Author Topic: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"  (Read 20581 times)

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #60 on: July 14, 2020, 05:48:25 PM »
Modern cars do not use SLA type I suspension systems with parallelogram steering, so that comparison isn't exactly a good one. Excessive caster in this design will cause wheel shimmy at high speeds and although spec is around 2° you can achieve more than spec when aligning. Either way, I would never go past 5° on these trucks. As far as the CV suspension, stomp on the brakes or accelerate and watch the amount of fore and aft movement, it's astonishing that they let them leave the factory this way. The aftermarket replacement parts are no better so again, I wouldn't if it were mine. Tubular arms aren't too bad, You can get a set for around $450
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74 GMC, 75 K5, 84 GMC, 85 K20, 86 k20, 79 K10

Offline Thompson335

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #61 on: July 15, 2020, 05:16:14 PM »
I run about 5 degrees on mine currently without issue, but to get the modern style wheels I like I have to run 1.75 adapters. Not the end of the world but I would like to go without and get some of my turning radius back. By the time I buy a steering box and control arms I am about $1k in. CV cost Would only be any maint parts I need, and will have a Rack and much more suspension travel then my lowered front end. I think I could probably fix some of that flex if I made some Delrin bushings for it. Other then the flex do you see any issues?

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #62 on: July 16, 2020, 05:44:51 AM »
I'm sure you'll find them along the way  :D Good luck
,                           ___ 
                         /  _ _ _\_
              ⌠ŻŻŻŻŻ'   [☼===☼]
              `()_);-;()_)--o--)_)

74 GMC, 75 K5, 84 GMC, 85 K20, 86 k20, 79 K10

Offline Thompson335

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #63 on: September 02, 2020, 08:04:32 AM »
moving forward with the crown vic swap. So far I have positioned on frame and made the front mount. looks like it will fit well.

Offline JohnnyPopper

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #64 on: September 02, 2020, 12:43:49 PM »
Clever, are those aftermarket adapters, or your design?
1957 Apache 3100 235 Inline 6, 3 on the tree
1973 C-20, 3+3 454 4BBL TH400  Water Injection
1978 K-10, 350 4BBL TH350 NP203 M.M. Part time Kit/Hubs
1980 C-10 under construction

Offline Thompson335

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #65 on: September 02, 2020, 01:01:38 PM »
This is a low budget hot rod built in the garage. Mostly old parts and rust! If I can't get it at the junk yard I make it for the most part. It is the main reason I went with the crown vic. The front end was wore out. It would take $3K to rebuild the GM steering, lower it 5 inches, and make it come anywhere close to the kind of geometry already built into the CV.  I only have $100 into the CV so far.

Offline JohnnyPopper

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #66 on: September 03, 2020, 12:38:03 PM »
Good job man!

I'm from the old school too, if you don't have it, can't find it, can afford it, MAKE IT!

Learned that from my Auto shop teacher in '77.

He told of making main bearings for a 4 cylinder Ford by pouring molten babbit into the block with the crank positioned perfectly.

Only problem was that the crank was now frozen in the block.

Cure: drop block into the truck, load rocks, tires and kids if available into the bed of the truck. Put truck into 2nd gear, drag around the yard with mules until the crank freed up. Trim 'new' bearings, finish rebuild.

I never challenged the story, but it sounded feasible. 
1957 Apache 3100 235 Inline 6, 3 on the tree
1973 C-20, 3+3 454 4BBL TH400  Water Injection
1978 K-10, 350 4BBL TH350 NP203 M.M. Part time Kit/Hubs
1980 C-10 under construction

Offline Thompson335

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #67 on: September 15, 2020, 01:18:39 PM »
made some motor mounts to go with the crown vic cross member.

Offline Thompson335

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #68 on: September 30, 2020, 02:05:53 PM »
getting very close to getting back on the road again.

Offline Rustybucket73

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #69 on: December 30, 2020, 02:13:07 PM »
@Thompson335 Thanks for posting pictures of the adapter brackets! Can't wait to see how you connect the steering column to the rack.

Offline frotosride

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #70 on: January 06, 2021, 08:39:11 PM »
Picked it up at the junkyard from a SUV

Like the build.. keep it coming!
What did you use for a backing plate for the hydroboost. I have one from a suburban/tahoe/yukon, can't remember which. Not sure it I want to put it in the V10 or K5 blazer.
"Beat it like a red-headed ford"
1987 v10 Silverado(LQ4), 87 R10,83 K20, 83 cucv 6.2 Detroit
2006 Boulevard M109R 109 cid,2019 M109R BOSS
2009 Jeep XK, (future LS Swap)
GSXR 750 engine awaiting go kart

Offline Thompson335

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #71 on: December 06, 2021, 02:23:49 PM »
Finally getting around to working on the truck again.  here is a current look of the truck

Offline Thompson335

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #72 on: December 06, 2021, 02:30:56 PM »
started some work to raise the stock front inner fender wells. This is my current progress.

Offline Rustybucket73

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #73 on: February 26, 2022, 01:16:20 AM »
Finally getting around to working on the truck again.  here is a current look of the truck

Can you show and explain what parts you used to connect the CV rack to the C10 steering column?

Did you have to modify the frame or exhaust manifold?

Offline Thompson335

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Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"
« Reply #74 on: February 26, 2022, 08:07:37 AM »
un fortunately I can not take a good pic. the first two are what  I am using now and the steering is smooth. the third pic was an initial try that did not work well it had hard spots. you can see the angle up top is to sharp but it gives you a good pic of what you are dealing with. It may have worked with a double joint up top. the lower joint looks like a double joint but is really two joints with a really short D shaft in between.