2 inch drop in the rear and was hoping to do all this at one time. Any info is greatly appreciated.  Muley
Title: Re: r&r the rearend
Post by: zieg85 on January 17, 2018, 11:50:00 AM
There are a lot of parts trucks out there and a considerable amount on Craigslist.  You just need to look.
Title: Re: r&r the rearend
Post by: blazer74 on January 17, 2018, 12:13:19 PM
88 and up is not a direct bolt in. Spring perch and shock mounts will be different as well as the u joint could be a different size.
They also tend to be wider also.

The exception would be the blazer or suburban kept the same body style into the early 90s
They will be 10bolt 5 lug axles in 1/2 tons for 2x4 and 6 lug for 4x4s. 3/4 ton suburban rears will bolt in but are 8 luggers.

Blazers are going to be mostly 6 lugs

12 bolt rears were used up to approx 1980 and will fit.

3/4 ton axles 73-87 will direct bolt in with a conversion u joint but will be 8 luggers.

3/4 ton 73-87 rears will be either full float or semi float design.

These axles are older and finding a good one  to just bolt in and go is becoming harder but they are out there.
Title: Re: r&r the rearend
Post by: VileZambonie on January 17, 2018, 05:34:22 PM
Way too many people think you just slap a ring and pinion in and you're good. Lots of setup steps to get a good end result. I would check around and see if anyone around you does rear ends  :o
Title: Re: r&r the rearend
Post by: Stewart G Griffin on January 18, 2018, 12:27:38 PM
Sorry to hijack, but on the subject of R+R rearends, do you feel it's easier to replace the axle bearings on a full-floater rear vs. semi-floater or vice-versa and why?


2) To answer the original question, if you can weld or know someone who can, then any rear from 88 to 2017 could work.  Even, say a B-body rear.