It could have been worse...

[Rattler12]

Don't claim to be an expert but it a appears your ring gear could be a tad closer to the pinion lowering the pattern on the drive side. How many and what thickness shims did you use on each side. You might remove a slightly thicker shim from the off side and swap it with a slightly thinner one from the ring side.....jm2c's

[frotosride]

Don't claim to be an expert but it a appears your ring gear could be a tad closer to the pinion lowering the pattern on the drive side. How many and what thickness shims did you use on each side. You might remove a slightly thicker shim from the off side and swap it with a slightly thinner one from the ring side.....jm2c's

I'm actually .001 farther away than recommended. This set requires .006 backlash so I don't think I'm going to set the ring gear closer

[frotosride]

A few more rotations to give the pattern a better foot print.

[hatzie]

The pinion may not be close enough to the ring by a very small amount.  The drive pattern is a little high and coast is a little low.

[frotosride]

The pinion may not be close enough to the ring by a very small amount.  The drive pattern is a little high and coast is a little low.

Thanks, I noticed the same things. I attempted to pull the carrier out again but as expected it won't budge!! So I made something to remedy the situation.

[frotosride]

I haven't tried it yet because I just assembled it last night. I still have to make pins and get shorter bolts. A little tip, if you use a depth micrometer to ring the right bolt length, remember that the holes aren't threaded all the way.

[hatzie]

I had to use one of those on the Dana 44 in my K20. 
Compared to the ease of removing, installing, and setting up a 14-bolt full floater the rest seem like a poor design...  probably fairly easy to manufacture.  That's the main consideration not the amount of labor involved in fixing it long after the warranty has expired. 
If it's difficult or expensive to repair, or better yet both, then Joe Consumer might buy a new or recent vehicle from their dealership network rather than fix it.

[frotosride]

I had to use one of those on the Dana 44 in my K20. 
Compared to the ease of removing, installing, and setting up a 14-bolt full floater the rest seem like a poor design...  probably fairly easy to manufacture.  That's the main consideration not the amount of labor involved in fixing it long after the warranty has expired. 
If it's difficult or expensive to repair, or better yet both, then Joe Consumer might buy a new or recent vehicle from their dealership network rather than fix it.

Oh yeah I fully believe that!! I mean look at all these newer vehicles and try to see the asphalt while looking under the hood...make it confusing and ridiculously cluttered and that will get em to buy a new one for sure... not this guy!

[frotosride]

The pinion may not be close enough to the ring by a very small amount.  The drive pattern is a little high and coast is a little low.

Well the case spreader worked like a champ! And my pinion depth was .014 to shallow.  So now I gotta find someone to press the new bearing off and take out some shim!   Dang I need a press!

[frotosride]

OK, so I finally found the time to get the rear end set up. I set my pinion and lash right on the money this time by the grace of God! Tooth pattern look good and the axle is hanging. I have the axle shafts in but I haven't sealed it all up yet BC I don't want to put the new diff cover on until the last minute to make sure I don't find any of those dreaded.spare parts. I'm currently working on the brakes. Purchased new drums and wheel cylinders from summit and of course I painted them blue like the fronts. A few bends in new hard likes, drum brakes, and transfer case rear out put seal and well will be in business. I have pic and will post updates as soon as I get a chance.

[roundhouse]

I had to use one of those on the Dana 44 in my K20. 
Compared to the ease of removing, installing, and setting up a 14-bolt full floater the rest seem like a poor design...  probably fairly easy to manufacture.  That's the main consideration not the amount of labor involved in fixing it long after the warranty has expired. 
If it's difficult or expensive to repair, or better yet both, then Joe Consumer might buy a new or recent vehicle from their dealership network rather than fix it.

Oh yeah I fully believe that!! I mean look at all these newer vehicles and try to see the asphalt while looking under the hood...make it confusing and ridiculously cluttered and that will get em to buy a new one for sure... not this guy!

New vehicles are designed to be slapped together in the fastest possible time by the expensive union labor

Maintenance and repair are of no concern to the manufacturer

Building a vehicle where the skid plate has to be removed to access the oil filter (which is usually mounted sideways so ALL the oil leaks all over the vehicle and ground )is moronic.  But every new pickup is like that 

Making the defroster flap door years from plastic and Saving 1/3 of a Penny is more important than making them from metal so they will last


I'm convinced that's why ford stopped making the 9 inch axle

They were too sturdy and too easy to rebuild
And took an extra three minutes To assemble

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[frotosride]

update.... I have several thousand miles on the new Auburn Ected locker and 3.73 gears.... Couldn't be happier. The clutches do make a small amount of noise but the limited slip is so good I haven't even hooked up the power switch for the electronic locker. I would definitely recommend this to anyone that needs something that isn't hardcore because of the manufactures axle and tire size combinations being maxed at 35's on a 10bolt.