C2500 Rear axle stud replacement

[84GMCSierra]

Good Morning. I have an 84 GMC Sierra C2500, and I need to replace all 16 studs in the rear axles, due to them being extremely hard to get the lug nuts on and off. Anyways, do I need to remove the shafts to remove and install the new studs? I've seen a couple of different sizes, so not sure which one it is. I have the GQ1 rear axle(standard), and the C6P Heavy Duty Chassis, and the 13" brakes. Also, is there a tool for replacing them? I don't want to damage anything. Thanks and have a good weekend

[bd]

Good morning!

Can you expound on the problem you're experiencing, perhaps post a pic?  Are the studs too short or bent?  Are the threads deeply rusted or otherwise damaged?  Might the solution be as simple as wire brushing or chasing with a proper die and then lubricating the threads?  Have you tried fitting one or two new lug nuts to see whether there is any improvement?

[MIKE S]

My experience with your problem in the past is not the stud if it is not physically damaged. What I have seen is the lug nuts get overly tightened and they collapse on the the tapered cone end. You can try running a tap thru the lug nuts but I think once they have collapsed, they will collapse again. I would try new lug nuts and use a torque wrench on them. 

[zieg85]

If you are using a 4 way that is normal.  The original 9/16 lugs are the made that way, nothing like a car style.  If you don't know the history of the truck someone may have used metric lugs in their place

[Chevygold]

I'd run a hex die nut down the studs first, if that doesn't cure the problem run the nuts down a tap which will complete the job then tighten with a torque wrench to avoid overtightening.
Graham

[ehjorten]

If I was going to use anything on my lug studs...it would be a thread chasing die. Something that doesn't actually "cut" threads. I am not certain on the application, but if there is enough room behind the axle flange for the stud to come out, you can simply hammer them out and then press them in with a combination of a HD c-clamp and a properly sized socket spacer. That is if there is enough room behind the axle drive flange to fit in the new stud.

[Mr Diesel]

If you do replace the studs you will have to remove the axle shafts, remove the lock tab and large nut holding the hub and bearings on, and pull the whole hub/bearings/drum off. It isnt a very hard job but a little messy with the gear oil that will leak out the axle tubes. Dont let the oil get on your brake parts.

With the hub off you can drive the studs out with a heavy mallet and heavy duty punch. Drive the new studs in with the mallet.

Again, not too hard and minimal tools required. Put a new seal in each hub while you are there. When you reinstall the hubs tighten the bearing nut until there is no more play in the bearings and just stop there. No need to get crazy with it.

[Mike81K10]

Many (very) years ago I had new tires installed at a Sams club. They over torqued the lug nuts and broke some studs and the others were damaged as well. They had to replace all my studs and from that day on - they never changed my tires again. However, I think the learned a lesson, as I did as well. Use a torque wrench on your lug nuts and do not used an impact wrench on them when installing the nuts to avoid damage and a big headache.

[84GMCSierra]

Good Morning. Sorry it has taken so long to reply. Anyways, when I take the nuts off or put them on, with a cordless impact, or even a standard 4 way wrench, they are very tight, almost like they are cross threaded. I don't see any signs of that though. I only know I bought the truck after it sat for 5 years, and that it was used as a farm truck I believe prior to that. I am replacing the front rotors as well, as when I step on the brakes, I'm getting a "jerking" motion, and the pads need replacing anyways as well as the brake hoses. I'm also doing rear wheel cylinders(leaking). Mechanically it's pretty good, but I want to replace the important stuff. I will try to post a pic of my axles.

[Shifty]

A little dab of anti-seize on the wheel stud thread works wonders.

[ehjorten]

I don't know personally how these fit, but could it be that you have M14x1.5mm Lug Nuts on 9/16-18 Lug Studs? The metric equivalent of 9/16-18 is M14.3x1.41mm.

The minimum major diameter of a 9/16-18 2A External thread is 14.03 mm and the maximum internal diameter of a M14x1.5 6H nut is 14.406 mm, so it will fit over the 9/16 stud and the pitch is only 0.09 mm different.

[MIKE S]

If that is the case, then I would buy 1 new correct lug nut and try it on the studs to determine if the problem is the stud or the lug nut.

[bd]

I agree with the rest.  Wash a couple of studs with some aerosol solvent then wire brush the threads and wipe dry (stay alert and be mindful of sharp metal slivers).  Inspect the threads for any damage (e.g., tearing, shredding, galling, cross-threading, shearing, etc).  If the threads pass visual inspection, slather the studs with some copper anti-seize and install one or two new correctly sized lug nuts to see if there is any improvement. 

But don't overlook Zieg's comment about the snug fit of lug nuts on that axle.  The slight interference helps prevent the nuts from walking if there is an issue with wheel seating or lug torque.